34: Rodrigo Hanada, Team Brazil One to Watch
Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!
7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury
10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure
13:57 - Living in Australia
16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace
21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America
25:31 - Brazil climber funding
30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil
36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC
39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber
48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid
51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips
56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?
1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?
1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo
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starting to climb very chubby and always being like bigger than the other guys that has always
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like affected me mentally like it's a bit of a struggle.
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A climbing shoe here for us like costs a thousand and three hundred Reals for us and that's
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like the same as the minimum wage here in Brazil.
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It's like I didn't do a one arm pull up before being able to like win nationals or send like
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my first V13 outdoors.
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If you're trying to solve it with strength, you're doing it wrong.
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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.
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I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today Rodrigo Hanada.
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Rodrigo is a boulder and lead climber from Team Brazil.
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He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018 but since then has been a two time
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South American Cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the World Cup circuit.
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In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult,
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how he feels like a weaker climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid and mindset
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tips he uses while competing.
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I hope you enjoy this episode with Rodrigo.
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Real quick, I'm excited to announce my new sponsor helping make this podcast episode
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possible, Mad Rock Climbing.
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I got fitted with their brand new line of high performance shoes, the D2.1s.
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They just came out December 6th but you might notice a few of your favorite gum climbers
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are already wearing them like Oscar Boudrand from Team Canada and also me.
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This is the first time I've gotten to wear their shoes for an extended period of time
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and I'm actually super impressed with the grip of their in-house rubber and of course
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the famous drone heel that everyone says is the cheat code to heel hooking small edges.
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Feel free to message me if you have any questions about the shoes or sizing and you can use
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the discount code NotRealClimber for 10% off your entire Mad Rock order.
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Info will be in the description.
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Back to the show.
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But yeah, how are you doing today?
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Are you just home in Brazil at the moment?
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Yeah, I'm just home.
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Today is a rest day.
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So pretty chill.
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Yeah.
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Where in Brazil are you from?
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São Paulo.
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It's like the biggest city.
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Okay.
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Yeah.
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Unfortunately, I don't know too much about Brazil, but we'll get into that later and
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I'll learn more, which will be good.
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For sure.
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But yeah, let's get right into it.
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How did you get started climbing and competing?
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So yeah, I started climbing about like eight years ago.
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I was pretty lazy in that time.
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Like I would always like stay at home and stuff and some friends are like, oh, let's
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check out this climbing gym.
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And I just went there like without any expectations and I couldn't really get to the top.
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I was like pretty chubby back then and I was like, yeah.
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And I was like, oh, I guess I want to come back and try to make it to the top like in
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just in any boulder.
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And then I came back and that's how I started like just going and going and I got really
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addicted to it and I would go like every day after school.
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Yeah, like when I was 14, I'm 22 now.
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So like eight years.
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Yeah.
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Wow.
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Yeah, that's like pretty recent and I think a lot of people can also relate to that kind
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of story casually at least.
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Did you do other sports before that?
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Because like eight years is pretty fast, especially for like getting onto the World Cup circuit.
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Did you like do other sports growing up?
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Or I guess you said you were chubby, so I don't know.
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Yeah, like when I was young, like way younger, like I used to play rugby.
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I was on a rugby team and I also did like one year of gymnastics right after it.
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But then I had to stop both of them because I had a problem on my knees and the doctor
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said I had to.
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Like an injury?
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Yeah, I still don't know exactly what it was.
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Maybe the doctor was wrong because now my knees like I don't have that problem anymore.
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But he was like, yeah, you have to stop all sports.
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And I've always been like really competitive.
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And so when he said it, it was like pretty devastating for me.
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And I feel like that's when I started like getting chubby and I was just sad and that's
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why I would stay home.
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And I guess when I found climbing, it was like that escape and it brought me back that
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feeling of like competing but it was more like against myself.
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So that's what I really liked about the sport and the support that everyone would give you
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when you were on the wall.
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I feel like that's something pretty great about the climbing community.
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And I would say that something else that really brought me closer to the sport was the fact
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that I've always been into like solving puzzles and problems like maths and stuff like that.
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And I feel like solving each boulder problem is always like something that's pretty intricate
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and always like psychs me up.
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And so like the climbing didn't give you any like knee issues, especially with like bouldering.
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There's a lot of like falling and jumping down.
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I feel like some people get issues with their knees.
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I had some problem like on my, I don't know the name exactly in English.
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But I ruptured my ligament twice like in the last year and a half.
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But it has nothing to do with the injury that I had like eight years ago.
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So it was just, it just happened.
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Geez.
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Okay, I was climbing on that now.
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I still like to be honest, it's still hard to deal with it.
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Like doing some drop knees or very like intensive heel hooks can be scary.
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But I've been working it a lot with my physiotherapist and trying to work like mostly my mental game
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about it because heel hooks have always been a strong point for me.
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And I feel like I've lost that kind of like superpower.
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So I'm trying to like get it back.
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Yeah, that's really hard.
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How did you hurt it?
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The first time was like three weeks, one month before Pan American Games that we're going
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to qualify for the Olympics in 2023.
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So it was like a big bummer for me.
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I was like feeling really good for that event.
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And I still like, I was still able to recover in three weeks and I still competed, but I
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like didn't have the results that I was expecting.
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And then I had it again in 2024 in Innsbruck.
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So like it was around August last year.
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And I was just like doing a lot of training and I feel maybe it was just like overusing
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it and I did like a okay heel hook and it just popped.
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But it was like different ligaments.
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So the first time was doing a drop knee, the second time was doing a heel hook.
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Yeah, I feel like it must be hard to like mentally get over that.
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I feel like recently I know a couple of people who also hurt their knees like doing drop
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knees or like hard heel hooks.
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And yeah, any like tips for how to get over the mental side of doing like a scary heel
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hook or hard heel hook or something like that after the injury?
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Yeah, I feel like something that helped me was like I was getting inspiration from other
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people that I also knew that injured themselves.
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So I feel like I also tried to like share a bit of my injury and like my rehab process
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because I feel like having these stories to base yourself upon really help you like just
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put your head down and say like okay, I'm going to work again, I'll be back soon and
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this is gonna make me stronger.
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And I gotta say that like the times that I felt like I've had like the biggest like mental
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switches or biggest gains in my climbing were actually when I injured myself because that's
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when I had like enough time at home to like reflect about my training, what I'm doing
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right, what I'm doing wrong and really like try to make it like to a better path and work
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on other things that I normally can't.
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So like I struggle as well with like finger strength, this is something that is hard for
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me like small crimps and both times that I injured my knee were like periods where I
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could really work on my finger strength.
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So in the end of those periods, I was feeling way stronger.
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So I think that injuries like of course they're really bad and not ideal for like a competition
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year, but if you like try to deal them in the best way possible, I'm sure that you can
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always take like positive outcomes.
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Yeah, I've heard that a lot that you can kind of like use an injury as a motivator to improve
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other areas of your climbing.
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Have you had any injuries?
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I actually, shoulders are the main thing but it's really hard to climb without using your
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shoulders at all.
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So yeah, honestly with shoulders, I don't really know how to continue training with
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the shoulder issue.
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Maybe some slabs.
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Yeah, yeah, slabs.
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But even then there's like some weird pressing stuff that was really hard to deal with.
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Yeah, it never got like fully like ruptured or anything.
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So at least there's that.
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But yeah, I feel like shoulders is a tough one.
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I feel like, yeah, fingers and shoulders, those are hard.
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Actually haven't had a finger injury though, knocking on wood.
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Yeah, fingers are the worst.
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Yeah, have you had a finger injury?
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I've never had like a major finger injury, like I've never fully ruptured a pulley, but
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I've had like minor ones that last for so many months.
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They're like pretty annoying.
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Yeah, surprisingly, I feel like based on the athletes I've talked to, there's actually
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very few injuries, like finger injuries.
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And maybe that's like why they're great World Cup climbers, because they haven't had to
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take time off to deal with a finger injury.
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But yeah, going back to what you're saying about starting climbing fairly recently compared
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to other climbers in like the senior World Cup circuit, what do you feel like you focused
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on to get good so fast, especially kind of starting from like zero?
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Yeah, so I think what really boosted my career here in Brazil was the fact that I went to
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Australia to an exchange program when I was in second year of high school.
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So when I was like 16 and I lived there for a year.
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And here in Brazil, like we struggle with the fact that the importation taxes to bring
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holds to Brazil are really expensive.
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And so the gyms here, we mostly have like national hold that are getting really good.
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Like recently we have some brands that are like standing out and stuff.
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But back in the day when I started, it was hard to have like exposure to like cheetah
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flat hold.
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We still barely have them here.
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And also like movement wise, we didn't have like coordination or slabs and stuff like
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that.
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So I feel like going to Australia really like opened up my eyes and I was like learning
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a whole new like climbing world in 2019.
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And I feel like when I came back, I had this advantage over like some other athletes that
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were maybe stronger to like have learned so much like technique.
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And that's what I feel like I've done in the last like World Cup years as well.
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I was just trying to become like a better technical climber.
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Like I really focused on slabs and coordination like really trying to understand how my body
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moves on the wall.
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And I feel like now like in the last year, I feel like I've like got to a point where
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I'm like okay that's good but now I need to start focusing more on my power.
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So right now like my focus is 100% on getting stronger fingers to be able to like really
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be in that semi-finals level.
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Yeah, what are like the holds that you were talking about earlier?
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Are there any like Brazilian hold brands that we might know of or is it have you never seen
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them outside of Brazil?
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Yeah, so it's just expanding right now.
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We have a brand called Crux and they're like dominating the market here like nationally
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right now and they just started selling holds like to the US.
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I think they're going to Europe now which is pretty cool to see and because we're having
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exciting news, we're having a World Cup here.
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Yeah.
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They are also gonna be a part of it.
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They were able to get like a spot in the IFSC recognized holds.
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So I think you guys will all see some Crux holds in the World Cup.
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Okay, I'll have to keep an eye out for that.
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I'm excited to see some different holds.
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That'll be interesting.
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I wonder if I've seen them before.
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I think they were in the there were a few in the last Pan Am games we had just like
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last year in November.
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Okay, I might recognize them if I see them again.
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And so what did you move to Australia for?
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It was just like a school exchange program or?
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My parents always thought it was good to do it in a year outside of Brazil.
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So like gain experience like life experience and my sister she lives in Australia and so
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it was pretty easy to I lived with her.
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So yeah, that was a really nice thing as well.
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She's like 15 years older than me.
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Whoa.
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She was almost like a mom for me.
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Yeah, wow.
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When we were there.
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There's difference.
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Yeah, and yeah, and it was in fact great.
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And I also went there back in 2023.
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I was back in Australia for more training because I thought it was a pretty great place
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to train and I had like the opportunity to stay in my sister's house.
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It was like cheaper than going to Europe.
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Yeah, for sure.
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Does she also climb or no?
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00:14:55,640 --> 00:15:01,040
No, she actually used to be a professional ballet dancer.
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She danced for Bolshoi.
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I don't know if you know it.
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It's like a Russian company.
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It's pretty big.
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Okay, nice.
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Yeah.
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Have you been to Australia?
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No, I've never never been to the Southern Hemisphere.
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It's a little far.
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Yeah, I guess.
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Yeah, Brazil is also in the South.
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Yeah, no, it's just it's really far.
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Like I'm kind of surprised about how far it is because I've like looked into like flights
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to like South America or like Australia and it's always way further than I expected to
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be.
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And then I and then I back out.
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But I do I do want to visit at some point.
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Yeah, you should.
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But it is pretty far.
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Like going from here to Australia, it's normally at least two 12 hour flights.
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Yeah, exactly.
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Two days traveling.
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Like once it gets around like the 20 hours of traveling, I kind of cap out there.
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But one day I really should.
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Did you get coaching there too?
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Or was it just getting like whole practice with different holds?
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I was mostly like just so psyched on having like crazy different boulders.
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00:16:12,440 --> 00:16:19,600
Yeah, so I would like mostly just climb until I had no skin left every single day and try
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like all the climbs.
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But I did have like a coach back here in Brazil and we would always like talk over the phone,
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see how it's going.
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So it was nice to have also some guidance out there.
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Yeah, so then getting into your World Cup experience, you fairly recently just had your
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best World Cup bouldering result in Prague.
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I think you came in 35th.
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So definitely on the way to making semis.
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So congrats on that.
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That must be really exciting.
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What felt different about that World Cup for you?
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About that one in specific, it was right after my knee injury last year as well.
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It was like three weeks, maybe four after my knee injury.
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And I was in Innsbruck in that time.
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And I was like, I decided to stay in Innsbruck.
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And I also skipped copper, which was lead.
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And I had like this one month to just recover, get stronger.
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And I was so focused on it.
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And I feel like that really helped me getting stronger, getting really fit.
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And being in Innsbruck, you're always surrounded by so many strong climbers that I was able
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to maybe start already getting into the World Cup environment before the World Cup.
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So I feel like that helped me.
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Every day I was seeing someone pushing the limits of what I thought it was possible.
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And I had like really hard blocks every day to train on.
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And I feel like Prague was also an experiment.
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Like I'm coming back from an injury, so I have no high expectations.
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But at the same time, I know I'm feeling strong.
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And the round also suited me.
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So I feel like it was like a combo of all those things.
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And yeah, I think that was also the second best result we had like nationally for Brazil.
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Nice.
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So I was pretty psyched on it.
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How was your knee feeling at that time?
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I competed with a knee brace.
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I don't know if that's the name.
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00:18:28,280 --> 00:18:29,280
Oh, wow.
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Really?
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Okay.
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Yeah.
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00:18:32,280 --> 00:18:37,360
We had to ask for like a special like require to be able to use it.
296
00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:41,040
So with it, I was feeling pretty confident.
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Luckily, I didn't have to do any extraneous heel hooks on my left leg.
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So it ended up being fine.
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It was just a bit unfortunate because one of the boulders, you had to like do a double
300
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jump into a pinch like for the top and it was pretty high up and kind of sideways.
301
00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:09,440
And the first time I got to it, I like fell like super bad, falling like twisting.
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00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:16,000
And that got a bit into my mind and I was like in the mats thinking like, I know I can
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send this, but I don't know if I want to risk my knee right now because I had pen amps coming
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up.
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00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:27,560
And so I decided to like not try the boulder again.
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And maybe if I did, I would have been in semis.
307
00:19:31,080 --> 00:19:32,080
Oh, wow.
308
00:19:32,080 --> 00:19:34,800
Well, there's still there's next times.
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There's lots of workups coming up.
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The knee brace, was it like still a hard brace or was it just like some like does it actually
311
00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:50,120
keep your knee in place or is it kind of just like that mental like awareness of your knee?
312
00:19:50,120 --> 00:20:00,080
It's like a sock, but it has like two hard plastic things on the sides that also move
313
00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:01,680
on the center of the knee.
314
00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:05,600
So they like stabilize when you fall.
315
00:20:05,600 --> 00:20:10,360
So it like gives you a bit, they work kind of as ligament.
316
00:20:10,360 --> 00:20:14,640
So it just makes your knee stable when you're not fully stable yet.
317
00:20:14,640 --> 00:20:15,640
Yeah.
318
00:20:15,640 --> 00:20:20,760
I mean, impressive to get that result with a knee brace on.
319
00:20:20,760 --> 00:20:26,080
What do you feel like you need to focus more on in order to make semis like this season?
320
00:20:26,080 --> 00:20:32,280
I feel like I've been on a good path right now, like looking up my results from the last
321
00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:36,360
like I've been on the circuit for three years, I think.
322
00:20:36,360 --> 00:20:39,320
And first World Cup, I was like lost place.
323
00:20:39,320 --> 00:20:40,320
Sure.
324
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Understand.
325
00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:43,360
And I've been building up.
326
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So I feel like this 35th place also built up my confidence a lot.
327
00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:57,480
It's hard to be in South America and not having like not having like hard blocks to train
328
00:20:57,480 --> 00:21:05,560
on and seeing like strong people doing impossible things every day and still believing that
329
00:21:05,560 --> 00:21:06,600
we can do it.
330
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:13,720
I feel like in South America, we need to start believing more in ourselves like all athletes
331
00:21:13,720 --> 00:21:17,440
because of course we have less resources.
332
00:21:17,440 --> 00:21:22,580
We don't have the structure or the time of the sport being developed in the country for
333
00:21:22,580 --> 00:21:24,040
so long.
334
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:27,320
But I feel like we have fight in ourselves.
335
00:21:27,320 --> 00:21:30,760
We have the fight to do it.
336
00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:35,600
And I feel like I gained technique in the last few years as I said, and now I feel like
337
00:21:35,600 --> 00:21:39,180
I just need a bit more power.
338
00:21:39,180 --> 00:21:45,080
So that's what I'm working on right now, getting more fit, stronger, stronger fingers.
339
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,600
And I think I can do it.
340
00:21:46,600 --> 00:21:52,920
Yeah, I mean, you mentioned that it's like hard for you to get difficult enough sets
341
00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:58,960
in the gym and that there's not as many other like strong climbers to, I guess, motivate
342
00:21:58,960 --> 00:21:59,960
you.
343
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:05,600
I definitely understand like the need to like see someone doing something better than you
344
00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:12,620
to like get the psych up and get that like competitive mindset going.
345
00:22:12,620 --> 00:22:16,680
Have you considered living abroad for more practice?
346
00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:19,400
I had for sure.
347
00:22:19,400 --> 00:22:24,640
There's a few factors like it's pretty expensive for us like the dollar right now is like six
348
00:22:24,640 --> 00:22:27,320
to one.
349
00:22:27,320 --> 00:22:31,480
And it's like I always use like this example.
350
00:22:31,480 --> 00:22:37,640
I think it's a good example to measure things like a climbing shoe here for us like a Scarpa
351
00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:42,040
shoe like a Drago for example that is what I compete on.
352
00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:50,160
Costs a thousand and three hundred reais for us when you convert it and that's like the
353
00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:53,680
same as the minimum wage here in Brazil.
354
00:22:53,680 --> 00:22:59,340
So like a climbing shoe costs like same or more than the minimum wage someone gets paid
355
00:22:59,340 --> 00:23:00,920
here for a month.
356
00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:06,760
So it's like pretty expensive like the gear and that's why also the holds are so expensive
357
00:23:06,760 --> 00:23:08,600
for the gyms.
358
00:23:08,600 --> 00:23:15,520
But I got to say that it's been a really good few years like the gyms here are growing so
359
00:23:15,520 --> 00:23:20,420
much like the development in our country is like beautiful to see right now.
360
00:23:20,420 --> 00:23:26,760
And the Federation just built us a very, very good training center and that's where we hosted
361
00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:34,360
like South American Championships and that's where we will be hosting the World Cup.
362
00:23:34,360 --> 00:23:39,040
So I feel like we're getting there and with the World Cup as well we're gonna get like
363
00:23:39,040 --> 00:23:42,040
more holds to train on.
364
00:23:42,040 --> 00:23:49,160
And also something that really inspired me last year was my friend from Chile, Benjamin
365
00:23:49,160 --> 00:23:50,160
Vargas.
366
00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:53,240
I don't know if you've heard of him.
367
00:23:53,240 --> 00:23:58,720
He was the first South American to make STEMIs in a bouldering World Cup and he did it last
368
00:23:58,720 --> 00:24:01,000
year in Salt Lake.
369
00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:07,400
So I was like so psyched for him and I feel like that was also like a boost that like,
370
00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:10,000
yeah, let's do it like the South Americans can do it.
371
00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:14,000
Bang Ha, he just did it so we can all do it too.
372
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:15,000
Yeah.
373
00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:22,480
So then how do you get like World Cup level difficulty practice at your home gym?
374
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:33,560
To be honest, we don't get like blocks normally on the gym sets which is like understandable.
375
00:24:33,560 --> 00:24:38,960
Like the level here is not that high to have like and we don't have as much resources to
376
00:24:38,960 --> 00:24:42,560
like do it on the gym sets.
377
00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:49,360
So we normally just like create boulders on top of the other boulders like mixing holds
378
00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:55,760
and we have like a training area, a little training area now that the gym I train on.
379
00:24:55,760 --> 00:25:00,960
It's like really, really nice to build a small space where we could like have like a spray
380
00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:07,120
wall and a slab wall and we can like we're free there to set whatever we want.
381
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:09,540
We have a lot of holds there.
382
00:25:09,540 --> 00:25:14,680
So now we're using that little training area but of course it's like hard to compare with
383
00:25:14,680 --> 00:25:20,160
like the French team that have like three, four training centers and all the holds are
384
00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:25,800
in Europe, everything is there but yeah it's a hard comparison to make.
385
00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:26,800
Yeah.
386
00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:33,040
So it's kind of up to you to build hard climbs for yourself on a spray wall.
387
00:25:33,040 --> 00:25:34,040
Yeah.
388
00:25:34,040 --> 00:25:39,760
And we're like fortunate enough that the federation helps us travel because they know that we
389
00:25:39,760 --> 00:25:43,720
need to train on that structure at least for a few periods of the year.
390
00:25:43,720 --> 00:25:47,040
So our federation really helps sending us like to Europe to training.
391
00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:51,160
Like I said I was in Innsbruck for a month when I injured my knee.
392
00:25:51,160 --> 00:25:53,480
I was there training.
393
00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:58,180
Every time we go to Salt Lake for the World Cups we often try to stay at least like two
394
00:25:58,180 --> 00:26:04,440
weeks before and then two weeks after to get some training done too and that's how we kind
395
00:26:04,440 --> 00:26:06,400
of like deal with it.
396
00:26:06,400 --> 00:26:07,400
Yeah.
397
00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:09,560
I'm sure that really does help a lot.
398
00:26:09,560 --> 00:26:15,520
I think something interesting that you mentioned is that you do get a stipend for being an
399
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,320
athlete whereas a lot of climbers from even like bigger climbing federations don't get
400
00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:28,000
that kind of support and I guess they also like help like fund your stays in other countries
401
00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:32,040
for like training before and after World Cups.
402
00:26:32,040 --> 00:26:36,680
I guess how does that like funding work in Brazil because it seems like it's really nice
403
00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,000
that they're putting a lot of money into the sport.
404
00:26:40,000 --> 00:26:47,480
Yeah so since it became an Olympic sport we're now like the federation is now like attached
405
00:26:47,480 --> 00:26:54,360
I don't know the word exactly like with the Olympic committee and so every Olympic sport
406
00:26:54,360 --> 00:27:01,360
gets like a funding from the Olympic committee per year and that funding has to be distributed
407
00:27:01,360 --> 00:27:11,200
in like different areas and so they're able to like use some of that funding to like explain
408
00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:17,600
that okay so we don't have as much structure here yet and those training programs are really
409
00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:23,720
essential to get our athletes to the level they need to and so they're able to explain
410
00:27:23,720 --> 00:27:29,120
it and that's how we can do the training camps but I'm still like so happy they're able to
411
00:27:29,120 --> 00:27:34,680
do it because as you said like I know that it's a pretty rare thing to have the federation
412
00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:38,520
paying for the athletes to train outside.
413
00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:44,560
Yeah and then in terms of like the like the athlete stipend you get is that your main
414
00:27:44,560 --> 00:27:49,280
source of income or do you also do like other like coaching on the side or anything like
415
00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:50,280
that?
416
00:27:50,280 --> 00:27:57,760
Yeah so I do some settings here in the gyms or commercial sets and I also get money from
417
00:27:57,760 --> 00:28:04,640
the government like for being an athlete right now for having like South American and Pan
418
00:28:04,640 --> 00:28:10,000
American results you get international it's like a salary that you get for being in for
419
00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:13,640
having international results as an athlete.
420
00:28:13,640 --> 00:28:18,760
You get that income from the government and then I also have it from the federation and
421
00:28:18,760 --> 00:28:22,180
from like one or two private sponsors.
422
00:28:22,180 --> 00:28:29,220
You mentioned that you do like some setting also for some income.
423
00:28:29,220 --> 00:28:33,840
Do you feel like the setting helps with your climbing or does it kind of just tire you
424
00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:35,900
out in a different way?
425
00:28:35,900 --> 00:28:39,080
It's for sure a bit of both.
426
00:28:39,080 --> 00:28:46,200
I always do get tired from setting and that affects a bit my training because it's like
427
00:28:46,200 --> 00:28:53,400
it's hard work but at the same time it's like money that's pretty important to me so I can't
428
00:28:53,400 --> 00:28:58,640
like not do it and I do feel that it helps me getting in the mind of the root setters
429
00:28:58,640 --> 00:29:00,720
when I'm also in a competition.
430
00:29:00,720 --> 00:29:05,640
I feel like it helps me know what they expect from the athletes and what they're trying
431
00:29:05,640 --> 00:29:07,760
to trick us into thinking.
432
00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:11,400
What kind of stuff do you like to set?
433
00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:19,440
I really love slabs, like I feel like that's my strong suit in my climbing as well and
434
00:29:19,440 --> 00:29:24,800
I also really enjoy like feet coordination and coordination in general.
435
00:29:24,800 --> 00:29:31,120
So what I like to set here in Brazil, it's normally new school stuff because that's the
436
00:29:31,120 --> 00:29:33,720
thing we have the least here.
437
00:29:33,720 --> 00:29:39,240
Normally the gym sets are very like rock climbing based because rock climbing here is like a
438
00:29:39,240 --> 00:29:46,280
big thing and we have really good rock here so I always try to bring like new stuff, movements
439
00:29:46,280 --> 00:29:52,940
that I've seen in world cups like in an easier version and it's like it's always taken as
440
00:29:52,940 --> 00:29:59,280
well sometimes in a bad way but then it ends up being positive because I think it's something
441
00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:06,240
new so people are like oh we don't like this jumpy jumpy stuff but in the end they always
442
00:30:06,240 --> 00:30:11,320
learn something new and then they start enjoying it so I guess it's nice to have it in the
443
00:30:11,320 --> 00:30:12,320
gym.
444
00:30:12,320 --> 00:30:17,840
It's interesting that you get that feedback but I'm glad you're able to change their minds
445
00:30:17,840 --> 00:30:20,360
about it I guess.
446
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:26,200
So yeah like I said earlier unfortunately I don't know too much about like climbing
447
00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:32,200
in South America or Brazil and also Brazil is like a massive country.
448
00:30:32,200 --> 00:30:36,440
Is there like a main climbing city for indoor like outdoor climbing?
449
00:30:36,440 --> 00:30:43,320
Yeah so I would say the cities that stand out the most like in terms of like number
450
00:30:43,320 --> 00:30:52,960
of climbing gyms and where most of the strong athletes are is São Paulo which is where
451
00:30:52,960 --> 00:30:54,680
I live, where I train.
452
00:30:54,680 --> 00:30:56,640
We have Fabrica here.
453
00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:59,360
It's a gym that's been growing a lot.
454
00:30:59,360 --> 00:31:02,280
It's owned by Felipe Camargo.
455
00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:09,320
He's like a red bull athlete, pretty like strong rock climber.
456
00:31:09,320 --> 00:31:11,680
He really pushed the limits for us as well.
457
00:31:11,680 --> 00:31:18,840
He's climbed like 9B outdoors and V15.
458
00:31:18,840 --> 00:31:25,880
And he owns this gym that has three locations here in São Paulo and then we also have Belo
459
00:31:25,880 --> 00:31:30,280
Horizonte which is in Minas Gerais.
460
00:31:30,280 --> 00:31:36,600
They also have a lot of gyms but our training center is in a city called Curitiba.
461
00:31:36,600 --> 00:31:40,840
That's where the World Cup will be and they also have like three or four pretty good gyms
462
00:31:40,840 --> 00:31:41,840
there.
463
00:31:41,840 --> 00:31:46,360
So I would say these are the three main like cities for climbing here.
464
00:31:46,360 --> 00:31:50,600
Are those cities like also good for outdoor climbing or you mentioned that there's good
465
00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:52,480
rock somewhere?
466
00:31:52,480 --> 00:31:57,800
That's something that is really, really, really big in Brazil and I wish more people would
467
00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:05,100
come here to climb outdoors because our gym like scene is still developing a lot.
468
00:32:05,100 --> 00:32:11,080
It's still growing but rock climbing wise, we have like so many nice crags.
469
00:32:11,080 --> 00:32:13,540
There's like two places.
470
00:32:13,540 --> 00:32:18,400
One is called Milho Verde and the other one is called Igatu.
471
00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:24,240
They were both like featured in a North Face video with Daniel Woods and Juliana called
472
00:32:24,240 --> 00:32:25,240
Night Moves.
473
00:32:25,240 --> 00:32:27,160
I don't know if you've watched it.
474
00:32:27,160 --> 00:32:30,040
I haven't watched that one but…
475
00:32:30,040 --> 00:32:35,760
They talked like how it's like as big as Rocklands like both places.
476
00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:42,860
It's like endless rock, endless like possibilities but there's just like not enough climbers
477
00:32:42,860 --> 00:32:45,960
out here to open to make the first ascent.
478
00:32:45,960 --> 00:32:51,640
So, we have like these incredible places that just need like strong climbers to come out
479
00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:53,200
here and send everything.
480
00:32:53,200 --> 00:32:59,440
I haven't seen the video but I'll have to link it in the description and take a look.
481
00:32:59,440 --> 00:33:03,600
Do you have any interest in like developing these areas in the future?
482
00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:04,600
Yeah, for sure.
483
00:33:04,600 --> 00:33:11,680
Like rock climbing is also how I fell even more in love with the sport and it's something
484
00:33:11,680 --> 00:33:18,600
that we even do here sometimes to get that like try hard feeling as we don't have it
485
00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:20,120
like as much in the gyms.
486
00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:25,560
I often like to go try like hard projects outdoor to get me feeling like strong on my
487
00:33:25,560 --> 00:33:30,080
fingers and getting that try hard in my mind before a comp.
488
00:33:30,080 --> 00:33:35,000
So I feel like that's a strategy we often use here as well.
489
00:33:35,000 --> 00:33:40,760
And right now what I think as well it's like I don't do as many rock trips as I would
490
00:33:40,760 --> 00:33:46,120
like to but I always think like well the rocks they're always gonna be there, they're not
491
00:33:46,120 --> 00:33:52,920
going anywhere whereas the comps like my climbing career as like a comp athlete it's gonna end
492
00:33:52,920 --> 00:33:58,520
like at some point and I'm gonna be way stronger by then and the rocks are still gonna be there.
493
00:33:58,520 --> 00:34:05,760
So like I'm just like not yet doing those climbing trips outdoors as much.
494
00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:10,880
Yeah, you mentioned that like outdoor rock climbing also kind of helps you get in the
495
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:13,640
try hard mentality for comps.
496
00:34:13,640 --> 00:34:16,000
Do you feel like it does?
497
00:34:16,000 --> 00:34:20,840
I guess I wonder how much it translates because there's sort of like a different mentality
498
00:34:20,840 --> 00:34:26,920
outside compared to comps where like outside like you said it's always gonna be there whereas
499
00:34:26,920 --> 00:34:30,800
at comps you really only get a few attempts.
500
00:34:30,800 --> 00:34:36,320
So do you kind of try to like bring that comp mindset to outdoor climbing or does it just
501
00:34:36,320 --> 00:34:38,320
like help in different ways?
502
00:34:38,320 --> 00:34:46,440
For sure the comp mindset helped me a few times outdoors where I was like not doing
503
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:52,040
a climb and then I just like centered out and I was like okay imagine I'm like in a
504
00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:57,920
competition this is the last boulder like for me to get a gold and just try to enter
505
00:34:57,920 --> 00:35:01,200
in that mentality and it made me send the boulder.
506
00:35:01,200 --> 00:35:08,120
So I feel like both ways translate well and also when I'm outdoors I feel like those are
507
00:35:08,120 --> 00:35:16,920
the moments that I really feel connected like with how I started climbing and really connected
508
00:35:16,920 --> 00:35:24,880
with myself just being out in nature you know touching some rocks it's like it really brings
509
00:35:24,880 --> 00:35:30,600
me back to like my core and I feel like that helps me just train harder for the next few
510
00:35:30,600 --> 00:35:37,840
weeks and also just like how the rock is formed is like you can't just change a few screws
511
00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:41,920
and the hold is gonna twist a little bit or you can make the boulder easier.
512
00:35:41,920 --> 00:35:49,720
It just is as it is so either try it really hard or you're not gonna send it and I feel
513
00:35:49,720 --> 00:35:54,400
like that's what I get a lot from the rocks when I go outside.
514
00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:55,680
I don't know if it makes this.
515
00:35:55,680 --> 00:35:58,520
I'm sure some people would relate to it yeah.
516
00:35:58,520 --> 00:36:04,400
I have like a very backwards thinking where I just I don't really like climbing outside
517
00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:10,680
and I don't feel connected to nature so it like it never translates for me but I know
518
00:36:10,680 --> 00:36:17,560
for a lot of people it does so I think other people will relate to that better.
519
00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:23,240
Just going back to like the bouldering world cup that's gonna take place in Curitiba do
520
00:36:23,240 --> 00:36:28,600
you think you're gonna feel like a hometown advantage or are you gonna feel like pressure
521
00:36:28,600 --> 00:36:30,600
that you have to perform?
522
00:36:30,600 --> 00:36:33,720
I feel like pressure will come.
523
00:36:33,720 --> 00:36:40,760
Right now I'm not feeling it but I know for a fact that everyone that climbs here in Brazil
524
00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:43,720
is going to Curitiba to watch the world cup.
525
00:36:43,720 --> 00:36:49,200
It's gonna be like a big thing like having the first world cup in South America so for
526
00:36:49,200 --> 00:36:51,560
sure it's gonna be a great event.
527
00:36:51,560 --> 00:36:59,440
I really hope like all the athletes come and compete and I feel like I will have for sure
528
00:36:59,440 --> 00:37:04,480
like support from the crowd and that's gonna like like me up so much.
529
00:37:04,480 --> 00:37:06,920
It has been psyching me up this year.
530
00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:13,320
I'm like I'm feeling really focused on training and having the world cup in my mind is really
531
00:37:13,320 --> 00:37:19,600
helping me like train hard every day so I feel like not even just on the comp but also
532
00:37:19,600 --> 00:37:25,560
like in this pre-season moment it's been helping me to know that I'm gonna have a world cup
533
00:37:25,560 --> 00:37:26,560
in my country.
534
00:37:26,560 --> 00:37:30,000
How like is the climbing community big?
535
00:37:30,000 --> 00:37:33,400
Like you think it'll be like a huge showing people are gonna be loud the crowd's gonna
536
00:37:33,400 --> 00:37:34,640
be like crazy?
537
00:37:34,640 --> 00:37:45,000
I feel like Brazilian people they're all very like loud like happy and festive so I feel
538
00:37:45,000 --> 00:37:47,760
like it's gonna be very nice.
539
00:37:47,760 --> 00:37:54,200
I don't think it would be like as many people as like an Innsbruck World Cup or like Chamonix
540
00:37:54,200 --> 00:38:00,720
just because it's been there for so many years but I really hope we make like a good event
541
00:38:00,720 --> 00:38:03,680
and that it happens again in the next years.
542
00:38:03,680 --> 00:38:06,560
Yeah well I hope it'll be a good time.
543
00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:09,400
How does like crowd noise influence you?
544
00:38:09,400 --> 00:38:13,640
Because I've only been to like a couple world cups in person.
545
00:38:13,640 --> 00:38:22,520
I went to one in China where it was like pretty quiet so the yeah the atmosphere was like
546
00:38:22,520 --> 00:38:28,080
kind of weird feeling I think and I went to like the Salt Lake one where it was a lot
547
00:38:28,080 --> 00:38:31,800
louder but I haven't been to like any European ones.
548
00:38:31,800 --> 00:38:35,920
Yeah how does crowd noise affect your performance?
549
00:38:35,920 --> 00:38:46,680
Normally like of course I hear something here and there like very very it's not that often
550
00:38:46,680 --> 00:38:52,800
because normally when I go into the meds I fully tunnel vision and like every time we
551
00:38:52,800 --> 00:38:59,560
do like athletes presentation before starting like a boulder final for example I feel like
552
00:38:59,560 --> 00:39:05,120
I normally don't see anyone it's just like a black wall in front of me I'm just looking
553
00:39:05,120 --> 00:39:11,480
at the clock and really really focus on boulders I feel like that's something that I can do
554
00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:17,480
pretty well like 100% focusing on the climbs.
555
00:39:17,480 --> 00:39:24,720
Of course when I send them I really like to cheer on and look back and see everyone but
556
00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:27,680
coming into the next boulder is like same feeling.
557
00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:32,680
Going back into mindset I feel like a few times you mentioned that you don't think you're
558
00:39:32,680 --> 00:39:39,760
the strongest climber so you focus more on mindset and routines and body movement so
559
00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:45,680
I guess like first of all why don't you think you're very strong?
560
00:39:45,680 --> 00:39:49,340
Please excuse this brief intermission but if you're interested in deleted scenes from
561
00:39:49,340 --> 00:39:54,980
this episode where we talk about what grade he climbs at B-Pump and also my competition
562
00:39:54,980 --> 00:40:00,120
experience do consider helping support this podcast on Patreon.
563
00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:05,200
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564
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565
00:40:10,400 --> 00:40:16,160
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566
00:40:16,160 --> 00:40:18,520
experience of the guests.
567
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568
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569
00:40:25,120 --> 00:40:26,280
Back to the show!
570
00:40:26,280 --> 00:40:35,960
I think it has something to do with like starting to climb very chubby and always being like
571
00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:42,360
bigger than the other guys that has always like affected me mentally like it's a bit
572
00:40:42,360 --> 00:40:48,800
of a struggle like always feeling fat and stuff like that and that makes me not feel
573
00:40:48,800 --> 00:40:52,560
like as strong.
574
00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:57,720
But I also do believe that like just in training when we go training together for example me
575
00:40:57,720 --> 00:41:05,400
and my other teammates, Felipe and Samuka for example, they're like insanely strong
576
00:41:05,400 --> 00:41:12,100
like we've trained like with other teams and the coaches everyone always says like how
577
00:41:12,100 --> 00:41:15,800
crazy strong they are.
578
00:41:15,800 --> 00:41:20,440
They really really stand out like when it comes to power.
579
00:41:20,440 --> 00:41:27,200
And so like every time we spray SESH or just kill Ter SESH, I always get destroyed by them
580
00:41:27,200 --> 00:41:31,360
like they're really really strong.
581
00:41:31,360 --> 00:41:36,920
But then in comps like in the last few years, I've won nationals and South American Cups
582
00:41:36,920 --> 00:41:44,840
and stuff and that kept like that kept me thinking like that maybe that's why.
583
00:41:44,840 --> 00:41:47,640
So like how I always like focused.
584
00:41:47,640 --> 00:41:51,520
I knew that I wasn't the strongest in the sessions and that I couldn't beat them on
585
00:41:51,520 --> 00:41:54,040
spray walls and stuff like that.
586
00:41:54,040 --> 00:41:56,400
So I was like I went the other way.
587
00:41:56,400 --> 00:42:02,360
I was like okay if I can't beat them right now on this point like if I can't beat them
588
00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:08,480
on a spray wall, if I can't be stronger, then I'm gonna be like that I'm gonna be the strongest
589
00:42:08,480 --> 00:42:10,520
in everything else.
590
00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:16,880
And I feel like that's when I started reading a lot of books about meditation and how to
591
00:42:16,880 --> 00:42:20,480
like have a stronger mindset.
592
00:42:20,480 --> 00:42:26,760
There's like a really good books that I've read about flow stage and I feel like that
593
00:42:26,760 --> 00:42:29,800
really helped me.
594
00:42:29,800 --> 00:42:36,960
And I feel like that came as well from having I wouldn't call it a therapist but I've worked
595
00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:46,000
when I was younger with this woman called Esther and she would teach me how to like
596
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:52,920
at a very young age when I was eight or nine just exercises on how to like manipulate my
597
00:42:52,920 --> 00:42:58,680
own brain in ways that would help me like strive in different areas of my life.
598
00:42:58,680 --> 00:43:06,040
So like different exercises to like overcome fear or to be more focused in school and I
599
00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:11,880
feel like all of those exercises translated really well to my climbing like competition
600
00:43:11,880 --> 00:43:13,160
mindset.
601
00:43:13,160 --> 00:43:19,280
There's like I have like maybe four or five exercises that I always do before answering
602
00:43:19,280 --> 00:43:28,760
a boulder round and I don't see many athletes doing like a very specific mindset routine
603
00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:30,880
before entering the rounds.
604
00:43:30,880 --> 00:43:32,360
What are those exercises?
605
00:43:32,360 --> 00:43:37,720
Yeah, so there's one where I do like it's like some pretty basic stuff that look kind
606
00:43:37,720 --> 00:43:42,360
of dumb but really work for me.
607
00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:46,800
One of them is like just putting my fingers in front of me like this and then opening
608
00:43:46,800 --> 00:43:55,120
up all the way to like my sides and that helps me like being focused on what I'm doing but
609
00:43:55,120 --> 00:44:00,920
still being aware of the whole boulder like and for example, before visualization of the
610
00:44:00,920 --> 00:44:05,440
climbs, I always like to do that because I'm like reading exactly what I need to do but
611
00:44:05,440 --> 00:44:10,620
that helps me like as I have like a panoramic view, it helps me come back and remember the
612
00:44:10,620 --> 00:44:17,280
whole climb, remember maybe a put hold that I didn't see, stuff like that.
613
00:44:17,280 --> 00:44:23,360
Another thing that I like to do is like I close my fist and I close my eyes and I remember
614
00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:30,480
like all the good moments I've had in comps like amazing tops or buzzer beaters or like
615
00:44:30,480 --> 00:44:36,960
remembering myself on a podium that I was really psyched on and I do that like over
616
00:44:36,960 --> 00:44:43,840
a few weeks before a comp and every time I close my fist and so my brain like associates
617
00:44:43,840 --> 00:44:49,840
those feelings with closing my fist and so right before going into the round, I don't
618
00:44:49,840 --> 00:44:55,320
have to like think of all those things and really close my eyes and remember all those
619
00:44:55,320 --> 00:44:56,320
things.
620
00:44:56,320 --> 00:45:01,440
I just close my fist with the intention of closing my fist and I already like I feel
621
00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:06,300
like this fire coming inside of me of all those moments that I was memorizing before
622
00:45:06,300 --> 00:45:07,880
going into the round.
623
00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:11,200
So that's also something that like really really helps me.
624
00:45:11,200 --> 00:45:17,680
I really feel like so much more energized before going into the round when I do this
625
00:45:17,680 --> 00:45:24,160
and yeah and a few other things that I feel like helped me a lot came from Esther.
626
00:45:24,160 --> 00:45:31,160
Yeah, I love like remembering I don't know just like great climbing moments but I can't
627
00:45:31,160 --> 00:45:35,600
always remember them off the top of my head so yeah maybe I need to try that and get the
628
00:45:35,600 --> 00:45:36,600
psych up.
629
00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:44,040
Yeah, are there any like I guess you mentioned she was kind of like a therapist to you.
630
00:45:44,040 --> 00:45:51,120
Are there any like non-climbing related things you learned that you'd want to share?
631
00:45:51,120 --> 00:46:00,520
It was a very long time ago so it's like hard to remember like specific things that we learned
632
00:46:00,520 --> 00:46:08,280
together that helped me but I can just say like for sure I became a better person and
633
00:46:08,280 --> 00:46:10,200
just learned so much about myself.
634
00:46:10,200 --> 00:46:14,920
I still do like we still have appointments here and there when I feel like I need to
635
00:46:14,920 --> 00:46:24,640
follow like something in my climbing that's not going well and yeah I feel like trying
636
00:46:24,640 --> 00:46:32,040
to always look not only like when you're struggling to like get over like a lip in your climbing
637
00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:37,460
like when you're stuck in a grade and you want to push yourself, I feel like often it's
638
00:46:37,460 --> 00:46:43,840
not just getting stronger it's like there's so many areas that you can look on before
639
00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:48,360
just going like I need to do more pull-ups.
640
00:46:48,360 --> 00:46:54,440
So yeah I feel like that's what helped me like doing more mental strategies and working
641
00:46:54,440 --> 00:47:00,920
more on technique, focusing more on my diet, how I'm sleeping that for sure everything
642
00:47:00,920 --> 00:47:03,760
affects your performance.
643
00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:09,740
Yeah I feel like a lot of people often just feel like they should just get strong instead
644
00:47:09,740 --> 00:47:15,280
of working on like mindset or movement or anything like that first.
645
00:47:15,280 --> 00:47:20,920
I guess are there any like strength metrics you want to get out there like maybe if people
646
00:47:20,920 --> 00:47:26,200
hear that they're around a similar like strength level to you they'll feel inspired to like
647
00:47:26,200 --> 00:47:29,160
work on their mindset or movement.
648
00:47:29,160 --> 00:47:38,240
Yeah so like something funny that I've always knew was like I still I can barely do a one
649
00:47:38,240 --> 00:47:42,840
arm pull-up right now like it's something that I struggle on.
650
00:47:42,840 --> 00:47:49,880
Bout levers are pretty hard too and it's like I didn't do a one arm pull-up before being
651
00:47:49,880 --> 00:47:56,800
able to like win nationals or send like my first V13 outdoors.
652
00:47:56,800 --> 00:48:03,160
So it's like I feel like you can gain so much just from learning movement, learning how
653
00:48:03,160 --> 00:48:10,200
to move better on the wall, how to use your hips, your legs before you need to do those
654
00:48:10,200 --> 00:48:11,200
things.
655
00:48:11,200 --> 00:48:17,240
It helps and of course that's like what I need to work on right now and I do get inspired
656
00:48:17,240 --> 00:48:23,760
by people who can do like crazy things on like the Q2 board.
657
00:48:23,760 --> 00:48:25,440
But yeah I feel like it's not everything.
658
00:48:25,440 --> 00:48:28,520
Okay well yeah that's what everyone should hear.
659
00:48:28,520 --> 00:48:33,840
You should be able to climb at least V13 even if you can't do a one arm pull-up.
660
00:48:33,840 --> 00:48:37,280
I think that's the story to get out there.
661
00:48:37,280 --> 00:48:42,520
And one last thing about like the strength stuff.
662
00:48:42,520 --> 00:48:47,280
I might cut this out but it's just like it keeps sticking in my mind.
663
00:48:47,280 --> 00:48:52,600
I feel like I know someone who had like a very similar story to you where they said
664
00:48:52,600 --> 00:48:59,720
that they like started climbing when they were like chubbier and he says like once a
665
00:48:59,720 --> 00:49:06,640
fat kid always a fat kid so he just like always feels like that even though like he's quite
666
00:49:06,640 --> 00:49:10,040
strong now he's like climbed for a long time.
667
00:49:10,040 --> 00:49:11,480
Do you relate to that?
668
00:49:11,480 --> 00:49:13,320
Like do you still feel like that?
669
00:49:13,320 --> 00:49:15,360
Oh yeah 100%.
670
00:49:15,360 --> 00:49:17,040
Oh my gosh.
671
00:49:17,040 --> 00:49:23,280
That's like something that I always have in the back of my mind and people always tell
672
00:49:23,280 --> 00:49:27,400
me like stop thinking that it doesn't make sense.
673
00:49:27,400 --> 00:49:34,440
I wouldn't say it's like a I wouldn't say I have like eating disorders or anything which
674
00:49:34,440 --> 00:49:43,800
I know is like common in the climbing scene to have but it does like annoy me from time
675
00:49:43,800 --> 00:49:44,800
to time.
676
00:49:44,800 --> 00:49:47,560
Yeah I guess like how does that manifest for you?
677
00:49:47,560 --> 00:49:51,880
Like how does it show up or like affect you mentally?
678
00:49:51,880 --> 00:50:00,160
It does get me sometimes like just feeling more like down without feeling the side to
679
00:50:00,160 --> 00:50:06,060
train more and then sometimes feeling like I'm not in the shape I wanted to makes me
680
00:50:06,060 --> 00:50:13,440
when I eat more like as a counter effect I don't feel like it's a disorder or anything
681
00:50:13,440 --> 00:50:18,960
it just like makes me a bit more down sometimes.
682
00:50:18,960 --> 00:50:26,840
Makes me a bit anxious and from that sometimes I want to eat more and then after eating more
683
00:50:26,840 --> 00:50:34,200
I'm like oh well now I'm just like fat again you know but it's like it's something that
684
00:50:34,200 --> 00:50:41,920
I feel like a lot of people struggle with and I've always tried to have like a good
685
00:50:41,920 --> 00:50:44,280
relationship with food.
686
00:50:44,280 --> 00:50:46,280
I love eating.
687
00:50:46,280 --> 00:50:52,100
Is there do you have any like I guess like tips or things that worked for you in helping
688
00:50:52,100 --> 00:50:55,320
you get out of that kind of negative mindset?
689
00:50:55,320 --> 00:51:02,280
Yeah I feel like it often comes like oh like I can't do this move just because I'm chubby
690
00:51:02,280 --> 00:51:11,160
or that's the reason why I'm not sending this time or you know not like feeling strong but
691
00:51:11,160 --> 00:51:15,800
then in the end of the day when I look back like that wasn't what stopped me from like
692
00:51:15,800 --> 00:51:21,080
getting the results that I did and those were the times when I was feeling good with myself
693
00:51:21,080 --> 00:51:29,560
and not necessarily I was like one kilo heavier or one kilogram like lighter so it's a lot
694
00:51:29,560 --> 00:51:36,680
about like your mind and I feel like we look at ourselves in the mirror always like differently
695
00:51:36,680 --> 00:51:39,880
from what we may actually be.
696
00:51:39,880 --> 00:51:45,100
Well yeah I'm sure a lot of people can relate to that as well whether they're like trying
697
00:51:45,100 --> 00:51:51,440
to be full-on athletes or just like climbing casually so yeah hopefully a lot of people
698
00:51:51,440 --> 00:51:53,000
can relate to that.
699
00:51:53,000 --> 00:51:58,040
Okay I think those were all the questions I had so moving on to some of the discord
700
00:51:58,040 --> 00:52:01,320
and Instagram questions that came through.
701
00:52:01,320 --> 00:52:06,080
The first one from Instagram was top three slab tips.
702
00:52:06,080 --> 00:52:17,920
I feel like the first one is a classic but it's like trusting.
703
00:52:17,920 --> 00:52:24,600
I did some training with Roman like the Yanez coach when I was in I would have been to Slovenia
704
00:52:24,600 --> 00:52:31,680
training with them and one thing that Roman would always tell me was if you're if you
705
00:52:31,680 --> 00:52:38,520
feel like you need to try hard on your upper body like if you're trying to solve it with
706
00:52:38,520 --> 00:52:41,520
strength you're doing it wrong.
707
00:52:41,520 --> 00:52:48,640
Like of course it's not like major rule you always have to follow but he was basically
708
00:52:48,640 --> 00:52:54,920
saying like you can always like change your foot a little bit trust more your legs your
709
00:52:54,920 --> 00:53:02,120
hips and that really helped me develop my slab game.
710
00:53:02,120 --> 00:53:10,680
Second thing I would say is you have to be kind of like not scared to die like you have
711
00:53:10,680 --> 00:53:20,640
to be like willing to you know like how do you say like hit your chin or hit your nose
712
00:53:20,640 --> 00:53:27,200
on the wall because it's like if you're scared of doing the move and you don't fully commit
713
00:53:27,200 --> 00:53:32,440
you're gonna slip and on slab if you don't trust your foot you're gonna slip and so if
714
00:53:32,440 --> 00:53:38,760
you're willing to like okay I don't even care if I hit my shin on the wall that and trust
715
00:53:38,760 --> 00:53:42,480
your foot 100% that's when you stick in movement.
716
00:53:42,480 --> 00:53:52,640
You've got to be fearless on slabs and I would say that the third point it's like calm you
717
00:53:52,640 --> 00:53:58,960
have to be really calm sometimes in comps even in the South American comp we had like
718
00:53:58,960 --> 00:54:10,000
two months ago just me and Beng Ha sent this really really hard slab and it was so long
719
00:54:10,000 --> 00:54:16,800
that you only had two attempts on it like it was so long and it had no handholds just
720
00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:22,320
like foot walking and most people couldn't send it because after their first try they
721
00:54:22,320 --> 00:54:27,040
saw there was like only two minutes on the clock and started trying to rush it and that's
722
00:54:27,040 --> 00:54:31,320
when you start to go around so if you want to send this slab you got to really really
723
00:54:31,320 --> 00:54:35,960
breathe and do like everything feeling that you're in a stable position.
724
00:54:35,960 --> 00:54:40,040
Do you do any like breath work on the wall or off the wall as part of like your mindset
725
00:54:40,040 --> 00:54:41,040
work?
726
00:54:41,040 --> 00:54:46,640
I don't do a lot of breath work I wish I did more I definitely want to dig more into it
727
00:54:46,640 --> 00:54:51,760
but when I'm on the wall I always try to like on the slabs try to keep my heart rate low
728
00:54:51,760 --> 00:54:56,680
I feel like I start getting anxious it's so hard it's so much harder to send slabs with
729
00:54:56,680 --> 00:54:58,680
a higher heartbeat.
730
00:54:58,680 --> 00:55:04,860
I'm assuming like your shins are all beat up then you've got a lot of scabs and cuts
731
00:55:04,860 --> 00:55:07,720
and bruises on your legs.
732
00:55:07,720 --> 00:55:12,840
Yeah I feel like I think I still have like one in my shin right here from like two days
733
00:55:12,840 --> 00:55:13,840
ago.
734
00:55:13,840 --> 00:55:18,480
Oh yeah yeah oh your chin I was talking about your legs and your shins.
735
00:55:18,480 --> 00:55:21,920
Oh sorry yeah my shins too but my chin as well.
736
00:55:21,920 --> 00:55:30,400
Okay yeah yeah it's tough in the shower when you just break something open.
737
00:55:30,400 --> 00:55:37,600
I found a lot of help from using like waterproof bandages those are my that's my slab tip.
738
00:55:37,600 --> 00:55:40,280
Have you tried waterproof bandages?
739
00:55:40,280 --> 00:55:41,280
I haven't.
740
00:55:41,280 --> 00:55:44,520
Oh it makes a huge difference.
741
00:55:44,520 --> 00:55:47,320
Makes you more confident too?
742
00:55:47,320 --> 00:55:52,320
It's just like after you like have the cut you don't have to like deal with the pain
743
00:55:52,320 --> 00:55:56,320
in the shower of like the water hitting your like fresh cut.
744
00:55:56,320 --> 00:56:01,520
Yeah and does that make you like oh I'm gonna commit to this move and even if I hurt myself
745
00:56:01,520 --> 00:56:05,000
I just put them on and it will be fine.
746
00:56:05,000 --> 00:56:10,720
I guess a little it's like oh I know that it'll hurt like when I do it but then afterwards
747
00:56:10,720 --> 00:56:14,280
when I shower it won't be too bad.
748
00:56:14,280 --> 00:56:17,120
Yeah that's my slab tip.
749
00:56:17,120 --> 00:56:21,800
Okay next question what are your thoughts on the new rules that limit participation
750
00:56:21,800 --> 00:56:25,980
per country from a small climbing country perspective?
751
00:56:25,980 --> 00:56:32,400
Do you feel like limiting the participation of developed teams helps smaller nations?
752
00:56:32,400 --> 00:56:36,040
That's a pretty hard one to answer.
753
00:56:36,040 --> 00:56:45,000
I feel like in the World Cup scene you do one the best of the best but at the same time
754
00:56:45,000 --> 00:56:54,180
you also do one representative from other countries so it's hard to say like having
755
00:56:54,180 --> 00:57:01,480
only two spots for like Brazil and even Australia or like all the other South American countries
756
00:57:01,480 --> 00:57:08,080
and then having like 15 spots for our Japanese team when they are like hosting an event it
757
00:57:08,080 --> 00:57:16,480
feels a bit weird to have that big of a difference but they did earn those spots so it's hard
758
00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:17,680
to say.
759
00:57:17,680 --> 00:57:24,160
I feel like it should be like a three people it should be like a three-person quota for
760
00:57:24,160 --> 00:57:29,920
a country because most countries do it like top three internationals are liking the overall
761
00:57:29,920 --> 00:57:34,280
result like if you get a medal then you're on the team and you get to compete.
762
00:57:34,280 --> 00:57:40,600
I feel like that's how a lot of the countries do it and then having to like mix up two out
763
00:57:40,600 --> 00:57:47,880
of the three makes it pretty hard and when you're trying to get when you only get more
764
00:57:47,880 --> 00:57:53,480
spots if you're in the top 40 but then you only have two people competing and these people
765
00:57:53,480 --> 00:57:59,960
still have to take turns to go it's also a bit like hard to compare and also other countries
766
00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:05,040
in South America they won't have like we're pretty fortunate in here in Brazil to be able
767
00:58:05,040 --> 00:58:09,160
to go to like two or three World Cups a year but there are some countries who can only
768
00:58:09,160 --> 00:58:15,440
go to one and then it makes it impossible for them going to only one to be in the top
769
00:58:15,440 --> 00:58:22,680
40 whereas Japan has resources to send athletes to every single World Cup every year so at
770
00:58:22,680 --> 00:58:30,120
the same time that I understand that these countries have like a stronger climbing community
771
00:58:30,120 --> 00:58:35,680
like stronger athletes they also have so many more resources to be doing that.
772
00:58:35,680 --> 00:58:41,920
So I guess going forward do you feel like the participation changes will I guess like
773
00:58:41,920 --> 00:58:47,640
help the smaller countries make progress in their climbing?
774
00:58:47,640 --> 00:58:51,240
I don't think it's pretty hard to answer.
775
00:58:51,240 --> 00:58:57,600
I'm like I'm not sure if it's gonna help them because that's not gonna make them have more
776
00:58:57,600 --> 00:59:04,200
resources but I feel like it's gonna make it more fair and more equal to everyone having
777
00:59:04,200 --> 00:59:11,680
a bit less spots but what I feel like they could have done is like maybe still leave
778
00:59:11,680 --> 00:59:17,080
it up to maybe 10 spots for the countries who have a lot of athletes and then just up
779
00:59:17,080 --> 00:59:23,640
the number for countries who have less quota to three or four people because these countries
780
00:59:23,640 --> 00:59:29,000
won't even be able to send like three or four people but if there is an event then they
781
00:59:29,000 --> 00:59:34,680
can at least like choose whether or not they want to take three athletes or not.
782
00:59:34,680 --> 00:59:35,680
Yeah makes sense.
783
00:59:35,680 --> 00:59:37,680
What do you think?
784
00:59:37,680 --> 00:59:43,720
I actually really need to read up on the new quota changes.
785
00:59:43,720 --> 00:59:46,240
I don't actually know it off the top of my head.
786
00:59:46,240 --> 00:59:49,920
I've just seen like some discussion about it.
787
00:59:49,920 --> 00:59:54,120
I guess like for the people who are listening who maybe don't know about it do you want
788
00:59:54,120 --> 00:59:55,840
to give like a brief overview?
789
00:59:55,840 --> 01:00:03,600
Yeah so we've had in the past like three years when I started competing the minimum quota
790
01:00:03,600 --> 01:00:14,000
was three athletes per country and five for road champs I think and then recently it changed
791
01:00:14,000 --> 01:00:21,400
to only two athletes per country for road cups and three in road champs and for bigger
792
01:00:21,400 --> 01:00:28,360
countries like if you have anyone in the top 40 you gain an extra spot and people in the
793
01:00:28,360 --> 01:00:31,800
top 10 they gain a spot for themselves.
794
01:00:31,800 --> 01:00:36,840
So it's like if you get a spot between 20 and 40 it's a spot for the country.
795
01:00:36,840 --> 01:00:41,440
Doesn't necessarily need to be the person who earned that spot and if it's a top 10
796
01:00:41,440 --> 01:00:48,280
person then that person is already guaranteed on the circuit and so that's why Japan had
797
01:00:48,280 --> 01:00:52,920
so many people competing per event because they would always have like two athletes for
798
01:00:52,920 --> 01:01:02,160
the quota plus six or seven for the top 40 plus like two for being host country sometimes.
799
01:01:02,160 --> 01:01:08,080
So that's why the number would escalate so much and in order to reduce that such a big
800
01:01:08,080 --> 01:01:13,400
difference this year they limited the quota to even if you have people on the top 40 I
801
01:01:13,400 --> 01:01:17,800
think the limit is going to be five if I'm not wrong.
802
01:01:17,800 --> 01:01:23,920
Yeah I wasn't going to form any opinions on it until after I saw how it would play out
803
01:01:23,920 --> 01:01:31,800
in the season so yeah I think I'll have to wait and see what it feels like.
804
01:01:31,800 --> 01:01:38,560
Yeah it's like we also as an athlete I also want to be competing against the best of the
805
01:01:38,560 --> 01:01:45,920
best in the world so at the same time it's like we want to see all the Japanese crushing
806
01:01:45,920 --> 01:01:51,000
out there you know so it's a hard decision I feel like it wasn't an easy decision for
807
01:01:51,000 --> 01:01:53,160
the IFC to make.
808
01:01:53,160 --> 01:01:58,360
I guess yeah I kind of wondered how athletes felt this year when a lot of like the top
809
01:01:58,360 --> 01:02:03,880
athletes weren't competing in World Cups due to like preparing for the Olympics or maybe
810
01:02:03,880 --> 01:02:06,320
resting after the Olympics.
811
01:02:06,320 --> 01:02:10,760
I kind of always wondered how that felt because maybe they didn't really feel like they were
812
01:02:10,760 --> 01:02:15,080
competing against the best of the best anymore.
813
01:02:15,080 --> 01:02:20,640
So yeah I'm kind of wondering if maybe people will have a similar feeling given like the
814
01:02:20,640 --> 01:02:22,880
quota restrictions.
815
01:02:22,880 --> 01:02:24,960
Yeah I understand that.
816
01:02:24,960 --> 01:02:28,440
That's my cop out answer.
817
01:02:28,440 --> 01:02:34,760
Okay so last question what are the outdoor climbing projects in Brazil that you really
818
01:02:34,760 --> 01:02:36,120
want to get done?
819
01:02:36,120 --> 01:02:44,800
So we have Fortaleza that is like a V15 well maybe well now it got downgraded to V14 and
820
01:02:44,800 --> 01:02:47,040
recent years.
821
01:02:47,040 --> 01:02:51,920
It's the most iconic boulder here Felipe Camargo did the first attempt.
822
01:02:51,920 --> 01:02:57,800
That's definitely a boulder that I would love to send the next few years.
823
01:02:57,800 --> 01:03:04,000
Right now I'm focused on maybe getting a few first attempts done in São Vento do Sapucaí
824
01:03:04,000 --> 01:03:09,440
which is close to here and there's a V13 there that I really want to get my hands on it's
825
01:03:09,440 --> 01:03:12,840
called Setemtaitaus.
826
01:03:12,840 --> 01:03:21,600
And something that I didn't say earlier in the interview or posted it publicly is that
827
01:03:21,600 --> 01:03:25,320
I probably won't be competing in LEAD anymore.
828
01:03:25,320 --> 01:03:29,760
I'm gonna just focus on bouldering.
829
01:03:29,760 --> 01:03:38,000
I felt like having to mix both in the year like already feeling a bit behind from the
830
01:03:38,000 --> 01:03:42,800
other guys like wanting to be in semis and having to compete in both disciplines makes
831
01:03:42,800 --> 01:03:44,240
it way harder.
832
01:03:44,240 --> 01:03:48,760
So this year I made the tough decision of like of course I love LEAD climbing and I
833
01:03:48,760 --> 01:03:54,160
didn't want to stop competing for it but I feel like if I want to excel in one of them
834
01:03:54,160 --> 01:04:01,240
I needed to pick one and that also talks with how like the next Olympics is gonna be maybe
835
01:04:01,240 --> 01:04:07,540
they are gonna split it up so I'm really like trying to take an advantage before it actually
836
01:04:07,540 --> 01:04:08,540
announced.
837
01:04:08,540 --> 01:04:09,920
Yeah that totally makes sense.
838
01:04:09,920 --> 01:04:17,000
Do you think one day you'll want to I guess either add LEAD back in or maybe just like
839
01:04:17,000 --> 01:04:18,720
totally switch to LEAD?
840
01:04:18,720 --> 01:04:22,920
Yeah for sure.
841
01:04:22,920 --> 01:04:32,040
I do prefer LEAD climbing outdoors so when I'm climbing outdoors just like the feeling
842
01:04:32,040 --> 01:04:37,480
you get when you send a hard route it's like you just have to put so much more effort into
843
01:04:37,480 --> 01:04:45,080
it and it's like such a bigger fight sending a route than it is sending a boulder at least
844
01:04:45,080 --> 01:04:53,900
for me like the feeling I get is so much more fulfilling and for sure like I have so many
845
01:04:53,900 --> 01:05:00,400
routes that I want to take down in the next few years and what I thought was like with
846
01:05:00,400 --> 01:05:07,120
bouldering I am gonna get like so much stronger that when I go back into LEAD I just need
847
01:05:07,120 --> 01:05:12,720
to like get my endurance back get the like lead flow back going and I'm gonna be much
848
01:05:12,720 --> 01:05:18,000
stronger to send all the routes that I want to send right now and whereas if I was just
849
01:05:18,000 --> 01:05:23,560
focused in LEAD I feel like it would be harder to transition into like hard bouldering outdoors.
850
01:05:23,560 --> 01:05:25,120
Okay awesome.
851
01:05:25,120 --> 01:05:30,800
Well I think that is all the questions I had is there any like last words you want to get
852
01:05:30,800 --> 01:05:34,840
out there or words of wisdom you want to put out into the world?
853
01:05:34,840 --> 01:05:41,560
Well I guess I wanted to say to if there's any South American climbers who want to become
854
01:05:41,560 --> 01:05:47,640
athletes or who are already athletes it's like believe in yourselves because we can
855
01:05:47,640 --> 01:05:54,400
also do it we just need more belief in our hearts and to everyone else I just wanted
856
01:05:54,400 --> 01:05:59,840
to say like if you can come to Brazil come watch the World Cup it's gonna be a big event
857
01:05:59,840 --> 01:06:07,120
for us I'm sure it's gonna be a great event I'm so psyched and yeah come watch come visit
858
01:06:07,120 --> 01:06:12,040
Brazil if you guys want to just text me if you want to go rock climbing or just want
859
01:06:12,040 --> 01:06:17,520
to tour around I can give some tips I'm open for you guys to text.
860
01:06:17,520 --> 01:06:22,240
Okay super exciting yeah I can't wait for the World Cup in Brazil that'll be really
861
01:06:22,240 --> 01:06:27,160
exciting okay awesome I want to let people know where they can find you.
862
01:06:27,160 --> 01:06:35,960
I feel like the easiest would be my Instagram it's at Rodrigo dot Hanada with an H and yeah
863
01:06:35,960 --> 01:06:40,400
just direct me there and we can talk.
864
01:06:40,400 --> 01:06:44,560
Cool awesome I will leave the link in the description.
865
01:06:44,560 --> 01:06:48,880
Okay great well that's everything I had thank you so much for joining me today and it was
866
01:06:48,880 --> 01:06:50,400
amazing to talk to you.
867
01:06:50,400 --> 01:06:55,480
Yeah thank you so much for the invite it was really great talking to you Ginny and I hope
868
01:06:55,480 --> 01:07:02,400
climbing grows more and there's more podcasts like yours it was a great great experience
869
01:07:02,400 --> 01:07:03,400
thank you.
870
01:07:03,400 --> 01:07:08,080
Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast don't forget to like and subscribe
871
01:07:08,080 --> 01:07:13,720
if you enjoyed otherwise you are a super fake climber if you're listening on a podcasting
872
01:07:13,720 --> 01:07:18,560
platform I'd appreciate if you rate it five stars and you can continue the discussion
873
01:07:18,560 --> 01:07:31,520
on the free competition climbing discord linked in the description thanks again for listening.
