29: Sofya Yokoyama, Switzerland Boulderer & OG Youtuber
Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC
6:05 - Climbing + Competing start
7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent
10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?
15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick
19:55 - Slab is the enemy
22:10 - Being a short climber
26:08 - Training schedule
30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation
31:42 - Swiss athlete funding
35:23 - Money and YouTube
41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube
43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?
48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders
54:47 - Bulking & cutting?
1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene
1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai
1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!
1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s
1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall
1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name
1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?
1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya
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Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to see
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potential methods.
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I mean, this is only for like these next couple of years, but we might need to pay ourselves
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because the budget has been reduced.
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Around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much weight, it's
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going to affect your climbing.
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That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting on weight.
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I loved One Direction, loved them.
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And someone commented, Harry Styles was in One Direction?
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I was like, excuse me?
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How do you not know that?
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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.
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I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Sofya Yokoyama.
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Sofya is a boulder on Team Switzerland and she's part of the wave of OG climbing YouTubers.
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In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague.
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We get some insight into Team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues.
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And she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame
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it.
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So, I hope you enjoy this episode with Sofya.
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We'll start slowly into it.
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You just got back from Prague, so that's probably fresh in your mind.
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So any thoughts about how the Prague World Cup went?
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Yeah, no, so Prague was really fun.
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The semis round didn't really go as I had hoped.
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So I guess the general coming out of the comp was a bit frustrating, a bit sad.
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But now that I've had a couple of days to just reflect and think about it, now I'm like,
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okay, well, it's been a good season.
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I've had fun training and traveling with the team.
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It's been cool.
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And this has been the best season of my career.
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So it's a lot more positive than just unfortunately this bad semis.
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Well, you still have another chance to.
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Yep.
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Yep.
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I leave for Seoul tomorrow.
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Exciting.
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Yeah, the semis boulders looked really hard.
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Did you have an idea going into or not going into it, but while you were climbing that
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it was a low scoring round?
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Or did you kind of feel like you were the only one who was struggling and then it like
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kind of got in your head?
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Yeah, you can already kind of guess how the round is going when you're in ISO because
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you know, like if athletes come back early, then you're like, okay, this boulder they've
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done.
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And then if a lot of people are coming back early, then you're like, okay, so there's
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quite a lot of tops.
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And when I was in ISO, there weren't that many people coming back.
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So I was like, okay, this is a hard round, but just anything is possible.
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Just stay focused, try hard.
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And then unfortunately, when I got out onto the first boulder, I just had the wrong method.
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And I knew that this was possible and I knew that I could do it.
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So already the fact that I didn't, it was kind of like, okay, another three hard boulders
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to come.
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And so it's kind of hard to then tell yourself, okay, but I can do it.
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It's possible.
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Just stay focused and try as hard as you can on these boulders.
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So I feel like I did manage that quite well until after the third boulder where I didn't
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get the zone, I was like, okay, no one's doing the slab.
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So I think this is over anyways.
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Okay.
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So you kind of felt like defeated going into it after the first one a bit?
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Yeah, after the first boulder, I was like, this is not the great start to a semis round
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or semis I would have hoped.
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But things can still change.
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So for now, stay focused and stay in it.
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So do you kind of sneak a peek at how other people are doing on the climbs before or after
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you?
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Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to
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see potential methods.
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Since now they kind of spread the boulders out quite a bit, you can't really look too
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far ahead, but yeah, every now and then when I'm like resting between attempts on a boulder,
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I just like step back and look up into the side.
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Yeah, do you ever look like back at boulders you've done to see if other people are doing
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them or is that like too mentally terrible?
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Yeah, so usually I don't, but when I was on the second boulder in the semis round in Prague,
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my teammate was climbing on the first boulder.
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And so she was doing so well.
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So I was like looking at her and I'm like, come on, like getting like psyched for her
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at the same time.
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Like, oh, shoot, I need to focus on my boulder and climb on my boulder.
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But usually I can separate but since it was just my teammate and she was doing well, I
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was like, yes.
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So it was more excitement for her rather than, oh, that was how I was supposed to do it.
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I mean, there was also a bit of that.
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I'm like, oh, I just spent five minutes trying one method and if I had just changed hands,
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things could have gone differently, but yeah.
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Okay.
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Well, I hope that soul goes well for you.
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It's still great that you made semis again.
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That's it.
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Yeah.
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Very consistent in that, which is good.
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Yeah.
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I think the years before, at least consistency is here this year.
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Yeah.
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Consistency is great.
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Okay.
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So let's get into how you started climbing and competing.
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Yeah.
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So I started when I was around seven.
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My parents always were like, oh yeah, maybe either if you want to do a sport or an instrument,
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but they always wanted me and my brother to have another activity besides school.
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And so I was trying many different sports when I was younger and it was really climbing
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that for some reason stuck and I enjoyed it the most.
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And so it got a bit more serious when I came back to Switzerland.
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I joined the competition team and then just gradually started training a bit more and
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did more comps, joined the Swiss team and still doing it now.
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When was your first competition, if you remember?
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Officially, it was when I was living in Singapore.
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Oh, I didn't know you were living in Singapore.
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Yeah.
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I lived there between nine and 12.
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Wow.
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Yeah.
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I had three years in Singapore and at school they had like this crazy cool climbing wall
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and the coach there, he was like, oh, you should do comps.
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There's some cool fun comps in Singapore going on.
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And so that's where I started.
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And then I was, yeah, I think I was like, yeah, 10, 11-ish.
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It was just for fun at that time.
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But it was when I came back to Switzerland where it got more serious and I joined the
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national team and did national comps, international comps.
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Cool.
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Well, I mean, we've got some Singapore viewers and I had also just interviewed a couple other
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people from Singapore.
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Oh, cool.
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So I'm sure they'll be glad to know that.
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So you moved around like a bunch then, I guess.
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Yeah.
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I've moved quite a bit.
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Was there anywhere else that you had lived?
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I was also in England for a couple of years.
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I didn't compete.
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I mean, I was born in Switzerland and then around three I moved to England, so I wasn't
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climbing at that time.
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And then came back to Switzerland, but in the French pot and then moved to Singapore
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and then came back to Switzerland since.
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But there was a phase, I think when I got back to Switzerland around 14, 15, where I
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was like doing comps in England and in Switzerland to see which national team I could join.
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Oh, really?
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But yeah, since I was living in Switzerland, I ended up staying with the Swiss team.
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Okay.
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So you were like trying out for, or I guess it's not tryouts, but maybe like trials or
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something like that to join a national team?
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Yeah, I think you do the national comps and then depending on your results, you get a
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team offer.
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Okay.
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So the Switzerland one came first.
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Yeah.
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So yeah, you moved around a bunch.
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So I know you mentioned people always wonder where your accent is from.
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Is that how it came about?
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It's just a mix of a bunch of different places.
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Yeah.
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When I was younger, I had my mum's British accent.
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But then, yeah, with moving around so much, there was a phase where I just had a full-on
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American accent.
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And now, yeah, I don't know, it just switched so much.
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And then now it kind of went back to just normal British, but then with also some American
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towns.
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In Singapore, it was the French school, but it was international.
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So a lot of it was like American.
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And that's where the American accent came out.
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So I think it was just hanging around with a lot of American English speakers.
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And I got influenced.
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Yeah, makes sense.
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No, I recently learned I got fed a bunch of TikToks that was like, oh, there's an international
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school accent.
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So I was wondering if that's kind of what it was.
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But maybe it's a little different.
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Yeah, I think it's more like the people who I'm hanging out with.
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Our coach on the Swiss team is Australian, and we hang out with Oceana Mackenzie a lot.
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So sometimes I feel like I've got an Australian wang to real world.
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Yeah, sometimes I'm worried when I talk to someone with an accent that I'll start imitating
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them but in like, not a cool way.
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Yeah, I don't know why it switches.
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Yeah, thankfully it doesn't happen to me too much.
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So I think I saw you post, I forget if it was like a story or a post, but it looks like
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you've been doing a little bit more lead lately.
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Why did you not get into it before?
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And why are you doing it now?
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So yeah, I guess the big question two years ago was to try for the Olympics and whether
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I wanted to focus also on the lead discipline, considering that like my main and favorite
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discipline is bouldering.
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And I had like a long talk with the coaches.
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And since my, at least last year, my bouldering was really not at the level I wanted it to
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be at.
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If I like taking some of my bordering energy, moving it into lead and losing like a bit
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more focus on like losing that bordering focus to put onto lead, it, yeah, I wouldn't have
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progressed as much in bouldering and then I might not have even gotten that good in lead.
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So it would have been like a lot of training, a lot of trying mix match, see what works
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best and potentially not like gaining in anything.
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So the final conclusion was like, okay, I'm just going to focus this year on bordering,
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really to get as strong as I can.
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Especially like now you need to be so good in bordering and lead to just like get a decent
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ish result, so I'm happy I stuck to my like focus on bordering decision.
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But yeah, recently we had the Swiss lead cup and in our Swiss contract, we need to participate
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in two disciplines, even though I'm just a boarder.
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And so I was like, okay, well, I'm home.
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There's a lead comp this weekend.
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May as well go for it.
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And it went so well.
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Like honestly, I don't think I've climbed that good in lead my whole life.
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And so I was like, you know, maybe I will come back doing some lead.
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Who knows?
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Okay.
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Well, I mean, as far as like the Olympics, I guess they might split it out.
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So do you want to just do lead comps or like, this is still like an Olympic hopeful kind
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of thing?
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I guess in LA they don't split it.
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I will probably try now that I saw lead didn't go too bad.
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But if they do split it, I don't think I'll really focus on lead.
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Yeah, that makes sense.
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Yeah, I think I'll just do bordering unless like I have maybe an outdoor lead project,
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but there's enough bordering projects I have to focus on before going to lead.
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Why do you think you did well in lead?
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Like you weren't training it at all?
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No, so I have a really good theory.
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I remember when I was training lead, I was like, yeah, I was focused.
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I knew I was training lead.
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I knew that I could do well.
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And I guess the stress of the comp, I couldn't really handle it as well because I'm like,
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there's only one attempt.
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I need to climb perfectly.
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I need to really focus and like there were a lot of things that I was thinking of for
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it to go well.
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And now this comp, I was like, okay, look, I haven't done lead in a long time.
228
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I feel great in bordering.
229
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I guess the moves in lead aren't as hard.
230
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So I could technically do all the moves on the lead wall.
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And so all I need to do since I don't have endurance is climb fast and efficiently.
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And so I was like, okay, well, let's see how fast I can climb.
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And I was just like really in a chill mood, here to have fun, confident in my bordering
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skills that I could like hold all the holds and do all the moves.
235
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So then all I just needed to do was hold on long enough to get as high as possible.
236
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Yeah, I hear a lot of boulders do that.
237
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Just like go up as fast as they can.
238
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Not even rest really.
239
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Yeah, like there's no point of me really shaking out because my other arm gets pumped anyways.
240
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So I'm just like, okay, talk.
241
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Okay, fast talk.
242
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Okay, fast talk.
243
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:31,440
I don't know if that'll work when you actually want to get into lead competitions, but.
244
00:15:31,440 --> 00:15:33,240
I received a lot of messages afterwards.
245
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It's like, it's just the first comp always goes well.
246
00:15:37,880 --> 00:15:41,720
And then once you start training it, it's downhill from there.
247
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:46,720
I feel like there's also a lot of, so like I've talked to a few people now.
248
00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:48,360
I've interviewed like a few athletes.
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00:15:48,360 --> 00:15:54,640
It seems like a lot of times they have like a great comp and they say it's because they
250
00:15:54,640 --> 00:15:57,640
went in with no expectations.
251
00:15:57,640 --> 00:15:59,720
And then I guess they had a good result.
252
00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:02,800
And so then it's like in their head about it.
253
00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:06,600
And then it just goes downhill from there.
254
00:16:06,600 --> 00:16:09,000
Do you feel like that's kind of the case?
255
00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:16,520
Yeah, there's many times when I've been sick before a comp or like I got a cold and I wasn't
256
00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:18,800
necessarily feeling in the best shape.
257
00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:24,720
And then like this was national level and then I came out winning the comp or doing
258
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like a really good result and climbing great.
259
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:33,440
And I think it's yeah, heading into the competition where you're like, okay, there's no expectations
260
00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:34,440
here.
261
00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,960
I've been sick the past week.
262
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,760
It's just really to go out and climb as good as I can.
263
00:16:39,760 --> 00:16:41,840
And that's it.
264
00:16:41,840 --> 00:16:46,960
But yeah, once you start getting the results and you're like, okay, I can do this.
265
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It goes well.
266
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:53,680
That's when in your head, it's like, it's not like I can do this, but it's like, I have
267
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to do this.
268
00:16:56,200 --> 00:17:03,600
And the like that switch in I can to I have where like you're, you have to force yourself
269
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to do something.
270
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And then when it's a bit of a downhill drop.
271
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Yeah.
272
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How do you?
273
00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:10,520
I don't know.
274
00:17:10,520 --> 00:17:16,480
How do you like artificially create a lack of expectations?
275
00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:23,840
So what I've been doing recently or like this past year is more like not necessarily having
276
00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:31,920
like lowering my expectations, but just like it's so hard to explain.
277
00:17:31,920 --> 00:17:37,680
Like heading into the comp, I guess, partly feeling confident in the training that you've
278
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done.
279
00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:45,160
And at the same time, like Prague, Prague, I guess, is one of the conflict didn't go
280
00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:47,680
as well because for me, I was like heading into Prague.
281
00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:54,640
I'm like, okay, I can definitely make finals.
282
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But in my head is like, okay, I'm here to make finals.
283
00:17:57,840 --> 00:18:01,960
And it's not like I was already thinking of the next step instead of like staying in semis
284
00:18:01,960 --> 00:18:04,320
like, okay, I'm in semis now.
285
00:18:04,320 --> 00:18:06,280
Let's focus on each border one at a time.
286
00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,880
I was like, okay, finals is doable.
287
00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:09,880
I can get into this.
288
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I can do this.
289
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:12,080
Sometimes it through some people.
290
00:18:12,080 --> 00:18:13,080
It does work.
291
00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:18,920
But for me, I think it was more like, ah, okay, since I screwed up the first border,
292
00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:21,280
I'm like, ah, that's it.
293
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Like my round is over.
294
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:23,280
Okay.
295
00:18:23,280 --> 00:18:24,760
Even though you don't know what's going to happen.
296
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:25,760
Yeah.
297
00:18:25,760 --> 00:18:33,320
So I guess for Seoul, I'm just going to like qualities have been going well.
298
00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:38,200
So I just go into qualities, climb hard.
299
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:43,320
There's a few things that I like think of, like, try to think of new methods, try new
300
00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:44,320
things.
301
00:18:44,320 --> 00:18:50,060
Don't be scared to like do crazy stuff.
302
00:18:50,060 --> 00:18:53,200
And try to just continue in that path with semis.
303
00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:55,680
Yeah, I think that makes sense.
304
00:18:55,680 --> 00:19:02,000
So kind of like not really going into it with a specific goal, maybe to like make finals
305
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:03,800
or semis.
306
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:09,520
Not focused too much on results, but more focused on like small things that you can
307
00:19:09,520 --> 00:19:10,520
work on.
308
00:19:10,520 --> 00:19:17,040
So like for me, it's trying new things in borders instead of like trying one method.
309
00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:20,800
If you're hesitating on another method, just try it.
310
00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:27,480
Also like, of course, try hard because yeah, the borders aren't easy.
311
00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:29,080
So you need to like commit.
312
00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:34,520
And usually my first attempts are a bit like, I'm just going to climb and see how it feels.
313
00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:41,040
So here it's more like first attempt, it's send or change method.
314
00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:50,760
And then also for me, it's like I get very, not anxious, but like wanting to give a lot
315
00:19:50,760 --> 00:19:52,160
of attempts and try a lot of things.
316
00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:57,320
So it's more like patience, breathe, especially on slabs.
317
00:19:57,320 --> 00:19:59,560
Do you dislike slabs?
318
00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:02,560
Slabs dislike me.
319
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:06,380
Okay, gotcha.
320
00:20:06,380 --> 00:20:11,320
I really try to like slabs, but I can never, no, not never, because I have sent slabs and
321
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:18,400
cons, but I just as even, I train them and I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere compared
322
00:20:18,400 --> 00:20:22,680
to like if I train strength, I can do a one on pull ups.
323
00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:28,160
I can see I'm progressing, but on slabs, you can train slabs as much as you like, but foot
324
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:31,840
slip, can't do this, can't do that.
325
00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:34,440
Have you done the thing?
326
00:20:34,440 --> 00:20:37,680
Well, so I was also really bad at slab.
327
00:20:37,680 --> 00:20:43,160
I mean, I'm certainly still like not great at slab, especially compared to like pro athletes.
328
00:20:43,160 --> 00:20:48,680
But the one thing that actually worked for me that I thought was like some woo woo bullshit
329
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:55,480
was like before getting on the slab, instead of saying I'm bad at slab, I would just be
330
00:20:55,480 --> 00:20:58,440
like, I'm really good at slab, I can do this.
331
00:20:58,440 --> 00:21:00,440
And then it actually kept working.
332
00:21:00,440 --> 00:21:04,960
And so I was like, oh, maybe this works.
333
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:11,160
So then I try to do that when I do slab, but it helped for me, I think.
334
00:21:11,160 --> 00:21:16,640
Yeah, I think there's a lot of like trying to gaslight yourself.
335
00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:17,640
Yeah.
336
00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:22,320
Like, yeah, that's something where, and I definitely feel it if I go into an overhang
337
00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:26,820
border, I'm like, confident, I'm like, I'm gonna send this.
338
00:21:26,820 --> 00:21:32,200
And then when you go to the slab, it's like, okay, it's a slab, I gotta be careful, I gotta
339
00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:35,360
think I gotta, and I think it's yeah, trying to erase those thoughts.
340
00:21:35,360 --> 00:21:38,000
It's like, okay, now, this is a slab, I can do a slab.
341
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:40,480
It's the same thing for me with toe hooks.
342
00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,480
Yeah.
343
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:42,480
Yeah.
344
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:44,600
I'm not great at toe hooks.
345
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:48,920
And so every time I see a toe hook, there's like that toe hooks, but now I'm trying to
346
00:21:48,920 --> 00:21:52,280
be like, ah, toe hooks, dang.
347
00:21:52,280 --> 00:21:53,280
Yeah.
348
00:21:53,280 --> 00:21:54,280
Has it helped at all?
349
00:21:54,280 --> 00:21:55,280
No, not really.
350
00:21:55,280 --> 00:21:56,280
Okay.
351
00:21:56,280 --> 00:22:03,040
But I will continue, I will continue trying, especially if you send you feel it, I will.
352
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:04,040
There's hope.
353
00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:06,040
Yeah, it worked for me.
354
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:11,800
Maybe I just got lucky, but I'm not gonna think about it until next time.
355
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:16,720
So being one of the shorter athletes, do you feel like it hinders you during World Cups
356
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:18,280
or does it help?
357
00:22:18,280 --> 00:22:24,200
Yes, this is a big discussion, especially I've been seeing a few like videos after
358
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,440
the Olympics on iMori.
359
00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:30,080
Yeah, there's a lot.
360
00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:36,600
I think, so I'm like 156, 157, something like that.
361
00:22:36,600 --> 00:22:44,920
So I am like one of the shorter climbers on the circuit, but I do try to take a step back
362
00:22:44,920 --> 00:22:49,720
and be like, okay, yes, if I was maybe five, 10 centimeters taller, this move could be
363
00:22:49,720 --> 00:22:51,280
easier.
364
00:22:51,280 --> 00:22:59,400
But powerful movements, you can work on explosivity, crimps, you can work on finger strength.
365
00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:04,820
You just have to unfortunately be that much stronger than the other climbers.
366
00:23:04,820 --> 00:23:09,800
So I always try to take a step back and be like, okay, well, if I'm short, then I can
367
00:23:09,800 --> 00:23:16,320
compensate by being so much stronger in these areas.
368
00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:21,960
And yes, that's what I've been working on, like finger strength, explosivity, power,
369
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:29,640
like all those things I can work on because unfortunately height, I can't grow anymore.
370
00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:34,600
Do you ever come across a move where you're like, oh, my height really helps me here?
371
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:41,880
Yes, a lot of like, it doesn't happen often, but a lot of like tight, box, small, uncomfortable
372
00:23:41,880 --> 00:23:49,680
moves. For me, being short is great because I can just like get in there and be like,
373
00:23:49,680 --> 00:23:51,280
I'm so comfortable.
374
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:55,440
And then you have my teammates who are a bit taller and they're like, oh, this was really
375
00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:59,840
tight and I couldn't feel good. And I was like, I feel great.
376
00:23:59,840 --> 00:24:01,240
Okay, perfect.
377
00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:10,120
But on the comp circuit, it's rare or like there are sometimes moves like those, but
378
00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:14,480
it's more rare than seeing moves where it's like, okay, if I was a bit taller, that would
379
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:16,600
have been easier.
380
00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:21,920
Because of just like, is it usually the coordination stuff or like the dinos that you feel like
381
00:24:21,920 --> 00:24:22,920
you're too short?
382
00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:29,880
Yeah, a lot of it is coordination. But I think now, like if it's straight up coordination,
383
00:24:29,880 --> 00:24:37,580
for sure. Like every time I see a straight up jump, I'm like, they have enough experience
384
00:24:37,580 --> 00:24:43,800
to set something other than straight up. But sometimes it's also like, when there's toe
385
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:49,440
hooks, it's usually like really stretched out positions. And so since toe hooks aren't
386
00:24:49,440 --> 00:24:55,600
my strong suit, I'm also like, if I was just a bit taller, my toe hook would fit in there
387
00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:01,480
so much better. Yeah, so it really depends. But a lot of it is more like, yeah, coordination
388
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:03,400
and usually toe hooks.
389
00:25:03,400 --> 00:25:09,400
Well, so I feel like I have the opposite issue with toe hooks. So I'm like, if I'm shorter,
390
00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:15,120
then my leg would just be straight and it would be fine and I would reach or not reach.
391
00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:22,400
But like, I wouldn't have to like, twist myself in such a weird way to like, hold the toe
392
00:25:22,400 --> 00:25:23,400
hook.
393
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:29,400
Yeah, that for sure. Like there's some point sometimes where if you have a toes close,
394
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:36,720
this toe hook shorter is for sure better. But for me, it's usually like getting into
395
00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:40,920
the toe hook position. Like you usually have to like kind of jump in and then that it's
396
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,640
always like, I'm always limit, like my foot always arrives at the very tip of my toe hook.
397
00:25:45,640 --> 00:25:49,960
And I'm like, I have to squeeze so hard to be able to get the second one and then I have
398
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:54,760
to like be able to get it a bit higher. And so there's like 20 seconds of work before
399
00:25:54,760 --> 00:26:00,920
actually getting into the stop position, which is kind of that point for me. But yeah, if
400
00:26:00,920 --> 00:26:03,360
the toe hook is close, I'm like, easy.
401
00:26:03,360 --> 00:26:09,200
Okay. Well, we can all just agree that toe hooks are really bad and you can hate them.
402
00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:15,520
Okay. So what does your training look like at the moment? Or I guess not at the moment
403
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,800
because you're in competition season, but last competition or last training season or
404
00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:22,320
like upcoming?
405
00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:33,680
So during the like winter phase, pre-comp pre-season, it's quite, there's a lot going
406
00:26:33,680 --> 00:26:40,600
on. So we kind of like with my coach, we kind of focus on all the things that not necessarily
407
00:26:40,600 --> 00:26:46,420
went wrong in the comp season, but that could go better and how to work on those things.
408
00:26:46,420 --> 00:26:51,560
So if it's yeah, toe hooks, then there's going to be toe hook training, but it's going to
409
00:26:51,560 --> 00:26:56,160
be like, okay, there's going to be more fitness training, maybe some more finger strength
410
00:26:56,160 --> 00:27:01,480
training because I feel like my finger strength could be better. There's also going to be
411
00:27:01,480 --> 00:27:09,200
some like climbing exercises on the wall for like body tension. Also for just like, yeah,
412
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:16,320
just physical wall exercises. There's a lot going on, a lot of intense stuff. I think
413
00:27:16,320 --> 00:27:22,560
I like climb, yeah, four or five times a week with two gym sessions and two fingerboard
414
00:27:22,560 --> 00:27:31,640
sessions, a bit of camp sing, some hard boulders, some comp boulders, some wall training.
415
00:27:31,640 --> 00:27:37,000
And is this all by yourself or do you train with the Switzerland team much?
416
00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:44,720
So right now I'm between Austria and Switzerland because my boyfriend, he's on the Austrian
417
00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:52,000
team. So I'm in Innsbruck a lot training with them. And then I also, when I head home,
418
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:57,800
also like train with the Swiss team. So I'm rarely ever alone.
419
00:27:57,800 --> 00:28:04,240
And so like when you're training with teams, is it like a specified thing where they're
420
00:28:04,240 --> 00:28:08,600
like, we want everyone to be together and we all want to train together or is it just
421
00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:14,760
like since you know them, you're friends with them, they like climb at a similar level,
422
00:28:14,760 --> 00:28:16,520
then you just train together.
423
00:28:16,520 --> 00:28:23,680
Yeah. So for the Austrian team, it's like, I really had to, usually it's like the Austrian
424
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:29,560
team, they train together and they have like these training days. And so I like with my
425
00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:34,080
coach, we like asked them if it was okay if I like train with them, if I joined their
426
00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:39,680
team sessions and all of that. Cause usually they close like the training room for when
427
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:44,720
they have team sessions. But since I also knew like a lot of the female athletes on
428
00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:52,320
the Austrian team, they were all like welcoming and motivated for me to join. And they were
429
00:28:52,320 --> 00:28:58,480
like, yeah, it'll be great if so if you train with us, we'd love it. And so, yeah, it was
430
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:03,720
a bit of both. It was me knowing a lot of the athletes on the team and asking if it's
431
00:29:03,720 --> 00:29:09,640
okay if I joined, but at the same time they have these times where they train all together.
432
00:29:09,640 --> 00:29:15,520
It's like kind of not secretive, but like closed off because it's like secret national
433
00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:22,160
team things. Yeah. Yeah. But interesting. Like for our team center, like I guess the
434
00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:29,920
difference is that our team's training center isn't in a public gym. So no one really, other
435
00:29:29,920 --> 00:29:36,080
teams don't really know much about it, where it is, when our team sessions are and stuff
436
00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:40,480
compared to the Austrian team where their team training center isn't the biggest gym
437
00:29:40,480 --> 00:29:46,760
in the world. So for us it's okay, well, if someone does want to join, they have to know
438
00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:55,640
someone in the team and ask. And then we send them the address and then they can join. But
439
00:29:55,640 --> 00:29:59,360
it's also like, yeah, on Mondays we have team training from this time to this time. Let
440
00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:05,000
me know if you want to join and if you can or not. And it's like that three, four times
441
00:30:05,000 --> 00:30:06,000
a week.
442
00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:11,000
How do you feel like the Switzerland team has transformed throughout the years?
443
00:30:11,000 --> 00:30:16,200
So there's been a huge transformation and very much on the positive side. Before our
444
00:30:16,200 --> 00:30:24,400
team training center, I don't know how old our training center is. I think maybe four
445
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:32,040
years now. But before that, maybe it's older, I don't really remember. But before that everyone
446
00:30:32,040 --> 00:30:37,820
was kind of just like training in different areas in Switzerland. And we'd only ever see
447
00:30:37,820 --> 00:30:44,720
each other when we'd like travel to comps and it comes together. So we weren't as close.
448
00:30:44,720 --> 00:30:51,840
Like yeah, I didn't really know everyone as well. I just saw them at the comps and we'd
449
00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:58,000
just hang out because we were kind of just there. But with the team training center coming
450
00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:05,400
into place and the team organizing team sessions and everyone going there weekly, we kind of
451
00:31:05,400 --> 00:31:15,920
got closer and now it feels much more like a family than just colleagues. And so yeah,
452
00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:20,560
there's been a lot of growth on that side. And I feel like if you have a good environment
453
00:31:20,560 --> 00:31:26,720
with the team, then also comps and training is they just go better in general.
454
00:31:26,720 --> 00:31:31,720
Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah, it seems like having a national training center helps a
455
00:31:31,720 --> 00:31:37,240
lot. And then just having like other strong climbers around to like motivate you helps
456
00:31:37,240 --> 00:31:44,800
a lot. Yeah. Yeah. Climbing with stronger climbers is always as you can do. Yeah, I
457
00:31:44,800 --> 00:31:51,800
agree with that. And yeah, I guess another thing that helps, I know a lot of climbers
458
00:31:51,800 --> 00:31:57,060
on the circuit need to take on other jobs to fund their climbing. Does Switzerland give
459
00:31:57,060 --> 00:32:01,880
athletes a stipend? Please excuse this brief intermission, but if you're interested in
460
00:32:01,880 --> 00:32:07,140
deleted scenes from this episode where we talk about the difference between making semis
461
00:32:07,140 --> 00:32:12,880
versus finals, and what her hopes were going into the Seoul World Cup before she unfortunately
462
00:32:12,880 --> 00:32:19,320
had to cancel her trip, do consider helping support this podcast on Patreon. Some other
463
00:32:19,320 --> 00:32:25,440
perks include a membership pin shipped to you, prioritized guest questions, or the ability
464
00:32:25,440 --> 00:32:31,000
to submit video questions and much more to come. The proceeds go back into the podcast
465
00:32:31,000 --> 00:32:36,760
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466
00:32:36,760 --> 00:32:42,400
to help out non-monetarily, liking, commenting and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back
467
00:32:42,400 --> 00:32:43,400
to the show.
468
00:32:43,400 --> 00:32:51,680
Yeah, so we quite lucky that if we're selected for the comps, the hotel and the flights are
469
00:32:51,680 --> 00:33:04,360
financed. We just have to pay for food once we're at the comp, which I mean, is fine for
470
00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:08,200
me if my flight and hotel is fully paid for.
471
00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:14,760
So you don't get like, general stipend at all? Because I think like some countries do, but
472
00:33:14,760 --> 00:33:15,760
some countries don't.
473
00:33:15,760 --> 00:33:20,960
No, yeah, no, for us it's just if you're selected for the comp, we pay the hotel and the flights
474
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:30,800
and like that's it. Yeah, no, unfortunately not. But yeah, now some comps depending also
475
00:33:30,800 --> 00:33:36,160
on our team's budget, we might need to, I mean, this is only for like these next couple
476
00:33:36,160 --> 00:33:40,160
of years, but we might need to pay ourselves because the budget has been reduced.
477
00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,160
Oh, yeah, World Champs.
478
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:45,160
World Champs.
479
00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:48,160
Oh, dang, really?
480
00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:56,160
Yeah, there's something wrong with the calculations of the money spent and it kind of...
481
00:33:56,160 --> 00:34:05,160
What? Wow. So they wanted to host World Champs, but then they came out of the athlete budget?
482
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:10,880
No, so they wanted to host World Champs, which went great and everything. It's just that
483
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:18,080
the budget they had was overspent. So now to pay back the money that was overspent,
484
00:34:18,080 --> 00:34:25,120
they need to like reduce costs in different areas of the whole team. And like they've
485
00:34:25,120 --> 00:34:31,480
tried to reduce as much as they could outside of just like athletes. But now the tiny little
486
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:36,480
amount left is just, okay, unfortunately, we can't send everyone to this comp. So you
487
00:34:36,480 --> 00:34:39,480
guys have to finance yourself.
488
00:34:39,480 --> 00:34:44,480
Dang. So that's for like the next couple of years?
489
00:34:44,480 --> 00:34:47,480
Yeah. Next, I think it's over four years.
490
00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:56,360
Oh my gosh. Wow. So do you know if that impacts you, like you won't get your flights and
491
00:34:56,360 --> 00:34:58,520
accommodation paid for anymore?
492
00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,480
So this whole season, everything was paid for except for Seoul. So for me going to Seoul,
493
00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:07,320
I paid my flights and hotel, but I already knew that in advance. So I kind of already
494
00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:14,760
anticipated, okay, so this is the amount that I'd need for Seoul and for me to go. So it
495
00:35:14,760 --> 00:35:18,280
wasn't that much of a problem. I think I'm not exactly sure how it's going to be for
496
00:35:18,280 --> 00:35:23,280
next year. We'll see.
497
00:35:23,280 --> 00:35:30,000
Okay. So then, I mean, I know you have like your YouTube channel pretty big on that. Do
498
00:35:30,000 --> 00:35:36,280
you need to take on like other jobs to fund your climbing or do you have like other methods?
499
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:42,800
Yeah. So YouTube, I'm trying to stay a bit more consistent in YouTube and trying to like
500
00:35:42,800 --> 00:35:48,800
get some money off of that. But it's so up and down. Like if I take a little break, the
501
00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:55,920
views just go down so bad. And so right now the income from YouTube is quite low. I was
502
00:35:55,920 --> 00:36:06,960
also very lucky to get like national funding from like, if you get certain results in Switzerland,
503
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:11,160
you get this like Olympic card and then you get like national funding. You get like a
504
00:36:11,160 --> 00:36:18,440
certain amount of money per year. So I got that for like five or six years. And last
505
00:36:18,440 --> 00:36:23,160
year was my last year. So I was able to save quite a bit of money from that because I didn't
506
00:36:23,160 --> 00:36:31,440
spend that much. So right now I'm just kind of on my savings from all of that money. Yeah.
507
00:36:31,440 --> 00:36:38,680
And when I have a few like potential ideas, so like YouTube, but then also like maybe
508
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:46,160
doing some training plans that people could like subscribe to monthly and they'd like
509
00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:54,000
have access to some training plans that I'd put in place. And otherwise, I guess there's
510
00:36:54,000 --> 00:37:00,760
also all this side of like trying to find sponsors. But I think I'd prefer to just like
511
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:10,160
work on like training plans and count on myself than other people. No, yeah. It's stressful.
512
00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:18,040
But yeah, I'm still like, yeah, looking for sponsors who could help financially, but also
513
00:37:18,040 --> 00:37:24,200
like a brand that I like and enjoy so materially can also be beneficial. If you come out with
514
00:37:24,200 --> 00:37:30,560
training plans, let me know. I'll share it. I'll add in the description. Oh, thank you.
515
00:37:30,560 --> 00:37:35,640
I mean, have you ever considered like coaching or maybe that would be part of the training
516
00:37:35,640 --> 00:37:43,600
plan? Yeah. So I used to work in a climbing gym when I was not moving around as much.
517
00:37:43,600 --> 00:37:47,440
So when I was at university and I was like always in the same spot, I worked at a climbing
518
00:37:47,440 --> 00:37:54,720
gym and gave like courses to kids and to adults. But the reason why like I kind of moved to
519
00:37:54,720 --> 00:38:01,320
like creating training plans on an app is because there isn't that like I can do it
520
00:38:01,320 --> 00:38:06,920
wherever I am in the world compared to if I want to work in a gym and do like one-on-one
521
00:38:06,920 --> 00:38:12,400
coaching or like courses, I need to be in certain places on certain days. And so that
522
00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:19,880
also is a bit like more restrictive. If like, yeah, next week I want to go to Fontainebleau
523
00:38:19,880 --> 00:38:27,680
and climb outside or do a trip to the States and yeah. So is there like already a specific
524
00:38:27,680 --> 00:38:32,760
one in mind or just something you can reveal yet? Okay.
525
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:37,960
Well, the thing is, no, well, technically everything is in place. Like I do have the
526
00:38:37,960 --> 00:38:47,320
app is called Tribe and it's just that nothing is on it right now and I don't have and like
527
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:51,840
when it's done, I'll have like a link that people could like click on and then it brings
528
00:38:51,840 --> 00:38:58,920
them to like my page. But for now, I'm still like in the process of writing down all the
529
00:38:58,920 --> 00:39:02,000
training plans, filming everything and putting it online.
530
00:39:02,000 --> 00:39:03,000
Gotcha.
531
00:39:03,000 --> 00:39:08,840
But I don't know how long that will take. I'm a bit slow. So that's why I'm still like
532
00:39:08,840 --> 00:39:13,320
potentially maybe in like a couple months.
533
00:39:13,320 --> 00:39:21,960
Well, we'll see. I'm excited to see it come out. It is really like now that I'm like semi
534
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:29,200
in it, I do understand the whole like there's no money in climbing thing. Because like I
535
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:38,820
used to do some like fashion Instagram blogging and it was small. Like I had a very small
536
00:39:38,820 --> 00:39:46,640
like following and like no one gave a shit. But even then, there was still way more money
537
00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:48,320
in it than like climbing.
538
00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:56,760
That's crazy. That. Yeah, it's I mean, that's really cool that it worked for you. And then
539
00:39:56,760 --> 00:40:00,720
unfortunately you came into a non money sport.
540
00:40:00,720 --> 00:40:06,360
Yeah, unfortunately, I started doing this and then I feel like people care about it.
541
00:40:06,360 --> 00:40:11,280
Yeah, I like it more and more people care about it. But there's just like no there's
542
00:40:11,280 --> 00:40:15,080
no opportunities, no brands.
543
00:40:15,080 --> 00:40:22,480
Yeah and it's like I've always been told to try to like go with brands who aren't in climbing.
544
00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:30,200
But then those brands aren't necessarily interested in climbing either. So it's like I can only
545
00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:34,520
really go to climbing brands and then yeah, everyone all climbers are in these climbing
546
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:35,520
brands.
547
00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:36,520
Same people, same brands.
548
00:40:36,520 --> 00:40:40,080
Same people. Yeah, so it's like
549
00:40:40,080 --> 00:40:44,800
Back in fashion, it was just like they'll just give you money to or they'll like give
550
00:40:44,800 --> 00:40:49,940
you free stuff. And it's so easy. There's so many.
551
00:40:49,940 --> 00:40:57,800
I think also that there's been a long mentality in climbing where you don't need much. So
552
00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:03,000
like all you need are like climbing shoes and a tool bag and then you can maybe get
553
00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:08,360
your car and just drive and like live in your car and all of that. So I think a lot of athletes
554
00:41:08,360 --> 00:41:14,880
back in the days also lived off free stuff. Just receiving like free shoes and now with
555
00:41:14,880 --> 00:41:22,720
like social media coming up and athletes kind of knowing their worth. Like if a brand comes
556
00:41:22,720 --> 00:41:26,960
to you and like, oh, we'll give you free stuff if you post this, you're like, no, pay me.
557
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:32,200
And then they're like, oh, we don't have budget. I'm like, well, okay.
558
00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:35,400
You're just expected to live off the nature, I guess.
559
00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:41,040
Yeah, which yeah, unfortunately climbing shoes won't pay my rent.
560
00:41:41,040 --> 00:41:49,400
That's the issue. But I mean, I guess so like YouTube should help a little bit, but it is
561
00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:54,760
a lot of work to put out YouTube videos. So how do you balance YouTube and your competition
562
00:41:54,760 --> 00:41:56,600
schedule?
563
00:41:56,600 --> 00:42:05,720
So how I usually do it is like, so now during like the off season, I organize with my friend
564
00:42:05,720 --> 00:42:12,480
of mine who he's a videographer. We like get certain days and then on those days we like
565
00:42:12,480 --> 00:42:17,640
do a whole day of filming. We try to like film four videos with different concepts.
566
00:42:17,640 --> 00:42:24,320
You know, it's crazy. And then we do that like a couple of times and then by like, I
567
00:42:24,320 --> 00:42:34,280
mean, if I do three videos a day of filming, and I do that over two months, like maybe
568
00:42:34,280 --> 00:42:46,000
two times a month, I have like 16 to 18 videos in like, yeah, five days. So that already
569
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:53,360
is like almost four months worth, five months worth of videos in the future. So I have a
570
00:42:53,360 --> 00:42:57,720
lot of backlog. So like times where I don't have time to film. So like now during the
571
00:42:57,720 --> 00:43:02,040
comp season where I don't have time to like drive all the way to meet my videographer,
572
00:43:02,040 --> 00:43:08,920
find a day to like film all of this. I have like 10 videos in stock to edit before drying
573
00:43:08,920 --> 00:43:09,920
out.
574
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:15,280
Okay, that makes sense. That's a good idea. Do you like change outfits in between to make
575
00:43:15,280 --> 00:43:20,160
it look like it's not the same?
576
00:43:20,160 --> 00:43:24,640
I think at the beginning, I changed a lot. And now I've just gone to a point where it's
577
00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:30,320
like, I wear the same clothes all the time anyway. So it doesn't matter.
578
00:43:30,320 --> 00:43:36,120
Good to know. You mentioned that in one of the sort of recent videos you had posted,
579
00:43:36,120 --> 00:43:41,520
you got some comments about wearing a weight vest while climbing. Yeah, you said you got
580
00:43:41,520 --> 00:43:43,360
like some weird comments about it.
581
00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:52,000
Yeah, so recently I did a video on climbing with a weight vest. And like the whole purpose
582
00:43:52,000 --> 00:43:58,040
for me on this video was just to like kind of show how my climbing changes. Because also
583
00:43:58,040 --> 00:44:06,480
climbing with a weight vest is a way of training that I used to use back in the day. And so
584
00:44:06,480 --> 00:44:10,960
it was just to like experiment on how I felt with the weight vest again and how it affects
585
00:44:10,960 --> 00:44:17,640
my climbing. And the conclusion was, well, yeah, with putting an extra five kilos on
586
00:44:17,640 --> 00:44:24,800
from one second to another, I wasn't as explosive. I also wasn't as like confident in my climbing
587
00:44:24,800 --> 00:44:29,440
because I mean, I wasn't sure if I could do this move with this weight vest. I was also
588
00:44:29,440 --> 00:44:35,640
a bit more hesitant. And then I got a few comments about like, where we jumped to the
589
00:44:35,640 --> 00:44:40,880
conclusion where, oh, so to be a better climber, I need to lose weight. And it's like, no,
590
00:44:40,880 --> 00:44:46,440
that was not the whole, that was not the point of my video. I would be, that would be the
591
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:54,840
last thing I would ever try to pass on. Even more so in this video, I did all the same
592
00:44:54,840 --> 00:45:01,320
boulders that I did without a weight vest, except for one. So it's kind of proves that
593
00:45:01,320 --> 00:45:06,960
like I can climb just as strong. It's just that you just need to climb with it more regularly
594
00:45:06,960 --> 00:45:10,880
and then you're probably feel more confident. But yeah, I got a few comments where it's
595
00:45:10,880 --> 00:45:16,960
like, okay, so being lighter is better and you could climb stronger. I'm like, no, to
596
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:23,440
climb strong, you need to train, you need to eat, you need to build muscle and have
597
00:45:23,440 --> 00:45:31,000
energy to be able to train. I don't know how many hours a week. And I think like that's
598
00:45:31,000 --> 00:45:36,360
the bad mental side that we have in climbing where it's like, oh, if I want to be a better
599
00:45:36,360 --> 00:45:40,720
climber, then I need to be able to pull less weight. If I have less weight, I can pull
600
00:45:40,720 --> 00:45:49,400
more. But it's not like that at all. And I was just, yeah, I want to bring everyone out
601
00:45:49,400 --> 00:45:51,160
of that mental state.
602
00:45:51,160 --> 00:45:56,080
Yeah, that was like a weird conclusion. Cause I mean, like a bunch of people have made those
603
00:45:56,080 --> 00:46:00,040
kinds of videos where they try to like climb with a weight vest on.
604
00:46:00,040 --> 00:46:08,200
Yeah. And it's, I don't know, I talked about like weight and climbing on Instagram one
605
00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:17,160
time and really try to like share my experience, but like I didn't even think a weight, like
606
00:46:17,160 --> 00:46:21,680
that conclusion could come from putting on a weight vest. So maybe, and then I was like
607
00:46:21,680 --> 00:46:27,360
doubting like, oh shit, did I, was this like a bad idea? Was this a bad video? And at the
608
00:46:27,360 --> 00:46:32,240
same time, like, but no, because this is a training method and I'm showing people that
609
00:46:32,240 --> 00:46:34,920
even with extra weight, I can climb hard.
610
00:46:34,920 --> 00:46:40,760
Yeah. Maybe it's just like all the talk about it lately in competition scenes and like most
611
00:46:40,760 --> 00:46:45,560
people who watch your channel also watch competitions. Whereas with like other channels, it's just
612
00:46:45,560 --> 00:46:51,040
like people who like climbing. So they're kind of like primed to think about it in that
613
00:46:51,040 --> 00:46:57,320
way. Or maybe like, I kind of wonder if it's, cause like most of the other people who have
614
00:46:57,320 --> 00:47:05,320
made those videos are like male YouTubers and climbers. And they don't really, I don't
615
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:10,680
know, people tend to not really care as much about men's bodies, I guess.
616
00:47:10,680 --> 00:47:19,320
Yeah. That's also one thing I thought of. It was like, is it because like I'm a woman
617
00:47:19,320 --> 00:47:23,960
and is it because like you can also like women are judged a bit more about their body types,
618
00:47:23,960 --> 00:47:30,600
their weights. And so like, I don't know if it was women commenting, but it could also
619
00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:38,040
be like, if it was a woman who commented, maybe also like feeling bad because they're
620
00:47:38,040 --> 00:47:42,720
maybe not necessarily like feeling good in their climbing or in their skills and on like
621
00:47:42,720 --> 00:47:49,960
their body image. And so it's like, I, that's why like my response was like very, like I
622
00:47:49,960 --> 00:47:56,600
was trying to be encouraging and be like, no, the climbing you have to eat, like to
623
00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:02,560
get stronger, to build muscles, recuperate. But it's always an interesting, it's always
624
00:48:02,560 --> 00:48:07,280
interesting to compare like comments on men's videos and women's videos.
625
00:48:07,280 --> 00:48:12,520
Yeah. I mean, even within like the whole red-ass discussion, I think a lot of times it's about
626
00:48:12,520 --> 00:48:17,080
people don't really think about it on the men's side as much, even though it does happen.
627
00:48:17,080 --> 00:48:23,680
Yeah. I guess, do you feel like, so I don't know much about this because I never exercised
628
00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:29,760
when I was a kid, but when it comes to like your body changing from puberty, do you feel
629
00:48:29,760 --> 00:48:39,080
like you felt a difference in terms of how you climbed? Like you had to relearn anything?
630
00:48:39,080 --> 00:48:44,960
I wouldn't say I felt a difference in how I climbed. It was more like when I was younger,
631
00:48:44,960 --> 00:48:50,160
I mean, I still can, but when I was younger, I could eat so much food and not put on like
632
00:48:50,160 --> 00:48:57,720
a gram. And it was kind of when I hit that puberty phase where I was continuing to like
633
00:48:57,720 --> 00:49:02,520
eat the same things and I wasn't the healthiest of kids either. Like I ate chips, sweets,
634
00:49:02,520 --> 00:49:09,160
like chop everything. I mean, I still do, but during that puberty phase, like I was
635
00:49:09,160 --> 00:49:14,440
very skinny as a kid because I did a lot of sports. I did so many things. And then once
636
00:49:14,440 --> 00:49:17,680
I hit that puberty phase, I was still doing the same amount of sports, still eating the
637
00:49:17,680 --> 00:49:26,960
same amount, but because you're going through that phase, I was gaining weight. And for
638
00:49:26,960 --> 00:49:34,200
me, since like around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much
639
00:49:34,200 --> 00:49:39,120
weight. It's going to affect your climbing. That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting
640
00:49:39,120 --> 00:49:45,640
on weight. Like what's wrong? Like this is terrible, da da da. And so that's when the
641
00:49:45,640 --> 00:49:52,360
overthinking on food kind of hit in. But the thing is, is that during puberty, yeah, you're
642
00:49:52,360 --> 00:49:56,520
growing, your body's changing. It's normal that your weight fluctuates. And it's something
643
00:49:56,520 --> 00:50:01,760
that I feel like isn't talked about enough, especially for like younger athletes coming
644
00:50:01,760 --> 00:50:11,600
up. Like they may think, oh, I need to stay the same weight that I was at 12, which unfortunately
645
00:50:11,600 --> 00:50:18,240
is impossible. And that's something that I didn't hear when I was like going through
646
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:23,600
that phase. And so all I heard was like, got to be careful. You're going to get fat or
647
00:50:23,600 --> 00:50:27,280
you're going to put on weight. You're going to like for climbing, you want to be light.
648
00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:32,360
And so for me, it was like, oh my gosh, yes, I need to stop eating.
649
00:50:32,360 --> 00:50:39,240
Yeah. I just, I have no idea what going through that would kind of feel like. I guess I just
650
00:50:39,240 --> 00:50:44,880
know from like seeing humans that there's a very big difference between what like a
651
00:50:44,880 --> 00:50:51,280
child's body looks like and what an adult's body looks like. And I guess in sports, people
652
00:50:51,280 --> 00:50:57,640
kind of want to keep what they're used to just because they've been with that body for
653
00:50:57,640 --> 00:50:58,960
so long.
654
00:50:58,960 --> 00:51:06,720
It's hard. Yeah. It's so hard to like really understand where it comes from. But I think,
655
00:51:06,720 --> 00:51:15,040
yeah, mostly for me was like, I think, yeah, when I was 14, 15, I was maybe like 42, 46
656
00:51:15,040 --> 00:51:24,560
kilos. And so in a short span of time, like I had gained much more weight and like, I
657
00:51:24,560 --> 00:51:28,120
didn't even necessarily feel the difference when I was climbing. That's the worst part.
658
00:51:28,120 --> 00:51:33,640
It's just that you see the scales. Like you see that change and you're like, it's like,
659
00:51:33,640 --> 00:51:38,880
yeah, climbing is a weight sport. This is going to affect my climbing. And so I'm going
660
00:51:38,880 --> 00:51:43,920
to be worse if I put on more weight, but not at all. Like I was gaining muscle. I was gaining
661
00:51:43,920 --> 00:51:51,160
strength. So it's like, I'm actually feeling stronger than I ever have, even though I've
662
00:51:51,160 --> 00:51:52,640
put on six kilos.
663
00:51:52,640 --> 00:51:55,440
I guess how did you snap out of that mentality?
664
00:51:55,440 --> 00:52:03,960
I had a lot of help from like friends, family, but also like psychologist, nutritionist doctor.
665
00:52:03,960 --> 00:52:12,720
When I was younger, my doctor was like, look, you're very on the limit to red S. I want
666
00:52:12,720 --> 00:52:18,640
you to get into contact with this nutritionist. She's a good friend of mine. She's great.
667
00:52:18,640 --> 00:52:24,920
Which I did, but it happened in two phases. The first phase I went to go talk to her and
668
00:52:24,920 --> 00:52:32,120
she was like, yeah, so of course for energy, for you to, you need food, you can eat bread,
669
00:52:32,120 --> 00:52:35,960
you can carbs is what's going to give you energy. And in my head, I was just like, I
670
00:52:35,960 --> 00:52:39,160
was listening to her, but I was like, I'm never going to eat bread ever again.
671
00:52:39,160 --> 00:52:44,920
Oh my gosh. Nope. No pasta. Okay. You're telling me this, but I'm going to eat as little as
672
00:52:44,920 --> 00:52:51,280
possible. So I wasn't like ready to accept her help, but it was as like years went by
673
00:52:51,280 --> 00:52:56,720
where I kind of like noticed from like, this is not good. I don't have a good relationship
674
00:52:56,720 --> 00:53:03,360
with food. Like I reduce my meals as much as possible to then be starving in the middle
675
00:53:03,360 --> 00:53:09,400
of the night to then go eat. And it's like, that is not how it's supposed to be. So I
676
00:53:09,400 --> 00:53:14,800
think it's also a lot like myself who kind of realized like my frontal lobe maybe developed
677
00:53:14,800 --> 00:53:21,760
a bit more. I was like, this is not normal. And that's when I also recontacted her again
678
00:53:21,760 --> 00:53:27,400
and she's like, okay, look, we're going to work on this. I had to download like an app
679
00:53:27,400 --> 00:53:31,600
and like I'd sent her my meals. And since I was motivated and really wanted to like
680
00:53:31,600 --> 00:53:39,240
work on it and find a good relationship with food, I was like, okay, yeah, this is what
681
00:53:39,240 --> 00:53:40,600
I need to do to get better.
682
00:53:40,600 --> 00:53:46,000
Well, did you like tell your nutritionist that you hadn't actually been doing what she
683
00:53:46,000 --> 00:53:47,000
said?
684
00:53:47,000 --> 00:53:51,160
Yeah, it was, it was a couple years later. Like I think I was wondering two years later
685
00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:55,660
after the first time I saw her, I was like, oh, to be honest, what you were telling me
686
00:53:55,660 --> 00:54:04,400
back in the day, I just was not accepting it. But now I'm ready to like listen and hear
687
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:11,240
what you have to say and really work on it. And she was like, well, the fact that you
688
00:54:11,240 --> 00:54:17,160
said that shows that you've grown as a person and also as an athlete. So thank you for sharing.
689
00:54:17,160 --> 00:54:23,520
I was like, you're welcome. Yeah. But my psychologist also helped. She was like, you need to share
690
00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:30,700
like what you're thinking and you can never really overshare when it comes to these kinds
691
00:54:30,700 --> 00:54:31,700
of things.
692
00:54:31,700 --> 00:54:34,400
Never hide stuff from your doctors or nutritionists.
693
00:54:34,400 --> 00:54:37,320
No, no, never. You should always be honest.
694
00:54:37,320 --> 00:54:41,320
Well, I'm glad you had that support system. I think that always helps a lot.
695
00:54:41,320 --> 00:54:42,320
Yeah, for sure.
696
00:54:42,320 --> 00:54:52,200
I do have a question about, I guess, like weight and climbing. I don't want it to, I
697
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:58,200
don't know if it's like a bad question, so it might get cut out. But do people do like
698
00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:05,600
bulking and cutting sessions and like with the competition season, like they do in other
699
00:55:05,600 --> 00:55:06,600
sports?
700
00:55:06,600 --> 00:55:15,440
Yeah. So I think there is like a phase before comps where people are like, or athletes can
701
00:55:15,440 --> 00:55:24,120
be like, okay, well, I'm going to try to like get as lean as possible. Which I won't lie
702
00:55:24,120 --> 00:55:33,600
is something that I do, but I don't reduce my meals. I reduce the chips and the chocolate
703
00:55:33,600 --> 00:55:43,400
that I'm eating. So it's more like I try to like during the winter phase, it's more like,
704
00:55:43,400 --> 00:55:52,200
oh, well, season's over. I'm just going to enjoy like eating the foods that I enjoy most,
705
00:55:52,200 --> 00:55:59,000
which is like chocolate, chips, sweets. And I have that a bit more during the winter phase.
706
00:55:59,000 --> 00:56:07,240
And then once it's comps, I kind of like, I don't really know why, because I guess it
707
00:56:07,240 --> 00:56:12,800
doesn't necessarily affect my climbing. But I think also just like thinking that I'm eating
708
00:56:12,800 --> 00:56:21,080
cleaner also like helps. So I'm like, okay, well, I'm just going to, I don't cut everything
709
00:56:21,080 --> 00:56:29,640
out. Like I'm just, I like, I just eat really big amount of chips. So like I had a discussion
710
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:33,960
with my boyfriend where he was like, it's not by reducing the amount of chips you eat
711
00:56:33,960 --> 00:56:38,640
that you're going to lose weight. I'm like, if I have a pack of chips a day, which is
712
00:56:38,640 --> 00:56:46,480
like 500 calories, of course it is. Like, replace that with something healthier. Exactly.
713
00:56:46,480 --> 00:56:52,160
Replace that with pasta or like it's like, of course you're going to see an influence
714
00:56:52,160 --> 00:56:56,560
on like body weight. And so that's just kind of the shift that I do. Like I just, instead
715
00:56:56,560 --> 00:57:02,400
of having a bag of chips a day, I have maybe one a week. Like that bag of chips last me
716
00:57:02,400 --> 00:57:08,040
the whole week. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I mean, I guess I was wondering, because I know like
717
00:57:08,040 --> 00:57:14,960
a lot of other sports, people do like a huge bulk where they're like trying to put on as
718
00:57:14,960 --> 00:57:21,640
much muscle as they can, like fat, whatever, it doesn't matter. And then once like the
719
00:57:21,640 --> 00:57:27,280
competition is about to happen, that's when they like cut all of it. And then they sometimes
720
00:57:27,280 --> 00:57:34,040
get into kind of a dangerous zone where they really shouldn't be there, but they're only
721
00:57:34,040 --> 00:57:38,560
going to do that for a little and then it'll like all come back on. So maybe it's fine.
722
00:57:38,560 --> 00:57:45,760
I don't know the nutrition side there. Yeah. I don't totally think that's the best. Okay.
723
00:57:45,760 --> 00:57:55,460
Like, because like I definitely agree to put on muscle, you need to eat more protein. But
724
00:57:55,460 --> 00:58:00,880
I think the idea of like telling yourself to eat as much as possible, to like gain as
725
00:58:00,880 --> 00:58:05,840
much muscle as possible, to then reduce my calories afterwards. I think that's where
726
00:58:05,840 --> 00:58:12,560
like, yeah, the kind of like disordered eating can sometimes come in. Whereas if you just
727
00:58:12,560 --> 00:58:18,080
eat the same amount of calories the whole time, you just like maybe switch things up
728
00:58:18,080 --> 00:58:24,800
where you like eat more protein throughout the day for like muscle building. And then
729
00:58:24,800 --> 00:58:29,560
maybe during the comp phase, just like then reduce protein and have more carbs. That I
730
00:58:29,560 --> 00:58:35,120
find that much more efficient. And then you just have like a normal balance throughout
731
00:58:35,120 --> 00:58:40,600
your whole life of like food intake. Although if it's always like, eat more, now reduce,
732
00:58:40,600 --> 00:58:48,560
eat more, now reduce. It's like you're never really like intuitively eating. It's always
733
00:58:48,560 --> 00:58:53,000
like, you're always counting. You're always watching what you're eating. You're always
734
00:58:53,000 --> 00:58:58,800
like, I need to eat a thousand more calories today, whether it's eating more or less. It's
735
00:58:58,800 --> 00:59:03,960
like, ah, I need to eat a thousand more or I need to eat 300 less. It's like you're always
736
00:59:03,960 --> 00:59:11,720
constantly thinking of food. And so it's like already that I find unhealthy. Although if
737
00:59:11,720 --> 00:59:17,640
you just always have like the same amount of food intake, you just change the proportions
738
00:59:17,640 --> 00:59:23,080
of like protein, carbs. I find that so much more healthier.
739
00:59:23,080 --> 00:59:29,040
Yeah, it's a lot easier mentally for sure. Yeah, because then you're just like, okay,
740
00:59:29,040 --> 00:59:35,400
well I'm hungry. I'm going to make myself a meal. This is my meal. I have, I don't know,
741
00:59:35,400 --> 00:59:41,200
my protein in it. And then when I'm done, I'm full. Although if you're calorie counting,
742
00:59:41,200 --> 00:59:46,540
you're like, okay, let me weigh my pasta that I'm about to make. Let me count the sauce
743
00:59:46,540 --> 00:59:52,160
that I'm putting in. There's just so much to think about.
744
00:59:52,160 --> 00:59:58,000
Yeah. Maybe something I need to ask like a bodybuilder about.
745
00:59:58,000 --> 01:00:07,320
My cousin's boyfriend is in, I think, bodybuilding. And I should actually also ask him how it
746
01:00:07,320 --> 01:00:13,120
is mentally because I see he's always like posting like video because they also like
747
01:00:13,120 --> 01:00:19,720
take pictures of themselves for like progress. Yeah. And it's very like image, body image
748
01:00:19,720 --> 01:00:27,520
dependent. So I always wondered like, how does it actually affect them? Because I feel
749
01:00:27,520 --> 01:00:32,760
like that is the perfect way to get into disordered eating and not feel confident at all in your
750
01:00:32,760 --> 01:00:37,760
body. Yeah. Well, I mean, that's kind of like their whole lifestyle. Like that is their
751
01:00:37,760 --> 01:00:44,760
livelihood, like cooking and cutting. So I'm like, it seems it's definitely not for me,
752
01:00:44,760 --> 01:00:50,360
but is it fine? Like, I don't know. There must be so much research into it. Maybe it
753
01:00:50,360 --> 01:00:54,360
is fine. So yeah, I'm not sure.
754
01:00:54,360 --> 01:00:59,160
It should be yet really interesting to get into. I'll get into that too.
755
01:00:59,160 --> 01:01:05,000
Okay. Yeah, let me know. Yeah. And yeah, I just wanted to know if any climbers did it.
756
01:01:05,000 --> 01:01:08,760
Like do you know if anyone does it like that?
757
01:01:08,760 --> 01:01:17,080
I don't personally know. I just feel like it's a general, like there was like, I even
758
01:01:17,080 --> 01:01:24,720
recently had a discussion with my coach where he was like, also just to like go back onto
759
01:01:24,720 --> 01:01:30,480
training and all of that. I don't want you to feel like when it comes to comp season
760
01:01:30,480 --> 01:01:37,080
that you need to cut because I know it's like a general understanding that this is comp
761
01:01:37,080 --> 01:01:43,480
climbers do and not necessarily just climbers, but athletes in general, the athletes before
762
01:01:43,480 --> 01:01:53,560
their big event, they like cut as much as they can. He was like, I don't want you to
763
01:01:53,560 --> 01:01:59,080
think that that's what you need to do. But yeah, I don't personally know anyone, but
764
01:01:59,080 --> 01:02:05,880
I think because it just happens so often in so many sports, like for sure in climbing,
765
01:02:05,880 --> 01:02:10,440
it happens. I mean, you can even tell sometimes like you see a climber winter and then you
766
01:02:10,440 --> 01:02:17,920
see them before comp season. It's like they've been cutting. But it could also like, you
767
01:02:17,920 --> 01:02:23,840
can do it in a healthy way. That's the thing. Yeah. Yeah. Like this is why I find it's such
768
01:02:23,840 --> 01:02:29,240
a sensitive subject because there's that bad mentality in climbing where it's like, I need
769
01:02:29,240 --> 01:02:34,160
to be lighter to be stronger. But if you're doing it in a healthy way and in a way where
770
01:02:34,160 --> 01:02:41,800
it's like, I'm not going to reduce or like maybe reduced by like 100, 200 calories, but
771
01:02:41,800 --> 01:02:47,320
like I'm not going to do this crazy cut or whatever. I'm just going to eat a bit more
772
01:02:47,320 --> 01:02:54,240
healthier and just be careful on certain things that I'm eating. Then it can be just, yeah,
773
01:02:54,240 --> 01:03:04,080
then it's just like more natural law. Yeah. Obvious kind of, and be like, I need to reduce
774
01:03:04,080 --> 01:03:08,640
500 calories and this is what my meal is going to be. And this is the amount of grams that
775
01:03:08,640 --> 01:03:14,240
I need to have. I feel like once you start doing that, it's unhealthy. Yeah. That's a
776
01:03:14,240 --> 01:03:20,200
bit dangerous. I guess we'll just say, we'll just wrap it up with maybe there needs to
777
01:03:20,200 --> 01:03:27,120
be more research in terms of bulking cutting and work with a nutritionist. Yeah. I definitely
778
01:03:27,120 --> 01:03:34,600
think a nutritionist will help you for sure. If you're doubting on your food intake. And
779
01:03:34,600 --> 01:03:39,800
I think, I think the general thing is just like, if you're in a healthy mindset, then
780
01:03:39,800 --> 01:03:45,000
I guess it's fine. But once it becomes to be obsessive, then you need to take a step
781
01:03:45,000 --> 01:03:49,680
back and be like, something is wrong. All right. Well, we'll wrap that up there. Unless
782
01:03:49,680 --> 01:03:55,360
you had anything else that you wanted to touch on with that. No, I think it's all good. Okay.
783
01:03:55,360 --> 01:04:02,920
So, yeah, let's go into a bit more of, I guess, your personal life. You're pretty open about
784
01:04:02,920 --> 01:04:10,400
being in a relationship with another pro comp climber on the circuit. Yes. And so that's
785
01:04:10,400 --> 01:04:14,620
great because I feel like there must be a lot more relationships behind the scenes that
786
01:04:14,620 --> 01:04:21,280
we don't hear about. I mean, does it happen a lot? You guys spend a lot of time together.
787
01:04:21,280 --> 01:04:28,160
So I mean, just naturally, I never, I never knew about Tomoa and Akio until they like
788
01:04:28,160 --> 01:04:35,240
got married on Instagram. I was like, I didn't know they were, I think. Oh, like you would
789
01:04:35,240 --> 01:04:40,520
see them on the circuit and still not know. Yeah. And still not know. Okay. But I think
790
01:04:40,520 --> 01:04:43,840
they're just very discreet people in general, like the Japanese in general. But yeah, there's
791
01:04:43,840 --> 01:04:48,320
sometimes also then like you see a new relationship come out when you're like, oh, and you'd
792
01:04:48,320 --> 01:04:54,040
see that like before Instagram, you'd see it on the comp scene and be like, oh, okay,
793
01:04:54,040 --> 01:05:01,600
cool. Any like, well, no, I'm not going to ask for like names or anything. But does it,
794
01:05:01,600 --> 01:05:09,400
do you feel like it gets messy? I feel like the climbing community is really small. So
795
01:05:09,400 --> 01:05:15,840
there's a lot of gossip and everyone kind of knows everyone, especially on the comp
796
01:05:15,840 --> 01:05:30,360
scene where like you see everyone on the, yeah, comps. I don't personally know much
797
01:05:30,360 --> 01:05:38,240
of like the gossip gossip behind the scenes of what really goes on. But I think there's,
798
01:05:38,240 --> 01:05:48,640
yeah, there's quite a lot of things going on. Okay. Did, I mean, did you ever, did you
799
01:05:48,640 --> 01:05:56,000
like consider that before going into your relationship where it's like, maybe I, maybe
800
01:05:56,000 --> 01:06:00,320
this isn't a good idea. Like if something bad happened, we would see each other all
801
01:06:00,320 --> 01:06:11,080
the time everywhere. No, that's not, I never really thought of it that way. For me it was
802
01:06:11,080 --> 01:06:19,240
more like, okay, someone at comps, I'm going to be able to see them at every comp too.
803
01:06:19,240 --> 01:06:25,240
Also like training wise, we like love the same thing. And so we could go on climbing
804
01:06:25,240 --> 01:06:30,320
trips. We can, that was kind of more like my mental side. I was like, oh my God, this
805
01:06:30,320 --> 01:06:36,240
is great actually. Nice. Yeah. There's so many things that we can do that we both enjoy
806
01:06:36,240 --> 01:06:41,720
instead of like, if someone who doesn't climb be like, well, what do you want to do? Do
807
01:06:41,720 --> 01:06:49,000
you not want to go on a climbing trip next summer for three weeks? So no, I was a lot
808
01:06:49,000 --> 01:06:53,760
more like on the positive side than like, oh, if it ends, I'm going to have to see this
809
01:06:53,760 --> 01:07:00,960
person for my rest of the career. Okay. That's good to know. Is it like difficult that you
810
01:07:00,960 --> 01:07:05,040
guys live in different countries? I guess now you're kind of splitting your time. So
811
01:07:05,040 --> 01:07:11,360
maybe that was part of the reason. Yeah. No. So now it's really easy because I see him
812
01:07:11,360 --> 01:07:19,800
almost every day. Yeah. Cause I'm like half living here in Innsbruck and then also half
813
01:07:19,800 --> 01:07:25,360
like back at home with my parents. So it's not right now. It's really easy, but once
814
01:07:25,360 --> 01:07:31,280
it's kind of like getting into the like more serious side, it was like, okay, well we won't
815
01:07:31,280 --> 01:07:37,160
see each other for two weeks and then I'll see you. Yeah. Well we have time, which was
816
01:07:37,160 --> 01:07:43,600
a bit harder. It's like, oh, I don't like long distance. Yeah. But we sorted that out
817
01:07:43,600 --> 01:07:48,480
quite fast. So that's okay. Yeah. Was that like kind of like the most challenging thing
818
01:07:48,480 --> 01:07:57,280
about dating another like comp climber or were there like other challenges there? I
819
01:07:57,280 --> 01:08:06,520
think for me it was like more the long distance, like how will it work potentially? But since
820
01:08:06,520 --> 01:08:12,720
I finished uni and decided to just like focus a hundred percent on climbing, well I had
821
01:08:12,720 --> 01:08:17,200
the time to move around and since he like also focuses a hundred percent on climbing,
822
01:08:17,200 --> 01:08:23,800
like we had a lot of flexibility to move around that. I think for me the big question was
823
01:08:23,800 --> 01:08:28,800
like, is it okay if then I'm not in Switzerland as much, if I'm not training with the team
824
01:08:28,800 --> 01:08:34,520
as much, if I don't see my coach as much. But that I had like a huge discussion with
825
01:08:34,520 --> 01:08:40,760
my coach. I had a huge discussion with like the also Austrian team coaches to see if I
826
01:08:40,760 --> 01:08:48,240
could like train with them and everyone was so understanding and helpful and we like figured
827
01:08:48,240 --> 01:08:56,400
it all out and now I'm fine. Yeah. So do you spend a lot of time training with him? Yeah.
828
01:08:56,400 --> 01:09:02,960
That's yeah. I train with my coach or with my boyfriend? Oh, with your boyfriend. Yeah.
829
01:09:02,960 --> 01:09:10,360
Yeah. Almost every session is like he's there. Sometimes he's like, of course, like training
830
01:09:10,360 --> 01:09:15,640
with the guys on the team because I guess that's one thing for me, training with him
831
01:09:15,640 --> 01:09:20,440
can only bring me positive things because he's just so much stronger than me. I guess
832
01:09:20,440 --> 01:09:29,820
him training with me is a bit probably not as beneficial as it is for me because he's
833
01:09:29,820 --> 01:09:37,880
not necessarily, like if it's just us climbing, he sometimes finds it hard to get himself
834
01:09:37,880 --> 01:09:44,160
a bit more motivated to like try hard and just like power it out because I'm not as
835
01:09:44,160 --> 01:09:49,920
strong. Because he just, he just doesn't have that person to like also like push him and
836
01:09:49,920 --> 01:09:55,120
be like, oh, this border is possible. Okay, let's do it together. But for me, because
837
01:09:55,120 --> 01:09:59,360
he's stronger and he's like, you could do this. It's just that I'm like, yeah, of course
838
01:09:59,360 --> 01:10:04,960
I can. Yeah. Yeah, I agree with that. Yeah. It's always nice to climb with someone stronger.
839
01:10:04,960 --> 01:10:12,680
I also find it really hard to get motivation if I'm the only stronger climber. Because
840
01:10:12,680 --> 01:10:17,480
then, yeah, if you like come across a boulder that you can't do, you're like, well, maybe
841
01:10:17,480 --> 01:10:24,360
it's just not possible. Yeah, exactly. And so it's, it's a big like, not necessarily
842
01:10:24,360 --> 01:10:30,320
battle in your head, but it's like, okay, you can, you can just try hard, like give
843
01:10:30,320 --> 01:10:35,880
it all like, maybe, but if someone else is with you where they maybe do a move and you're
844
01:10:35,880 --> 01:10:39,760
like, oh, great, it is possible. And then maybe you do the other move and it's like,
845
01:10:39,760 --> 01:10:43,480
okay, we can definitely work on this. We can definitely get it together. So I have that
846
01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:49,720
24 seven. He doesn't. Well, that is great. I'm glad that it's, I'm glad that it's working
847
01:10:49,720 --> 01:10:57,100
out for you. Thank you. Okay, so outside of climbing then, do you have time for like anything
848
01:10:57,100 --> 01:11:04,200
else that you like to do? Did you ever pick up an instrument as a kid when your parents
849
01:11:04,200 --> 01:11:11,040
were having you guys choose something? Yeah, I did the electric guitar for a couple of
850
01:11:11,040 --> 01:11:20,560
years. But put that aside, once I really got more into climbing. I think just like, right
851
01:11:20,560 --> 01:11:27,240
now it's whenever I have like after training, it'd be just more like, yeah, reading. When
852
01:11:27,240 --> 01:11:34,800
I went to reading, like I also enjoy running, doing like other activities. Like if I had
853
01:11:34,800 --> 01:11:43,040
the money, I do escape games every day, pilates, escape games, like escape rooms. Yeah, escape
854
01:11:43,040 --> 01:11:50,240
rooms. Yeah. Oh, that's so interesting. They're so good. I just, yeah, I enjoy just love that.
855
01:11:50,240 --> 01:11:53,680
I enjoy like everything. Yeah, YouTube takes up so much time. Like, so then I've gotten
856
01:11:53,680 --> 01:12:01,240
a lot more into like videography and photography. Like I really enjoy like taking pictures.
857
01:12:01,240 --> 01:12:05,080
Like if we ever go on a trip, I always have like my camera and then I'm like editing a
858
01:12:05,080 --> 01:12:11,680
bit. So there's yeah, a lot of small things, but if I had more money, I definitely do much
859
01:12:11,680 --> 01:12:16,880
more. Interesting. I feel like escape rooms is kind of different. I don't really hear
860
01:12:16,880 --> 01:12:22,760
people gush about escape rooms too much anymore these days. Yeah. There was a Harry Potter
861
01:12:22,760 --> 01:12:28,320
one that I did recently, which also just got me back into it. I was like, wow, Harry Potter.
862
01:12:28,320 --> 01:12:35,560
And this was great. Interesting. Okay. It was like, it was a big thing a few years ago
863
01:12:35,560 --> 01:12:39,240
and then it kind of like died down a bit. So I don't hear people talk about it so much
864
01:12:39,240 --> 01:12:45,560
anymore. I think also my parents, you know, my parents are into it too, or like my mom,
865
01:12:45,560 --> 01:12:48,640
every time we're all together as a family, she's like, I'm working as an escape room
866
01:12:48,640 --> 01:12:55,360
friend. Oh, wow. Fun. Okay. Good to know. If anyone wants to take you anywhere, it's
867
01:12:55,360 --> 01:13:03,120
the escape room. Escape room. Yep. Any goals for the future that you can think of? I've
868
01:13:03,120 --> 01:13:11,400
actually thought quite a bit recently because I just turned 26. I like I turned 26 two months
869
01:13:11,400 --> 01:13:19,200
ago now. And I was like, what am I going to do with my life? Thank you. How long am I
870
01:13:19,200 --> 01:13:25,600
going to continue doing comps for? What am I going to do when I stop? Like there's been
871
01:13:25,600 --> 01:13:30,320
a lot of, for some reason hitting the 26 and realizing I'm closer to 30 was kind of like
872
01:13:30,320 --> 01:13:41,360
a shock. Yeah, I know. I'm closer to 30 than 20. And I think also, yeah, with sports, I
873
01:13:41,360 --> 01:13:49,240
just like people consider, would consider me old in climbing compared to like the average
874
01:13:49,240 --> 01:13:56,800
age of like all the youth coming up now and they're born in like 2006. And yeah, so you're
875
01:13:56,800 --> 01:14:04,920
born before 2000, right? Yes. You were born in the 1900s, as people say. I'm still the
876
01:14:04,920 --> 01:14:13,280
cool generation. Imagine being born in 2000s. I know. I can't, I can't imagine. But no,
877
01:14:13,280 --> 01:14:21,560
so I have actually been thinking quite a bit of like my future and stuff. And I think for
878
01:14:21,560 --> 01:14:30,800
like the close future, I might head back to school. Like maybe do an online course on
879
01:14:30,800 --> 01:14:37,960
like cybersecurity, something like that. Cause that's something I find really interesting
880
01:14:37,960 --> 01:14:48,560
and could be really motivated to work in in the future. And otherwise maybe, yeah, like
881
01:14:48,560 --> 01:14:52,760
this coaching app and depending on how it goes, maybe like develop something more into
882
01:14:52,760 --> 01:15:02,200
coaching. I was also talking to my coach about maybe in the future coaching the Swiss team
883
01:15:02,200 --> 01:15:08,600
and all of that. And so there's a few options, few ideas, but for now, I think for the closer
884
01:15:08,600 --> 01:15:13,560
future is like this online training app and online school.
885
01:15:13,560 --> 01:15:19,760
Exciting. Sorry, you had to go through the getting closer to 30.
886
01:15:19,760 --> 01:15:29,520
Yeah. Realize certain things. It's rough. Yeah. It's weird. Well, for, yeah, I'm 27
887
01:15:29,520 --> 01:15:37,960
and for me, I do hang around a lot of like, there are a lot of like younger climbing people
888
01:15:37,960 --> 01:15:44,000
as well. So when I hear someone's 22, especially because of COVID, I think, especially because
889
01:15:44,000 --> 01:15:48,320
of COVID, I feel like I lost a few years. And so when I meet someone who's like 22,
890
01:15:48,320 --> 01:15:55,920
I'm like, okay, cool. We're like the same. And then I think in their mind, I'm like grandma.
891
01:15:55,920 --> 01:15:59,360
So that always hurts.
892
01:15:59,360 --> 01:16:05,840
For sure. Like I try to tell myself, look, COVID took two years of my life. So I'm not
893
01:16:05,840 --> 01:16:12,960
26. I'm 24. Exactly. But then like my boyfriend's two years younger than me. My brother is three
894
01:16:12,960 --> 01:16:17,680
years younger than me. Like everyone on the team and Dre, my teammate is a year older,
895
01:16:17,680 --> 01:16:25,840
but she is taking a year out to travel. So like now everyone on the team is like 2001
896
01:16:25,840 --> 01:16:34,760
and before. So I'm like, oh my gosh, I'm so old. But then I talked to my coach and he's
897
01:16:34,760 --> 01:16:41,000
like, look, once you hit 30, you'll realize that there's actually so much more in life
898
01:16:41,000 --> 01:16:47,200
than being in your twenties. Don't worry about it. I'm like, I will definitely agree. But
899
01:16:47,200 --> 01:16:54,160
right now it does not feel that way. Right now I feel like it's the end of my life.
900
01:16:54,160 --> 01:16:59,880
Yeah, I get that. Especially when I see all the posts about people being like, people
901
01:16:59,880 --> 01:17:03,200
are born in the 1900s.
902
01:17:03,200 --> 01:17:10,480
Yeah. And one post that I recently saw also where it's like, I grew up in the One Direction
903
01:17:10,480 --> 01:17:16,640
group. You know, I loved One Direction, loved them. And someone commented, Harry Styles
904
01:17:16,640 --> 01:17:25,520
was in One Direction. I was like, excuse me? How do you not know that?
905
01:17:25,520 --> 01:17:28,520
Or getting to that point in life.
906
01:17:28,520 --> 01:17:33,880
I feel like also, yeah, in sports, because people are always like, oh, you're getting
907
01:17:33,880 --> 01:17:42,120
old. What are you going to do? And it's like, I'm only 26. Like, maybe I'm a bit older
908
01:17:42,120 --> 01:17:46,800
on the older side in the sports, but people are climbing into like Yakup Shuler. He's
909
01:17:46,800 --> 01:17:51,400
32. Like Jane Kim. She had a kid and came back.
910
01:17:51,400 --> 01:17:54,320
Yeah, she has a huge inspiration.
911
01:17:54,320 --> 01:18:00,560
Huge inspiration. Like, let's stop making me feel old. Thank you. And with my Asian
912
01:18:00,560 --> 01:18:03,960
jeans, maybe I can go in time 40. Who knows?
913
01:18:03,960 --> 01:18:09,560
Yeah. The thing is, like, well, I don't really know when peak is, but then you still have
914
01:18:09,560 --> 01:18:14,160
the experience. So you gain experience. Maybe. Exactly.
915
01:18:14,160 --> 01:18:17,920
Physical peak. I don't know when that is, but you have the experience.
916
01:18:17,920 --> 01:18:23,680
Yeah. And I think, or at least up until now, I haven't felt a difference, I feel like,
917
01:18:23,680 --> 01:18:28,720
in anything. But sometimes I'm like, oh, my back hurts. And then you've got the younger
918
01:18:28,720 --> 01:18:34,720
one who's like, aren't you a grandma? I'm like, fuck that. You'll see. It will come.
919
01:18:34,720 --> 01:18:38,680
You're just young and haven't gone through puberty yet. You'll see.
920
01:18:38,680 --> 01:18:43,720
Yeah, you'll see in a few years. Everyone goes through it. It's the circle
921
01:18:43,720 --> 01:18:52,240
of life. Yeah. Okay. That's enough depressing talk.
922
01:18:52,240 --> 01:18:58,160
I think those were all the questions I had. We have a couple Discord questions or it was
923
01:18:58,160 --> 01:19:05,240
more like one question I want to go over and then a couple statements that people had.
924
01:19:05,240 --> 01:19:11,480
Not bad statements. So one was Tom Greenall, GB coach, said that he's a big fan and he
925
01:19:11,480 --> 01:19:14,240
was really happy that you're on. I didn't know you guys knew each other, so that was
926
01:19:14,240 --> 01:19:20,200
good to know. Yeah. So when I was doing comps in England
927
01:19:20,200 --> 01:19:24,360
and all that, he was the coach at that time. And so I got to know him really well.
928
01:19:24,360 --> 01:19:28,800
I feel that makes sense. And I used to see him at every comp and we'd
929
01:19:28,800 --> 01:19:32,360
always have a little chat and stuff. So, oh, that's so sweet.
930
01:19:32,360 --> 01:19:39,880
Yeah. Awesome. This other one from a person in the Discord, she said, I once called Sophia
931
01:19:39,880 --> 01:19:45,360
by the wrong name a year and a half ago and I still think about that at least weekly.
932
01:19:45,360 --> 01:19:49,680
So do you remember any occurrence of this? No.
933
01:19:49,680 --> 01:19:53,600
Okay, good. So then it's all good. No, no, no. It didn't. So, yep.
934
01:19:53,600 --> 01:19:58,800
No problem about that. No hard feelings. Okay. And then last question,
935
01:19:58,800 --> 01:20:06,720
who's your favorite YouTuber? That's a very good question.
936
01:20:06,720 --> 01:20:12,520
I don't really watch YouTube though. Okay. No, actually, no, I have a good answer for
937
01:20:12,520 --> 01:20:17,720
that. Natasha Osean. Oh, okay.
938
01:20:17,720 --> 01:20:24,160
And she recently did a video on how she's stopping YouTube, which made me so sad. That
939
01:20:24,160 --> 01:20:30,840
was the first person ever where I'm like, no, you're going to be like her presence.
940
01:20:30,840 --> 01:20:35,800
Like I loved her presence, her energy. And also everything was like scientific base and
941
01:20:35,800 --> 01:20:42,160
it was like proven things and not just like random people who are on YouTube and be like
942
01:20:42,160 --> 01:20:47,480
doing it for the clickbait and for the fame kind of. She was like here on to really pass
943
01:20:47,480 --> 01:20:51,280
on a message and I really love that. So yeah, I would say her.
944
01:20:51,280 --> 01:20:57,320
That's a good one. I agree. I don't hear many people talk about her because I mean, she's,
945
01:20:57,320 --> 01:21:00,280
she doesn't really do like climbing stuff generally, except for that one video with
946
01:21:00,280 --> 01:21:07,000
Yanya, which I was very surprised to see. Me too. I was like, oh my God, she's in climbing.
947
01:21:07,000 --> 01:21:10,880
This is so great. Yeah. I was like, I didn't even know she knew
948
01:21:10,880 --> 01:21:16,680
climbers. I didn't know that Yanya, I don't know how they got in contact, but I was so
949
01:21:16,680 --> 01:21:21,400
excited to see. I think everyone should watch that video. I think so too. And her videos
950
01:21:21,400 --> 01:21:27,360
in general, because I mean, that's one thing I don't do. I do not watch other YouTube climbers
951
01:21:27,360 --> 01:21:32,720
videos on YouTube. Like I, I watch my, I like, I have to watch mine because I edit them and
952
01:21:32,720 --> 01:21:38,480
that's already enough. I'm like, oh, that's enough climbing, enough climbing videos for
953
01:21:38,480 --> 01:21:44,680
now. Um, so I kind of try to like go out of YouTube.
954
01:21:44,680 --> 01:21:51,040
I was just watching these day in the life of some other YouTubers, which I enjoy, but
955
01:21:51,040 --> 01:21:55,040
not much more than that. Yeah. I really like her aesthetic as well.
956
01:21:55,040 --> 01:22:02,040
But so you never like watch other like strong climbers to try to get motivation to climb
957
01:22:02,040 --> 01:22:12,480
or train? No, I only watch like videos of boulders that
958
01:22:12,480 --> 01:22:19,440
I'm potentially interested in, like to get the methods, but otherwise motivation, I have
959
01:22:19,440 --> 01:22:22,440
it in my apartment. Yeah, that's true.
960
01:22:22,440 --> 01:22:26,720
Like with my boyfriend, like we both go, we're like, okay, let's go training. Okay, let's
961
01:22:26,720 --> 01:22:30,720
go. True. Okay. Yeah. I think for me, sometimes it
962
01:22:30,720 --> 01:22:36,340
helps. I try to like, before I know I'm about to go climbing, I try to watch a video of
963
01:22:36,340 --> 01:22:39,760
someone just doing hard boulders. That's it.
964
01:22:39,760 --> 01:22:43,080
So that I can get that motivation. Sometimes it doesn't work though.
965
01:22:43,080 --> 01:22:48,840
So I did back in the days, listen to motivational speeches though.
966
01:22:48,840 --> 01:22:54,320
Really? Like there was a time where I really, like I
967
01:22:54,320 --> 01:22:59,160
didn't have, cause I was still at like obligatory school. So I didn't have much time and I really
968
01:22:59,160 --> 01:23:04,160
had to like find ways. Like I'd wake up sometimes a bit earlier before school to train and then
969
01:23:04,160 --> 01:23:09,400
I'd have to train quite late in the evening. So to just like really boost that, I'd like
970
01:23:09,400 --> 01:23:12,840
listen to those motivational speeches like daily.
971
01:23:12,840 --> 01:23:16,440
Wow. Yeah, no, but I would believe those videos.
972
01:23:16,440 --> 01:23:21,360
Like I knew the lyrics by heart. Wait, lyrics?
973
01:23:21,360 --> 01:23:25,120
Well not lyrics, like what they were saying. Just the speech. Okay. Yeah. Just the speech.
974
01:23:25,120 --> 01:23:29,080
Don't need it anymore. Don't need it anymore.
975
01:23:29,080 --> 01:23:34,360
Luckily or luckily, I don't know. It was fun. I love their voices. It is really like, oh
976
01:23:34,360 --> 01:23:37,800
yes. Interesting. I've never tried that. Maybe
977
01:23:37,800 --> 01:23:40,840
I'll try something to give it a try. Is it?
978
01:23:40,840 --> 01:23:45,480
Cool. Well, I think that's all the questions then. Thanks for joining me today.
979
01:23:45,480 --> 01:23:47,720
Thanks for having me. I want to let people know where they can find
980
01:23:47,720 --> 01:23:55,720
you, your Instagram, YouTube, stuff like that. Yeah, you can Sophia Yokoyama, Instagram, YouTube.
981
01:23:55,720 --> 01:24:01,000
And I'll keep you guys updated on the training app.
982
01:24:01,000 --> 01:24:05,200
I was on Facebook, but I mean, I still am on Facebook, but no one uses Facebook anymore.
983
01:24:05,200 --> 01:24:10,320
So I don't need Facebook. Okay. Okay. Cool. Awesome. And yeah, hopefully
984
01:24:10,320 --> 01:24:13,080
the training plan stuff works out. Thank you.
985
01:24:13,080 --> 01:24:16,240
Okay. Thank you. It was amazing to talk to you.
986
01:24:16,240 --> 01:24:19,440
Likewise. Thank you so much for making it to the end
987
01:24:19,440 --> 01:24:24,920
of the podcast. Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed. Otherwise you are a super
988
01:24:24,920 --> 01:24:30,120
big climber. If you're listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five
989
01:24:30,120 --> 01:24:35,720
stars and you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked
990
01:24:35,720 --> 01:25:03,360
in the description. Thanks again for listening.
