3: Jonathan Sin, Aspiring Pro Climber

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2 years.



Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Introduction

0:51 - Gumby to v11 in 2.5 years

3:03 - What is considered "training" for climbing?

3:55 - How did you stay mostly injury free?

7:27 - Hong Kong climbing scene

9:18 - Boulder or lead?

10:22 - Trying to become a pro climber in 6 months

14:49 - Did you have a coach? and my noob training Qs

18:56 - Why don’t you share your training plan?

21:15 - Try outs for the national team

22:42 - How much lead training did you do?

24:56 - How did you perform in lead?

28:20 - How do you rest?

31:46 - Your mental state during the competition?

34:03 - Making the national speed team

38:54 - Is there still hope for the national team in the future?

46:41 - Difference between a “normal” climber and a pro

51:50 - Why do you climb?

56:25 - Discord Q: Experience difference between you and climbers who grew up climbing

58:48 - Discord Q: How did you have the time and money to train?

1:03:46 - Outro, find him on Youtube!

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    Hello and welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.

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    I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Jonathan Sin.

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    If you're not familiar with his viral videos lately, he's a quote, normal climber trying

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    to break into the World Cups and turn pro.

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    In this episode, we'll talk about what it's like climbing in Hong Kong, his insane training

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    for national team tryouts, and what separates a really good normal climber from a pro climber.

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    It was really interesting digging into this story, which was also very personal for him

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    to share.

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    So I hope you enjoy this conversation with Jonathan.

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    Yes, okay, so we'll just get right into it.

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    You only started climbing in 2019 when you were 18 years old.

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    And I think you said that you climbed your first outdoor V13 after two and a half years

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    of climbing.

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    Is that right?

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    Oh, I think it was like a V11 actually.

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    Yeah, that's still a pretty crazy progression.

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    How did you manage that?

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    Oh, I mainly climbed a lot and then I was doing like training quite quickly, but I think

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    I had like a sports background, so it was quite easy for me to pick up sports.

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    Also, Hong Kong's climbing scene isn't massive, so it's quite easy to bump into like all the

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    other strongest climbers around and learn from them all the time.

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    So you think like learning from just like climbing with stronger climbers helped a lot?

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    I also like trained quite a bit as well.

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    Like after the first year, I got really into like fingerboarding, like campers and stuff.

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    But it was very outdoor specific that year.

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    And when you said you have a sports background, what kind of sports did you do before that?

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    I like skateboarded for like a lot of years and then I did rugby, badminton, cross country.

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    I did like quite a lot of stuff, but then I wasn't any good at any of them.

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    I guess I didn't have the same passion I did for climbing.

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    And so it was good to have like my attention and something that I really enjoy.

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    Yeah. What do you feel like made the difference for you between like climbing versus all the

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    other sports that you didn't have the passion for?

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    I think I enjoy doing all the other sports, but like when you think about like training,

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    I never enjoyed those moments.

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    It's always very boring and just exhausting.

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    But in climbing, I think I enjoy every single aspect of it.

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    Like even the training bit is just as enjoying as the actual climbing.

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    And there's just so much to it as well.

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    Like there's the outdoor climbing, indoors, even just within outdoor climbing,

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    there's so many different styles.

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    It just feels like I never get sick of it and there's always something new to learn

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    and something new to explore, which is very exciting.

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    Yeah. I wouldn't say a lot of people say they like the training part of climbing.

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    By training, does that mean to you just like strength training or also do you count like drills and stuff like that?

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    I would count like drills and stuff as training as well.

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    Like to me, training is when you have an intention for your climbing.

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    So even if I'm just going for climbing session, I consider it as training as well, as long as

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    the mindset for the day was I'm going to get in there and get better.

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    To me, that is training already.

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    But of course, there's also like the physical training.

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    Like I call it conditioning all the time.

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    So I just, if you just do weight or like fingerboarding or other exercises, I'll call that conditioning.

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    But no, to me, training is anything climbing related always.

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    And so with all your training, did you encounter any injuries while you were going through your progression so quickly?

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    I actually did get injured like very early on.

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    So around like three months in, my fingers starting swelling up and they were like so painful.

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    I think this was like, this is something like most beginners go through.

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    They just get into it too quickly.

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    I think especially for like most people, even people like coach, like if they have a sports background,

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    it's quite easy for the body to adapt to the climate.

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    But then the tendons aren't ready yet, even if like the rest of their body are like physically, they're very strong.

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    But then tendons just take a longer time to develop.

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    And I think I had like that same problem.

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    And then, oh, my fingers started hurting so bad.

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    I couldn't climb.

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    Like I think I got injured around three months.

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    Like I suffered on for another three and I was like, it's time to take a break.

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    And that took like three months.

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    It's time to take a break and I took like a three months break and then go back into it.

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    Oh, that's a pretty long break.

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    I took a break and like I still climbed, but I was very controlled about my climbing.

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    So no crimps at all on the really open-handed climbing and like nothing too powerful.

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    And then I was like doing my finger rehab, nod stop.

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    Yeah.

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    So it wasn't no climbing at all, but it was very controlled climbing.

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    Okay.

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    But you never, was it like a poly injury or did you, was it just like synobitis?

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    I think it's inflammation in the joints.

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    It wasn't a fully rupture, anything like that.

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    But all the joints were just very painful.

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    I couldn't even sleep a lot of times.

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    So like I wake up with like tears in my eyes with my joints hurting like a bit too bad.

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    Yeah, I was pretty glad.

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    Oh my gosh.

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    Okay.

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    That's pretty extreme.

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    I've definitely had like joint pain, but not to the point where I couldn't sleep from it.

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    So, huh.

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    Yeah.

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    I'm not sure what that is.

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    So other than that finger pain, injury, swelling, no other injuries?

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    No.

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    Oh, wow.

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    Okay.

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    I guess maybe like from your sports background, you kind of knew how to

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    manage the other parts of your body so that you didn't get injured.

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    I think it's weird to think about it, but I think it's actually a good thing to get injured so early

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    on into my climbing just because now that I've gotten injured, I know how to prevent it.

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    Or at least I'll find ways to prevent it to the best of my abilities.

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    Just because I know what you're missing out when you stop climbing.

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    It really sucks when you go into climbing gym while your friends are trying hard and just like

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    the other side, no, swing around and jog.

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    You can't really do much.

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    Can't try hard.

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    Yeah.

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    So I was a lot more careful whenever I feel like a bit of a tweak on anything.

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    And I would just slow it down and everything.

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    Okay.

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    That's good.

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    I think, I mean, I think even a lot of people who have gotten injured before struggle with

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    not getting injured again, just because I don't know, excitement of the moment.

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    Not something I've dealt with too much, but, and I guess you haven't either.

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    So I'll have to ask someone who has gotten injured a bunch.

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    So climbing scene in, you're in Hong Kong, right?

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    Yep.

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    Okay.

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    So yeah, what's the climbing scene like there?

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    I don't think we hear too much about it.

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    I think it's not to, it's not like very represented as a country and like

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    the world cups or there's not many videos about it.

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    So can you kind of give us an idea of what it's like?

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    So it's not the biggest of climbing scenes, but it's definitely a growing sport in Hong Kong.

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    There's been over like 15 gyms opening in the past year or two.

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    And they're around 30 ish gyms in Hong Kong at the moment.

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    And it's awesome.

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    Now there aren't too many people climbing.

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    I love beginners, but everyone's climbing.

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    Beginners, but everyone who's in it are really passionate.

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    The other scenes is really good as well.

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    There's a lot of boulders, like there are only like a few people who do developing.

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    So not too many, but definitely more than enough for most people.

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    It's a cool place to do outdoor climbing just because

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    if you do sport climbing here, there are cracks or you can have like the city as

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    there's got in the background, which is like really cool thing.

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    You know, the whole city as the backdrop, you would never get that anywhere else.

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    I don't think.

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    And it's really close by to the city as well because

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    Hong Kong's nature is very immersed into the city, I guess.

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    Like there'll be mountains and buildings right next to each other all the time.

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    And yeah, it's a great place to climb, I think.

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    Yeah, that's pretty cool.

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    Is it more bouldering or lead climbing?

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    There's a bit of both.

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    It's like pretty even split.

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    I think personally I've done more bouldering than sport climbing, but I like both.

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    You don't, do you have a preference?

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    I feel like you show a lot of bouldering, but I'm not sure if that's just because

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    it's like easier or because you prefer it.

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    I think it was just easier to start doing when I began climbing.

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    Experience in Hong Kong doesn't have any lead gyms or anything like that.

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    I just thought I wouldn't divert my focus too much.

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    I just want to dig into one side of things and get better at it.

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    I think at first I was really scared of sport climbing.

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    Really like leading and stuff was like quite scary to me, but I put some time into like

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    getting more comfortable with it.

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    And I actually really enjoy it for the past two years.

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    Like I don't do that often, but one day I'll have a great time just having that time to do it.

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    Yeah.

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    You think you're going to get more into it one day or you're going to stay?

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    Yeah, I think so.

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    I think so, especially like the outdoor stuff in Hong Kong that I want to do.

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    Like whatever I want to do next is probably going to be sport climbing and not bouldering.

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    You want to get that city backdrop in your photo.

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    I get it.

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    Yeah.

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    All right.

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    So speaking of the climbing scene in Hong Kong, let's get into the story of your dream

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    that you shared in your video.

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    So yeah, for those who haven't watched the video yet, I'll link it in the description

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    or the show notes first.

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    So pause it, watch or pause this, watch that video, then come back so you know the full story.

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    So can you give a brief overview of what your goal was and what you did to try and accomplish it?

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    So my goal was to get on to the national team for Hong Kong and maybe compete for the

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    World Championships.

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    To train for it, I trained not non-stop, but I used six months to have a really detailed

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    training plan, really stuck to it and then try my best to get on to the team at the end

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    of the six months, which we had like the national team selection.

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    That was the ball event and the league events.

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    I did six days of training a week.

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    Of course, there were rest days.

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    And I had maybe five, five of those six days, I would have like double sessions.

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    And it was all like really detailed and planned out.

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    It wasn't just going in like, oh, I'll climb as much as I can.

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    But everything was like planned out.

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    I had an intention for all my sessions.

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    I was talking to like some coaching friends who helped me out as well.

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    So first of all, you said six days a week.

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    And you said that you have rest days, but there are only seven days a week.

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    So how do you have rest days?

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    So I rested on like the seventh day, which I coach in the gym.

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    Some might not consider that as a resting, but yeah, I spend every day in the gym.

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    So I was doing like my training as like periods.

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    So every like two months, I will have like a month break and, you know, take a

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    few more days off just because the periodization of training and stuff.

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    But other than that, yeah, it was like once a week, I'll have rest day.

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    Yikes.

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    Okay.

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    Can you explain the periodization of training stuff for people who may not be aware?

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    So like for different focuses, I call them.

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    Uh, let's say if I have like really intense power phase at first, for me, it lasted

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    around eight weeks to 10 weeks.

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    I gotta look back to my notes to see what I actually did.

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    But, uh, I think for like a training period around 10, 12 weeks or eight weeks,

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    it's like, depending on person and what you're training, like the training

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    numbers sort of plateaus little, and then it's a good time to switch the stimulus

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    and train something else, at least from my research as what works.

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    And then it's good to switch things up every now and then, not doing the same

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    thing all the time because your body get used to the exercises as well as like

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    training load, so you don't gain too much more if you do the same thing.

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    And since I've like, I see myself doing a lot of training, I'm not doing

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    like, I see myself as someone who has like a lot of weaknesses.

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    So I'll be trying different stuff and then training different aspects of my

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    climbing.

    214

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    And you said that you had some friends who were coaches, but you didn't have

    215

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    like a dedicated coach for your program?

    216

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    No, so I have some friends who like work as coaches and then I've like

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    consultated with them and then I show them my training plan, they give me

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    some pointers and stuff, but no, I don't have a dedicated coach because I

    219

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    really would like one, but then Hong Kong doesn't have any coaches of that

    220

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    sort.

    221

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    And on like my part-time in climbing, it was like quite difficult to get the

    222

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    kind of coach I want as well because for comp climbing, it's just so specific

    223

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    and you got to have like really good knowledge, I think, to excel in comp

    224

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    climbing, especially for the level I wanted to get at, I think.

    225

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    I know, so I didn't have a coach.

    226

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    Well, it is super impressive that you managed to write up your own training

    227

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    plan and that it worked out pretty well for you.

    228

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    This is okay.

    229

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    Well, I guess kind of something I'm personally wondering because this is my

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    first time doing like a strength training session and I am so like I've

    231

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    never worked out before in my life.

    232

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    So this is like so new to me and I did like a workout for the first time and

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    I was so sore and I am still so sore like almost every single time I do it.

    234

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    And so I have to take like about two or three rest days before I start to feel

    235

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    not sore again.

    236

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    Does that not happen to you?

    237

    00:15:36,340 --> 00:15:40,500

    No, I definitely feel sore, but I don't know.

    238

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    Climb through it.

    239

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    I climbed through it, but then I think that would waste to prevent getting

    240

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    completely destroyed every time.

    241

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    Like, because I don't see my training as like a very short term thing, right?

    242

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    Because I know if I destroy myself on day one, it will affect my training for the rest.

    243

    00:16:00,900 --> 00:16:06,980

    I'm aiming for the long term when I train or like still when I train or when I climb.

    244

    00:16:08,420 --> 00:16:11,460

    Let's say like an easy example would be like skin, right?

    245

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    If you go so hard on day one that you're going through your tips and you're

    246

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    bleeding, that's no way you can try hard again the next few days, at least for

    247

    00:16:21,700 --> 00:16:22,980

    like three, four days for me.

    248

    00:16:22,980 --> 00:16:24,100

    Right.

    249

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    Unless you tape and stuff and you don't climb as well.

    250

    00:16:26,100 --> 00:16:28,500

    And to me, that's the same with physical training.

    251

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    If you completely destroy yourself on day one, the rest of your week is all messed up.

    252

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    So I rather have a lighter session.

    253

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    Then I can continue training for the next few days and do it consistently.

    254

    00:16:45,140 --> 00:16:51,380

    Because I find consistency is way more important than just having one super

    255

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    intense session or like even if you talk about like training periods, if I go super

    256

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    hard for a week and then I gotta, the motivation goes lower because I'm so sore and I'm so

    257

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    destroyed, there's no point to it if you can't stick to it.

    258

    00:17:06,980 --> 00:17:15,380

    So personally, I'd rather have the consistency than like an insane intensity or at

    259

    00:17:15,380 --> 00:17:18,740

    least like to the level where it's manageable personally.

    260

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    Yeah.

    261

    00:17:19,300 --> 00:17:20,900

    Yeah.

    262

    00:17:20,900 --> 00:17:24,900

    And I mean, you said that you were going, I mean, you were going almost every day.

    263

    00:17:27,140 --> 00:17:35,300

    Was there a way for you to, I guess, like train different parts of your body so that

    264

    00:17:35,300 --> 00:17:42,100

    you weren't completely destroyed and constantly in like a state of being under recovered?

    265

    00:17:42,820 --> 00:17:46,420

    Well, so just like people who would do like a normal gym session, right?

    266

    00:17:46,420 --> 00:17:51,940

    They'll split their workouts into like, Oh, upper body, push day, back, push day and pull

    267

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    day, like, and then you do a leg day and then you have rest day core.

    268

    00:17:56,260 --> 00:18:00,740

    Like you can do it in splits like that, but for me, the climbing will slip into different

    269

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    aspects of climbing.

    270

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    So let's say I do like a three day split usually, day one will be power and the highest

    271

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    intensity stuff.

    272

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    So right after rest day, I'll again see the most high intensity workouts and climbs on

    273

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    that day.

    274

    00:18:20,180 --> 00:18:22,420

    Uh, day two, I'll focus more on volume.

    275

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    So I'll climb a lot more at a lower intensity, but working on other skills.

    276

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    Right?

    277

    00:18:28,020 --> 00:18:31,060

    So day one is a lot about pushing the limit.

    278

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    Day two is about getting fitter.

    279

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    And for my day three, I usually do either jumps or volume or I'll do slabs or maybe

    280

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    some circuits.

    281

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    So day one is the most intense.

    282

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    Day two volume, day three is technique work or just some sort of resting for the body,

    283

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    but you're still learning and technique stuff.

    284

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    Yeah, that makes sense.

    285

    00:18:56,900 --> 00:19:03,860

    Um, and so, yeah, that's sort of sounds a little bit like your, um, personal training

    286

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    plan.

    287

    00:19:04,500 --> 00:19:08,660

    Um, I know a lot of people ask about your personal training plan.

    288

    00:19:08,660 --> 00:19:13,860

    Um, but you don't, you mentioned that you don't exactly give that out too much.

    289

    00:19:13,860 --> 00:19:15,620

    Um, do you want to explain that?

    290

    00:19:15,620 --> 00:19:24,180

    Yeah, just because my, like my own training plan, I think is, was very specific to me

    291

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    and tailor made to my own weaknesses.

    292

    00:19:26,980 --> 00:19:28,260

    So it's very nice.

    293

    00:19:28,260 --> 00:19:29,540

    I love you are interested.

    294

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    I really appreciate it.

    295

    00:19:30,580 --> 00:19:33,300

    And like, I guess a lot of people want to get better together.

    296

    00:19:33,300 --> 00:19:34,900

    Um, I love it.

    297

    00:19:34,900 --> 00:19:38,900

    I love the excitement people have for their own progression and stuff.

    298

    00:19:38,900 --> 00:19:42,660

    But yeah, I don't really give out my own training plans.

    299

    00:19:42,660 --> 00:19:48,340

    Like I thought about including that in the video, but I only include the major principles

    300

    00:19:48,340 --> 00:19:48,980

    I had.

    301

    00:19:49,620 --> 00:19:54,100

    And I think those alone, if people were to make their own training plans, I think

    302

    00:19:54,100 --> 00:19:58,660

    their own training plans, I would just go according to those principles.

    303

    00:19:58,660 --> 00:20:06,980

    And the details I had don't matter quite as much to me because the plan was made for

    304

    00:20:06,980 --> 00:20:07,700

    my weaknesses.

    305

    00:20:07,700 --> 00:20:16,820

    Hey, cause I have those specific training workouts because I'm, let's say my fingers

    306

    00:20:16,820 --> 00:20:19,380

    are weak for like a lot.

    307

    00:20:19,380 --> 00:20:23,380

    When I do like longer duration hangs, I can have a really high load.

    308

    00:20:23,380 --> 00:20:30,260

    If I do seven second intensity hang rather, but then I have a really quick drop off

    309

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    after 10 seconds.

    310

    00:20:31,620 --> 00:20:36,660

    So to me, it was more important to train a longer hang rather than a very short intense

    311

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    one.

    312

    00:20:37,860 --> 00:20:40,580

    Just like small specifics like that.

    313

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    I don't think it applies to everyone.

    314

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    And if I don't know the other person's training background or like what level

    315

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    they are at, as well as their own style, I hesitate to give out anything that might

    316

    00:20:53,060 --> 00:20:57,620

    get them injured or maybe just isn't the most efficient way.

    317

    00:20:57,620 --> 00:20:58,420

    Yeah.

    318

    00:20:58,420 --> 00:20:59,780

    Yeah, that definitely makes sense.

    319

    00:20:59,780 --> 00:21:05,700

    I think it's very, training can be like very personal or not can be.

    320

    00:21:05,700 --> 00:21:06,740

    I think it like should be.

    321

    00:21:07,380 --> 00:21:10,100

    So yeah, I think that makes a lot of sense to me.

    322

    00:21:10,100 --> 00:21:10,500

    Okay.

    323

    00:21:10,500 --> 00:21:18,500

    So going back to the actual competition and your team trials, walk me through the

    324

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    process of signing up for team selection.

    325

    00:21:21,540 --> 00:21:24,260

    Was it just as simple as signing up for that one?

    326

    00:21:25,300 --> 00:21:30,660

    I guess like trial competition, or do you have to like perform at a certain level at

    327

    00:21:30,660 --> 00:21:32,420

    previous competitions going into it?

    328

    00:21:32,900 --> 00:21:33,780

    What's it like there?

    329

    00:21:34,660 --> 00:21:38,340

    So in Hong Kong, there isn't much of a barrier to entry.

    330

    00:21:38,660 --> 00:21:41,700

    Like if you want to trial for the team, you just have to sign up.

    331

    00:21:41,700 --> 00:21:48,340

    They do require for the boys team, I think they require like you to climb outdoor V7

    332

    00:21:48,340 --> 00:21:49,860

    and 7C, I think.

    333

    00:21:49,860 --> 00:21:55,140

    They make you write it on the paper, but I don't think that means much to be honest.

    334

    00:21:55,140 --> 00:21:57,460

    A lot of people just write it anyways.

    335

    00:21:57,460 --> 00:21:58,420

    Yeah.

    336

    00:21:58,420 --> 00:22:02,100

    Yeah, they start, but then yeah, no, there's no barriers to entry.

    337

    00:22:02,100 --> 00:22:04,260

    You can just sign up and then you can do the comps.

    338

    00:22:04,260 --> 00:22:04,740

    Yeah.

    339

    00:22:04,740 --> 00:22:10,500

    I guess is it maybe they just haven't like developed a super like rigorous program for

    340

    00:22:10,500 --> 00:22:12,500

    it, or is there just not as much interest?

    341

    00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:14,500

    I think that's both.

    342

    00:22:14,500 --> 00:22:16,740

    Like there's definitely quite a bit of interest.

    343

    00:22:16,740 --> 00:22:18,180

    Quite a lot of people tried out.

    344

    00:22:18,180 --> 00:22:26,820

    But then the system, like the sport climbing organization stuff, there just isn't too much

    345

    00:22:26,820 --> 00:22:27,380

    stuff.

    346

    00:22:27,380 --> 00:22:31,860

    Like people who do it are like quite dedicated to help out, but there isn't too much of a

    347

    00:22:31,860 --> 00:22:33,700

    support or anything like that.

    348

    00:22:33,700 --> 00:22:37,140

    So there's a lot of resources and all that.

    349

    00:22:37,140 --> 00:22:42,020

    So yeah, they're just the comp and that's it.

    350

    00:22:42,020 --> 00:22:46,100

    And in your video, you showed a lot of boulder preparation.

    351

    00:22:46,100 --> 00:22:48,900

    You didn't so much show the lead portion of it.

    352

    00:22:48,900 --> 00:22:52,500

    What was your lead training like?

    353

    00:22:52,500 --> 00:22:56,820

    Like how often did you practice lead climbing?

    354

    00:22:56,820 --> 00:23:00,020

    And then was it like a combined score at the end?

    355

    00:23:00,020 --> 00:23:04,020

    So yeah, it was like a combined format.

    356

    00:23:04,020 --> 00:23:06,740

    They add up the points from two comps.

    357

    00:23:06,740 --> 00:23:11,060

    So we have the boulder selection first and then a month later, actually more than a month

    358

    00:23:11,060 --> 00:23:13,060

    later, then we'll have the lead.

    359

    00:23:13,060 --> 00:23:18,100

    So in my training, like I said, I separated my training into different parts before I had

    360

    00:23:18,100 --> 00:23:19,300

    different periods.

    361

    00:23:19,300 --> 00:23:23,540

    So for period one, it was volume based.

    362

    00:23:23,540 --> 00:23:29,860

    It was very much just trying to get fit, do a lot of reps, but then not too intense.

    363

    00:23:29,860 --> 00:23:36,740

    Second period is starting to wrap up the intensity because the end of that is the boulder selections.

    364

    00:23:36,740 --> 00:23:43,540

    For the third period, it's a lot about getting endurance and power endurance.

    365

    00:23:43,540 --> 00:23:51,620

    So I had around six weeks before the lead selection and that's after the boulder selections.

    366

    00:23:51,620 --> 00:23:54,420

    I did around three days of lead a week.

    367

    00:23:54,420 --> 00:24:00,180

    I didn't show that too much in the video just because I thought what I showed was enough

    368

    00:24:00,180 --> 00:24:07,140

    to show how much work I was doing already and I didn't think that was like, in the videos

    369

    00:24:07,140 --> 00:24:09,940

    I had of my lead climbing was just really blurry.

    370

    00:24:09,940 --> 00:24:14,420

    So I didn't include that, but yeah, I did do quite a lot for lead as well.

    371

    00:24:14,420 --> 00:24:18,820

    That's what made it hurt more, I guess, at the end when I couldn't perform.

    372

    00:24:18,820 --> 00:24:24,420

    But no, I trained three days lead a week and then I just saw a really good progression

    373

    00:24:24,420 --> 00:24:28,340

    as well, because as I told you, I'm not really a lead climber.

    374

    00:24:28,340 --> 00:24:37,700

    But I think I was at the lead gym, I was struggling to climb a 7C to start with, maybe even 7B.

    375

    00:24:37,700 --> 00:24:44,340

    And then by the end of the six weeks, I was climbing three in a row and that made quite

    376

    00:24:44,340 --> 00:24:45,620

    a big difference, I think.

    377

    00:24:45,620 --> 00:24:52,020

    So going into it physically for a lead comp, I thought I was very ready.

    378

    00:24:52,020 --> 00:24:53,060

    So yeah.

    379

    00:24:53,060 --> 00:24:55,540

    How did you end up doing in the lead portion?

    380

    00:24:55,540 --> 00:24:58,500

    Uh, horrendous.

    381

    00:24:58,500 --> 00:25:00,820

    Absolutely horrendous.

    382

    00:25:00,820 --> 00:25:05,060

    So for qualification, we had two climbs.

    383

    00:25:05,060 --> 00:25:07,380

    I did okay on one, I guess.

    384

    00:25:07,380 --> 00:25:10,500

    Like I managed to try hard and fail because I was pumped.

    385

    00:25:10,500 --> 00:25:15,940

    But the first one was just the one that hurt the most was the beginning section was just

    386

    00:25:15,940 --> 00:25:17,300

    a jug hole, I think.

    387

    00:25:17,300 --> 00:25:19,860

    It was like very easy climbing.

    388

    00:25:19,860 --> 00:25:27,460

    But then once you get by the headwall, suddenly it gets quite hard.

    389

    00:25:27,460 --> 00:25:33,300

    And I had like a small, I remember like distinctly right before the hard section, which the cold

    390

    00:25:33,300 --> 00:25:34,660

    solid became much worse.

    391

    00:25:34,660 --> 00:25:38,820

    I had like a small break and was like resting, shaking out.

    392

    00:25:38,820 --> 00:25:45,220

    And then the first hold I grabbed, my hand just like let go of something.

    393

    00:25:45,220 --> 00:25:45,940

    I don't know.

    394

    00:25:45,940 --> 00:25:47,460

    I really don't know what happened.

    395

    00:25:47,460 --> 00:25:49,860

    I think my whole body was so soft.

    396

    00:25:49,860 --> 00:25:53,700

    I was like, I just didn't know what happened.

    397

    00:25:53,700 --> 00:25:59,780

    I was just like peeled off, didn't try hard, came down with like no pump at all.

    398

    00:26:00,580 --> 00:26:01,080

    Oh.

    399

    00:26:02,260 --> 00:26:04,100

    Yeah, it was weird.

    400

    00:26:04,100 --> 00:26:07,220

    My body just like gave out like somehow.

    401

    00:26:08,100 --> 00:26:10,660

    Yeah, it was very weird just the moment.

    402

    00:26:11,220 --> 00:26:12,580

    Wasn't like a slip or anything?

    403

    00:26:13,540 --> 00:26:14,660

    No, don't think so.

    404

    00:26:14,660 --> 00:26:19,220

    I think I hit the hole and everything just couldn't engage in the thing.

    405

    00:26:21,540 --> 00:26:28,500

    Yeah, I think I was laughing when I came down just because it was so, I think it was funny

    406

    00:26:28,500 --> 00:26:29,060

    in some sense.

    407

    00:26:29,060 --> 00:26:32,500

    So like I don't know if it's working.

    408

    00:26:32,500 --> 00:26:33,620

    That's what I have to show.

    409

    00:26:35,620 --> 00:26:37,620

    But yeah, I think it was more like a painful laugh.

    410

    00:26:38,660 --> 00:26:43,380

    Yeah, I guess at that point, did you kind of already know that you weren't going to

    411

    00:26:43,380 --> 00:26:45,460

    make it on the team?

    412

    00:26:45,460 --> 00:26:46,820

    Yeah, I think so.

    413

    00:26:46,820 --> 00:26:51,460

    Because I think the score to get into semis was, semis finals was quite high.

    414

    00:26:53,380 --> 00:26:59,140

    So I knew if I messed up the first one, I had to basically top out the other one,

    415

    00:26:59,140 --> 00:27:00,660

    which no one has topped yet, I think.

    416

    00:27:01,460 --> 00:27:05,780

    Or at least I knew it was going to be a lot harder than the easy one.

    417

    00:27:05,780 --> 00:27:08,820

    So I didn't have much hope.

    418

    00:27:09,700 --> 00:27:11,220

    Oh, that's a shame.

    419

    00:27:11,220 --> 00:27:12,180

    Okay.

    420

    00:27:14,180 --> 00:27:18,180

    And you said that the lead competition was a month after the bouldering one?

    421

    00:27:18,820 --> 00:27:19,300

    Yep.

    422

    00:27:20,100 --> 00:27:21,060

    Oh, okay.

    423

    00:27:21,060 --> 00:27:28,180

    Do you think that is kind of not a great way of going about it?

    424

    00:27:28,180 --> 00:27:34,740

    Because at like the World Cups and stuff, it's kind of like one day after the other,

    425

    00:27:35,460 --> 00:27:35,940

    no rest.

    426

    00:27:35,940 --> 00:27:41,860

    No rest. That's not my choice, right? But I think if you consider yourself as an athlete,

    427

    00:27:41,860 --> 00:27:47,380

    or like what I admire most about like the boulders I follow or like the climbers I follow,

    428

    00:27:47,380 --> 00:27:51,540

    is that they can perform at any time, whatever discipline it is.

    429

    00:27:51,540 --> 00:27:57,940

    So if you're given a plan or given the day to perform, you just do it according to that.

    430

    00:27:57,940 --> 00:28:00,580

    It's out of my control when the cop is going to be.

    431

    00:28:00,580 --> 00:28:05,380

    What I can do is prepare for it to the best of my abilities.

    432

    00:28:06,100 --> 00:28:12,660

    And of course, people complain about the date of climbing being so far apart,

    433

    00:28:12,660 --> 00:28:15,620

    two disciplines, all that and all that.

    434

    00:28:15,620 --> 00:28:20,820

    But to me, it's like everyone faces the same circumstances.

    435

    00:28:20,820 --> 00:28:22,180

    You just try your best.

    436

    00:28:22,180 --> 00:28:29,300

    Okay. So actually going into the comp, what does your rest sort of look like

    437

    00:28:29,300 --> 00:28:30,580

    before competition day?

    438

    00:28:32,660 --> 00:28:38,020

    So I actually start tapering around a week and a half, two weeks out.

    439

    00:28:38,020 --> 00:28:42,740

    I start lowering the volume a lot. I'll take out a lot of physical conditioning.

    440

    00:28:42,740 --> 00:28:48,100

    I'll just leave in the most intense ones to keep the intensity at a really high level,

    441

    00:28:48,100 --> 00:28:50,180

    but then take out a lot of volume.

    442

    00:28:50,180 --> 00:28:55,700

    So I'll do maybe half the sets of certain things, some things I'll completely take out.

    443

    00:28:55,700 --> 00:28:58,900

    Just focus on climbing, have way shorter sessions,

    444

    00:28:58,900 --> 00:29:02,180

    just my body is sharp in that sense.

    445

    00:29:02,820 --> 00:29:05,620

    I know how to try hard, but I'm not destroying myself.

    446

    00:29:06,180 --> 00:29:12,500

    Like really slowly taping my body and be fully ready at the comp.

    447

    00:29:12,500 --> 00:29:14,100

    And so are you like climbing?

    448

    00:29:16,420 --> 00:29:19,620

    Do you just like completely stop climbing before the competition?

    449

    00:29:19,620 --> 00:29:24,420

    I know some people do like a full day of rest or full two days of rest.

    450

    00:29:24,420 --> 00:29:28,260

    So what I kept in was my maximum days.

    451

    00:29:28,260 --> 00:29:34,500

    So I kept the max finger boarding at least up to like a week before the comp.

    452

    00:29:34,500 --> 00:29:40,900

    I kept my max finger boarding and max pull ups and like some swaps and all that.

    453

    00:29:41,780 --> 00:29:46,740

    But really just do like one or two sets, like really low volume compared to like

    454

    00:29:46,740 --> 00:29:47,860

    what I was training before.

    455

    00:29:47,860 --> 00:29:51,860

    Climbing was doing maybe two to three days in general for like the six.

    456

    00:29:51,860 --> 00:29:55,300

    Just have a lot more rest and then get good sleep and all that.

    457

    00:29:55,300 --> 00:30:03,300

    And so then during the actual competition, I guess not just at this competition,

    458

    00:30:03,300 --> 00:30:06,740

    but any other ones that you did for preparation.

    459

    00:30:08,500 --> 00:30:12,180

    Where are you mentally during the competitions?

    460

    00:30:12,180 --> 00:30:17,220

    Like, are you freaking out or do you find some way to kind of get yourself under control?

    461

    00:30:18,500 --> 00:30:20,340

    I was all over the place.

    462

    00:30:20,340 --> 00:30:26,580

    I haven't had much competition experience before the last season, like this year, really.

    463

    00:30:26,580 --> 00:30:31,220

    Just because of COVID and Hong Kong has had too many comps.

    464

    00:30:31,220 --> 00:30:36,340

    I've had some, but there were very few and far between and like the quality of competitions.

    465

    00:30:36,340 --> 00:30:37,620

    Also like they've had a lot.

    466

    00:30:37,620 --> 00:30:42,900

    So it was the most packed season I've had ever.

    467

    00:30:42,900 --> 00:30:47,620

    So I think in the beginning of season, I was like really freaking out.

    468

    00:30:47,620 --> 00:30:52,980

    I was like, I couldn't climb my best at all and the timing of stuff, warming up and the

    469

    00:30:52,980 --> 00:30:56,980

    whole process of going to a comp was all a mess.

    470

    00:30:56,980 --> 00:31:01,140

    But I think by the end of season, I was like, personally, I think the mindset for climbing

    471

    00:31:01,140 --> 00:31:01,860

    is very different.

    472

    00:31:01,860 --> 00:31:06,820

    Some people go into it with the mindset of like, I'm going to destroy everybody and extremely

    473

    00:31:06,820 --> 00:31:09,540

    confident I'm going to top all the balls.

    474

    00:31:09,540 --> 00:31:15,940

    But for me, it's more, if I enjoy the climb more and think less about it, I'm going to

    475

    00:31:15,940 --> 00:31:20,740

    enjoy the climb more and think less about the result or like others.

    476

    00:31:20,740 --> 00:31:22,980

    To me, I perform better.

    477

    00:31:22,980 --> 00:31:25,060

    Like that's just for me.

    478

    00:31:25,060 --> 00:31:31,140

    Like I think competition mindset or like just mindset in climbing is very individual.

    479

    00:31:31,140 --> 00:31:33,060

    It works differently for everybody.

    480

    00:31:33,060 --> 00:31:36,420

    For me, if I enjoy it, don't think about the result too much.

    481

    00:31:36,420 --> 00:31:39,540

    I tend to perform the best, which is kind of funny.

    482

    00:31:39,540 --> 00:31:41,540

    It's like you always want to win in the comp.

    483

    00:31:41,540 --> 00:31:45,860

    But for me, if I don't think about the win, then I'm not winning and something like that.

    484

    00:31:45,860 --> 00:31:48,020

    So it's quite funny in that sense.

    485

    00:31:49,060 --> 00:31:55,380

    Did you manage to get into that just have fun mindset when you were doing the team trials

    486

    00:31:55,380 --> 00:31:56,100

    or were you-

    487

    00:31:56,740 --> 00:32:04,820

    Actually, yeah, like the Boulder selections was one of the best comic-comic things I had.

    488

    00:32:05,620 --> 00:32:11,060

    I think to me, what it means to have a good performance if you try really hard and manage

    489

    00:32:11,060 --> 00:32:12,980

    to show what you've got, right?

    490

    00:32:12,980 --> 00:32:18,900

    Like how many boulders are top at the end, to me almost doesn't matter.

    491

    00:32:18,900 --> 00:32:19,860

    Like of course it does.

    492

    00:32:19,860 --> 00:32:26,260

    But to me, like a true sign that my training work was I could really try my best on the

    493

    00:32:26,260 --> 00:32:26,660

    Boulder.

    494

    00:32:26,660 --> 00:32:31,460

    If my ability isn't there, it isn't there, but I'm there to test myself, right?

    495

    00:32:31,460 --> 00:32:35,300

    If I can pull my best level out there, that's really good to me.

    496

    00:32:36,500 --> 00:32:40,020

    I did have like a slight mistake, which cost me like four or five places.

    497

    00:32:40,020 --> 00:32:43,060

    But I enjoyed climbing so much and it was so much fun.

    498

    00:32:43,060 --> 00:32:43,700

    Awesome.

    499

    00:32:43,700 --> 00:32:46,820

    So what did you end up placing in the end?

    500

    00:32:46,820 --> 00:32:50,900

    I was 12th at the end, for the combined.

    501

    00:32:52,420 --> 00:32:56,580

    And then they took eight or nine, I think.

    502

    00:32:56,580 --> 00:32:57,060

    Yeah.

    503

    00:32:57,060 --> 00:32:58,580

    Yeah, that's not bad at all.

    504

    00:32:58,580 --> 00:33:03,860

    Was it just like qualifiers or you were also in semis?

    505

    00:33:03,860 --> 00:33:13,780

    Semis? So our board selection had no, had only one round of comp.

    506

    00:33:13,780 --> 00:33:17,380

    So we had one round of comp versus rotation comp.

    507

    00:33:17,380 --> 00:33:20,660

    We had six boulders, five minutes each.

    508

    00:33:20,660 --> 00:33:24,020

    And then your result is just based on that.

    509

    00:33:25,380 --> 00:33:28,660

    The lead, we had qualifiers and then straight to finals.

    510

    00:33:29,380 --> 00:33:33,060

    So not the most established comp ever.

    511

    00:33:33,060 --> 00:33:38,340

    But I think the right people got in and the right people ended up representing the team.

    512

    00:33:38,340 --> 00:33:41,940

    And I think it was right.

    513

    00:33:41,940 --> 00:33:47,700

    I think if you look at a team, I'm not at the level where I need to be.

    514

    00:33:47,700 --> 00:33:51,780

    And the people who are the best are at the top.

    515

    00:33:51,780 --> 00:33:55,620

    So in that sense, I think the comp worked out.

    516

    00:33:55,620 --> 00:34:02,180

    It's not the most traditional comp and definitely not the most comprehensive stuff.

    517

    00:34:02,180 --> 00:34:04,180

    But I think it was fine.

    518

    00:34:04,180 --> 00:34:06,740

    Well, you'll have more chances eventually.

    519

    00:34:08,180 --> 00:34:14,180

    And so one thing that I think you did make it in for, I'm not entirely sure.

    520

    00:34:15,140 --> 00:34:17,780

    You do some speed climbing, right?

    521

    00:34:18,500 --> 00:34:18,900

    Yeah.

    522

    00:34:18,900 --> 00:34:23,780

    So maybe in the middle of that six month training block I had, they had a speed team selection.

    523

    00:34:24,980 --> 00:34:27,780

    And I guess, you know, I was doing so much physical training.

    524

    00:34:27,780 --> 00:34:30,740

    I was, my body was quite ready for that.

    525

    00:34:30,740 --> 00:34:37,540

    And the speed training, I'm not sure how it works in our teams, but in Hong Kong, our team had like

    526

    00:34:39,380 --> 00:34:43,780

    a certain portion of the selection to be like just physical training.

    527

    00:34:43,780 --> 00:34:48,980

    I guess the physical elements of speed climbing is very important as well.

    528

    00:34:48,980 --> 00:34:55,540

    So doing weight to like testing, I guess, just lifting weights and stuff was like part of the test.

    529

    00:34:55,540 --> 00:34:56,820

    And that did quite well on that.

    530

    00:34:56,820 --> 00:35:02,820

    I guess it's a combination of that and that the coaches saw that I had hope, maybe.

    531

    00:35:03,780 --> 00:35:05,380

    The potentials in these speed climbing.

    532

    00:35:05,380 --> 00:35:09,780

    So they let me into the team and yeah, now I'm on the team for speed climbing.

    533

    00:35:10,580 --> 00:35:11,300

    Oh, okay.

    534

    00:35:11,300 --> 00:35:13,380

    So, well, congrats.

    535

    00:35:14,100 --> 00:35:16,500

    What do you do for that?

    536

    00:35:16,500 --> 00:35:19,460

    Like, do you travel around as part of the national team?

    537

    00:35:21,300 --> 00:35:22,100

    No.

    538

    00:35:22,100 --> 00:35:31,220

    So supposedly we're supposed to have a comp in September where we have Asian champs or Asian comp.

    539

    00:35:31,220 --> 00:35:37,300

    One of the big comps, it would be like my first IFSC comp, but then there's something went wrong

    540

    00:35:37,300 --> 00:35:40,740

    with the sign-up process within the team, some bureaucracy stuff.

    541

    00:35:41,620 --> 00:35:42,820

    So now we're not going.

    542

    00:35:42,820 --> 00:35:43,220

    Oh no.

    543

    00:35:44,580 --> 00:35:47,300

    But in the future, I'll be going to some comps for sure.

    544

    00:35:48,260 --> 00:35:48,760

    Okay.

    545

    00:35:48,760 --> 00:35:52,840

    Just like within Asia or like world level?

    546

    00:35:52,840 --> 00:36:01,240

    I think it will depend on my ranking in the next team trials or that they will have like periods

    547

    00:36:01,240 --> 00:36:05,320

    where they test you and they just change your ranking every now and then.

    548

    00:36:05,320 --> 00:36:08,840

    They have like a, they will have like a simulate comp within the team,

    549

    00:36:08,840 --> 00:36:11,640

    just to determine the ranking and who goes to comps.

    550

    00:36:11,640 --> 00:36:13,320

    So that would be horrible.

    551

    00:36:13,320 --> 00:36:17,880

    But I just want to say like, so technically if my goal was getting national team,

    552

    00:36:17,880 --> 00:36:24,760

    I sort of made it, but it's different because the Boulder team,

    553

    00:36:24,760 --> 00:36:27,800

    Boulder league team is separate to the speed team.

    554

    00:36:28,760 --> 00:36:34,280

    And my goal, when I sent out my goal, it wasn't getting to speed at all.

    555

    00:36:34,280 --> 00:36:35,560

    That wasn't even an option.

    556

    00:36:37,160 --> 00:36:42,920

    So I don't think I counted that as, no, making my dream happen.

    557

    00:36:42,920 --> 00:36:48,120

    It's just the circumstances just happens to fall that way.

    558

    00:36:48,120 --> 00:36:53,960

    And if it's not something I really worked hard for, I don't think it matters quite as much.

    559

    00:36:54,600 --> 00:36:58,120

    At least to me, that's not what my end goal was.

    560

    00:36:58,120 --> 00:36:59,400

    It just so happens.

    561

    00:36:59,400 --> 00:37:02,600

    I was, I almost considered it was just luck, right?

    562

    00:37:02,600 --> 00:37:04,360

    I lost to me.

    563

    00:37:04,360 --> 00:37:10,600

    So I wasn't, I didn't count that as, you know, making my goal happen.

    564

    00:37:10,600 --> 00:37:13,480

    Yeah, I think that makes sense.

    565

    00:37:13,480 --> 00:37:17,800

    I mean, it's not really the thing you set out to do, but it happened anyway.

    566

    00:37:19,400 --> 00:37:22,760

    But I mean, I wouldn't say it's fully luck.

    567

    00:37:22,760 --> 00:37:28,840

    Like they, I mean, they must have seen your climbing and decided that you would at least

    568

    00:37:28,840 --> 00:37:31,240

    be decent enough for the speed team.

    569

    00:37:32,200 --> 00:37:33,560

    It's not like they take anyone.

    570

    00:37:34,680 --> 00:37:34,920

    Yeah.

    571

    00:37:35,480 --> 00:37:39,560

    I guess like I was good enough to do it just because of my training in

    572

    00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:43,960

    bordering and lead just because I was doing so much training and like my style as well

    573

    00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:46,360

    is quite dynamic and explosive.

    574

    00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:49,000

    So I guess that fit into it as well.

    575

    00:37:49,640 --> 00:37:51,480

    But yeah, I don't know.

    576

    00:37:51,480 --> 00:37:52,760

    I'll try hard on it.

    577

    00:37:52,760 --> 00:37:54,200

    I really appreciate the opportunity.

    578

    00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:59,000

    We've been trying our best to train, but that's all a mess as well.

    579

    00:37:59,880 --> 00:38:01,160

    Um, yeah.

    580

    00:38:01,160 --> 00:38:01,640

    How so?

    581

    00:38:02,360 --> 00:38:04,520

    We only have like a day training a week.

    582

    00:38:05,080 --> 00:38:08,760

    Like they've only assigned one day of training and there aren't any indoor

    583

    00:38:08,760 --> 00:38:11,160

    walls to do speed climbing in Holocaust.

    584

    00:38:11,160 --> 00:38:15,640

    And to use the auto belay system, you got to have like teams approval and using

    585

    00:38:15,640 --> 00:38:19,960

    a lot of timers and stuff, unless they have like the big sign off from the team.

    586

    00:38:19,960 --> 00:38:21,160

    You can't use any of this stuff.

    587

    00:38:21,720 --> 00:38:26,040

    You can do like your top row with a mate to pull you up the speed wall, but

    588

    00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:31,720

    it just doesn't work if you want to have proper training session.

    589

    00:38:32,440 --> 00:38:36,440

    So it's been a bit annoying, but hopefully that will improve soon.

    590

    00:38:36,440 --> 00:38:39,240

    I've never considered top roping a speed route.

    591

    00:38:39,240 --> 00:38:43,240

    I feel like that could almost be more dangerous, a lot more dangerous.

    592

    00:38:43,240 --> 00:38:43,720

    It works.

    593

    00:38:43,720 --> 00:38:45,240

    It's just very slow and.

    594

    00:38:48,120 --> 00:38:52,440

    It works when you're really figuring the beginning moves, but if you get

    595

    00:38:52,440 --> 00:38:57,000

    getting anywhere to like, if you want to improve properly, it's not the way.

    596

    00:38:58,200 --> 00:38:59,160

    Yeah, makes sense.

    597

    00:39:00,600 --> 00:39:01,080

    Okay.

    598

    00:39:01,080 --> 00:39:09,240

    So at the end of your video, you kind of made it sound like you were giving up

    599

    00:39:09,240 --> 00:39:15,880

    on your dream and you kind of made it sound like you think that it's actually

    600

    00:39:15,880 --> 00:39:17,880

    kind of a crazy dream to begin with.

    601

    00:39:19,480 --> 00:39:26,680

    But I think from a viewer's perspective, it looks like you got really far and

    602

    00:39:26,680 --> 00:39:31,320

    you're still pretty young and there's selection again in two years.

    603

    00:39:31,320 --> 00:39:34,760

    So are you still feeling that way?

    604

    00:39:34,760 --> 00:39:38,680

    Like you still feel like it's, it was just a dream and that it's not

    605

    00:39:38,680 --> 00:39:40,120

    actually something you can accomplish.

    606

    00:39:41,880 --> 00:39:47,480

    Well, the whole thing about the training for six months, why, why the reason why

    607

    00:39:47,480 --> 00:39:53,000

    it was different from what I had done before, like I was training a lot already.

    608

    00:39:53,000 --> 00:39:53,240

    Right?

    609

    00:39:53,240 --> 00:39:56,520

    Like I said, like a few years ago, I was like climbing quite hard.

    610

    00:39:56,520 --> 00:40:00,520

    I was quite outdoors and I really tried my best to train for that.

    611

    00:40:01,480 --> 00:40:07,000

    But then it was different because it was not a consistent training and I had like

    612

    00:40:07,000 --> 00:40:13,320

    school in between, so there was quite a lot of distractions, but like for the

    613

    00:40:13,320 --> 00:40:18,440

    past few months, like not all of the last six months, but like for the majority of

    614

    00:40:19,000 --> 00:40:25,000

    majority of it, I finished uni and I really dedicated a lot of time to climbing

    615

    00:40:25,000 --> 00:40:29,960

    and training and I think for the level I want to be at, especially people at the

    616

    00:40:29,960 --> 00:40:33,320

    top, they're definitely training full time.

    617

    00:40:33,880 --> 00:40:38,040

    Especially if I'm like so far behind, I started so much laces and most people

    618

    00:40:38,040 --> 00:40:44,440

    who are at that level, I think it'll be, it is quite crazy to think that I can

    619

    00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:45,960

    catch up, I think.

    620

    00:40:46,600 --> 00:40:52,840

    Like I've done quite well, I think in terms of how far I've come and how

    621

    00:40:52,840 --> 00:40:57,880

    my goal I am, but it's just that I'm not sure.

    622

    00:40:57,880 --> 00:41:00,600

    I've been trying to figure it out for the past few months.

    623

    00:41:00,600 --> 00:41:03,560

    It's just that I've been working more now.

    624

    00:41:03,560 --> 00:41:09,320

    I've been had quite the same time to train, whereas like the pros, right?

    625

    00:41:09,320 --> 00:41:14,680

    They're amping up their training because of Olympics and all the rounds of

    626

    00:41:14,680 --> 00:41:22,200

    punks and especially if the team trials in two years, I just don't know if it's

    627

    00:41:22,200 --> 00:41:24,120

    realistic to go for it again.

    628

    00:41:25,080 --> 00:41:30,040

    In my head, I definitely want to, but I don't know, I've been struggling a bit

    629

    00:41:30,040 --> 00:41:33,320

    in the head to think that I could reach it.

    630

    00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:35,240

    Yeah.

    631

    00:41:35,640 --> 00:41:36,040

    Yeah.

    632

    00:41:36,040 --> 00:41:41,160

    By work, do you just mean the coaching stuff or do you also have like a different-

    633

    00:41:41,160 --> 00:41:45,240

    So I do coaching at the moment, that's like my main income.

    634

    00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:47,880

    That's doing okay at the moment.

    635

    00:41:47,880 --> 00:41:54,440

    I'm not sure if it's going to be quite enough for the kind of income I want to

    636

    00:41:54,440 --> 00:41:57,240

    have, but for now it's okay.

    637

    00:41:57,240 --> 00:42:02,920

    So I can still continue training if I choose to, but I haven't been training

    638

    00:42:02,920 --> 00:42:06,040

    much since the team selections.

    639

    00:42:06,040 --> 00:42:11,720

    I've been climbing a lot still, but definitely nice focus and intentional

    640

    00:42:11,720 --> 00:42:12,520

    with my climbing.

    641

    00:42:12,520 --> 00:42:14,280

    Well, that's a bit of a shame to hear.

    642

    00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:14,920

    We'll see.

    643

    00:42:14,920 --> 00:42:22,760

    I think whatever nationals coming up in September, it'll be the first, like,

    644

    00:42:23,400 --> 00:42:26,200

    it'll be like one of the big comps we have of the season.

    645

    00:42:26,680 --> 00:42:27,640

    I'll see how I do that.

    646

    00:42:28,600 --> 00:42:31,800

    I've been having like different first two climbing than what I had before.

    647

    00:42:33,240 --> 00:42:33,960

    So we'll see.

    648

    00:42:35,480 --> 00:42:38,120

    I think it would determine how much I enjoy the comp really.

    649

    00:42:38,440 --> 00:42:40,440

    If I can really enjoy or have fun.

    650

    00:42:40,440 --> 00:42:43,960

    I think why not go for it again closer than ever.

    651

    00:42:44,760 --> 00:42:49,720

    But I think after all that, like a small break was necessary for me.

    652

    00:42:50,680 --> 00:42:56,680

    I feel like this might not be the same for everyone because to be honest, like

    653

    00:42:56,680 --> 00:42:58,920

    training for 6 months isn't that much, right?

    654

    00:42:58,920 --> 00:43:01,080

    People have been dedicated their lives to it.

    655

    00:43:01,560 --> 00:43:05,720

    Like it's not easy to think that just from six months of training, I can

    656

    00:43:05,720 --> 00:43:10,120

    catch up really, but I just, to me, I just want to see how close I can get.

    657

    00:43:11,560 --> 00:43:17,000

    And I really enjoyed pursuing it and everything about it was really enjoyable.

    658

    00:43:18,040 --> 00:43:24,600

    Of course, the result sucked at the end, but, um, I think I proved to myself that

    659

    00:43:25,080 --> 00:43:27,480

    I have a fighting chance if I have the time.

    660

    00:43:28,040 --> 00:43:31,160

    So it depends in the season.

    661

    00:43:31,160 --> 00:43:37,160

    If I have the time, so it depends in the next few months, where I can figure out

    662

    00:43:37,160 --> 00:43:40,200

    a schedule that works for all the training to fit in.

    663

    00:43:40,680 --> 00:43:43,000

    Um, I'm going to try my best to find a coach as well.

    664

    00:43:43,880 --> 00:43:47,000

    Um, I like an afforded one with my own coaching.

    665

    00:43:47,000 --> 00:43:51,800

    So it's, it's a funny concept that I'm a coach, but then I'm looking for a coach as well.

    666

    00:43:51,800 --> 00:43:59,160

    But I think everyone needs one, just someone to be more objective and someone

    667

    00:43:59,160 --> 00:44:01,400

    who can judge your climbing from like a different point of view.

    668

    00:44:02,200 --> 00:44:07,880

    You're always a bit subjective of yourself and you're not seeing everything when you're

    669

    00:44:07,880 --> 00:44:09,640

    looking at your own training plans.

    670

    00:44:09,640 --> 00:44:15,640

    And to me, like for the next level of climbing, I really would like someone to help me out.

    671

    00:44:16,280 --> 00:44:16,920

    Yeah.

    672

    00:44:16,920 --> 00:44:17,800

    Yeah, definitely.

    673

    00:44:18,600 --> 00:44:22,040

    Um, but yeah, I mean, you still have time.

    674

    00:44:22,040 --> 00:44:23,560

    You're still pretty young.

    675

    00:44:23,560 --> 00:44:27,640

    Um, it's not like you're actively getting worse at climbing, so

    676

    00:44:27,640 --> 00:44:34,200

    still doing pretty well and you can maybe just take it a little bit slower and still

    677

    00:44:34,200 --> 00:44:35,800

    improve and get to that level.

    678

    00:44:37,160 --> 00:44:38,920

    I think I've been climbing really well recently.

    679

    00:44:38,920 --> 00:44:43,240

    It's quite nice, I guess, on a training game from those six months is still here.

    680

    00:44:43,240 --> 00:44:43,880

    Yeah, exactly.

    681

    00:44:43,880 --> 00:44:50,760

    So I've been doing less, but I'm climbing quite a bit harder than a few months ago, actually.

    682

    00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:53,720

    It's quite nice to, you know, feel stuff.

    683

    00:44:53,720 --> 00:45:01,240

    Um, I also went to Japan after the team selections and it was cool to see how a lot of like strong

    684

    00:45:01,240 --> 00:45:02,120

    level training there.

    685

    00:45:02,840 --> 00:45:08,920

    And I've been to UK where physical training is a massive part of the training.

    686

    00:45:09,880 --> 00:45:14,600

    You know, doing four or five days of conditional week is very common for most people.

    687

    00:45:14,600 --> 00:45:20,760

    Even at the non-pro level, you know, it's just a massive part of climbing there.

    688

    00:45:20,760 --> 00:45:23,160

    But in Japan, it's very different.

    689

    00:45:23,160 --> 00:45:25,240

    It's a completely different approach.

    690

    00:45:25,240 --> 00:45:31,240

    They have much more climbing sessions and fairly little physical training.

    691

    00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:37,960

    If they have any, it'll be like stuff with very light weights just to like keep the body healthy.

    692

    00:45:38,600 --> 00:45:43,000

    But it'll be very little training compared to anywhere else in the world.

    693

    00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:45,720

    So in my head, I'm doing enough.

    694

    00:45:46,280 --> 00:45:51,240

    I'm doing my climbing in the Japanese way of it, you know, just think about climbing,

    695

    00:45:51,240 --> 00:45:56,840

    just the climbing portion, a lot more work on your technique and your movements have

    696

    00:45:56,840 --> 00:45:58,040

    a lot more focus for that.

    697

    00:45:58,760 --> 00:46:03,080

    It's not like I did them before, but I think it's just allowing it more time,

    698

    00:46:03,640 --> 00:46:05,560

    giving it more space to develop.

    699

    00:46:06,120 --> 00:46:07,960

    That's what works for me at the moment.

    700

    00:46:10,600 --> 00:46:13,560

    I'm not sure if some people will call this lazy.

    701

    00:46:13,560 --> 00:46:18,200

    I'm still climbing like five days a week, I guess, but it's just different.

    702

    00:46:18,200 --> 00:46:20,440

    I think I'm going into it with different mindset.

    703

    00:46:20,440 --> 00:46:22,360

    Less pressure as well, enjoy the climbing more.

    704

    00:46:23,400 --> 00:46:27,400

    Yeah, that's what I've been doing for the past few months after the selections.

    705

    00:46:27,400 --> 00:46:28,840

    No, I mean, that totally makes sense.

    706

    00:46:28,840 --> 00:46:31,240

    I think that's what most people do.

    707

    00:46:33,240 --> 00:46:38,600

    But yeah, I mean, you said that you're feeling better and you're climbing now than even before.

    708

    00:46:38,600 --> 00:46:43,400

    And before you weren't that far off, only four places, four places.

    709

    00:46:43,400 --> 00:46:44,920

    Yeah, only four places off.

    710

    00:46:44,920 --> 00:46:47,960

    So you might still have a good shot.

    711

    00:46:47,960 --> 00:46:54,120

    You mentioned that there was still quite a difference between, I guess, like a normal

    712

    00:46:54,120 --> 00:46:57,640

    climber where you are now and like a pro climber.

    713

    00:46:58,680 --> 00:47:03,000

    What do you think that difference is and what more do you think you need to get there?

    714

    00:47:04,440 --> 00:47:09,560

    Well, in terms of level, where the pro are, are definitely a step up from where I am.

    715

    00:47:11,080 --> 00:47:16,280

    I think if you just look at like the level, if you go to a commercial gym,

    716

    00:47:16,280 --> 00:47:19,400

    the pro climbers will flash everything, basically.

    717

    00:47:19,400 --> 00:47:23,480

    Even on the hardest grade, it will take them a handful of temps and that's it.

    718

    00:47:24,040 --> 00:47:29,880

    For me, I still, it doesn't matter where I go, like especially Japan, I'll struggle a lot more there.

    719

    00:47:29,880 --> 00:47:30,380

    Sure.

    720

    00:47:31,400 --> 00:47:36,120

    But yeah, if you just look at that, I'm not at a level where I need to be yet.

    721

    00:47:36,120 --> 00:47:40,280

    And I'm making a lot of like amateur mistakes on the wall still.

    722

    00:47:40,280 --> 00:47:47,880

    Like, and these mistakes might not look apparent to a lot of people, but when I hesitate on the wall,

    723

    00:47:47,880 --> 00:47:52,280

    like even when I video myself, I, I, I, it doesn't show on the video.

    724

    00:47:52,280 --> 00:47:56,840

    But I know in my mind, I hesitated, I thought too much of that, maybe I'm not wasting energy.

    725

    00:47:56,840 --> 00:48:03,720

    Just like really small details is what's separating me from where I want to be, I think.

    726

    00:48:03,720 --> 00:48:09,800

    Also like mindset is the main thing, I reckon.

    727

    00:48:09,800 --> 00:48:16,680

    Just being able to like perform even when you're really scared on the pressure, you know,

    728

    00:48:16,680 --> 00:48:22,360

    still extracting a lot from your best climbing when you're not feeling your best.

    729

    00:48:23,240 --> 00:48:24,840

    That's what separates the best.

    730

    00:48:24,840 --> 00:48:29,080

    When I'm stressed and I'm stressed out in a climb, when I'm scared and calm,

    731

    00:48:29,080 --> 00:48:35,240

    I climb horrible, but let's say I would drop to like a 60% level,

    732

    00:48:35,240 --> 00:48:38,840

    whereas maybe for the pros, they would drop 5%, 10%.

    733

    00:48:39,560 --> 00:48:41,000

    It's still a really high level.

    734

    00:48:41,000 --> 00:48:46,200

    And I think that's the main difference being how much you can extract from your best climbing

    735

    00:48:46,920 --> 00:48:48,440

    when you have to perform.

    736

    00:48:49,240 --> 00:48:49,880

    It's the best.

    737

    00:48:49,880 --> 00:48:50,440

    Yeah.

    738

    00:48:50,440 --> 00:48:56,840

    I think if just talking career climbing level, I'm, I'm not saying that I'm not going to be

    739

    00:48:56,840 --> 00:49:01,480

    just talking career climbing level, I'm kind of close.

    740

    00:49:02,520 --> 00:49:06,360

    It's hard to tell because comp climbing, you don't have a grade to it.

    741

    00:49:06,360 --> 00:49:11,560

    And if you just look at numbers, V11s, nothing compared to what the pros are climbing.

    742

    00:49:11,560 --> 00:49:14,120

    But personally, I'm quite helpful, you know?

    743

    00:49:14,120 --> 00:49:19,000

    I've been trying to hide outdoors for like a few years now.

    744

    00:49:19,000 --> 00:49:23,560

    And just because there isn't anything that I hide in Hong Kong, it's hard to project.

    745

    00:49:23,560 --> 00:49:31,720

    So if you just look at numbers, it's hard to tell, but it's, I'm lucky that a lot of my friends who

    746

    00:49:31,720 --> 00:49:35,880

    compete in the World Cups from Hong Kong are right next to me all the time.

    747

    00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:42,360

    And just from climbing with them regularly, I can sort of gauge my level.

    748

    00:49:44,040 --> 00:49:44,600

    Yeah.

    749

    00:49:44,600 --> 00:49:49,720

    So I'm lucky in that sense, but no, I'm not where I want to be, but it might be possible.

    750

    00:49:49,720 --> 00:49:58,840

    Are you doing any sort of, I guess like mindset work to help deal with the stress in competition?

    751

    00:49:58,840 --> 00:50:03,640

    I haven't done any like specific drills or anything, but just giving it more thought

    752

    00:50:03,640 --> 00:50:07,720

    after comp was very important to me.

    753

    00:50:07,720 --> 00:50:16,920

    So even the process of making that video was, just to put it out there was a big thing for me.

    754

    00:50:16,920 --> 00:50:23,160

    Because you don't see a lot of videos where, you know, people fail at the end.

    755

    00:50:23,720 --> 00:50:29,800

    The perfect story would be, I messed up, I tried hard, and then two years later, you know,

    756

    00:50:29,800 --> 00:50:33,880

    I went, that would be the perfect story, right?

    757

    00:50:33,880 --> 00:50:41,880

    But I think I decided to put that video out there just because I don't think that was the end of story.

    758

    00:50:41,880 --> 00:50:44,120

    Like, of course it would take me some time to figure out.

    759

    00:50:44,120 --> 00:50:49,720

    As I've said, I have some doubts about where I'm going, how I'm going to go about my dream.

    760

    00:50:50,920 --> 00:50:56,040

    But I think it's part of the process and everything I did.

    761

    00:50:56,920 --> 00:50:59,160

    Like, I just want to put it out there to see.

    762

    00:51:00,200 --> 00:51:05,560

    Um, I would like it to be the perfect story, but it was part of the process.

    763

    00:51:06,360 --> 00:51:07,320

    It was what I went through.

    764

    00:51:07,320 --> 00:51:10,520

    It was like an experience I had, which I really enjoy.

    765

    00:51:10,520 --> 00:51:17,960

    Like, if you look at the whole experience, I really enjoy putting my heart into climbing, like 100%.

    766

    00:51:19,400 --> 00:51:21,480

    I had very little distractions.

    767

    00:51:21,480 --> 00:51:27,240

    I did have work, but it was like really lower my working hours, just so I'm focused on comp.

    768

    00:51:27,240 --> 00:51:29,240

    Made my parents a bit stressed, but um.

    769

    00:51:31,320 --> 00:51:34,760

    But yeah, my parents were kind enough for me to, you know, I told them,

    770

    00:51:36,040 --> 00:51:37,640

    just give me a few months.

    771

    00:51:37,640 --> 00:51:41,000

    Just really want to go for this, see what I can get.

    772

    00:51:41,000 --> 00:51:43,880

    Um, they're nice enough to let me do that.

    773

    00:51:45,000 --> 00:51:47,320

    As long as I can support myself to do fine with it.

    774

    00:51:48,280 --> 00:51:52,280

    So yeah, just enjoy my own climbing for now.

    775

    00:51:52,840 --> 00:51:53,340

    We'll see.

    776

    00:51:53,960 --> 00:51:58,840

    Yeah, you definitely seem to do a lot of reflection after the fact.

    777

    00:51:58,840 --> 00:52:06,760

    Um, I think one question that you had asked was why do you climb?

    778

    00:52:07,640 --> 00:52:09,240

    Um, do you have an answer for that?

    779

    00:52:11,800 --> 00:52:17,160

    I think when I set up my goal of getting the team, I did think about that.

    780

    00:52:17,640 --> 00:52:19,800

    I think I had a specific goal, right?

    781

    00:52:19,800 --> 00:52:22,280

    Just like get on the team, go to the World Cup, dominate.

    782

    00:52:22,280 --> 00:52:22,780

    Wow.

    783

    00:52:23,560 --> 00:52:27,160

    But I didn't fully understand why.

    784

    00:52:27,160 --> 00:52:28,920

    I don't think I even thought about it.

    785

    00:52:28,920 --> 00:52:34,680

    And what you're looking at, let's say right up, we're recording this right

    786

    00:52:34,680 --> 00:52:35,720

    after World Championships, right?

    787

    00:52:36,760 --> 00:52:39,080

    After the first round of Olympic qualifiers.

    788

    00:52:40,280 --> 00:52:47,000

    And most things you read on the athletes Instagram post for everyone who has failed

    789

    00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:48,680

    or even people who have succeeded.

    790

    00:52:49,000 --> 00:52:51,320

    It's not about how strong they think they are.

    791

    00:52:51,320 --> 00:52:55,640

    It's not about how much I'm pulling on my void or plums.

    792

    00:52:55,640 --> 00:53:00,920

    It's all about the mindset and how they're dealing with the pressure.

    793

    00:53:02,040 --> 00:53:07,880

    And I think knowing why you climb is a very important thing.

    794

    00:53:07,880 --> 00:53:09,240

    And why compete, right?

    795

    00:53:09,240 --> 00:53:12,440

    Like I can, a lot of people just enjoy climbing, right?

    796

    00:53:12,440 --> 00:53:16,520

    Just if you go outdoors, you can still have fun with friends.

    797

    00:53:16,520 --> 00:53:17,080

    You can still try hard.

    798

    00:53:17,080 --> 00:53:20,280

    You can still put a hundred percent to your climbing with no time pressure.

    799

    00:53:20,280 --> 00:53:30,120

    To me, why I climb was because climbing so diverse and you need to be so

    800

    00:53:30,120 --> 00:53:31,720

    skillful in so many things.

    801

    00:53:31,720 --> 00:53:36,680

    And I find that to be fascinating to be a messed up every style.

    802

    00:53:37,720 --> 00:53:41,240

    I find that to be like so insanely fine.

    803

    00:53:41,880 --> 00:53:43,240

    You got to be so adaptable.

    804

    00:53:43,240 --> 00:53:44,440

    You got to think so fast.

    805

    00:53:44,440 --> 00:53:51,000

    And to me, the one I wanted after reflection was hanging with other

    806

    00:53:51,000 --> 00:53:52,280

    people who are just as crazy.

    807

    00:53:53,560 --> 00:53:59,400

    And to me, the best way off that was going to a comp as a comp climber.

    808

    00:53:59,400 --> 00:54:01,160

    They had me all my idols.

    809

    00:54:01,160 --> 00:54:06,040

    I can meet all these other crazy people who are absolutely nuts about climbing.

    810

    00:54:08,040 --> 00:54:13,080

    To me, comp climbing, it's, it's like, it's like, it's like,

    811

    00:54:13,080 --> 00:54:17,160

    it's like climbing, it's, you got to be the most well-rounded climber.

    812

    00:54:18,120 --> 00:54:20,760

    And to do that, you got to do a lot of thinking as well.

    813

    00:54:22,200 --> 00:54:27,480

    And to talk to other people who have given, I'm not sure about this, but I'm

    814

    00:54:27,480 --> 00:54:31,640

    pretty sure most people at the top think about their own climbing a lot.

    815

    00:54:32,280 --> 00:54:32,760

    Right?

    816

    00:54:33,080 --> 00:54:36,520

    After the training, they're not just, you know, forgetting about everything

    817

    00:54:36,520 --> 00:54:37,960

    and do other stuff.

    818

    00:54:38,280 --> 00:54:39,400

    They're still thinking about climbing.

    819

    00:54:39,400 --> 00:54:41,880

    Even when they sleep, they're dreaming about climbing.

    820

    00:54:41,880 --> 00:54:45,240

    And to me, I want to hang with people like that.

    821

    00:54:45,240 --> 00:54:54,600

    I want to experience climbing alongside them, with them, or just experience

    822

    00:54:54,600 --> 00:54:55,800

    different aspects of climbing.

    823

    00:54:56,360 --> 00:55:00,520

    And I think being a pro climber allows you to try a lot of new stuff within

    824

    00:55:00,520 --> 00:55:01,320

    climbing.

    825

    00:55:01,320 --> 00:55:03,560

    There are a lot of opportunities you can have.

    826

    00:55:03,560 --> 00:55:05,320

    That's why I wanted to be one.

    827

    00:55:07,000 --> 00:55:11,320

    So yeah, I think understanding why you climb is extremely important.

    828

    00:55:11,320 --> 00:55:17,160

    Because knowing what you want makes it a lot easier to approach your goal.

    829

    00:55:18,760 --> 00:55:24,920

    And when the end goal for me was to have fun, enjoy it, it changes the

    830

    00:55:24,920 --> 00:55:27,400

    dynamic of my sessions or the mindset.

    831

    00:55:28,120 --> 00:55:33,080

    When the mindset is like, have fun at the end, like I'm in this so I can have

    832

    00:55:33,080 --> 00:55:35,880

    fun and, you know, talk to people I love.

    833

    00:55:35,880 --> 00:55:40,040

    Talk to people who are just as crazy with me, just as crazy about climbing,

    834

    00:55:40,040 --> 00:55:42,680

    ask me.

    835

    00:55:42,680 --> 00:55:46,040

    Then I shouldn't be stressing all the time when I don't climb well.

    836

    00:55:46,040 --> 00:55:46,360

    Right?

    837

    00:55:46,360 --> 00:55:49,880

    Even when I'm not climbing well, I was still doing what I love.

    838

    00:55:50,520 --> 00:55:51,560

    I'm still climbing.

    839

    00:55:51,560 --> 00:55:52,600

    I'm still having fun.

    840

    00:55:53,560 --> 00:55:55,480

    To me, that's the most important part.

    841

    00:55:56,120 --> 00:56:01,240

    If you're not enjoying it anymore, I don't really see the point.

    842

    00:56:01,240 --> 00:56:04,840

    Of course, you can't be all happy every single day when you go into climbing,

    843

    00:56:04,840 --> 00:56:09,160

    but at least trying to be is quite important to me.

    844

    00:56:09,160 --> 00:56:12,600

    Or at least there's something I should strive for.

    845

    00:56:13,800 --> 00:56:16,760

    Just enjoying climbing and enjoy the company.

    846

    00:56:17,720 --> 00:56:19,080

    That was a really good way of putting it.

    847

    00:56:20,760 --> 00:56:24,680

    I wish we could end on that note, but I have a couple of discord questions.

    848

    00:56:25,640 --> 00:56:26,920

    Sure, let's go for it.

    849

    00:56:26,920 --> 00:56:27,420

    Yeah.

    850

    00:56:27,960 --> 00:56:34,120

    The first one, are there areas where you feel like your lack of experience

    851

    00:56:34,120 --> 00:56:40,840

    climbing in terms of just number of years, is I guess your lack of experience

    852

    00:56:40,840 --> 00:56:45,560

    shows up more compared to climbers who have been climbing since they were kids.

    853

    00:56:45,560 --> 00:56:46,840

    Do you notice a difference there?

    854

    00:56:48,040 --> 00:56:49,160

    Yeah, definitely.

    855

    00:56:49,160 --> 00:56:54,360

    In terms of thinking about beta, if you're talking specifics, it's the biggest thing.

    856

    00:56:55,160 --> 00:56:59,080

    When I'm in a comp or just a normal climbing setting in the gym,

    857

    00:56:59,080 --> 00:57:01,560

    let's say we have a hard problem with our projecting,

    858

    00:57:01,560 --> 00:57:03,960

    I might think of one or two ways to do it.

    859

    00:57:04,680 --> 00:57:09,960

    If you give me time, I think of three, but those ideas and betas and ways

    860

    00:57:09,960 --> 00:57:12,440

    of doing climb come instantly to my friends.

    861

    00:57:13,320 --> 00:57:18,040

    Of course, they've been climbing for ages, but that's the most noticeable difference

    862

    00:57:18,840 --> 00:57:24,600

    to me that they can figure out climbs really quickly and that relates to

    863

    00:57:25,000 --> 00:57:26,920

    repeat hard moves once they have done them.

    864

    00:57:27,720 --> 00:57:28,680

    It's crazy.

    865

    00:57:28,680 --> 00:57:32,600

    Once they figure out their body positions, they know exactly what their body's doing.

    866

    00:57:33,720 --> 00:57:37,320

    If I do a move first try, I think sometimes it's a lot.

    867

    00:57:37,320 --> 00:57:43,720

    Like maybe I study a lot about climbing and like really analyze my own movements,

    868

    00:57:43,720 --> 00:57:48,520

    but I still struggle with knowing exactly what my body's doing,

    869

    00:57:50,040 --> 00:57:53,880

    being very intentional with where I'm placing my hips, my foot,

    870

    00:57:54,760 --> 00:57:57,800

    how much momentum I'm going, all the small details.

    871

    00:57:57,800 --> 00:58:06,440

    It's what separates me from the top or separates normal climbers from the top.

    872

    00:58:07,960 --> 00:58:09,320

    You don't notice these things.

    873

    00:58:09,320 --> 00:58:14,840

    I think if you just look at videos, I pose and a lot of videos, I'll have a few pose.

    874

    00:58:14,840 --> 00:58:17,480

    It's hard to tell the difference I even find.

    875

    00:58:17,960 --> 00:58:22,440

    Like you're just jumping around the same climb, so what is the difference?

    876

    00:58:22,440 --> 00:58:29,320

    But it's what's going on in the mind that is the biggest separation to me.

    877

    00:58:29,320 --> 00:58:35,560

    Do you think that in 10 years you'll have that kind of experience

    878

    00:58:35,560 --> 00:58:37,560

    and that won't be an issue for you anymore?

    879

    00:58:39,000 --> 00:58:39,480

    Hopefully.

    880

    00:58:40,520 --> 00:58:43,880

    Hopefully I'll be, if I'm intentional with my climbing,

    881

    00:58:43,880 --> 00:58:48,360

    you know, for the next 10 years, I hope I'll be at a really good level that I'm happy with.

    882

    00:58:49,080 --> 00:58:49,480

    Don't know.

    883

    00:58:50,120 --> 00:58:50,620

    Okay.

    884

    00:58:50,620 --> 00:58:52,620

    Other question.

    885

    00:58:53,740 --> 00:58:55,740

    You might've answered this a little bit.

    886

    00:58:56,780 --> 00:59:01,580

    How did you have the time and money to make your training happen?

    887

    00:59:02,940 --> 00:59:06,780

    Was that just because you were like done with school

    888

    00:59:06,780 --> 00:59:09,900

    and you had like some money from coaching?

    889

    00:59:10,940 --> 00:59:16,460

    So I've been saving up like all the time, I guess, when I had a save up.

    890

    00:59:16,460 --> 00:59:23,580

    I wasn't spending too much really, and I'm still staying with my parents.

    891

    00:59:24,140 --> 00:59:27,580

    So all the spending I had was for gyms, equipment and stuff.

    892

    00:59:27,580 --> 00:59:33,900

    And that's my own coaching as a part-time job, like covers most of that.

    893

    00:59:34,460 --> 00:59:37,900

    And yeah, so that wasn't really a problem.

    894

    00:59:39,020 --> 00:59:41,260

    So nowadays, what's your plan?

    895

    00:59:43,340 --> 00:59:45,900

    At the moment, I'm doing more coaching.

    896

    00:59:45,900 --> 00:59:50,700

    It's like I'm taking it more, I just like full-time doing online consultations as well.

    897

    00:59:50,700 --> 00:59:55,580

    I'm starting to do some, a lot more face-to-face one-on-one coaching stuff.

    898

    00:59:55,580 --> 00:59:59,900

    Because that's why I enjoy the most, like really helping someone to like

    899

    00:59:59,900 --> 01:00:03,260

    get better at climbing or whatever their goal is, right?

    900

    01:00:03,260 --> 01:00:06,620

    Some people that have very specific goal of some clients who are like

    901

    01:00:06,620 --> 01:00:07,980

    trying to get on the team as well.

    902

    01:00:07,980 --> 01:00:13,100

    They want to compete at a high level and I try my best to, you know,

    903

    01:00:13,100 --> 01:00:20,540

    help them learn from my mistakes and tell them things that I think works

    904

    01:00:20,540 --> 01:00:22,460

    or will be most beneficial.

    905

    01:00:22,460 --> 01:00:24,700

    Of course, it requires them to think for themselves as well.

    906

    01:00:26,620 --> 01:00:32,540

    Or there are a lot of clients who just want to enjoy climbing at a high level.

    907

    01:00:32,540 --> 01:00:37,660

    But like to me, it's important to ask them why as well.

    908

    01:00:37,660 --> 01:00:41,580

    Like I don't want to just climb with someone who doesn't really care and, you know,

    909

    01:00:41,580 --> 01:00:44,300

    just want to get better as you climb higher grade.

    910

    01:00:45,340 --> 01:00:49,500

    The point of getting better to me, if you don't have a specific goal

    911

    01:00:49,500 --> 01:00:52,780

    and you still want to get better, you got to understand why.

    912

    01:00:52,780 --> 01:00:56,380

    And to me, to get better means you can explore more.

    913

    01:00:57,340 --> 01:01:01,580

    When we think of higher grades, it's not just because you can take up a high number on Instagram.

    914

    01:01:01,580 --> 01:01:06,300

    It's because the moves are, they get way cooler, right?

    915

    01:01:07,020 --> 01:01:09,820

    By being stronger, you can experience more stuff

    916

    01:01:09,820 --> 01:01:12,540

    and doing more fancy moves, be more creative.

    917

    01:01:12,540 --> 01:01:16,860

    And the crazy things on your mind that you think you could do,

    918

    01:01:16,860 --> 01:01:19,580

    your body will be able to handle them.

    919

    01:01:19,580 --> 01:01:21,420

    And that's a great feeling, I think.

    920

    01:01:22,700 --> 01:01:27,340

    And like making my clients realize that it's like quite important to me.

    921

    01:01:27,900 --> 01:01:30,220

    So yeah, I do a lot of coaching.

    922

    01:01:30,220 --> 01:01:31,100

    I really enjoy it.

    923

    01:01:31,100 --> 01:01:33,420

    Teaching kids is super fun.

    924

    01:01:33,420 --> 01:01:34,460

    They progress so fast.

    925

    01:01:34,460 --> 01:01:35,660

    They learn so quick.

    926

    01:01:35,660 --> 01:01:38,940

    And like kids are like so simple minded.

    927

    01:01:38,940 --> 01:01:40,300

    They just want to get better.

    928

    01:01:40,300 --> 01:01:42,060

    So they don't rest.

    929

    01:01:42,060 --> 01:01:45,980

    They just got to yank them off the wall to tell them to stop.

    930

    01:01:45,980 --> 01:01:47,900

    They just want to keep going, keep going, keep trying.

    931

    01:01:47,900 --> 01:01:51,580

    And I find it so fun and helping them get better

    932

    01:01:51,580 --> 01:01:56,940

    and like seeing the size of the face when they really feel their own progression is amazing.

    933

    01:01:57,500 --> 01:02:00,540

    Especially since they start like really at nothing level.

    934

    01:02:00,540 --> 01:02:04,380

    Although I love kids, kids I coach are they start from nothing.

    935

    01:02:04,380 --> 01:02:05,980

    They don't have any sports background.

    936

    01:02:05,980 --> 01:02:07,180

    Also, they're really young.

    937

    01:02:07,180 --> 01:02:17,260

    But making my goal is just have my kids to be scaring all the other climbers at the gym.

    938

    01:02:17,260 --> 01:02:19,020

    Like, oh, what are they doing?

    939

    01:02:19,020 --> 01:02:20,780

    How are they climbing on projects?

    940

    01:02:20,780 --> 01:02:21,420

    That's my dream.

    941

    01:02:21,420 --> 01:02:22,300

    I love kids.

    942

    01:02:22,300 --> 01:02:25,100

    That I think is really fun with it and setting.

    943

    01:02:25,100 --> 01:02:27,580

    But yeah, I love my coaching stuff.

    944

    01:02:27,580 --> 01:02:28,860

    And it's really enjoyable.

    945

    01:02:28,860 --> 01:02:30,780

    So at the moment, I keep coaching.

    946

    01:02:31,340 --> 01:02:33,260

    I'm really enjoying the YouTube as well.

    947

    01:02:33,260 --> 01:02:35,660

    But that's just so fun at the moment.

    948

    01:02:35,660 --> 01:02:40,780

    Do you want to keep doing something in the climbing space for the rest of your life?

    949

    01:02:40,780 --> 01:02:42,860

    You think that's your calling?

    950

    01:02:42,860 --> 01:02:43,660

    I think so.

    951

    01:02:43,660 --> 01:02:46,220

    I think I've had passion in the past.

    952

    01:02:46,220 --> 01:02:51,100

    I've surfed, I've skated, but I've never been quite as crazy.

    953

    01:02:51,100 --> 01:02:55,420

    And I don't think I've, I was passionate about that sport for so long.

    954

    01:02:55,980 --> 01:02:57,980

    It's been four years since I started climbing.

    955

    01:02:58,860 --> 01:03:02,460

    I think I'm just as crazy, if not more about climbing than ever.

    956

    01:03:02,460 --> 01:03:05,500

    So I don't see this passion going away anytime soon.

    957

    01:03:05,900 --> 01:03:11,260

    And if it does, there's so much more like about climbing that I haven't tried yet.

    958

    01:03:11,260 --> 01:03:14,220

    Like one day I'll really like to try big wall climbing.

    959

    01:03:14,220 --> 01:03:19,740

    I haven't really put my time into the climbing, just like two massive aspect of climbing.

    960

    01:03:19,740 --> 01:03:21,100

    I haven't even explored yet.

    961

    01:03:21,980 --> 01:03:26,780

    Like going, doing more outdoor trips, going to expeditions one day.

    962

    01:03:27,420 --> 01:03:31,980

    I don't know, but even just within this more bordering, calm,

    963

    01:03:31,980 --> 01:03:34,620

    climbing space I'm in, I'm having so much fun.

    964

    01:03:35,820 --> 01:03:41,340

    I don't see this passion going away anytime soon, especially with so many more aspects

    965

    01:03:41,340 --> 01:03:46,060

    of climbing that have been left unexplored.

    966

    01:03:49,180 --> 01:03:49,660

    Yeah.

    967

    01:03:49,660 --> 01:03:50,460

    Awesome.

    968

    01:03:50,460 --> 01:03:53,420

    Well, I think that is everything I wanted to cover.

    969

    01:03:53,420 --> 01:03:55,500

    Thanks for joining me today.

    970

    01:03:55,500 --> 01:03:59,180

    Would you like to let everyone know where they can find you?

    971

    01:03:59,180 --> 01:04:02,380

    If they want to follow the rest of your journey and support you?

    972

    01:04:03,820 --> 01:04:09,020

    If you just look up Jonathan Sen on Instagram, you'll probably find me,

    973

    01:04:09,020 --> 01:04:10,780

    the kid with the white hair icon.

    974

    01:04:11,500 --> 01:04:12,780

    It's quite easy to tell, I think.

    975

    01:04:12,780 --> 01:04:19,020

    I'm also on YouTube where I document my process and the amazing people I meet.

    976

    01:04:19,020 --> 01:04:24,060

    And I have a trip about Japan that I documented.

    977

    01:04:24,060 --> 01:04:25,580

    I had a lot of cool experiences there.

    978

    01:04:25,580 --> 01:04:28,140

    I'm doing a series on all things Japanese climbing.

    979

    01:04:28,140 --> 01:04:29,420

    It'd be cool to check that out.

    980

    01:04:29,420 --> 01:04:34,540

    I think that's something that's not really common in the climbing space,

    981

    01:04:34,540 --> 01:04:39,580

    just understanding Japanese climbing and why they're so good, the culture behind it.

    982

    01:04:39,580 --> 01:04:46,060

    It's just a bit of space that's unexplored and I want to fill that gap and tell some cool stories.

    983

    01:04:46,700 --> 01:04:49,100

    So yeah, I'm on YouTube, I'm on Instagram.

    984

    01:04:49,100 --> 01:04:50,860

    Let me know what you think.

    985

    01:04:51,980 --> 01:04:53,020

    Okay, awesome.

    986

    01:04:53,020 --> 01:04:54,220

    Well, thank you again.

    987

    01:04:54,220 --> 01:04:56,860

    It was amazing to talk to you and good luck.

    988

    01:04:56,860 --> 01:05:00,540

    And your competition endeavors were rooting for you.

    989

    01:05:00,540 --> 01:05:01,180

    Thank you for your time.

    990

    01:05:01,180 --> 01:05:04,460

    Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast.

    991

    01:05:04,460 --> 01:05:10,460

    If you're watching on YouTube, I would love to hear your discussion and thoughts in the comments below.

    992

    01:05:10,460 --> 01:05:13,820

    And don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

    993

    01:05:13,820 --> 01:05:19,660

    If you're listening through a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you rated it five stars

    994

    01:05:19,660 --> 01:05:25,900

    and you can continue the discussion through my competition climbing Discord server linked in the description.

    995

    01:05:25,900 --> 01:05:33,500

    Thanks again for listening.

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4: Grace Crowley, Speed Climber

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2: Maya Witters, World Cup Judge