24: Madison Richardon, Canadian Boulderer
Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers.
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season
6:11 - Climbing + competing start
7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing
16:37 - Current training program
19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada
26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching
33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties
37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring?
39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse
44:00 - Deleting all social media
49:31 - Social media and sponsorships
55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube
1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber
1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?!
1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers
1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship
1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah Yip
1:24:36 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the current field of comp climbing women compared to other nations?
1:27:28 - Discord Q: Would there be a benefit to a more dedicated training center in Canada?
1:30:09 - Final thoughts + where to find Madison
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The word back at home was like, oh my gosh, she's going to make finals.
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And I was like, well, that was probably as best as I can do this season.
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Like my husband and I were training lead in Czech Republic, and he actually decked me.
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So I fell to the ground.
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This past year, we weren't able to send a coach out to the IFSC
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events with our athletes due to lack of funding.
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I'm one of the more competitive competitors out there.
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We were engaged quote unquote for two weeks and then we got married
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and then we've been married ever since.
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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.
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I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest, Madison Richardson.
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Madison is a boulder for Team Canada and you may have seen her YouTube videos
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with her husband, Zach, on their channel, Richardson's Climbing.
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In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team
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faces, such as not having a head coach, her loose streak when it comes to
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Canadian nationals, YouTube and deleting social media, and we'll get her take on
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getting married young and relationships among climbers.
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I really appreciated her honesty when it comes to having such a
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unique competitive mindset.
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So I really hope you enjoy this episode with Madison.
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Are you like training for any competitions coming up or do you have
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any plans for the upcoming few weeks or months?
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Yeah.
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Well, because of the Olympics, there's a bit of a gap.
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I'm only doing the world cup, like the bouldering season this year.
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I'm a boulder specialist.
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So I didn't go for the Olympics this past cycle.
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So I have like a really spaced out season this year.
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So yeah, all of August is completely free.
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And then we're training for the like Prague and Seoul World
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Cups at the end of the year.
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Oh, is Prague also bouldering?
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Prague and Seoul.
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I think one of them is like speed as well.
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I think it's Seoul has speed.
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I guess it kind of threw me off that they were even having bouldering
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at the end of the season this year.
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So no, yeah, I'm super thrown off too.
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Yeah.
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It'll be exciting to watch.
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Is it like different for you?
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Like having to train for I guess the first few World Cups and then
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you have a long break and then doing it again.
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Yeah, it's honestly, it's a little bit difficult like mentally
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just to be just on all season.
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Usually the season is like April to June and it's a really short,
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really quick, like super travel intensive couple of weeks.
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Super travel intensive couple months, but this year it's like you
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go to World Cup and you come home for a month.
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You go to another World Cup and so having to like think about
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performance all year basically from April to October is pretty
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crazy and I'm definitely ready for it to be done.
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I would have liked to be done like two months ago.
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It's honestly really hard to maintain like you're thinking about
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not getting injured and like I'm not getting better at climbing.
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I'm just kind of staying level.
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It's kind of just mentally.
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I'm like ready to start like improving for next season, but I have
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to finish this season.
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So it's difficult.
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So did this like August time well and also like most of July too.
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Did that not really feel like a break or like a training season?
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Yeah, it's I mean I had a bit of a heavier workload on in July just
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because we had two months to prepare for or two and a half almost
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three months to prepare between Innsbruck and Prague.
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Innsbruck was like end of June and Prague is like end of September.
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So there was a good couple months there to get some actual training
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in opposed to just kind of really low volume stuff that I usually
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do. So yeah, July was pretty intense on like working out, but it's
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still nowhere near the intensity.
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I have like coming right into like an off season.
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So it's it definitely doesn't feel the same.
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Yeah, I find it really interesting as like a non-athlete basically
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that the competition season, I guess I've heard it's kind of like
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you're just getting worse at climbing as the competition season
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goes on.
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Yeah, what's that like because I think a lot of people just like
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don't realize that's that's what happens.
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No, yeah, absolutely.
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It was actually interesting.
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The first World Cup of the season was like my like career best
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result. It was like seventh place and I was like really psyched
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but like seventh is like kind of close to finals.
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So like the word back at home was like, oh my gosh, she's going
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to make finals and I was like, well that was probably as best
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as I can do this season.
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Like the first one is like you're ready.
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You're trained up.
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You're like your mind is fresh.
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You're like motivated you go and do it and then you know, you
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have a month off and then okay another one.
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Let's try again.
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Okay, another month and yeah, it does it does go down.
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So the expectation was really high like just in terms of my like
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community around me and myself I guess but it's definitely really
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hard to top the earlier season results.
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Interesting.
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I mean, I guess you would think that everyone else would also
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be dealing with that same issue.
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So in that way is it kind of just like who's better at maintaining
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this state of awfulness like as a whole?
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Sure.
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Yeah, I mean this season was a bit of like an outlier.
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I'm sure it'll be kind of like this going forward now that the
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Olympics is a thing but not everyone was training for the same
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thing all season.
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Like I was just going for the circuit.
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So every World Cup certain like World Cup was like my priority
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whereas other people were trying to like peek in, you know, the
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towards July and August for the Olympics and some people were
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skipping World Cups and like trying to peek all over the place
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and I was just trying to like peek and then stay there and I
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guess there are a couple people in my boat, but I feel like a
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lot of people were going for the OQS Olympic Series.
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So I was a little bit alone.
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There weren't many people doing exactly what I was doing, but
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I'm just so not into lead that I just couldn't bring myself to
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do it.
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Okay, gotcha.
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I actually had a question about lead.
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Well, I'll get into it after.
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So yeah, in general, how did you get into climbing and competing?
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Yeah, it's probably a similar story to most people.
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You know, you have a local climbing gym and then there's
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like a kids program you get into that for me.
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It was my my stepdad was the first person in the family to
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get into climbing and he dragged, you know, the the stepchildren
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out and the you know, the whole family he once he gets into
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something he just like really gets into it.
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So he brings everyone down with him trying to like get them
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into his hobbies.
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So it took me actually quite a few months to get to the gym.
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I was not interested in it at all.
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I mostly didn't like the idea of being like pretty bad at
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something compared to him.
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I was only 10 at the time, but I really liked being in my
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comfort zone and things like I'm used to.
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So he brought me out and I actually happened to be like
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fairly decent at it, you know off the bat, you know, I joined
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a local like climbing club.
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It wasn't that the youth team.
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It wasn't the comp team.
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It was like a step below that was like a feeder youth program
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that goes into the competition team, which I think is a
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perfect way to get someone into the comp scene because it is
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quite intimidating to go from like a hobby to now you're
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competing at this which I feel like oftentimes people are
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being pushed like kids are being pushed to kind of go compete
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which I would definitely push kids to compete but like
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definitely not right away.
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It's pretty intimidating.
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It can often like kind of do the opposite for your motivation
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and love for the sport.
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So it was a nice slow like transition into competitions.
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I think it took me like three or four years to start competing.
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Sounds good.
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And you mostly you only do boulder then.
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Yeah, I used to do lead a lot.
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I used to I can't believe like something when I think about
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my memories with lead.
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I can't like I know that I used to love it.
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I know it used to be like people would ask me like which
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discipline do you like more?
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I'm like, well, whatever season it is is the discipline.
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I like more like in Ontario.
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We do bouldering for like two months and then we do a lead
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season and then we have like, you know, a combined Cup or
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whatever whatever it was back then.
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So it would always be a very harsh transition between boulder
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and lead you do boulder for like two months and then completely
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stop bouldering and then just focus on lead and I was fairly
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decent at it.
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I did make the youth national team one year.
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I came in like third at Nationals and went to China.
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I think was my youth world there and a couple like just a
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couple years in I just started to lose my passion for a little
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bit.
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It was endurance.
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I've just never been an endurance kind of person.
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I don't go for runs.
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I don't when I was in gym class, you know, I wouldn't like I
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would always dread the the laps or whatever that kind of
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endurance focus thing was.
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I'm sure I'm sure many people can relate with that.
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But yeah, I was definitely drawn towards the really quick
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like powerful side of bouldering and I remember there was my
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last youth Nationals in lead.
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I remember I made finals like by the skin of my teeth and I
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looked up at the final boulder right before I was about to
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do it and the thought in my head was like, I don't want to
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do this.
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That looks really tiring.
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This does not look like a good time.
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I'm not excited to do this final and final week out.
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Yeah, like the final route in the competition.
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So yeah, that was like that was just like a very clear like
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that can't be my mindset if I'm trying to do like compete like
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I can't be dreading what I'm about to do.
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So that was like a clear sign.
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I need to probably stop doing lead and focus on what I am
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actually still enjoying which was bouldering.
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Yeah, so looking at the past competitions, you've been to
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on the IFSU page.
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I saw that was mostly boulder, but I think you actually did
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do one lead competition in the Senior Circuit of
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Yeah, what was the reason for that one?
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Well, yeah, it's well, so I did actually when the Olympics
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got announced for climbing I like for 2024 when it was lead
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and boulder combined.
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I did make the decision to start training for it and I hadn't
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done lead in probably three or four years.
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So I was definitely, you know doing a Hail Mary trying to
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push for it.
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See if my lead could even like stack up on the World Circuit
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at that time.
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My bouldering was pretty good.
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I had made finally a semi and bouldering at the World Cup.
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So I was like, okay, maybe I could do it.
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You know, it'd be really cool.
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If you know, if there's even a shot that I could make the
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Olympics, I might as well go for it.
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So I spent two years training for lead and of course, I had
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to come I had to qualify for lead World Cups with the
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national team in order to even like have a shot at doing lead
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in the OQS.
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So I made the lead team at the time.
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It was like a combined thing.
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So my boulder score actually happened to be good enough that
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even though I had not very good lead scores because it was
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a combined ranking.
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I was able to actually make the combined team.
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So I did qualify for some lead World Cups.
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I actually qualified for three lead World Cups, but a week
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before I think it was the Edinburgh lead World Cup my
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husband and I were training lead in Czech Republic and he
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actually decked me so I fell to the ground and so it was
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only from second clip.
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So it wasn't so bad, but it was one of those like cement.
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There was just complete cement floor with like a thin carpet
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and I basically essentially just jumped from the second clip
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down landed flat on my feet.
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I didn't roll my ankle or anything, but I fell so hard
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that it bruised my bone on my heel.
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So it was kind of stressful.
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I had to go to like a hospital in like the Czech Republic
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and then all this sort of stuff.
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But long story short, I couldn't compete in two lead
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World Cups because I had to completely not weight my heel
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and then the only lead World Cup.
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I was able to do was the last one of the season in Jakarta.
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So I had to go all the way to Indonesia in order to qualify
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for for future World Cups and it was my first lead World Cup.
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It was like not I was literally not planning on doing that
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one. I was going to just stick to the two European ones
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because I was injured.
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I had to do Jakarta and yeah, I clipped.
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I think I miss miss clipped one of them on the first route.
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Like I clipped the third clip before I clipped the second clip.
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So I got disqualified on that route and then the other route
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I just didn't do well enough at.
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So it was quite the disastrous lead season for me.
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And then I at that point I was like, okay, this is just not
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happening. My my performance wasn't there and then I didn't
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have enough, you know experience in World Cup.
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So that was my sole lead adventure, but I am glad actually
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I had the experience of doing a lead World Cup in the IFC
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because it is extremely terrifying.
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It's so like nerve-wracking.
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Like I did not enjoy the process.
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Like I thought I wouldn't like I thought maybe it would be
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okay, but no that lead World Cups in the IFC are just like
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the hardest thing you can do.
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So I definitely look up to them.
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Yeah terrifying because of the route or because of the crowd
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or well, it's just well with lead you get like one shot.
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So when you step up, you're like, okay, let's you know,
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climb as tense as possible and as statically as possible to
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not fall and it just makes for a very bad performance.
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I find I've always wondered about that because I feel like
283
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that's so much pressure to not be able to mess up at all.
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Oh, yes, like this is probably like 50% of the reason I don't
285
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do lead anymore.
286
00:13:48,100 --> 00:13:51,300
Like I just I like having the security knowing you can try
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00:13:51,300 --> 00:13:54,600
again and that almost lets me perform better in boulderings.
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I I'm more free to do the dynamic moves.
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Yeah, that makes sense.
290
00:13:59,200 --> 00:14:04,200
When you decked to do get injured like did you shatter your
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00:14:04,200 --> 00:14:08,500
heel or yeah, so from we had to get an like an x-ray to make
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00:14:08,500 --> 00:14:12,300
sure it wasn't a broken heel and I guess with a bone bruise
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00:14:12,300 --> 00:14:16,300
you technically are like breaking the bone but not enough.
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Like it's just like small.
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00:14:17,800 --> 00:14:20,300
It was almost like a it was like porous.
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Like if you look at the x-ray, it wasn't like all black or all
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00:14:24,100 --> 00:14:25,300
white whatever it's supposed to be.
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00:14:25,300 --> 00:14:28,800
It had like a little bit of like a different color at the bottom.
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So it's like it's like you're almost like you're about to
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break the bone.
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00:14:32,800 --> 00:14:34,900
Like if you're about if you landed like that again, it would
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00:14:34,900 --> 00:14:38,000
just be a complete shatter, you know, it's like this is like
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00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:41,100
the first the last and final warning if you're going to do
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anything on your heel.
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00:14:41,800 --> 00:14:45,700
So I couldn't I you can't take the risk of putting any weight
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on it after that interesting.
307
00:14:47,700 --> 00:14:48,100
Okay.
308
00:14:48,100 --> 00:14:52,700
So did that have any effect on your like mental side when it
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00:14:52,700 --> 00:14:53,400
came to lead?
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I've never like decked so I don't know what that would feel like.
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00:14:57,300 --> 00:15:01,300
Yeah, I mean there's feather decking which is when you like fall
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00:15:01,300 --> 00:15:04,000
and but you kind of just graze the floor which I have done
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00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:06,200
before in a gym setting with really thick mat.
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00:15:06,200 --> 00:15:11,600
So it's like that's not very scary but my husband actually
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00:15:11,600 --> 00:15:13,300
was bold is Boulder only as well.
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00:15:13,300 --> 00:15:16,600
So when I started training lead, he actually learned how to
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00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:17,200
lead belay.
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00:15:17,500 --> 00:15:19,800
He had been climbing for like 10 years, but he never learned
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00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:20,400
how to belay.
320
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Oh wow.
321
00:15:21,100 --> 00:15:25,500
So yeah, he was fairly inexperienced and he definitely
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00:15:25,500 --> 00:15:28,700
it was the classic like a lot of slack waiting for me to like
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clip.
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So you just put all out but I hadn't even motion to clip yet
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00:15:32,500 --> 00:15:35,400
and then I got into a position but then I slipped and then I
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00:15:35,400 --> 00:15:38,700
fell and all the slack was just there is no time to bring it
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in.
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00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:43,800
So his lack of experience I think was like the biggest issue
329
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but since then he's gotten a lot better.
330
00:15:47,500 --> 00:15:50,300
I trust him quite a bit more now and he learned a lot from
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that mistake.
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00:15:51,500 --> 00:15:55,200
Yeah, the moral of the story is trust your belay partner and
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00:15:55,200 --> 00:15:58,200
not just as a person but like trust the ability like I trusted
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00:15:58,200 --> 00:16:03,300
him but I did not maybe necessarily trust his experience
335
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level and belaying.
336
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:05,400
Yeah.
337
00:16:05,700 --> 00:16:06,200
Okay.
338
00:16:06,500 --> 00:16:09,400
So any interest in training lead climbing in the future or
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00:16:09,400 --> 00:16:11,100
you done forever?
340
00:16:11,800 --> 00:16:15,300
Honestly, I didn't mind the training like it's it's actually
341
00:16:15,300 --> 00:16:16,200
kind of interesting.
342
00:16:16,200 --> 00:16:19,100
It's a good change of pace and I do still train endurance as
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a boulder.
344
00:16:19,700 --> 00:16:21,000
You do need a little bit of it.
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00:16:21,400 --> 00:16:26,800
So if my coach happens to put in like lead training as
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00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:31,500
endurance, I am all for that actually but that said it's
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00:16:31,500 --> 00:16:35,200
been probably a year now since my husband has belayed so we
348
00:16:35,200 --> 00:16:37,200
probably have to do a quick refresher if we were to jump
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00:16:37,200 --> 00:16:37,900
back into it.
350
00:16:38,300 --> 00:16:39,400
Yeah, makes sense.
351
00:16:39,900 --> 00:16:40,200
Okay.
352
00:16:40,200 --> 00:16:42,700
So then what does your training look like nowadays?
353
00:16:43,100 --> 00:16:46,300
So I do have a coach his name is Libor Rosa.
354
00:16:47,200 --> 00:16:49,000
People probably don't remember who he is.
355
00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:52,000
He was a speed world champion back in the day.
356
00:16:53,500 --> 00:16:55,600
He's from the Czech team and he lives in Canada.
357
00:16:55,600 --> 00:16:55,700
Now.
358
00:16:55,700 --> 00:16:58,900
He's a Canadian citizen and he's been involved with the
359
00:16:58,900 --> 00:17:00,300
Canadian team for a while.
360
00:17:01,300 --> 00:17:02,900
I met him actually through the Canadian team.
361
00:17:02,900 --> 00:17:07,500
He was hired as our new like head coach and at the time he
362
00:17:07,500 --> 00:17:10,200
was overseeing all three disciplines today.
363
00:17:10,200 --> 00:17:11,300
He's just a speed coach.
364
00:17:11,300 --> 00:17:16,200
So he's not technically my national team coach, but he is
365
00:17:16,200 --> 00:17:17,300
just my personal coach now.
366
00:17:17,300 --> 00:17:20,100
So I kind of stole him and just took him for myself when he
367
00:17:20,100 --> 00:17:23,100
was hired and I just asked if he could do any because I was
368
00:17:23,100 --> 00:17:25,300
looking for a coach at the time and as he sees that here's
369
00:17:25,300 --> 00:17:28,200
a qualified coach and I said, can you do a little more for
370
00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:30,100
me because I'm looking for some actual coaching.
371
00:17:31,600 --> 00:17:33,800
So he does he does actually live across the country.
372
00:17:33,800 --> 00:17:37,700
He lives in BC, which is the West Coast and I'm in Montreal,
373
00:17:37,700 --> 00:17:39,100
which is like the Far East Coast.
374
00:17:39,100 --> 00:17:40,400
We couldn't be further away.
375
00:17:41,900 --> 00:17:43,400
So he does remote coaching for me.
376
00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:48,100
We've been doing it since 2021 and he's really great at
377
00:17:48,600 --> 00:17:52,200
programming. He's he just knows exactly what level to push
378
00:17:52,200 --> 00:17:56,100
me at like where the cap is for like what I'm able to do and
379
00:17:56,100 --> 00:17:58,600
he just like threads the line like so perfectly.
380
00:18:00,400 --> 00:18:02,300
It's a lot of endurance.
381
00:18:02,300 --> 00:18:06,200
I'd say like when it comes to the offseason like fitness is
382
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,300
like the the whole goal.
383
00:18:07,300 --> 00:18:11,700
You basically don't climb as much as you do off off the wall
384
00:18:11,700 --> 00:18:13,800
training and conditioning, which is great.
385
00:18:13,800 --> 00:18:15,300
That's totally my mindset.
386
00:18:15,300 --> 00:18:19,800
I think I've deprioritized climbing a lot in my training
387
00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:21,900
just over the years.
388
00:18:21,900 --> 00:18:25,200
I've kind of tried to build like a good base of strength
389
00:18:25,200 --> 00:18:28,200
and conditioning and then I kind of flip to the performance
390
00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:32,300
side during certain times of the year or kind of in certain
391
00:18:32,300 --> 00:18:34,800
years of my whole climbing career.
392
00:18:34,800 --> 00:18:37,600
It's kind of a long-term approach that I've had to it.
393
00:18:38,300 --> 00:18:40,800
Just since I was a kid at the first thing was like you got
394
00:18:40,800 --> 00:18:41,500
to get strong.
395
00:18:41,500 --> 00:18:45,200
So I in the at the expense of my like climbing and technique
396
00:18:45,700 --> 00:18:46,400
development.
397
00:18:46,400 --> 00:18:49,200
I just got really strong and then I was able to flip the
398
00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:52,200
switch and do more of the technique side with already a
399
00:18:52,500 --> 00:18:53,500
good base of strength.
400
00:18:53,800 --> 00:18:56,500
So my coach Lebor really has the same kind of philosophy.
401
00:18:57,600 --> 00:19:00,300
So yeah offseason is all about getting strong and then on
402
00:19:00,300 --> 00:19:02,500
season slash maybe like two three months out.
403
00:19:02,500 --> 00:19:04,100
It's all about like climbing.
404
00:19:04,400 --> 00:19:09,500
So we almost do like, you know 20 to 80 in the on season of
405
00:19:09,500 --> 00:19:12,400
of off-the-wall conditioning to climbing.
406
00:19:12,700 --> 00:19:15,600
I wonder if that's something I should try.
407
00:19:15,900 --> 00:19:19,100
I've never tried like just getting strong and like not
408
00:19:19,100 --> 00:19:20,100
climbing at all.
409
00:19:20,900 --> 00:19:22,300
But interesting.
410
00:19:22,700 --> 00:19:24,200
I think I would hate that though.
411
00:19:24,200 --> 00:19:25,900
I don't know if I could handle doing that.
412
00:19:26,200 --> 00:19:28,800
I was going to say this is kind of like the like pro athlete
413
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:29,300
side of it.
414
00:19:29,300 --> 00:19:34,600
It's like taking the bit of the fun out of it in in exchange
415
00:19:34,600 --> 00:19:36,700
for a little bit of performance enhancement.
416
00:19:36,700 --> 00:19:39,400
I mean if it would work I would consider it.
417
00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:41,800
Yeah, I mean I probably probably will.
418
00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:43,600
Yeah, interesting.
419
00:19:43,600 --> 00:19:44,100
Okay.
420
00:19:44,100 --> 00:19:49,700
And so you and your husband Zach have been moving around a
421
00:19:49,700 --> 00:19:50,200
little bit.
422
00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:52,900
You lived in Germany last year and now you're both back in
423
00:19:52,900 --> 00:19:54,600
Canada in Montreal.
424
00:19:54,600 --> 00:19:57,700
What was the purpose of both of these moves?
425
00:19:57,700 --> 00:20:01,100
Yeah, so we were from the Toronto area.
426
00:20:01,100 --> 00:20:02,400
He's from Burlington.
427
00:20:02,400 --> 00:20:04,200
I'm from my KW Kitchener.
428
00:20:04,200 --> 00:20:09,600
So they're fairly smaller areas and in Ontario the climbing
429
00:20:09,600 --> 00:20:13,200
scene is pretty I don't want to say bad.
430
00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:15,300
It's a little bit underdeveloped.
431
00:20:15,300 --> 00:20:18,800
Let's say that the gyms are pretty spaced out like few
432
00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:21,900
and far between if you want to kind of go to a couple different
433
00:20:21,900 --> 00:20:22,600
gyms in a day.
434
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:24,200
It's going to be quite the trek.
435
00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:29,300
You'll have to have a car probably in denser cities like
436
00:20:29,300 --> 00:20:29,800
Montreal.
437
00:20:29,800 --> 00:20:32,000
For example, it's like all the gyms are really close to each
438
00:20:32,000 --> 00:20:32,200
other.
439
00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:35,900
So it does get it's a lot easier to get the volume in the
440
00:20:35,900 --> 00:20:40,300
exposure to different kind of moves, which is pretty essential.
441
00:20:40,300 --> 00:20:44,200
So back in Ontario, we were really struggling to get the
442
00:20:44,200 --> 00:20:49,700
like get different moves in our diet and we were seeing just
443
00:20:49,700 --> 00:20:51,800
kind of the same boulders day to day.
444
00:20:51,800 --> 00:20:54,800
There's not a lot of emphasis on competition climbing in
445
00:20:54,800 --> 00:20:59,100
Ontario either and we find that this seems like when you're
446
00:20:59,100 --> 00:21:01,700
just looking at the you know on social media or you're looking
447
00:21:01,700 --> 00:21:05,300
wherever you're looking it seems like other areas just have
448
00:21:05,300 --> 00:21:09,500
it more together seems like they they know what they're doing.
449
00:21:09,500 --> 00:21:12,800
You know, they have a nice community of competition climbing
450
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:14,500
and we just never had that growing up.
451
00:21:14,900 --> 00:21:19,700
So around the time that I stopped doing lead climbing when
452
00:21:19,700 --> 00:21:20,800
I stopped pushing for it.
453
00:21:22,100 --> 00:21:26,200
We made the decision to move to Germany and we picked Germany
454
00:21:26,200 --> 00:21:30,400
because first of all, there was a one-year visa that was only
455
00:21:30,400 --> 00:21:34,000
available to I think it's like 30 year olds and under it's
456
00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:35,400
like a youth mobility visa.
457
00:21:37,400 --> 00:21:38,300
So you can only use it.
458
00:21:38,300 --> 00:21:41,200
You can only apply for it once and so, you know, now's the
459
00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:44,200
time or young, you know, we're we're able to do this.
460
00:21:44,200 --> 00:21:46,200
We were under we were living with our families.
461
00:21:46,200 --> 00:21:49,300
We had a lot of like family support and so we made the big
462
00:21:49,400 --> 00:21:53,500
bold move to move to Frankfurt and Frankfurt is where we've
463
00:21:53,500 --> 00:21:56,200
got like Studio Block, which is the gym that hosts Studio
464
00:21:56,200 --> 00:21:59,400
Block Masters and it's an awesome gym is probably one of
465
00:21:59,400 --> 00:22:00,200
our favorite gyms.
466
00:22:00,200 --> 00:22:03,600
We've been there a couple times before and it's just it's a
467
00:22:03,600 --> 00:22:07,200
it's just a playground of bouldering and it's very competition
468
00:22:07,200 --> 00:22:07,800
focused.
469
00:22:07,800 --> 00:22:09,600
It's a great community there.
470
00:22:09,900 --> 00:22:12,500
There's a couple other gyms in the area as well, but just
471
00:22:12,500 --> 00:22:15,100
being in Europe in general is just such a great place to be
472
00:22:15,100 --> 00:22:15,700
for climbing.
473
00:22:15,700 --> 00:22:18,700
It's like it's probably 10 years ahead of Canada.
474
00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:21,800
So that was a great move.
475
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:24,900
We stayed there for I think it was 10 months in total.
476
00:22:25,900 --> 00:22:27,500
I happen to speak German as well.
477
00:22:27,500 --> 00:22:30,700
So that was a little bit of the draw from what like do you
478
00:22:30,700 --> 00:22:35,600
have German family or yeah, my my dad's side of the family
479
00:22:35,600 --> 00:22:39,200
is German and not fully like he's not a German citizen, but
480
00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:41,900
his I think his parents were and you know the generations
481
00:22:41,900 --> 00:22:42,500
before that.
482
00:22:42,500 --> 00:22:46,300
So I went to German school as a kid and I've always like,
483
00:22:46,300 --> 00:22:47,400
you know going to German school.
484
00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:48,500
You're like, what am I doing this for?
485
00:22:48,500 --> 00:22:51,700
I live in Canada like so my dream was always to go and use
486
00:22:51,700 --> 00:22:53,300
it in Germany.
487
00:22:53,300 --> 00:22:55,900
So when we had the opportunity, we're like, okay, it's a good
488
00:22:55,900 --> 00:22:57,600
climate community in Germany. Should we move there?
489
00:22:57,600 --> 00:22:59,600
I was like, I really want to do this.
490
00:22:59,600 --> 00:23:00,800
That sounds like a great time.
491
00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:04,500
So we had I had a great time in Germany.
492
00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:08,100
I think my husband was a little bit more kind of fish out of
493
00:23:08,100 --> 00:23:10,000
water didn't speak the language.
494
00:23:10,300 --> 00:23:12,800
So he's kind of relying on me and it's just hard to feel
495
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:15,100
like a tourist every day when you're in a different country
496
00:23:16,000 --> 00:23:17,300
like some countries are better than others.
497
00:23:17,300 --> 00:23:20,400
Of course, Germany, there's lots of English spoken, but it's
498
00:23:20,400 --> 00:23:23,800
definitely nowhere near being in your own country or being
499
00:23:23,800 --> 00:23:25,100
in the States for example.
500
00:23:25,100 --> 00:23:25,600
Oh, yeah.
501
00:23:26,800 --> 00:23:27,200
Yeah.
502
00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:29,300
So towards the end we were starting to get a little bit
503
00:23:29,300 --> 00:23:31,000
like, okay, you know, this was cool.
504
00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:34,900
The climbing was great, but it's probably time to move home.
505
00:23:35,800 --> 00:23:37,000
There were a couple options in the air.
506
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:38,000
We could have gone to Britain.
507
00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:40,400
We could have gone somewhere else, but we're like, you know
508
00:23:40,400 --> 00:23:40,600
what?
509
00:23:40,600 --> 00:23:42,800
We've never actually tried Montreal.
510
00:23:44,400 --> 00:23:47,400
As when we were living in Ontario, we would make monthly
511
00:23:47,400 --> 00:23:50,500
trips to Montreal because Montreal's gyms are just amazing
512
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:54,200
and there's so many of them very competition focused.
513
00:23:54,200 --> 00:23:56,600
It's certainly one of the best cities I think in the world
514
00:23:56,600 --> 00:24:00,600
for climbing and it happens to be, you know, six-hour drive
515
00:24:00,600 --> 00:24:01,500
from our house.
516
00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:05,700
So when we were done with Germany and we moved back to
517
00:24:05,700 --> 00:24:08,800
Canada, the next step was to just move to Montreal we
518
00:24:08,800 --> 00:24:12,600
thought so three months ago we moved to Montreal and that
519
00:24:12,600 --> 00:24:15,000
is where we are now and we have absolutely no regrets.
520
00:24:16,200 --> 00:24:17,400
I'll say in Montreal.
521
00:24:17,400 --> 00:24:22,300
They do speak French which is we don't speak.
522
00:24:22,300 --> 00:24:23,200
We don't speak French.
523
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:26,900
If you if you grow up anywhere outside of yeah, anywhere
524
00:24:26,900 --> 00:24:31,200
outside of Quebec in on in Canada, you don't really know
525
00:24:31,200 --> 00:24:35,300
French unless you take like French immersion in school, but
526
00:24:35,300 --> 00:24:37,900
the normal public school education they give you a bit of
527
00:24:37,900 --> 00:24:40,900
French but not nearly enough to be proficient at it.
528
00:24:40,900 --> 00:24:43,900
And once you hit high school, you can now drop French
529
00:24:43,900 --> 00:24:45,600
completely if you want to which I did.
530
00:24:45,600 --> 00:24:50,100
So yeah, French is pretty bad, but it's quite anglophone in
531
00:24:50,100 --> 00:24:50,900
Montreal.
532
00:24:50,900 --> 00:24:53,200
I've heard that it's a little bit less.
533
00:24:53,200 --> 00:24:55,200
There's a little bit less English outside of Montreal, but
534
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:56,800
we're just going to stay in Montreal.
535
00:24:56,800 --> 00:24:58,300
So I think we'll be fine.
536
00:24:58,300 --> 00:25:01,200
We'll probably have to learn a bit of French, but it's
537
00:25:01,200 --> 00:25:04,200
definitely like a slight barrier when it comes to living
538
00:25:04,200 --> 00:25:06,200
here despite being Canada.
539
00:25:06,600 --> 00:25:10,000
I didn't know it was like so much more French than English
540
00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:11,400
like French is the default.
541
00:25:12,300 --> 00:25:15,200
It's actually so Quebec actually is the only province in
542
00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:18,400
Canada that has French as its only official language.
543
00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:20,700
It doesn't it the English isn't even official language in
544
00:25:20,700 --> 00:25:21,200
Quebec.
545
00:25:21,700 --> 00:25:22,100
Okay.
546
00:25:22,100 --> 00:25:25,400
Yeah, I thought it was more English and then just like a
547
00:25:25,400 --> 00:25:29,000
bit more French than most people are used to know like all
548
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:32,100
the signs like the road signs are all in French like sometimes
549
00:25:32,100 --> 00:25:34,300
we'll be driving on the highway and they'll be like a sign
550
00:25:34,300 --> 00:25:36,600
and we'll be like, I hope that's not something important
551
00:25:36,600 --> 00:25:38,800
because I have no idea what that says.
552
00:25:39,300 --> 00:25:41,300
So yeah, it's it's a little bit.
553
00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:42,100
I'm not going to lie.
554
00:25:42,100 --> 00:25:44,900
It's a little bit frustrating because it's like we we didn't
555
00:25:44,900 --> 00:25:47,600
learn the French like we don't we just can't and it's it's
556
00:25:47,600 --> 00:25:50,000
hard to like have a whole province that you're just a
557
00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:53,600
little bit less almost welcoming, but I think they're
558
00:25:53,600 --> 00:25:57,400
they're very like they were colonized by France is like
559
00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:00,300
the Quebec thing and the rest of Canada was colonized by
560
00:26:00,300 --> 00:26:00,800
Britain.
561
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:03,500
So they do try to keep those kind of French roots, which I
562
00:26:03,500 --> 00:26:04,200
do respect.
563
00:26:05,300 --> 00:26:07,500
It's just it just makes it hard and I now have to learn
564
00:26:07,500 --> 00:26:10,800
another language to live in my own country, you know, yeah,
565
00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:11,200
cheese.
566
00:26:11,200 --> 00:26:12,800
That's that's rough.
567
00:26:12,900 --> 00:26:17,200
But yeah, so let's get into Canada climbing in general.
568
00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:20,700
You're the first Canadian climber I've had on I think in
569
00:26:20,700 --> 00:26:24,300
general people don't know that much about climbing in Canada
570
00:26:25,700 --> 00:26:30,300
since I guess the biggest stars have not come from Canada
571
00:26:30,300 --> 00:26:31,000
recently.
572
00:26:31,400 --> 00:26:33,300
There's just not that much info out there.
573
00:26:34,500 --> 00:26:35,100
For now.
574
00:26:35,100 --> 00:26:38,000
I think you mentioned that you were on the Athletes Commission
575
00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:40,900
for the climbing Escalade Canada.
576
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:42,300
Yeah, I'm working on it.
577
00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:44,200
Yeah, not yeah, not quite.
578
00:26:44,200 --> 00:26:50,000
Okay, do you know like any like some of the issues that the
579
00:26:50,000 --> 00:26:55,100
CC yeah, the CC many of like the issues that they're working
580
00:26:55,100 --> 00:26:55,900
on at the moment.
581
00:26:56,600 --> 00:27:00,700
Yeah, I think for the past probably ever like like forever.
582
00:27:00,700 --> 00:27:02,300
We've just been working on funding.
583
00:27:02,700 --> 00:27:04,500
I think that's our biggest thing.
584
00:27:04,500 --> 00:27:08,900
We try to optimize as much as we can with our funding constraints.
585
00:27:09,800 --> 00:27:12,900
But I think that's just that's just the elephant in the room
586
00:27:12,900 --> 00:27:17,600
with any topic we ever have to talk about this past year.
587
00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:22,400
We weren't able to send a coach out to the IFSC events with
588
00:27:22,400 --> 00:27:26,800
our athletes due to lack of funding and I think potentially
589
00:27:26,800 --> 00:27:30,400
lack of like just like we didn't maybe find an applicant.
590
00:27:30,400 --> 00:27:33,100
I'm not sure if that's the case, but I know it was definitely
591
00:27:33,100 --> 00:27:37,500
funding related and we don't pay our athletes.
592
00:27:37,500 --> 00:27:41,400
We don't cover accommodation costs or flights and it's that's
593
00:27:41,400 --> 00:27:45,000
just been the status quo forever and it's actually it's hard
594
00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:48,800
to talk to other countries knowing that they're you know,
595
00:27:48,800 --> 00:27:51,900
getting paid to go to the World Cups and I just feel like
596
00:27:51,900 --> 00:27:54,600
that's the dream when in reality for a lot of countries.
597
00:27:54,600 --> 00:27:55,800
It's like the status quo.
598
00:27:56,100 --> 00:27:58,700
So it's definitely a bit of an uphill battle when it comes
599
00:27:58,700 --> 00:28:00,400
to climbing in Canada.
600
00:28:00,400 --> 00:28:03,900
It's just so underdeveloped and we don't have is like we don't
601
00:28:03,900 --> 00:28:04,900
have a Canadian shoe brand.
602
00:28:04,900 --> 00:28:09,200
We don't have as many Canadian based brands that are in the
603
00:28:09,200 --> 00:28:11,500
climbing scene other than Arc'teryx.
604
00:28:13,400 --> 00:28:15,900
But yeah, it's it's it's a definite struggle.
605
00:28:16,700 --> 00:28:17,900
We've as the athletes.
606
00:28:17,900 --> 00:28:21,400
I think we feel it the most but I can I'm sure the CEC would
607
00:28:21,400 --> 00:28:24,300
say that like the climbing Escalade Canada would say that
608
00:28:24,800 --> 00:28:26,600
you know, it's hard just for everyone.
609
00:28:26,600 --> 00:28:30,300
We it's hard to like pay people to do the jobs in order to
610
00:28:30,300 --> 00:28:31,200
get more funding.
611
00:28:31,500 --> 00:28:34,400
It's just kind of an endless cycle and feel like the answer
612
00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:36,900
is always funding funding funding and it's just so hard
613
00:28:36,900 --> 00:28:38,100
to get it.
614
00:28:38,100 --> 00:28:41,100
So you mentioned that you guys don't have a coach this year.
615
00:28:41,100 --> 00:28:42,900
Is this just for the team in general?
616
00:28:43,800 --> 00:28:49,400
Yeah, we had a coach last year, but I think we he resigned
617
00:28:49,400 --> 00:28:52,900
towards the end of the year and then we haven't we just didn't
618
00:28:52,900 --> 00:28:53,800
get a new one this year.
619
00:28:53,800 --> 00:28:55,800
It was kind of announced at the beginning of the season that
620
00:28:55,800 --> 00:28:58,300
we're not going to be sending a team or a coach to any of
621
00:28:58,300 --> 00:29:01,000
the World Cups apart from the OQS events.
622
00:29:01,200 --> 00:29:03,600
We were able to send one guy out there.
623
00:29:03,600 --> 00:29:05,200
He wasn't actually an official coach.
624
00:29:05,200 --> 00:29:08,800
He went to the Pan-Ems last year and that was his first event
625
00:29:08,800 --> 00:29:09,900
and then he went straight to OQS.
626
00:29:09,900 --> 00:29:13,200
So he's only done Pan-Ems and the two OQS events the biggest
627
00:29:13,200 --> 00:29:17,100
ones. Yeah, that must be stressful for the coach as well.
628
00:29:17,100 --> 00:29:17,700
Of course.
629
00:29:17,700 --> 00:29:19,100
Yeah, I mean, he's a great guy too.
630
00:29:19,100 --> 00:29:20,300
He's like a climbing coach.
631
00:29:20,300 --> 00:29:23,600
Like it's not like he doesn't know how to coach and it would
632
00:29:23,600 --> 00:29:25,700
be great if he was the like national coach.
633
00:29:25,700 --> 00:29:28,100
I don't know what we're I don't think we have any plans kind
634
00:29:28,100 --> 00:29:29,000
of in store for that.
635
00:29:30,700 --> 00:29:31,900
But yeah, it was announced.
636
00:29:31,900 --> 00:29:35,700
I remember I was selected to go to the China World Cup and then
637
00:29:35,700 --> 00:29:39,100
they said, okay, there's also no coach and I accepted it and
638
00:29:39,100 --> 00:29:41,300
then they told us that and I was like kind of second-guessing
639
00:29:41,300 --> 00:29:43,600
it a little bit because it was you know, I haven't been to
640
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:47,300
China in like five years and I was actually the oldest person
641
00:29:47,300 --> 00:29:50,000
going to China like all the other athletes teammates were a
642
00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:51,200
year or two younger than me.
643
00:29:51,200 --> 00:29:54,300
So I felt like I was kind of the the person in charge and I
644
00:29:54,300 --> 00:29:57,200
didn't feel very competent at all going to China.
645
00:29:57,700 --> 00:30:00,000
So it was a little bit stressful.
646
00:30:00,000 --> 00:30:03,100
I had to do a lot of research and really kind of rely on
647
00:30:03,100 --> 00:30:06,300
myself to get around and you know, it was quite the
648
00:30:06,300 --> 00:30:10,800
responsibility and luckily we had the US national team coach
649
00:30:10,800 --> 00:30:11,900
help us out in China.
650
00:30:12,400 --> 00:30:14,400
He yeah, he grabbed our bibs.
651
00:30:14,400 --> 00:30:16,800
He told us whatever from the technical meeting.
652
00:30:17,500 --> 00:30:21,700
He like set me a boulder in the semi-qualification zone.
653
00:30:22,600 --> 00:30:23,200
So that was great.
654
00:30:23,200 --> 00:30:23,800
He was great.
655
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:27,100
But then I guess as the season went on, I think he was focusing
656
00:30:27,100 --> 00:30:32,500
on OQS and then we kind of lost our US coach help and so some
657
00:30:32,500 --> 00:30:35,400
athletes stepped up and started going to the technical meetings
658
00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:36,100
for the team.
659
00:30:37,100 --> 00:30:39,800
We had one athlete that was injured that was just showing
660
00:30:39,800 --> 00:30:43,800
up to support his brother is Victor Bodrand and he went to
661
00:30:43,800 --> 00:30:46,400
the technical meetings for us and he would like text us
662
00:30:46,400 --> 00:30:47,600
updates and all that sort of stuff.
663
00:30:47,600 --> 00:30:48,600
So he was amazing.
664
00:30:49,900 --> 00:30:53,000
But it is kind of a we're almost it's almost like unifying
665
00:30:53,000 --> 00:30:56,000
us as a team because we kind of have to step up for ourselves
666
00:30:56,000 --> 00:30:57,900
and support each other a little bit more than when we had a
667
00:30:57,900 --> 00:30:58,300
coach.
668
00:30:58,700 --> 00:31:00,600
So I actually don't really mind it.
669
00:31:01,400 --> 00:31:04,300
But at the same time it can be stressful when there's actually
670
00:31:04,300 --> 00:31:08,800
like important appeals to be done or or things to really
671
00:31:08,800 --> 00:31:09,500
navigate born.
672
00:31:09,500 --> 00:31:10,600
It's like smooth sailing.
673
00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:11,500
It's not so bad.
674
00:31:11,700 --> 00:31:12,100
Okay.
675
00:31:12,500 --> 00:31:18,100
Yeah, I guess I didn't realize like what kind of what kind of
676
00:31:18,100 --> 00:31:22,300
rules the coach takes on like when I think about a coach.
677
00:31:22,300 --> 00:31:24,900
I just think like oh someone who helps you with training or
678
00:31:24,900 --> 00:31:29,100
someone who helps you with your technique or things like that
679
00:31:29,100 --> 00:31:34,400
rather than all of the little logistical things that it sounds
680
00:31:34,400 --> 00:31:37,800
like a coach was working through for the Canadian team.
681
00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:41,400
Yeah, I'd say probably don't take the Canadian team definition
682
00:31:41,400 --> 00:31:45,500
of a coach as like the general coach role in teams.
683
00:31:45,900 --> 00:31:47,800
I'm not I don't have a great understanding of what other
684
00:31:47,800 --> 00:31:48,500
teams are doing.
685
00:31:48,500 --> 00:31:51,400
I know the US coach a little bit better and I know he's a
686
00:31:51,400 --> 00:31:53,600
bit more involved in like the actual training part.
687
00:31:53,600 --> 00:31:56,700
But for us in the Canadian team like as long as I've been on
688
00:31:56,700 --> 00:32:02,200
the team our coach position has really just been he would run
689
00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:05,500
kind of training camps in Canada and that would be all we'd
690
00:32:05,500 --> 00:32:09,000
see of him other than the World Cups and then we wouldn't
691
00:32:09,000 --> 00:32:11,800
get any programming specifically from the coach.
692
00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:15,000
It would be kind of personal coaches are our own person like
693
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:16,200
our own coaching of ourselves.
694
00:32:16,200 --> 00:32:19,700
But yeah, it is more of like an administrative task when it
695
00:32:19,700 --> 00:32:22,800
comes to World Cups like going to the going to the technical
696
00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:26,800
meeting getting the bibs hearing the rules asking questions
697
00:32:27,100 --> 00:32:29,600
and then at the actual event like just going into ISO with
698
00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:33,400
us making sure we're we know where we're going checking the
699
00:32:33,400 --> 00:32:36,800
running order kind of list and then going out watching us
700
00:32:36,800 --> 00:32:40,900
climb noting down our scores so that in case there's an
701
00:32:40,900 --> 00:32:46,500
appeal he can he or she can go and file that with the IFSC.
702
00:32:46,700 --> 00:32:51,400
So then does the Canada team train together much at all you
703
00:32:51,400 --> 00:32:54,300
like maybe have some training camps, but not that much.
704
00:32:55,000 --> 00:32:55,400
Yeah.
705
00:32:55,400 --> 00:32:57,800
Well, so our funding is kind of taking a dip in the last
706
00:32:57,800 --> 00:32:58,500
couple years.
707
00:32:58,800 --> 00:33:02,100
So we used to do lots of training camps probably I think
708
00:33:02,100 --> 00:33:04,300
we did like twice or three times a year.
709
00:33:04,600 --> 00:33:08,300
We have our selection event and then we'd have a training
710
00:33:08,300 --> 00:33:10,600
camp or two throughout the season in the past.
711
00:33:10,600 --> 00:33:13,300
We've all we've also had training camps between World
712
00:33:13,300 --> 00:33:16,000
Cups in certain countries because we're all just kind of
713
00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:18,300
if it's the same kind of group of people going from one World
714
00:33:18,300 --> 00:33:20,600
Cup to the other and then there's like a week between we'll
715
00:33:20,600 --> 00:33:21,900
just throw a training camp in there.
716
00:33:22,200 --> 00:33:24,300
So we've definitely done a lot more than we've done it this
717
00:33:24,300 --> 00:33:28,000
past year because we've been so we just haven't had the
718
00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:30,800
funding for it and the World Cups have also been really
719
00:33:30,800 --> 00:33:31,400
spaced out.
720
00:33:31,400 --> 00:33:35,100
So the in between World Cup training camps are like
721
00:33:35,100 --> 00:33:36,800
nonexistent even if we had the funding for it.
722
00:33:36,800 --> 00:33:39,700
It's like you can't we're not no one's sticking around after
723
00:33:39,700 --> 00:33:40,300
a World Cup.
724
00:33:40,300 --> 00:33:43,000
We just go home because it's expensive to have accommodation
725
00:33:43,000 --> 00:33:45,900
costs, but they're also just so far apart that it's not
726
00:33:45,900 --> 00:33:46,500
feasible.
727
00:33:46,500 --> 00:33:51,000
But yeah, Canada is a really really big country and the
728
00:33:51,000 --> 00:33:53,700
States is too, but I think the difference is the National
729
00:33:53,700 --> 00:33:54,900
Training Center.
730
00:33:54,900 --> 00:34:00,600
We don't really have one gym or one city that we kind of
731
00:34:00,600 --> 00:34:04,400
call athletes to Montreal is obviously I think one of the
732
00:34:04,400 --> 00:34:08,300
best gym cities in Canada and some people just naturally
733
00:34:08,300 --> 00:34:08,900
live here.
734
00:34:08,900 --> 00:34:13,500
But Zach and I my husband have been the only ones to really
735
00:34:13,500 --> 00:34:15,900
make the move to Montreal for training.
736
00:34:15,900 --> 00:34:18,300
There's been no other national team athletes that have done
737
00:34:18,300 --> 00:34:18,600
that.
738
00:34:18,600 --> 00:34:21,900
There's one there's been one Victor Bodrand who moved from
739
00:34:21,900 --> 00:34:24,500
Salt Lake City to Montreal a couple years ago for school
740
00:34:24,500 --> 00:34:26,100
and for climbing I'm assuming.
741
00:34:26,100 --> 00:34:30,800
But yeah, it's it's really hard to get together with national
742
00:34:30,800 --> 00:34:34,300
team athletes, especially when they live in BC and like the
743
00:34:34,300 --> 00:34:37,100
cost to go from like a ticket to take a whole flight to get
744
00:34:37,100 --> 00:34:38,400
over to train with them.
745
00:34:38,400 --> 00:34:44,600
So unless the the CC could fund us more to to come together
746
00:34:44,600 --> 00:34:47,800
for a training camp, it's really not in the cards unless they
747
00:34:47,800 --> 00:34:49,800
live in the same city as you.
748
00:34:49,800 --> 00:34:54,000
Yeah, because BC would be like the other place where there's
749
00:34:54,000 --> 00:34:56,500
a lot of climbers right like that's where the outdoor
750
00:34:56,500 --> 00:34:58,400
climbing is as well like exactly.
751
00:34:58,400 --> 00:35:03,600
Yeah, so that's where Sean Atlanta lived and competed and
752
00:35:03,600 --> 00:35:06,600
trained and then the McNamee twins are there as well.
753
00:35:06,600 --> 00:35:10,000
And we have Becca Frangos at West.
754
00:35:10,000 --> 00:35:12,300
There's a whole bunch of people out there and then it feels
755
00:35:12,300 --> 00:35:16,800
like you're either in BC or you're in either Ontario or
756
00:35:16,800 --> 00:35:20,000
Quebec. So so every once in a while someone from some
757
00:35:20,000 --> 00:35:22,800
athletes from Ontario will drive up to Montreal, but it
758
00:35:22,800 --> 00:35:25,900
won't be for more than a weekend and oftentimes just because
759
00:35:25,900 --> 00:35:27,500
we've never really hung out together.
760
00:35:27,500 --> 00:35:29,400
We don't really know each other that well either.
761
00:35:29,400 --> 00:35:32,100
So oftentimes they'll come up but they'll just kind of do
762
00:35:32,100 --> 00:35:34,800
their own thing or we happen to run into them in the gym.
763
00:35:34,800 --> 00:35:36,600
We don't really climb together anyway.
764
00:35:36,600 --> 00:35:38,700
So it's really tough.
765
00:35:38,700 --> 00:35:40,600
It's we were starting to make friends.
766
00:35:40,600 --> 00:35:44,400
I think in Montreal just me and Zach specifically which I've
767
00:35:44,400 --> 00:35:47,000
never really made friends in the past on the national team
768
00:35:47,000 --> 00:35:51,700
just because of the geography and just just naturally it
769
00:35:51,700 --> 00:35:52,700
just hasn't really happened.
770
00:35:52,700 --> 00:35:56,400
But when you just live in the same area as someone for a
771
00:35:56,400 --> 00:35:58,900
couple months, you just start to see him more often then you
772
00:35:58,900 --> 00:36:01,400
get to know them more and it just happens naturally and I
773
00:36:01,400 --> 00:36:04,100
think in the past the CC has tried to almost like force it
774
00:36:04,100 --> 00:36:08,200
a little bit not in like an aggressive way, but more like
775
00:36:08,200 --> 00:36:10,100
hey, we're going to host like a friendship camp and they'll
776
00:36:10,100 --> 00:36:12,500
call it friendship camp and then they'll say, okay make
777
00:36:12,500 --> 00:36:16,400
friends and we just feel like this isn't really how friendship
778
00:36:16,400 --> 00:36:19,900
works like you kind of need to like go about it naturally.
779
00:36:19,900 --> 00:36:24,000
So I think for us I've now finally realized what natural
780
00:36:24,200 --> 00:36:27,100
national team friendships are like and it's really awesome,
781
00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:30,700
but it's hard to get everyone on board when we don't see
782
00:36:30,700 --> 00:36:31,500
each other enough.
783
00:36:31,800 --> 00:36:35,600
Yeah, I think proximity is like one of the pain drivers of
784
00:36:35,600 --> 00:36:37,000
friendship just for sure.
785
00:36:37,000 --> 00:36:41,900
Yeah, it's a shame that there's just so much like nothingness
786
00:36:41,900 --> 00:36:43,300
in between in Canada.
787
00:36:43,300 --> 00:36:44,100
I guess.
788
00:36:44,400 --> 00:36:48,100
Yeah, there's actually so we've got 13 provinces and territories
789
00:36:48,100 --> 00:36:52,300
in total and I think only like eight or seven of them are
790
00:36:52,300 --> 00:36:55,100
actually registered provinces with the CEC.
791
00:36:55,700 --> 00:36:59,500
So like Saskatchewan for example, I'm pretty sure Saskatchewan
792
00:36:59,500 --> 00:37:01,900
is one of the ones in between there's I think there's
793
00:37:01,900 --> 00:37:05,300
Alberta Saskatchewan and Manitoba are all between Ontario
794
00:37:05,300 --> 00:37:09,700
and BC and Alberta is definitely a big player in the CEC,
795
00:37:09,700 --> 00:37:13,900
but the Manitoba and Saskatchewan are very few athletes
796
00:37:13,900 --> 00:37:15,900
there and it's a huge amount of area.
797
00:37:15,900 --> 00:37:18,800
So like got to really jump all the way over those two provinces
798
00:37:18,800 --> 00:37:21,100
if you want to go connect with some other athletes.
799
00:37:21,500 --> 00:37:22,700
Yeah, that definitely makes it rough.
800
00:37:22,700 --> 00:37:24,300
So makes a lot of sense.
801
00:37:25,400 --> 00:37:29,200
So one of the discord questions that came in I think kind of
802
00:37:29,200 --> 00:37:30,200
fit in here.
803
00:37:30,900 --> 00:37:34,800
They asked with Alana and Sean retiring the season what
804
00:37:34,800 --> 00:37:37,600
obstacles will the new generation of Canadian athletes
805
00:37:37,600 --> 00:37:41,600
need to overcome to outperform their precursors?
806
00:37:41,900 --> 00:37:44,800
Yeah, so I've actually thought about this a little bit.
807
00:37:45,300 --> 00:37:48,200
I find I'm pretty competitive with Alana.
808
00:37:48,600 --> 00:37:51,300
I think towards the end of her career when she was still
809
00:37:51,300 --> 00:37:53,000
competing in the IFSC World Cups.
810
00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:55,800
I was starting to be a little neck-and-neck with her and then
811
00:37:55,800 --> 00:37:57,800
there was a point where I was like, oh my gosh, I'm starting
812
00:37:57,800 --> 00:38:00,000
to like outperform her and it was like the craziest thing
813
00:38:00,000 --> 00:38:05,300
considering all the semi she's made the final and the Olympics
814
00:38:05,300 --> 00:38:10,300
like it's just a crazy kind of torch to try to hold and I
815
00:38:10,300 --> 00:38:14,200
think climbing in general is also changing a lot and back
816
00:38:14,200 --> 00:38:18,200
in the day it was I think we saw a lot more consistency in
817
00:38:18,200 --> 00:38:19,800
our semi-finalist and finalists.
818
00:38:20,600 --> 00:38:23,700
That's how we kind of created like almost like the old guard
819
00:38:24,100 --> 00:38:27,200
which like like you kind of would be able to predict who's
820
00:38:27,200 --> 00:38:29,900
in like almost every final and every semi-final.
821
00:38:29,900 --> 00:38:34,600
And so Sean and Lana were like in a lot of the finals and
822
00:38:34,600 --> 00:38:37,400
semis and as their careers got went on, of course, they got
823
00:38:37,400 --> 00:38:38,100
stronger as well.
824
00:38:38,100 --> 00:38:40,800
They kept making semis, but it would be a little like more
825
00:38:40,800 --> 00:38:43,400
few and far between because the dynamic nature of boulders
826
00:38:43,900 --> 00:38:46,700
and the low percentage moves and all that sort of new school
827
00:38:46,700 --> 00:38:49,200
moves are really shaking it up a little bit.
828
00:38:49,700 --> 00:38:53,700
And so it's almost like it's you almost try to now think of
829
00:38:53,700 --> 00:38:56,700
it like I'm not directly comparing one-to-one with Alana
830
00:38:56,700 --> 00:39:00,500
for example anymore because it is such it's not a different
831
00:39:00,500 --> 00:39:03,900
sport, but it's pretty pretty different if we're comparing
832
00:39:03,900 --> 00:39:05,700
2014 to 2024.
833
00:39:05,700 --> 00:39:06,900
It's huge difference.
834
00:39:07,400 --> 00:39:13,000
And so for that reason I try to try to not to like compare
835
00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:16,200
my results exactly to hers and you know in the back of my
836
00:39:16,200 --> 00:39:16,400
mind.
837
00:39:16,400 --> 00:39:18,500
I'm like, okay, well she made this many semis.
838
00:39:18,500 --> 00:39:21,300
Maybe I can try to like try to live up to that.
839
00:39:21,300 --> 00:39:23,900
Maybe that's a number I can try to beat but it's just really
840
00:39:23,900 --> 00:39:25,200
not the exact same.
841
00:39:25,200 --> 00:39:30,700
So it's more just like I just want to you know, be like her
842
00:39:30,700 --> 00:39:35,900
but not be who she was if that makes sense is I guess do you
843
00:39:35,900 --> 00:39:40,600
feel like comparison is a big part of the competition for you
844
00:39:40,600 --> 00:39:44,400
because I know some people try to like not have comparison
845
00:39:44,400 --> 00:39:45,500
in the back of their mind.
846
00:39:45,500 --> 00:39:49,000
It like depends on their how they like to mentally approach
847
00:39:49,000 --> 00:39:49,100
it.
848
00:39:49,100 --> 00:39:49,500
I guess.
849
00:39:50,000 --> 00:39:53,600
Yeah, I mean, it's tough to to not you know, like especially
850
00:39:53,600 --> 00:39:56,000
if you're one-to-one in a competition with someone and
851
00:39:56,000 --> 00:39:57,200
you're on the exact same boulders.
852
00:39:57,200 --> 00:40:00,200
It's like how can you how can you not compare everyone's
853
00:40:00,200 --> 00:40:01,300
performance against each other?
854
00:40:01,700 --> 00:40:04,700
Please excuse this brief intermission, but I've gotten a
855
00:40:04,700 --> 00:40:05,700
few requests for this.
856
00:40:05,700 --> 00:40:09,100
So I just wanted to announce that if you're interested in
857
00:40:09,100 --> 00:40:14,100
helping support the show my patreon page is now live some
858
00:40:14,100 --> 00:40:17,600
perks include ad free interruption free episodes deleted
859
00:40:17,600 --> 00:40:20,700
scenes prioritized guest questions or the ability to
860
00:40:20,700 --> 00:40:23,900
submit video questions and enamel pin is shipped to you
861
00:40:23,900 --> 00:40:27,700
after two months of membership and much more to come the
862
00:40:27,700 --> 00:40:31,200
proceeds go back into the podcast help me break even and
863
00:40:31,200 --> 00:40:34,200
they help improve the experience of the guests if you'd
864
00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:37,600
like to support the podcast on monetarily liking commenting
865
00:40:37,600 --> 00:40:41,100
and sharing helps a great deal as well back to the show
866
00:40:41,600 --> 00:40:43,700
especially climbing is an individual sport.
867
00:40:43,700 --> 00:40:47,000
So it's like you are you're like it's just you like even
868
00:40:47,000 --> 00:40:49,700
being on a national team doesn't mean quite as much as
869
00:40:49,700 --> 00:40:53,600
it would on like a team sport where it is a team like the
870
00:40:53,600 --> 00:40:56,100
national team in Canada is really just a bunch of Canadians
871
00:40:56,300 --> 00:40:59,800
competing against each other now not in Canada, but in a
872
00:40:59,800 --> 00:41:00,600
different country.
873
00:41:02,000 --> 00:41:04,400
So yeah, you definitely compare against the Canadians more
874
00:41:04,400 --> 00:41:06,700
like I compare against the Canadians more than anyone
875
00:41:06,700 --> 00:41:08,500
else. There's a couple people.
876
00:41:08,500 --> 00:41:11,100
I'm now like kind of chasing and kind of have my eye on in
877
00:41:11,100 --> 00:41:14,400
the World Cup circuit as someone I think like athletes that
878
00:41:14,400 --> 00:41:17,300
perform similarly to me like maybe someone I can kind of
879
00:41:17,300 --> 00:41:21,500
chase and be motivated by but I find that the most difficult
880
00:41:21,500 --> 00:41:24,200
competition is definitely the national level because we're
881
00:41:24,200 --> 00:41:28,600
all kind of vying for the the like fame does the support
882
00:41:28,600 --> 00:41:30,500
and admiration I guess of our country.
883
00:41:30,800 --> 00:41:33,700
So you kind of want to be like the the country favorite.
884
00:41:33,700 --> 00:41:37,600
I think is what we're all trying to to go for and yeah,
885
00:41:37,600 --> 00:41:39,900
it's hard to have all this stuff flying around like I'm
886
00:41:39,900 --> 00:41:42,400
trying to compete in World Cups and do my best there, but
887
00:41:42,400 --> 00:41:46,100
I'm also trying to like do well nationally and like keep
888
00:41:46,100 --> 00:41:49,500
going with the the people that I've grown up with competing
889
00:41:49,800 --> 00:41:54,200
against. So yeah, like competition like it's good and it's
890
00:41:54,200 --> 00:41:58,800
bad and it just is ever-present and it's hard to ignore and
891
00:41:59,600 --> 00:42:02,100
I think just you kind of got to go day by day and case by
892
00:42:02,100 --> 00:42:05,800
case like event by event like trying not to let it be the
893
00:42:05,800 --> 00:42:07,400
negative over the positive.
894
00:42:07,600 --> 00:42:09,900
So the comparison kind of fuels you in a way.
895
00:42:10,100 --> 00:42:13,300
Yeah, as long as it doesn't get it doesn't go too far.
896
00:42:13,300 --> 00:42:17,800
I find like with Nationals specifically national finals
897
00:42:17,800 --> 00:42:21,500
like trying to win Nationals is very difficult task and I
898
00:42:21,500 --> 00:42:24,000
think it has the most pressure of any competition I go to
899
00:42:25,700 --> 00:42:28,800
like World Cups are great and I've seen lots of success in
900
00:42:28,800 --> 00:42:32,300
World Cups, but Nationals I've never actually won Nationals
901
00:42:32,700 --> 00:42:36,700
and I've made finals seven years in a row now and I've
902
00:42:36,700 --> 00:42:39,200
made the podium six years in a row and it's starting to be
903
00:42:39,200 --> 00:42:43,200
very frustrating and like I said, like we're all kind of
904
00:42:43,200 --> 00:42:48,200
vying for the the best in Canada like the title and I just
905
00:42:48,200 --> 00:42:51,500
feel like you know my World Cup results aside.
906
00:42:51,500 --> 00:42:53,500
I feel like I've never really punched that ticket.
907
00:42:53,500 --> 00:42:58,000
I've never really like found that success and I think for
908
00:42:58,000 --> 00:43:01,800
a lot of athletes now it's like at the national team level
909
00:43:01,900 --> 00:43:04,800
that is like a tech box.
910
00:43:04,800 --> 00:43:07,700
You have to like check off at some point in your career.
911
00:43:08,000 --> 00:43:10,700
And so the pressure when it comes down to finals at
912
00:43:10,700 --> 00:43:15,400
Nationals is humongous and it's yeah, it's become kind of
913
00:43:15,400 --> 00:43:16,100
a competition.
914
00:43:16,100 --> 00:43:20,100
I dread a little bit at times, especially given my history
915
00:43:20,100 --> 00:43:23,200
at the event, but this year it's in Montreal, which is
916
00:43:23,200 --> 00:43:26,400
awesome because it's a bit more comfortable know the gym
917
00:43:26,400 --> 00:43:28,900
know the community but at the same time it could be more
918
00:43:28,900 --> 00:43:32,000
pressure because you know, my whole peer group is there
919
00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:35,400
and the community is there but I don't know how I'm going
920
00:43:35,400 --> 00:43:38,400
to to approach Nationals this year, but I know my mindset
921
00:43:38,400 --> 00:43:42,100
has been way too hyper comparison focused and competition
922
00:43:42,100 --> 00:43:45,100
focused at Nationals and I need to find a way to put that
923
00:43:45,100 --> 00:43:48,500
aside and just focus on climbing itself.
924
00:43:48,700 --> 00:43:49,000
Okay.
925
00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,400
Well best of luck to you at that Nationals and hopefully
926
00:43:52,400 --> 00:43:57,100
you can find maybe like a I don't know one of those mental
927
00:43:57,200 --> 00:43:58,000
coaches.
928
00:43:58,000 --> 00:43:59,700
Maybe that can help you push through honestly.
929
00:43:59,700 --> 00:44:01,200
I think that is probably the next step.
930
00:44:01,200 --> 00:44:01,600
Yeah.
931
00:44:01,900 --> 00:44:03,100
Well, good luck to you there.
932
00:44:03,800 --> 00:44:08,100
So moving on to I guess like your social media and YouTube
933
00:44:08,100 --> 00:44:09,200
side of things.
934
00:44:09,900 --> 00:44:12,400
Well, I guess lack of social media.
935
00:44:12,800 --> 00:44:15,000
You mentioned that you've been off of social media since
936
00:44:15,000 --> 00:44:16,900
you were 18 to focus on training.
937
00:44:18,000 --> 00:44:22,800
Did you have social media before then like you or like
938
00:44:23,000 --> 00:44:25,500
did you super have social media where you were on it all
939
00:44:25,500 --> 00:44:27,700
the time and you like found it super distracting?
940
00:44:27,800 --> 00:44:30,600
Yeah, I was a super social media kind of person.
941
00:44:31,100 --> 00:44:34,100
It's actually the more years that go by the like less the
942
00:44:34,100 --> 00:44:36,200
more I start to forget what it really was like.
943
00:44:36,200 --> 00:44:39,600
I remember when I first quit it was a big it was a big
944
00:44:39,600 --> 00:44:41,800
change in my life because it was all consuming.
945
00:44:41,800 --> 00:44:43,300
It was it was in my head.
946
00:44:43,300 --> 00:44:45,200
It was like in my in the training room.
947
00:44:45,200 --> 00:44:46,600
Like it was it was everywhere.
948
00:44:47,900 --> 00:44:50,200
Yeah, so I you know, I was on social media kind of as a
949
00:44:50,200 --> 00:44:53,600
kid would be you know social media Instagram specifically
950
00:44:53,600 --> 00:44:57,900
came about just as I was about I think like 14 or 13.
951
00:44:58,200 --> 00:45:00,900
So it was right like right exactly when I should have
952
00:45:00,900 --> 00:45:03,000
joined it and that's when it became a thing.
953
00:45:03,000 --> 00:45:05,500
So it was like all the rage everyone that's everyone
954
00:45:05,500 --> 00:45:06,200
joined it.
955
00:45:06,300 --> 00:45:10,000
So I did as well and it was only when I started seeing
956
00:45:10,000 --> 00:45:13,300
some success in climbing that it started turning into a
957
00:45:13,300 --> 00:45:14,400
bigger thing in my life.
958
00:45:14,400 --> 00:45:17,100
It never used to be it was always just you know chatting
959
00:45:17,100 --> 00:45:20,600
with friends posting random photos that no one cares about
960
00:45:20,700 --> 00:45:23,400
and then all of a sudden I was like winning youth nationals
961
00:45:23,400 --> 00:45:26,800
and I was like going to World Cups and it became very
962
00:45:26,800 --> 00:45:29,200
important to me and it felt like it was becoming part of
963
00:45:29,200 --> 00:45:31,900
the the how to be how to make a career in climbing.
964
00:45:31,900 --> 00:45:37,900
So I was on it a lot and I definitely got carried away
965
00:45:37,900 --> 00:45:42,800
with it and I think I got carried away kind of not because
966
00:45:42,800 --> 00:45:44,700
of my own not because of me.
967
00:45:44,700 --> 00:45:46,500
It was more because of the the platform.
968
00:45:46,500 --> 00:45:52,000
It's just made to be addictive I find and as a competitor
969
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:55,300
I feel like I'm one of the more competitive competitors
970
00:45:55,300 --> 00:45:55,800
out there.
971
00:45:55,800 --> 00:46:01,000
And so just seeing other athletes other teammates on
972
00:46:01,000 --> 00:46:03,700
social media doing what they're doing, you know looking
973
00:46:03,700 --> 00:46:04,300
strong.
974
00:46:04,300 --> 00:46:05,600
They sent that boulder.
975
00:46:05,600 --> 00:46:06,600
I was just at that gym.
976
00:46:06,600 --> 00:46:07,900
I didn't send that boulder.
977
00:46:08,500 --> 00:46:10,000
They're sending hard outside.
978
00:46:10,000 --> 00:46:11,000
I don't climb outside.
979
00:46:11,000 --> 00:46:14,800
So it's like I don't know if I would even like ever be
980
00:46:14,800 --> 00:46:17,700
able to do that kind of thing, you know seeing their
981
00:46:17,700 --> 00:46:20,500
results seeing what they're eating like it just was way
982
00:46:20,500 --> 00:46:23,800
too much for me and I only realized that probably two or
983
00:46:23,800 --> 00:46:26,500
three years in when I saw it was starting to kind of
984
00:46:26,500 --> 00:46:29,600
impact my my performance and my mindset and my mental
985
00:46:29,600 --> 00:46:34,600
health. So when I was 18, I was doing a lot of reading
986
00:46:34,600 --> 00:46:39,900
about ego and philosophy and all that sort of stuff and
987
00:46:39,900 --> 00:46:42,500
I realized that I think social media was kind of at the
988
00:46:42,500 --> 00:46:46,100
heart of some of the negativity I found in my mental
989
00:46:46,100 --> 00:46:52,400
state and so it was I right before one of the open
990
00:46:52,400 --> 00:46:56,200
national championships that I decided to completely get
991
00:46:56,200 --> 00:46:59,200
rid of the app get rid of my account and just leave
992
00:46:59,200 --> 00:47:03,700
social media permanently and it to this day.
993
00:47:03,700 --> 00:47:05,600
I think it's one of the most important decisions I've
994
00:47:05,600 --> 00:47:06,800
made as a person.
995
00:47:07,800 --> 00:47:09,200
I did it for the training side.
996
00:47:09,200 --> 00:47:12,100
I think mostly sure there were some pretty compelling
997
00:47:12,900 --> 00:47:14,900
mental health reasons behind it as well.
998
00:47:14,900 --> 00:47:18,800
But the benefit it had to my training immediately was
999
00:47:18,800 --> 00:47:21,800
just it was unparalleled all of a sudden.
1000
00:47:21,800 --> 00:47:24,400
I would go to the gym and my mind would just be quiet.
1001
00:47:24,400 --> 00:47:26,800
Like I wasn't I didn't know what other people were doing.
1002
00:47:26,800 --> 00:47:29,600
I was just like I had my head down and I was just like
1003
00:47:29,600 --> 00:47:33,100
focusing on myself and my training and my climbing and
1004
00:47:33,100 --> 00:47:35,800
when Nationals rolled around it ended up being one of
1005
00:47:35,800 --> 00:47:37,400
the best Nationals of my life.
1006
00:47:37,400 --> 00:47:41,100
I almost beat a Lana as I said like my lifelong competitor
1007
00:47:41,100 --> 00:47:44,000
and at the time I had no business being beating a Lana.
1008
00:47:44,000 --> 00:47:46,500
It was not definitely I was not in my prime.
1009
00:47:46,500 --> 00:47:49,500
I was she was definitely the best in Canada at the time,
1010
00:47:49,500 --> 00:47:52,800
but I came very close and it shocked me and it really
1011
00:47:52,800 --> 00:47:58,800
motivated me and it was I think largely due to my departure
1012
00:47:58,800 --> 00:48:00,700
from social media just a few months earlier.
1013
00:48:01,800 --> 00:48:04,700
And yeah to this day I am still off of Instagram.
1014
00:48:04,700 --> 00:48:08,900
I don't have any social media platforms other than YouTube.
1015
00:48:10,200 --> 00:48:12,800
And so yeah, it's a pretty quiet life.
1016
00:48:12,800 --> 00:48:14,400
My phone is very quiet.
1017
00:48:14,400 --> 00:48:16,300
Like I don't get very many notifications.
1018
00:48:17,300 --> 00:48:19,700
If people want to message me, they typically message my
1019
00:48:19,700 --> 00:48:23,100
husband and they kind of speak to him as if they're
1020
00:48:23,100 --> 00:48:25,500
speaking to me, which is a little bit strange, but I do
1021
00:48:25,500 --> 00:48:27,400
have a phone number so that people could text me but for
1022
00:48:27,400 --> 00:48:30,800
whatever reason Instagram is still the platform of choice
1023
00:48:30,800 --> 00:48:31,700
for instant messaging.
1024
00:48:32,000 --> 00:48:33,100
Yeah, that's a big one.
1025
00:48:33,500 --> 00:48:34,000
Yeah.
1026
00:48:34,000 --> 00:48:35,900
So yeah, there are absolutely drawbacks.
1027
00:48:35,900 --> 00:48:37,500
Like I don't get as many messages.
1028
00:48:37,500 --> 00:48:41,600
I don't get maybe as many opportunities for hanging out
1029
00:48:41,600 --> 00:48:44,800
with people or going to events whatever it happens to be.
1030
00:48:45,200 --> 00:48:47,200
But I think I've at least for me.
1031
00:48:47,200 --> 00:48:50,700
I think I've made a pretty fair trade-off in terms of the
1032
00:48:50,700 --> 00:48:53,400
mental health side benefits from it.
1033
00:48:53,800 --> 00:48:58,300
So yeah, a bit of FOMO, but I think my husband he does
1034
00:48:58,300 --> 00:48:59,400
have a social media account.
1035
00:48:59,400 --> 00:49:01,900
He did delete it for a while when we first started dating.
1036
00:49:02,100 --> 00:49:06,200
I convinced him to delete it of course and but he got it
1037
00:49:06,200 --> 00:49:09,500
back probably a year later and I think like I'm okay with
1038
00:49:09,500 --> 00:49:12,200
it. I think one of us I think it's good to have us kind
1039
00:49:12,200 --> 00:49:13,200
of more out there.
1040
00:49:13,200 --> 00:49:19,100
It is hard to make a career in Canada in climbing when you
1041
00:49:19,100 --> 00:49:21,100
have no, you know online presence.
1042
00:49:21,100 --> 00:49:23,900
So he helps a lot with that and then the YouTube I think
1043
00:49:23,900 --> 00:49:25,300
does the rest of the legwork.
1044
00:49:25,500 --> 00:49:28,800
You mentioned that for a lot of climbers.
1045
00:49:28,800 --> 00:49:33,100
It kind of seems like social media is partially how you
1046
00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800
fund your pro climber journey.
1047
00:49:36,200 --> 00:49:39,600
Have you found it hurts like sponsorship prospects without
1048
00:49:39,600 --> 00:49:40,700
having social media?
1049
00:49:40,700 --> 00:49:44,600
Yeah, it probably did for the first few years.
1050
00:49:45,100 --> 00:49:48,900
Luckily, I had a couple sponsors at the time and they
1051
00:49:48,900 --> 00:49:52,300
did not they didn't care that I left social media and I
1052
00:49:52,300 --> 00:49:55,000
think that's that's a good it was almost like it's kind of
1053
00:49:55,000 --> 00:49:55,900
like a data point.
1054
00:49:55,900 --> 00:49:58,600
I use when I'm kind of saying this other people that people
1055
00:49:58,600 --> 00:50:02,600
are afraid of losing the sponsorship side and you know of
1056
00:50:02,600 --> 00:50:04,100
all the sponsors I've spoken to you.
1057
00:50:04,100 --> 00:50:07,100
There's a couple outliers, but most of them say like we
1058
00:50:07,100 --> 00:50:08,900
don't really care about the social media side.
1059
00:50:08,900 --> 00:50:10,800
We don't care how many followers you have.
1060
00:50:10,800 --> 00:50:13,400
It's more about who you are and what you represent and
1061
00:50:13,400 --> 00:50:14,200
what you're doing.
1062
00:50:14,700 --> 00:50:18,200
And of course it does help to show more people what you're
1063
00:50:18,200 --> 00:50:21,800
doing, but I think a lot of people have Instagram and
1064
00:50:21,800 --> 00:50:24,200
it's not as much of a unique thing anymore.
1065
00:50:25,200 --> 00:50:27,600
I think what's unique is kind of putting yourself out
1066
00:50:27,600 --> 00:50:28,600
there in different ways.
1067
00:50:29,000 --> 00:50:31,500
And for me we found I found like a blog.
1068
00:50:31,500 --> 00:50:33,300
I've been blogging this whole time.
1069
00:50:33,300 --> 00:50:35,700
I've never stopped blogging since leading social media.
1070
00:50:36,100 --> 00:50:38,700
I probably blogged more to be honest and it's it's a more
1071
00:50:38,700 --> 00:50:43,800
I feel like high quality just more more thinking goes into
1072
00:50:43,800 --> 00:50:47,700
my blogs more more attention and I think I'm putting out
1073
00:50:47,700 --> 00:50:52,500
something that I really am proud of on my blog and same
1074
00:50:52,500 --> 00:50:53,000
with YouTube.
1075
00:50:53,000 --> 00:50:55,700
You know, we're putting together really, you know difficult
1076
00:50:55,700 --> 00:50:59,000
to put together videos and it's not quite as easy as just
1077
00:50:59,000 --> 00:51:00,000
posting a photo.
1078
00:51:00,300 --> 00:51:03,600
I think there's there's some inherent extra value when it
1079
00:51:03,600 --> 00:51:07,600
comes to sponsors in that and yeah, so but yeah for the
1080
00:51:07,600 --> 00:51:10,000
first two years it probably did hurt because I didn't have
1081
00:51:10,000 --> 00:51:13,400
the YouTube and my blog was it was okay, but it definitely
1082
00:51:13,400 --> 00:51:15,400
wasn't very popular.
1083
00:51:16,000 --> 00:51:20,000
So it wasn't until we started YouTube that the sponsorship
1084
00:51:20,000 --> 00:51:22,900
started coming and it is is kind of when I joined forces
1085
00:51:22,900 --> 00:51:26,400
with Zach to when we got married that we started to kind
1086
00:51:26,400 --> 00:51:31,500
of have a combined almost not celebrity status, but we had
1087
00:51:31,500 --> 00:51:33,700
more supporters together and we were together.
1088
00:51:33,700 --> 00:51:38,300
We kind of almost advertise ourselves together. And so in
1089
00:51:38,300 --> 00:51:40,500
this past year, we've seen I've seen more sponsors and I've
1090
00:51:40,500 --> 00:51:44,500
seen in the last five years and it's been without Instagram.
1091
00:51:44,500 --> 00:51:46,400
I think our Instagram has nothing to do with it.
1092
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:48,900
His Instagram is not super popular.
1093
00:51:48,900 --> 00:51:53,200
He only started it like a year ago or so and it's more just
1094
00:51:53,200 --> 00:51:56,000
about what we're doing and how we're involved in our Montreal
1095
00:51:56,000 --> 00:51:56,900
community right now.
1096
00:51:57,200 --> 00:52:01,600
Yeah, do you have any plans or interests of getting back on
1097
00:52:01,600 --> 00:52:04,600
social media in the future? Maybe when you're done competing
1098
00:52:04,600 --> 00:52:09,000
or yeah, it absolutely crosses my mind probably like once
1099
00:52:09,000 --> 00:52:11,100
every six months or so I start thinking.
1100
00:52:11,100 --> 00:52:14,300
Okay, am I really am I really hurting myself here?
1101
00:52:14,700 --> 00:52:18,700
But I think the further away I get from my time on social
1102
00:52:18,700 --> 00:52:23,600
media the more I forget how much I didn't enjoy my headspace
1103
00:52:23,600 --> 00:52:24,700
when I was on social media.
1104
00:52:25,100 --> 00:52:29,300
So I have a blog post on like an article on my blog that
1105
00:52:29,300 --> 00:52:32,700
kind of tells my whole story about how I went from social
1106
00:52:32,700 --> 00:52:36,000
media to deleting it and it was actually pretty popular got
1107
00:52:36,000 --> 00:52:39,200
picked up by another blog like a really big blog and it
1108
00:52:39,200 --> 00:52:44,400
started kind of getting like semi-viral and it kind of really
1109
00:52:44,400 --> 00:52:47,000
like all the comments on the other blog like the people who
1110
00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:49,800
saw this article it went pretty big and like so many people
1111
00:52:49,800 --> 00:52:52,900
like messaged me after saying after reading your blog I
1112
00:52:52,900 --> 00:52:55,900
deleted social media or you know, this really like made me
1113
00:52:55,900 --> 00:52:57,600
think harder about what I'm doing online.
1114
00:52:57,600 --> 00:53:00,000
It really gave me some positive reinforcement for what I
1115
00:53:00,000 --> 00:53:00,600
was doing.
1116
00:53:01,000 --> 00:53:03,600
So every once in a while I'll go back and read that article
1117
00:53:03,600 --> 00:53:06,200
because I just I don't want to ever forget the headspace
1118
00:53:06,200 --> 00:53:11,400
I was in because it is really easy to forget about it because
1119
00:53:11,400 --> 00:53:14,800
I've lived so long as I do now which is like without tons
1120
00:53:14,800 --> 00:53:17,600
of notifications on my phone and like there'll be days
1121
00:53:17,600 --> 00:53:20,100
where I leave the house and I forget to bring my phone because
1122
00:53:20,100 --> 00:53:22,400
it's just not a thing in my life.
1123
00:53:22,400 --> 00:53:23,900
It's not like an important thing.
1124
00:53:23,900 --> 00:53:24,600
I don't have a YouTube.
1125
00:53:24,600 --> 00:53:25,900
I don't even have YouTube on my phone.
1126
00:53:25,900 --> 00:53:30,600
It's really just for texting and for checking maybe the YouTube
1127
00:53:30,600 --> 00:53:34,300
studio app which is the the app you use to just check all your
1128
00:53:34,300 --> 00:53:36,500
comments and stuff on YouTube.
1129
00:53:38,200 --> 00:53:42,100
So yeah, I you know the FOMO kind of gets you thinking maybe
1130
00:53:42,100 --> 00:53:43,100
I should go back to it.
1131
00:53:43,100 --> 00:53:46,700
But then I just always try to bring myself back to why I did
1132
00:53:46,700 --> 00:53:49,600
it in the first place and I think just long-term not even
1133
00:53:49,600 --> 00:53:50,600
about training anymore.
1134
00:53:50,600 --> 00:53:53,300
Like it like when I started it was because of training.
1135
00:53:53,300 --> 00:53:56,500
I was like I want a better headspace to do better in competitions.
1136
00:53:56,800 --> 00:53:57,400
That was it.
1137
00:53:57,700 --> 00:53:59,600
And today I think it's a lot more than that.
1138
00:53:59,600 --> 00:54:05,100
I think it's more about how I want my my my mind to be, you
1139
00:54:05,100 --> 00:54:05,900
know going forward.
1140
00:54:05,900 --> 00:54:09,000
I don't want to be cluttered with notifications and and thoughts
1141
00:54:09,000 --> 00:54:11,800
and I don't want to see everyone's lives, you know, it seems
1142
00:54:11,800 --> 00:54:15,700
a little bit cliche perhaps but you know, we weren't meant to
1143
00:54:15,700 --> 00:54:18,800
see all this stuff, you know, like, you know 20 years ago.
1144
00:54:19,100 --> 00:54:20,200
This wasn't here at all.
1145
00:54:20,500 --> 00:54:23,200
You know, we would have to go talk to people in person.
1146
00:54:23,200 --> 00:54:25,300
If we wanted to hear about their lives and I think that's just
1147
00:54:25,300 --> 00:54:30,000
a more high-quality way of interacting with people in your
1148
00:54:30,000 --> 00:54:33,600
life and it's something I try to straight stay true to as much
1149
00:54:33,600 --> 00:54:35,000
as possible and sure.
1150
00:54:35,000 --> 00:54:37,200
Maybe I don't talk to as many people as other people do.
1151
00:54:37,200 --> 00:54:39,800
I don't have as many friends or as many relationships.
1152
00:54:40,300 --> 00:54:44,300
But again, I think we weren't meant to have the huge network
1153
00:54:44,300 --> 00:54:47,200
of people in our lives as we do today.
1154
00:54:47,500 --> 00:54:50,800
So I try to stay pretty I try to stay close-knit and have just
1155
00:54:50,800 --> 00:54:54,200
the people I want to really stay my life in my life.
1156
00:54:54,300 --> 00:54:59,300
I will definitely link that blog post in the description so
1157
00:54:59,300 --> 00:55:01,800
people can take a look and the blog in general as well.
1158
00:55:02,800 --> 00:55:06,300
But yeah, you mentioned that you did I guess YouTube is kind
1159
00:55:06,300 --> 00:55:10,800
of social media and you sort of made exception for that even
1160
00:55:10,800 --> 00:55:14,000
though video making is like way more time-consuming.
1161
00:55:14,100 --> 00:55:14,700
Sure.
1162
00:55:15,100 --> 00:55:16,400
Like so much effort.
1163
00:55:17,500 --> 00:55:20,000
I guess why did you decide to make the exception for YouTube?
1164
00:55:20,000 --> 00:55:23,900
Yeah, so of course this this crossed my mind too, and it
1165
00:55:23,900 --> 00:55:26,200
actually wasn't me that started the YouTube channel is my
1166
00:55:26,200 --> 00:55:30,900
husband and he also wasn't completely sold on it at first.
1167
00:55:30,900 --> 00:55:32,300
It was to be honest.
1168
00:55:32,300 --> 00:55:33,900
It all goes back to my stepdad.
1169
00:55:33,900 --> 00:55:37,800
He was the one who really pushed us to do social to do YouTube
1170
00:55:39,000 --> 00:55:40,500
because again, it's hard to know.
1171
00:55:40,900 --> 00:55:41,300
I know.
1172
00:55:41,300 --> 00:55:45,800
Yeah, but yeah in Canadian climbing again, like we were very
1173
00:55:46,100 --> 00:55:46,900
poorly funded.
1174
00:55:46,900 --> 00:55:49,700
So, you know that goes down to athlete sponsorships as well.
1175
00:55:49,700 --> 00:55:51,800
Like it's not just that the national team doesn't pay us is
1176
00:55:51,800 --> 00:55:54,700
that the there's not as many people and companies out there
1177
00:55:54,700 --> 00:55:56,500
that are looking to support Canadian athletes.
1178
00:55:56,900 --> 00:56:00,300
So the dream of just being a professional athlete and having
1179
00:56:00,300 --> 00:56:04,500
that fund our entire livelihood is just not a thing in Canada
1180
00:56:04,500 --> 00:56:05,800
and we there has to be something else.
1181
00:56:05,800 --> 00:56:09,600
So either we get like a part-time job or we do something
1182
00:56:09,600 --> 00:56:13,200
online or something like YouTube and I think YouTube was the
1183
00:56:13,200 --> 00:56:18,200
best option because we just have we have somewhat I'd say
1184
00:56:18,200 --> 00:56:19,000
interesting lives.
1185
00:56:19,000 --> 00:56:20,200
You know, we're going to World Cups.
1186
00:56:20,600 --> 00:56:21,500
We're traveling around.
1187
00:56:21,500 --> 00:56:23,100
We're training full-time for climbing.
1188
00:56:23,300 --> 00:56:24,300
It's an interesting story.
1189
00:56:24,300 --> 00:56:24,900
We're married.
1190
00:56:24,900 --> 00:56:25,700
We're really young.
1191
00:56:26,300 --> 00:56:27,800
We're both on the national team.
1192
00:56:27,800 --> 00:56:29,400
We're both bouldering only athletes.
1193
00:56:29,400 --> 00:56:32,800
Like it was just a good kind of hook story that I think lended
1194
00:56:32,800 --> 00:56:34,200
itself very well to YouTube.
1195
00:56:34,600 --> 00:56:40,600
So my stepdad convinced my husband to start YouTube and at
1196
00:56:40,600 --> 00:56:43,800
first his plan was to record every single training session.
1197
00:56:43,800 --> 00:56:46,900
He does like just film it all and then kind of voice it over
1198
00:56:46,900 --> 00:56:50,500
kind of like a YouTube like like a video game streaming kind
1199
00:56:50,500 --> 00:56:53,000
of like Twitch but for climbing training.
1200
00:56:54,600 --> 00:56:55,800
So true to his word.
1201
00:56:55,800 --> 00:56:56,900
He did exactly that.
1202
00:56:56,900 --> 00:56:59,800
I think he spent like two months preparing for a North American
1203
00:56:59,800 --> 00:57:03,100
Cup and he filmed every single training session he did and
1204
00:57:03,100 --> 00:57:06,000
he talked about it and he posted it every single day.
1205
00:57:06,000 --> 00:57:10,700
We did daily videos back then and it was crazy and it was
1206
00:57:10,700 --> 00:57:12,800
really high quality because he had some really insightful
1207
00:57:12,800 --> 00:57:16,400
things to say about climbing and very specific kind of beta
1208
00:57:16,400 --> 00:57:21,100
advice and like very just like climbing tips and knowledge
1209
00:57:21,100 --> 00:57:23,000
that just really isn't out there on the internet.
1210
00:57:23,300 --> 00:57:25,600
And I think that really struck a chord with a lot of people
1211
00:57:26,100 --> 00:57:30,300
and he got some great feedback from it and he started kind
1212
00:57:30,300 --> 00:57:33,700
of developing a bit of community around his his journey
1213
00:57:33,700 --> 00:57:35,300
as a competition climber.
1214
00:57:35,900 --> 00:57:41,400
And so it reached a certain point where I was like at first
1215
00:57:41,400 --> 00:57:43,300
I didn't really want to do it because of the social media
1216
00:57:43,300 --> 00:57:43,800
element.
1217
00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:45,600
I was like, I don't want to see the comments.
1218
00:57:45,600 --> 00:57:49,500
I don't want to have to do have to think about filming myself.
1219
00:57:49,500 --> 00:57:52,200
Like I don't want to I just want to focus on training.
1220
00:57:52,700 --> 00:57:55,200
But then it got to a point where I was like, okay, like I
1221
00:57:55,200 --> 00:57:58,400
watched him do this for six months now and it doesn't look
1222
00:57:58,400 --> 00:58:01,100
that invasive and the comments you don't know who's making
1223
00:58:01,100 --> 00:58:01,300
them.
1224
00:58:01,300 --> 00:58:03,300
You're not watching other people on YouTube.
1225
00:58:03,300 --> 00:58:05,700
You're just watching YouTube like, you know, the experience
1226
00:58:05,700 --> 00:58:06,200
on YouTube.
1227
00:58:06,200 --> 00:58:08,600
It's not you're not seeing your friends everywhere because
1228
00:58:08,600 --> 00:58:10,500
not your friends don't have YouTube channels.
1229
00:58:10,500 --> 00:58:13,300
Generally you're seeing kind of strangers or you're watching
1230
00:58:13,300 --> 00:58:15,700
tutorial videos and all that sort of stuff.
1231
00:58:15,800 --> 00:58:20,500
So I realized that the I didn't think it would actually be
1232
00:58:20,500 --> 00:58:25,400
that harmful and to like true to my word like it really isn't
1233
00:58:26,400 --> 00:58:29,600
it's a lot more detached than you think it is sure you're
1234
00:58:29,600 --> 00:58:32,000
checking comments and maybe you're stressing a little bit
1235
00:58:32,000 --> 00:58:34,200
over how many views of videos going to get or something
1236
00:58:34,200 --> 00:58:37,900
like that, but it never goes down to like your core like
1237
00:58:37,900 --> 00:58:38,500
self-worth.
1238
00:58:38,500 --> 00:58:41,800
It doesn't go down to like I posted like a like a picture
1239
00:58:41,800 --> 00:58:45,000
and it only got five likes or 10 likes to people not like
1240
00:58:45,000 --> 00:58:45,200
me.
1241
00:58:45,200 --> 00:58:46,400
Like it's very personal.
1242
00:58:46,400 --> 00:58:50,800
I find on social media like Instagram or whatever but on
1243
00:58:50,800 --> 00:58:52,700
YouTube, you know, you put out a video and it's like it's
1244
00:58:52,700 --> 00:58:53,600
actually about the video.
1245
00:58:53,600 --> 00:58:54,400
It's not about you.
1246
00:58:54,400 --> 00:58:57,400
It's about how good was your video and what was your content
1247
00:58:57,400 --> 00:59:03,100
like so for that reason I really took to YouTube at first.
1248
00:59:03,100 --> 00:59:05,100
I was trying to maybe copy what he was doing.
1249
00:59:05,300 --> 00:59:08,200
But then over time I try to kind of developed my own little
1250
00:59:08,200 --> 00:59:12,400
niche within our Channel and now I do more educational style
1251
00:59:12,400 --> 00:59:16,100
kind of beginner intermediate focused just purely climbing
1252
00:59:16,100 --> 00:59:19,600
tips and technique kind of stuff and I think that does really
1253
00:59:19,600 --> 00:59:23,000
well in our Channel and my whole philosophy with the Channel
1254
00:59:23,000 --> 00:59:24,500
is that it isn't about me.
1255
00:59:24,500 --> 00:59:27,800
So I don't introduce myself typically in my videos.
1256
00:59:27,800 --> 00:59:29,800
I just get straight to the content.
1257
00:59:29,800 --> 00:59:32,100
I you know, there was one video that did really well.
1258
00:59:32,100 --> 00:59:35,600
It was just me going through almost every footwork kind of
1259
00:59:35,600 --> 00:59:37,000
technique I could think of.
1260
00:59:37,000 --> 00:59:38,300
So I took it.
1261
00:59:38,300 --> 00:59:41,000
I took a notebook because I'm a I like being analog.
1262
00:59:41,000 --> 00:59:44,300
So I took a notebook and I just wrote down every single footwork
1263
00:59:44,300 --> 00:59:48,800
thing I could think of like switching feet, you know, stemming
1264
00:59:48,800 --> 00:59:52,100
all that sort of stuff and then I made a video about it and
1265
00:59:52,100 --> 00:59:53,300
I didn't introduce myself.
1266
00:59:53,300 --> 00:59:55,500
It was just strike within 10 seconds.
1267
00:59:55,500 --> 00:59:58,700
We're already talking about footwork and it did really well
1268
00:59:58,700 --> 01:00:00,800
and I was able to stay really far away from it.
1269
01:00:00,800 --> 01:00:02,900
The comments were about the content not me.
1270
01:00:03,700 --> 01:00:06,300
Whereas Zach has a bit more personality in his because he's
1271
01:00:06,300 --> 01:00:07,200
talking about his day.
1272
01:00:07,200 --> 01:00:09,100
He's talking about how he feels on the wall.
1273
01:00:09,400 --> 01:00:12,500
And so comments are very like, you know, great job Zach.
1274
01:00:12,500 --> 01:00:15,500
Like you can do it all that sort of stuff or like asking him
1275
01:00:15,500 --> 01:00:16,700
questions about his life.
1276
01:00:17,000 --> 01:00:20,200
The questions on mine are about the content and I and I love it.
1277
01:00:21,900 --> 01:00:25,500
But yeah, it is it we're at the point now where it does feel
1278
01:00:25,500 --> 01:00:29,300
like a job like kind of a side thing and it's great because
1279
01:00:29,300 --> 01:00:32,700
it's we're starting to get income from it and we're starting
1280
01:00:32,700 --> 01:00:36,200
to fuel our pro climbing adventures.
1281
01:00:36,500 --> 01:00:39,000
You know, it's not what I thought of when I thought of being
1282
01:00:39,000 --> 01:00:40,000
a professional climber.
1283
01:00:40,000 --> 01:00:43,000
I thought I would be just climbing and I didn't have to worry
1284
01:00:43,000 --> 01:00:43,800
about anything else.
1285
01:00:44,100 --> 01:00:48,000
But you know, the realities of just life say that, you know,
1286
01:00:48,000 --> 01:00:50,500
there has to be that's just not how it works.
1287
01:00:50,900 --> 01:00:53,900
So I'm actually really happy on YouTube and I think this is
1288
01:00:53,900 --> 01:00:56,300
something that I'll be able to sustain like we will be able
1289
01:00:56,300 --> 01:00:59,500
to sustain like soon as we're done competing when our careers
1290
01:00:59,500 --> 01:01:02,700
over we just have this like waiting for us.
1291
01:01:02,700 --> 01:01:06,000
So yeah, it's been a really awesome journey and I would
1292
01:01:06,000 --> 01:01:10,600
definitely recommend YouTube like creating on YouTube to
1293
01:01:10,600 --> 01:01:11,100
everyone.
1294
01:01:11,100 --> 01:01:13,500
Like I think it's just a great way to give out more high
1295
01:01:13,500 --> 01:01:17,300
quality just like down to Earth better content.
1296
01:01:17,300 --> 01:01:21,000
I find yeah, that's a really interesting perspective on it
1297
01:01:21,000 --> 01:01:23,600
because I feel like you hear a lot of youtubers talk about
1298
01:01:23,600 --> 01:01:28,000
how emotionally invested they get in the numbers and the
1299
01:01:28,000 --> 01:01:32,300
comments and stuff like that and I definitely wouldn't say
1300
01:01:32,300 --> 01:01:35,500
that I'm not invested in that way.
1301
01:01:35,500 --> 01:01:38,100
So it's interesting to hear that it doesn't really affect
1302
01:01:38,100 --> 01:01:38,300
you.
1303
01:01:38,600 --> 01:01:40,900
Well, I'll say it used to affect me for sure.
1304
01:01:40,900 --> 01:01:44,300
Like when I didn't really know how YouTube worked because it
1305
01:01:44,300 --> 01:01:45,800
does it is a learning curve.
1306
01:01:45,800 --> 01:01:48,000
Like it's not just about making videos.
1307
01:01:48,000 --> 01:01:51,500
It's about optimizing the first 10 seconds and the thumbnail
1308
01:01:51,500 --> 01:01:52,300
and all this sort of stuff.
1309
01:01:52,300 --> 01:01:53,900
Like it's definitely a different ball game.
1310
01:01:54,300 --> 01:01:56,200
And yeah, at first when I didn't know what I was doing,
1311
01:01:56,200 --> 01:01:59,600
I thought I was putting that genius content like 24 7 and
1312
01:01:59,600 --> 01:02:02,600
then when it only had whatever amount of use I was like very
1313
01:02:02,600 --> 01:02:03,200
destroyed.
1314
01:02:03,500 --> 01:02:06,400
But then it only took me a few months to realize that it's
1315
01:02:06,800 --> 01:02:09,100
it's almost like competing, you know, you go to a comp and
1316
01:02:09,100 --> 01:02:12,300
you don't do well and you don't just take that as like I tried
1317
01:02:12,300 --> 01:02:14,700
my best and that's just it and like no you to go back to the
1318
01:02:14,700 --> 01:02:17,900
gym you try and train and you figure out a different approach.
1319
01:02:17,900 --> 01:02:20,400
So that's exactly what I did with YouTube.
1320
01:02:20,400 --> 01:02:23,700
I would just take a badly performing video and say, okay,
1321
01:02:23,700 --> 01:02:24,700
what didn't work?
1322
01:02:24,700 --> 01:02:26,100
What do I need to learn?
1323
01:02:26,100 --> 01:02:27,900
What is the next step?
1324
01:02:27,900 --> 01:02:28,900
What's the next video?
1325
01:02:29,200 --> 01:02:33,100
Okay, so getting into your personal life a little bit.
1326
01:02:33,800 --> 01:02:37,700
You mentioned that you got married super young and I think
1327
01:02:37,700 --> 01:02:40,600
some people in the discord are also familiar with that one
1328
01:02:40,600 --> 01:02:43,900
person said that it still feels illegal for anyone born after
1329
01:02:43,900 --> 01:02:47,300
the year 2000 to be married, which I totally agree with.
1330
01:02:48,300 --> 01:02:49,600
I mean, I'm not that old.
1331
01:02:49,600 --> 01:02:52,900
I'm just I'm not surrounded by many people who are married
1332
01:02:52,900 --> 01:02:55,300
and I was born before 2000.
1333
01:02:55,300 --> 01:03:00,900
So yeah, tell me about how your relationship started and I
1334
01:03:00,900 --> 01:03:03,600
guess why you decided to get married young.
1335
01:03:03,600 --> 01:03:04,100
Right.
1336
01:03:04,900 --> 01:03:05,300
Yeah.
1337
01:03:05,300 --> 01:03:09,100
So Zach and I Zach was always on the national team like, you
1338
01:03:09,100 --> 01:03:11,000
know, you're a youth climber you make the national team for
1339
01:03:11,000 --> 01:03:13,200
the first year and then you've got all your little youth
1340
01:03:13,200 --> 01:03:17,600
national teammates and he was one of them and he was a little
1341
01:03:17,600 --> 01:03:21,200
bit more I'd say like standoff ish than most people on the
1342
01:03:21,200 --> 01:03:27,200
youth team. He didn't really like just being around people
1343
01:03:27,200 --> 01:03:28,600
who's pretty competitive at the time.
1344
01:03:28,900 --> 01:03:29,800
He didn't like lead.
1345
01:03:29,800 --> 01:03:32,500
He was always bolder only like from the start, which I found
1346
01:03:32,500 --> 01:03:35,900
interesting, but we didn't really talk for many many years
1347
01:03:37,100 --> 01:03:41,100
until there was a Pan American Championship in 2018.
1348
01:03:41,400 --> 01:03:45,400
This is now three or four years after we had met for the
1349
01:03:45,400 --> 01:03:48,800
first time and that was when we first actually talked to
1350
01:03:48,800 --> 01:03:52,300
each other because there were only four athletes sent to
1351
01:03:52,300 --> 01:03:54,900
that event like only four people wanted to go to Ecuador
1352
01:03:54,900 --> 01:03:58,400
for that event and he and I were one of the word two of them.
1353
01:03:59,100 --> 01:04:02,400
So right when we first spoke and we first had a conversation
1354
01:04:02,400 --> 01:04:04,700
I was like, okay, he's really like nice.
1355
01:04:04,700 --> 01:04:05,800
He's just a nice person.
1356
01:04:05,800 --> 01:04:06,600
Like this is great.
1357
01:04:07,100 --> 01:04:13,300
But then it took us another I guess four years to actually
1358
01:04:13,400 --> 01:04:15,100
like become friends.
1359
01:04:15,300 --> 01:04:17,900
Like like I said, like it's hard on the national team to
1360
01:04:17,900 --> 01:04:20,600
be friends with each other because we're all competitive.
1361
01:04:20,600 --> 01:04:23,000
We're all living all over the place and it just doesn't
1362
01:04:23,000 --> 01:04:23,800
happen naturally.
1363
01:04:24,300 --> 01:04:29,800
And so there was a flight we so Zach and I think we were
1364
01:04:29,800 --> 01:04:32,000
really alike because we were the ones that went to the
1365
01:04:32,000 --> 01:04:33,200
events that no one else went to.
1366
01:04:33,700 --> 01:04:36,000
So we went to the Ecuador event.
1367
01:04:36,000 --> 01:04:38,400
We would always kind of see each other at events, but we
1368
01:04:38,600 --> 01:04:41,600
know we never happened to talk and then there was an event
1369
01:04:41,600 --> 01:04:46,200
in Albuquerque, New Mexico in 2021 and we both were two
1370
01:04:46,200 --> 01:04:49,600
of the only Canadians to go to that event again and I saw
1371
01:04:49,600 --> 01:04:52,500
him at the airport and I noticed he was like really early
1372
01:04:52,500 --> 01:04:53,200
for his flight.
1373
01:04:53,200 --> 01:04:54,300
Like it was like 6 a.m.
1374
01:04:54,300 --> 01:04:55,400
I had to get up at like 4 a.m.
1375
01:04:55,400 --> 01:04:58,000
for my flight and I got to the airport and I see him there
1376
01:04:58,000 --> 01:04:59,900
and he's like already at the gate.
1377
01:04:59,900 --> 01:05:01,100
I'm like, okay, that's kind of weird.
1378
01:05:01,300 --> 01:05:03,500
And then I got on my flight and I realized he's not getting
1379
01:05:03,500 --> 01:05:04,100
on the flight.
1380
01:05:04,100 --> 01:05:06,300
He's just sitting there still and his flight was actually
1381
01:05:06,300 --> 01:05:07,400
an hour later than mine.
1382
01:05:07,600 --> 01:05:10,900
So he got there earlier to get to a later flight and it was
1383
01:05:10,900 --> 01:05:13,000
just like he probably had to get up at like 3 in the morning
1384
01:05:13,000 --> 01:05:14,800
to like go to this flight and I thought it was crazy.
1385
01:05:14,800 --> 01:05:17,500
But then I happened to see him at my connecting flight.
1386
01:05:17,500 --> 01:05:22,300
We both connected in Denver and so I saw him sitting like
1387
01:05:22,300 --> 01:05:25,200
there and I went over and I basically just confronted him
1388
01:05:25,200 --> 01:05:27,300
and said, why were you so early to that flight?
1389
01:05:27,300 --> 01:05:28,200
That was ridiculous.
1390
01:05:28,200 --> 01:05:29,100
And how did you end up here?
1391
01:05:29,100 --> 01:05:32,300
Your flight was like later than mine and that was the day
1392
01:05:32,300 --> 01:05:33,600
I think we became friends.
1393
01:05:34,600 --> 01:05:35,400
I don't know.
1394
01:05:35,400 --> 01:05:38,100
I don't know why like it was just I just have a problem.
1395
01:05:38,100 --> 01:05:41,400
I like to be like exactly on time or like late for things.
1396
01:05:41,400 --> 01:05:46,500
He's like an hour early kind of person. His mom was in the
1397
01:05:46,500 --> 01:05:47,100
military.
1398
01:05:47,100 --> 01:05:51,700
So he's like born to be like really rigid about timing and
1399
01:05:51,700 --> 01:05:54,700
I just was not so I found that really fascinating to be honest
1400
01:05:55,100 --> 01:05:57,800
and yeah, so we became friends.
1401
01:05:57,800 --> 01:06:00,400
I think it like we were friends for like a year that time
1402
01:06:00,400 --> 01:06:01,900
and we would actually train together.
1403
01:06:01,900 --> 01:06:03,900
Like I thought it was the coolest thing to like train with
1404
01:06:03,900 --> 01:06:05,000
someone on the national team.
1405
01:06:05,300 --> 01:06:07,700
Like I hadn't even climbed with any like female national
1406
01:06:07,700 --> 01:06:08,400
team athletes.
1407
01:06:08,400 --> 01:06:11,300
He was like basically the first like national team person
1408
01:06:11,300 --> 01:06:14,000
I climbed with so I thought it was the coolest thing and then
1409
01:06:14,000 --> 01:06:18,200
he was super fun and nice and and then we just turned into
1410
01:06:18,200 --> 01:06:23,400
relationship and I think when we went to so we went to World
1411
01:06:23,400 --> 01:06:26,200
Cups together and we you know traveled Europe together and
1412
01:06:26,200 --> 01:06:29,800
it was just like the craziest like like almost like fairytale
1413
01:06:29,800 --> 01:06:30,300
kind of thing.
1414
01:06:30,300 --> 01:06:32,200
Like it seemed like the perfect relationship.
1415
01:06:32,200 --> 01:06:34,300
I was like it can't get any better than this.
1416
01:06:34,300 --> 01:06:37,700
Like this is he's like just he's perfect basically and I
1417
01:06:37,700 --> 01:06:42,200
was like if I really if that's really true then like seems
1418
01:06:42,200 --> 01:06:43,800
like marriage is like the next step, right?
1419
01:06:43,800 --> 01:06:48,000
So there was there was a day where I kind of just we were
1420
01:06:48,000 --> 01:06:50,400
just like lounging around sitting on the couch or whatever
1421
01:06:50,800 --> 01:06:51,800
and I turned to him.
1422
01:06:51,800 --> 01:06:54,200
I was like, do you think we should get married and he's
1423
01:06:54,200 --> 01:06:55,300
like, yeah, sure.
1424
01:06:55,300 --> 01:06:55,900
Why not?
1425
01:06:56,300 --> 01:06:58,300
And that was basically it.
1426
01:06:59,100 --> 01:07:03,200
It just yeah, it just seemed like too perfect to ignore and
1427
01:07:03,200 --> 01:07:06,100
if we really were like that literally can't get any better
1428
01:07:06,100 --> 01:07:08,700
than this we're like, okay, this is it then and might as
1429
01:07:08,700 --> 01:07:10,700
well tie a knot on it.
1430
01:07:10,700 --> 01:07:15,500
I guess so was that like the proposal or it was actually
1431
01:07:15,500 --> 01:07:20,700
we had planned to move to Germany actually a month later
1432
01:07:22,000 --> 01:07:26,700
just like as boyfriend girlfriend and so a couple weeks
1433
01:07:26,700 --> 01:07:28,100
before we were supposed to fly out.
1434
01:07:28,100 --> 01:07:33,000
We had the proposal conversation, I guess and we decided
1435
01:07:33,000 --> 01:07:35,700
to delay our flight by a couple weeks in order to get married
1436
01:07:35,700 --> 01:07:38,800
right before we left because it would either be it would
1437
01:07:38,800 --> 01:07:41,300
either get married before or after there was no getting
1438
01:07:41,300 --> 01:07:43,500
married abroad because that was just too common.
1439
01:07:43,500 --> 01:07:44,100
We looked into it.
1440
01:07:44,100 --> 01:07:45,500
We're like, that's way too complicated.
1441
01:07:46,000 --> 01:07:50,700
So we were engaged quote unquote for two weeks and then
1442
01:07:50,700 --> 01:07:53,100
we got married and then we've been married ever since.
1443
01:07:53,600 --> 01:07:56,200
Wow, that's a more wild story than I was expecting.
1444
01:07:56,800 --> 01:08:00,000
Yeah, trust me our family definitely thought it was a
1445
01:08:00,000 --> 01:08:00,900
bit wild as well.
1446
01:08:00,900 --> 01:08:04,200
If we I was 21 and he was 22 at the time and you know,
1447
01:08:04,200 --> 01:08:08,100
we're born after 2000 and we're from Ontario and now that
1448
01:08:08,100 --> 01:08:10,400
we've moved moved to Montreal.
1449
01:08:11,400 --> 01:08:14,100
It's even weirder because people from Montreal are very
1450
01:08:14,100 --> 01:08:16,400
I'd say hipster is what is the vibe.
1451
01:08:16,400 --> 01:08:20,200
I'm trying to I'm starting to get here and so very very
1452
01:08:20,200 --> 01:08:24,600
uncommon and so people actually assume we're siblings before
1453
01:08:24,600 --> 01:08:27,100
we are married because I did I took his last name.
1454
01:08:27,600 --> 01:08:32,000
So yeah, we're we're the Richardson's but like it's very
1455
01:08:32,000 --> 01:08:34,400
unclear if you don't like really pay attention is to
1456
01:08:34,400 --> 01:08:37,800
whether we're siblings or not and on YouTube it looks very
1457
01:08:37,800 --> 01:08:38,500
similar.
1458
01:08:38,500 --> 01:08:41,000
So I know like it could be step siblings.
1459
01:08:41,000 --> 01:08:44,800
It could be, you know, different parent whatever I was
1460
01:08:44,800 --> 01:08:45,800
like a charitable.
1461
01:08:45,800 --> 01:08:49,100
Yes, I guess there could be a situation but it was starting
1462
01:08:49,100 --> 01:08:53,400
to be a little bit weird on YouTube because like the whole
1463
01:08:53,400 --> 01:08:55,700
premise was that we're married pro climbers.
1464
01:08:55,700 --> 01:08:59,400
So it was kind of we didn't want to be known as as siblings.
1465
01:08:59,400 --> 01:09:01,600
So there was actually a couple weeks ago where we decided
1466
01:09:01,600 --> 01:09:05,800
to make a video called married pro climbers versus block shop
1467
01:09:05,800 --> 01:09:08,200
and we just did like a vlog saying hey, we just got to clear
1468
01:09:08,200 --> 01:09:08,700
the air here.
1469
01:09:08,700 --> 01:09:12,400
We're married actually not siblings and so many comments
1470
01:09:12,400 --> 01:09:15,600
said like from long-term subscribers saying I totally
1471
01:09:15,600 --> 01:09:18,600
thought you guys were siblings and we were just like that's
1472
01:09:18,600 --> 01:09:19,200
really weird.
1473
01:09:19,800 --> 01:09:24,300
Just saying I don't think I ever got that because I actually
1474
01:09:24,300 --> 01:09:28,100
I saw your guys's YouTube channel like close to when it
1475
01:09:28,100 --> 01:09:28,800
first started.
1476
01:09:28,800 --> 01:09:32,600
I think I was very involved in the climbing YouTube scene.
1477
01:09:32,600 --> 01:09:37,300
I don't think I ever got the idea that you guys were siblings.
1478
01:09:37,300 --> 01:09:38,800
I'm not sure where people got that.
1479
01:09:38,800 --> 01:09:40,800
I feel like I appreciate that.
1480
01:09:41,200 --> 01:09:45,200
Yeah, no, I was super confused too because we you know, we
1481
01:09:45,200 --> 01:09:46,200
were living together.
1482
01:09:46,200 --> 01:09:48,300
We're like, okay, we're going to move to Montreal now.
1483
01:09:48,300 --> 01:09:49,900
We're going to move to Frankfurt now.
1484
01:09:49,900 --> 01:09:53,300
He's talking about me in his videos and our profile picture
1485
01:09:53,300 --> 01:09:56,500
is together and we're talking as like we it's just like we
1486
01:09:56,500 --> 01:10:00,200
either are like the super like very very close family like
1487
01:10:00,300 --> 01:10:03,900
the point where we move across the world with each other or
1488
01:10:03,900 --> 01:10:07,100
married and I guess it was just like the weirdness of being
1489
01:10:07,100 --> 01:10:10,900
this young and married and taking the last name to you is
1490
01:10:10,900 --> 01:10:13,600
just like definitely not known these days.
1491
01:10:13,600 --> 01:10:16,700
So I guess I charitably I think that's where they were came
1492
01:10:16,700 --> 01:10:17,800
coming from personally.
1493
01:10:17,900 --> 01:10:20,300
I'm like you I thought it was very obvious that we were
1494
01:10:20,300 --> 01:10:20,800
married.
1495
01:10:21,100 --> 01:10:23,600
Yeah, I mean I swear it was like in a bio or something but
1496
01:10:23,600 --> 01:10:25,800
I guess not everyone reads that I was going to say.
1497
01:10:25,800 --> 01:10:28,900
Yeah, we definitely like we say it places we say all over
1498
01:10:28,900 --> 01:10:31,000
the place but apparently it's not known enough.
1499
01:10:31,900 --> 01:10:33,400
So we're clearing the air once again.
1500
01:10:34,100 --> 01:10:34,500
Yeah.
1501
01:10:34,900 --> 01:10:35,300
Okay.
1502
01:10:36,000 --> 01:10:38,700
Yeah, so something I've always been kind of curious about is
1503
01:10:38,700 --> 01:10:41,200
relationships between climbers in the circuit.
1504
01:10:42,100 --> 01:10:45,400
Like I mean people always say like oh don't shit where you
1505
01:10:45,400 --> 01:10:45,800
eat.
1506
01:10:46,300 --> 01:10:50,100
So have what's your take on relationships within the
1507
01:10:50,100 --> 01:10:53,400
climbing community and the in the World Cup circuit and you
1508
01:10:53,400 --> 01:10:55,800
mean like friendships or actual relationships.
1509
01:10:56,100 --> 01:10:59,500
I meant like actual relationships, but well, I mean
1510
01:10:59,500 --> 01:11:01,900
friendships are actual relationships, right?
1511
01:11:01,900 --> 01:11:04,600
But I mean, yeah also friendships because I'm sure
1512
01:11:04,600 --> 01:11:06,900
that gets hard as well with like competitiveness.
1513
01:11:07,400 --> 01:11:11,300
Yeah, I mean so Zach actually when we first started dating
1514
01:11:11,300 --> 01:11:13,900
he was on the national team and he was going to World Cups
1515
01:11:14,300 --> 01:11:17,200
but then there was a year where they took the quota down from
1516
01:11:17,200 --> 01:11:21,100
five per country to two and that's to kind of with an
1517
01:11:21,100 --> 01:11:23,700
asterisk. I guess if you if you have a number of athletes in
1518
01:11:23,700 --> 01:11:26,900
like the top 10 and top 40 you get extra quota for the country
1519
01:11:27,300 --> 01:11:28,000
at the time though.
1520
01:11:28,000 --> 01:11:29,900
We didn't have any men in the top 40.
1521
01:11:30,300 --> 01:11:33,600
So it was just to to each country and he was essentially
1522
01:11:33,600 --> 01:11:34,900
kind of like kicked off the team.
1523
01:11:35,800 --> 01:11:38,000
I think he was like ranked third or fourth like something
1524
01:11:38,000 --> 01:11:42,000
just under the quota and because people just want it like
1525
01:11:42,000 --> 01:11:44,200
people like Canadians always say yes to World Cups.
1526
01:11:44,200 --> 01:11:45,400
Like we always fill up our quota.
1527
01:11:45,400 --> 01:11:45,900
Typically.
1528
01:11:46,600 --> 01:11:50,300
We just didn't he just didn't have an opportunity for a year
1529
01:11:50,300 --> 01:11:54,400
and a bit so it was actually a little bit tough when I was
1530
01:11:54,400 --> 01:11:57,100
going to World Cups and he wasn't because it was the first
1531
01:11:57,100 --> 01:11:59,400
time in his career that he'd not been selected to a World
1532
01:11:59,400 --> 01:12:04,400
Cup and if it were in reverse and I was not going to World
1533
01:12:04,400 --> 01:12:08,300
Cups and he was I can tell you I would be upset.
1534
01:12:08,300 --> 01:12:09,200
You know, I wouldn't want to go.
1535
01:12:09,200 --> 01:12:10,700
I wouldn't really want to go with him.
1536
01:12:10,700 --> 01:12:14,000
I'd probably go and watch him or whatever and cheer him on
1537
01:12:14,000 --> 01:12:16,300
just to be supportive but in the back of my mind, I'm like
1538
01:12:16,300 --> 01:12:17,200
dreading being there.
1539
01:12:17,200 --> 01:12:18,700
I don't want to I don't want to be there.
1540
01:12:18,700 --> 01:12:22,600
But I you know, again, you have to ask him but I'm fairly
1541
01:12:22,600 --> 01:12:26,300
certain he is just such a good guy that he doesn't it doesn't
1542
01:12:26,300 --> 01:12:29,100
he's just supportive like like straight up.
1543
01:12:29,100 --> 01:12:34,500
But yeah, it can be tricky when there are some World Cups
1544
01:12:34,500 --> 01:12:37,500
that are really far away like China where it's just like not
1545
01:12:37,500 --> 01:12:41,300
feasible all to come with me and I have to just go by myself
1546
01:12:41,300 --> 01:12:45,700
and it's tough to just be kind of doing the long distance for
1547
01:12:45,700 --> 01:12:47,100
even just like a couple weeks.
1548
01:12:47,100 --> 01:12:49,500
It's just kind of tough when you're doing something so intense
1549
01:12:49,500 --> 01:12:52,500
like a World Cup where you really kind of need that that
1550
01:12:52,800 --> 01:12:56,500
like family support and you know, the team is great.
1551
01:12:56,500 --> 01:12:58,900
I've got lots of friends on the national team the Canadian
1552
01:12:58,900 --> 01:13:01,700
team, but we don't see each other very often.
1553
01:13:01,700 --> 01:13:04,300
So it does feel a little bit lonely being on the World Cup
1554
01:13:04,300 --> 01:13:09,100
circuit without a coach with just a few teammates and then
1555
01:13:09,400 --> 01:13:11,100
because he wasn't on the national team.
1556
01:13:11,100 --> 01:13:14,800
There was a point where he had to do qualifying events in
1557
01:13:14,800 --> 01:13:17,300
the States which are North American Cups that qualify you
1558
01:13:17,300 --> 01:13:19,900
for the national team in Canada and then I was doing World
1559
01:13:19,900 --> 01:13:20,800
Cups at the same time.
1560
01:13:20,800 --> 01:13:24,600
So last year we didn't see each other for a whole month and
1561
01:13:24,600 --> 01:13:27,800
I did two World Cups in that time and he did a couple events
1562
01:13:27,800 --> 01:13:31,700
and it was pretty crazy and not very enjoyable.
1563
01:13:31,700 --> 01:13:37,000
So I you know, just even a month of not seeing him was pretty
1564
01:13:37,000 --> 01:13:39,500
bad, but I know that you know, if you're in a relationship
1565
01:13:39,500 --> 01:13:42,600
with someone that is on a different national team than you
1566
01:13:42,600 --> 01:13:47,600
it's probably even worse and I commend those people for going
1567
01:13:47,600 --> 01:13:52,000
through that but I don't wish it on on myself.
1568
01:13:52,000 --> 01:13:55,600
Like it just it sounds like just difficult.
1569
01:13:55,600 --> 01:13:56,500
It just sounds difficult.
1570
01:13:56,500 --> 01:13:59,300
But you know, if there is someone that's just like really
1571
01:13:59,600 --> 01:14:02,000
like you really stick it out for this person then definitely
1572
01:14:02,000 --> 01:14:02,700
go for it.
1573
01:14:03,100 --> 01:14:06,700
But yeah, no not my cup of tea for sure.
1574
01:14:07,000 --> 01:14:10,200
Were you ever concerned about like, oh if we broke up we'll
1575
01:14:10,200 --> 01:14:14,200
see each other at the national team and like competitions.
1576
01:14:14,200 --> 01:14:17,600
Yeah, you know breaking up really has never crossed my mind.
1577
01:14:17,600 --> 01:14:20,200
You know, like we got married immediately because I was like
1578
01:14:20,200 --> 01:14:21,400
this is definitely it.
1579
01:14:22,600 --> 01:14:25,500
So yeah, I I wish I like that isn't I've actually never
1580
01:14:25,500 --> 01:14:26,400
thought about that before.
1581
01:14:26,600 --> 01:14:27,600
Okay, that's awesome.
1582
01:14:28,000 --> 01:14:31,700
Yeah, I I you know, I like to think that I would just be
1583
01:14:31,700 --> 01:14:34,400
I'm always just so focused on the climbing that I'm sure it
1584
01:14:34,400 --> 01:14:35,300
would be fine.
1585
01:14:36,900 --> 01:14:39,600
But yeah, no, this is the first time totally considering that
1586
01:14:39,600 --> 01:14:41,600
so it doesn't sound very nice.
1587
01:14:41,600 --> 01:14:42,300
Don't think about it.
1588
01:14:42,300 --> 01:14:43,400
You don't need to think about it.
1589
01:14:44,200 --> 01:14:44,600
Okay.
1590
01:14:45,200 --> 01:14:48,800
Have you ever like felt competitive against Zach?
1591
01:14:49,100 --> 01:14:51,100
I mean you said you're a very competitive person.
1592
01:14:51,900 --> 01:14:53,500
Yeah, no, absolutely.
1593
01:14:53,800 --> 01:14:58,100
He's won Nationals twice and so that's just like that's like
1594
01:14:58,100 --> 01:14:58,400
for me.
1595
01:14:58,400 --> 01:15:00,900
That's like enough said like it's like man.
1596
01:15:00,900 --> 01:15:04,800
I I've done a lot on the World Cup circuit, but I haven't
1597
01:15:04,800 --> 01:15:07,800
done what I really want to do which is win Nationals and he's
1598
01:15:07,800 --> 01:15:11,600
done it twice and he did it last year and last year I actually
1599
01:15:11,600 --> 01:15:15,400
came in third which was which was a little bit harder like I
1600
01:15:15,700 --> 01:15:17,900
I typically come in second to be honest and then I came in
1601
01:15:17,900 --> 01:15:19,900
third even and it's like, okay, I'm getting further away
1602
01:15:19,900 --> 01:15:22,700
from this and he came in first that year and it was like
1603
01:15:22,700 --> 01:15:25,200
really like we're really it's also added pressure because
1604
01:15:25,200 --> 01:15:26,900
we're trying to do like a double win like we've never
1605
01:15:26,900 --> 01:15:30,000
double won something and so we're like, okay, we're going
1606
01:15:30,000 --> 01:15:30,500
to Nationals.
1607
01:15:30,500 --> 01:15:31,300
We're both in finals.
1608
01:15:31,300 --> 01:15:32,700
We've both got really good odds.
1609
01:15:32,700 --> 01:15:35,100
This is it and then he wins and I don't win and then it's
1610
01:15:35,100 --> 01:15:39,200
just like that was really rough. I'd say it probably added
1611
01:15:39,200 --> 01:15:41,900
to the like the sting of that competition a little bit that
1612
01:15:41,900 --> 01:15:42,700
he did win it.
1613
01:15:44,100 --> 01:15:47,100
But at the same time, you know, he's in the men's side.
1614
01:15:47,100 --> 01:15:49,800
So it's like it's not we're not directly competing against
1615
01:15:49,800 --> 01:15:50,300
each other ever.
1616
01:15:50,300 --> 01:15:53,200
So it's not that bad that said though.
1617
01:15:53,300 --> 01:15:57,000
I do train with him from time to time and he is a lot stronger
1618
01:15:57,000 --> 01:16:00,600
than me and not maybe not even just stronger but just like
1619
01:16:00,600 --> 01:16:03,600
he's just really good at rock climbing and sure.
1620
01:16:03,600 --> 01:16:07,000
I'm better at him than a few things like I'm probably a
1621
01:16:07,000 --> 01:16:08,100
little better at slab.
1622
01:16:08,800 --> 01:16:12,600
There's a couple technical things like here and there but
1623
01:16:12,600 --> 01:16:15,400
as a whole it's hard to train with him because he is he is
1624
01:16:15,400 --> 01:16:17,600
quite a bit better than me probably like a grade or two
1625
01:16:17,600 --> 01:16:21,300
higher. So I am constantly chasing him.
1626
01:16:21,300 --> 01:16:24,500
I'm constantly comparing myself against him when I really
1627
01:16:24,500 --> 01:16:28,700
shouldn't be and I should kind of like just take it as like
1628
01:16:28,700 --> 01:16:29,700
this really good climber.
1629
01:16:29,700 --> 01:16:32,400
I have the opportunity to climb with and just learn from him
1630
01:16:32,400 --> 01:16:36,400
and watch him and just be all that but I I'm still working
1631
01:16:36,400 --> 01:16:40,000
on letting go of that a little bit and it's it's difficult.
1632
01:16:40,000 --> 01:16:43,500
It's because we are just so we're doing the same thing.
1633
01:16:43,500 --> 01:16:46,500
We're going for the same goals and we're both trying to be
1634
01:16:46,500 --> 01:16:48,900
really good at competition climbing and he's just a little
1635
01:16:48,900 --> 01:16:49,900
bit better at the thing.
1636
01:16:49,900 --> 01:16:54,100
I'm really trying hard to be really good at and yeah, so
1637
01:16:54,100 --> 01:16:56,400
it's I I'm getting better.
1638
01:16:56,400 --> 01:16:58,800
I'd say like a year ago was probably way worse than it is
1639
01:16:58,800 --> 01:17:01,700
today, but it's nowhere near how I want it to be like I'd
1640
01:17:01,700 --> 01:17:05,000
love to just walk into the gym and have like absolutely no
1641
01:17:05,000 --> 01:17:06,500
ego when it comes to climbing with him.
1642
01:17:06,500 --> 01:17:10,900
But yeah, he's just sending way too many boulders like it's
1643
01:17:10,900 --> 01:17:12,200
like I can't keep up with it.
1644
01:17:12,200 --> 01:17:17,100
I mean at least with general climbing you can just justify
1645
01:17:17,100 --> 01:17:18,800
it as like oh, he's a lot stronger.
1646
01:17:18,800 --> 01:17:22,300
So it's a bit different between like men and women.
1647
01:17:22,300 --> 01:17:27,200
But yeah, how do you manage those feelings like when like
1648
01:17:27,200 --> 01:17:28,300
what happened at Nationals?
1649
01:17:28,300 --> 01:17:33,000
It's honestly Nationals was the first time it like the first
1650
01:17:33,000 --> 01:17:35,700
most recent competition that really hit me poorly.
1651
01:17:35,700 --> 01:17:39,100
I'm typically pretty level-headed when it comes to competition
1652
01:17:39,100 --> 01:17:39,600
results.
1653
01:17:39,600 --> 01:17:43,900
But like I said Nationals is just really it's about it's not
1654
01:17:43,900 --> 01:17:46,800
even about qualifying for the national team anymore.
1655
01:17:46,800 --> 01:17:50,700
These days with national team qualifications for Canada, you
1656
01:17:50,700 --> 01:17:54,500
actually can qualify via World Cups or North American Cups
1657
01:17:54,500 --> 01:17:56,900
and those are worth a little bit more points than a national
1658
01:17:56,900 --> 01:17:57,200
would be.
1659
01:17:57,200 --> 01:17:59,900
So there's actually nothing really on the line when it comes
1660
01:17:59,900 --> 01:18:04,100
to Nationals except for the glory I'd say so for me to
1661
01:18:04,100 --> 01:18:07,100
enter Nationals, you know, I'm looking to win it and to not
1662
01:18:07,100 --> 01:18:11,200
win it is like just I what did I even do like I didn't get
1663
01:18:11,200 --> 01:18:11,700
any points.
1664
01:18:11,700 --> 01:18:12,300
I did nothing.
1665
01:18:12,300 --> 01:18:14,600
I just wasted a bunch of skin is basically what happened.
1666
01:18:14,600 --> 01:18:18,700
So yeah, when when Zach's winning it sure.
1667
01:18:18,700 --> 01:18:21,700
I'm happy for him for sure.
1668
01:18:21,700 --> 01:18:25,200
Like I like I really want to see him succeed at the time.
1669
01:18:25,200 --> 01:18:26,700
He hadn't even qualified yet.
1670
01:18:26,700 --> 01:18:29,400
Like hadn't been qualified for World Cups any for a while.
1671
01:18:29,400 --> 01:18:31,800
So I'm definitely rooting for him to go to World Cups.
1672
01:18:31,800 --> 01:18:34,200
That's absolutely I would never want him to not make the team.
1673
01:18:34,200 --> 01:18:35,500
That's just that's terrible.
1674
01:18:35,500 --> 01:18:39,600
But yeah Nationals honestly is just a different story than
1675
01:18:39,600 --> 01:18:40,000
everything.
1676
01:18:40,000 --> 01:18:43,100
Like I feel like I'm super supportive and it's not like
1677
01:18:43,100 --> 01:18:44,300
I'm not supportive of Nationals.
1678
01:18:44,300 --> 01:18:48,600
It's just like it's Nationals is like it's like about me.
1679
01:18:48,600 --> 01:18:51,700
I guess like it's just like I'm really concerned about myself
1680
01:18:51,700 --> 01:18:53,100
when it comes to Nationals because I'm really trying to
1681
01:18:53,100 --> 01:18:56,600
prove something to myself and the the kind of thing that
1682
01:18:56,600 --> 01:18:59,700
kind of stuff that's going on around me like like Zach Zach's
1683
01:18:59,700 --> 01:19:04,400
performance at Nationals is just like it doesn't really factor
1684
01:19:04,400 --> 01:19:09,800
in as much and it's hard for me to to see him achieve what
1685
01:19:09,800 --> 01:19:11,400
I've always wanted to achieve.
1686
01:19:11,800 --> 01:19:14,300
But then at the same time he's kind of seeing me achieve what
1687
01:19:14,300 --> 01:19:15,300
he wants to achieve.
1688
01:19:15,300 --> 01:19:17,500
So it's like he seems to be dealing with it.
1689
01:19:17,500 --> 01:19:20,600
Well, whereas I'm like just really focused on like one
1690
01:19:20,600 --> 01:19:23,600
specific placement at one comp and it's like super stressful.
1691
01:19:23,600 --> 01:19:28,200
So Nationals aside I'd say I'm I'm very supportive of his
1692
01:19:28,200 --> 01:19:33,000
career and his successes are my successes and I think we we
1693
01:19:33,000 --> 01:19:35,400
both know what we're like, we both know how much we're putting
1694
01:19:35,400 --> 01:19:39,000
into this kind of the training and all that but Nationals is
1695
01:19:39,000 --> 01:19:41,200
just is a whole nother thing.
1696
01:19:41,500 --> 01:19:45,600
Well, geez I seven years it is it is hard to deal with.
1697
01:19:46,100 --> 01:19:46,900
It's too much.
1698
01:19:46,900 --> 01:19:47,700
It's too many.
1699
01:19:48,700 --> 01:19:50,800
Yeah, I mean I love Atlanta too.
1700
01:19:50,800 --> 01:19:54,500
So it's it's hard but yeah, it would be great to see you break
1701
01:19:54,500 --> 01:19:55,200
that streak.
1702
01:19:55,200 --> 01:19:57,500
It sounds like it surely weighs on you.
1703
01:19:57,900 --> 01:19:59,100
Yeah, it's funny though.
1704
01:19:59,100 --> 01:20:02,800
Like it seems like people don't actually know like I obviously
1705
01:20:02,800 --> 01:20:05,600
know my placements at all the past seven Nationals, but who
1706
01:20:05,600 --> 01:20:08,900
else is actually like knows the stats and knows exactly how
1707
01:20:08,900 --> 01:20:12,600
many Nationals I've lost right like I was talking to a setter
1708
01:20:12,600 --> 01:20:15,600
at Beta Block the other day and actually no he was talking
1709
01:20:15,600 --> 01:20:17,500
to someone else and then that girl told me what they were
1710
01:20:17,500 --> 01:20:20,200
talking about and he said, oh yeah, it's so nice that Maddie
1711
01:20:20,200 --> 01:20:22,100
shows up to Nationals every year and like and she's always
1712
01:20:22,100 --> 01:20:25,600
winning and then my friend because she knows my you know,
1713
01:20:25,600 --> 01:20:28,700
I've been like venting about Nationals for however long.
1714
01:20:28,900 --> 01:20:31,000
She's like, oh well like you know Maddie's never actually
1715
01:20:31,000 --> 01:20:31,400
won.
1716
01:20:31,400 --> 01:20:33,900
He actually didn't know that he actually like didn't assume
1717
01:20:33,900 --> 01:20:37,300
that and I think that conversation really I think about
1718
01:20:37,300 --> 01:20:38,200
it from time to time.
1719
01:20:38,500 --> 01:20:40,400
She told me about this like a month ago or maybe two months
1720
01:20:40,400 --> 01:20:43,000
ago and I think about it a lot because it makes me feel a lot
1721
01:20:43,000 --> 01:20:45,900
better because it's like I do feel like I'm almost like
1722
01:20:45,900 --> 01:20:50,400
failing publicly like I'm I'm like not I'm losing Nationals
1723
01:20:50,400 --> 01:20:53,700
in front of everyone in front of the country when in fact,
1724
01:20:53,700 --> 01:20:58,000
you know making the podium is not a bad result like that is
1725
01:20:58,100 --> 01:21:01,900
very hard to achieve in and of itself and I think I I really
1726
01:21:01,900 --> 01:21:03,200
need to step back and realize.
1727
01:21:03,200 --> 01:21:03,800
Okay.
1728
01:21:04,100 --> 01:21:06,800
I'm I'm on the podium every year like come on like this is
1729
01:21:06,800 --> 01:21:10,900
not I'm not failing at Nationals every year and it does
1730
01:21:10,900 --> 01:21:14,600
still look like success because that is success like there's
1731
01:21:14,600 --> 01:21:17,300
a reason for second and third are all up on a little podium.
1732
01:21:17,300 --> 01:21:19,300
You know, it's like it's these are all great results.
1733
01:21:19,500 --> 01:21:22,800
Yeah, I mean I was I was going to say like it's not really
1734
01:21:22,800 --> 01:21:27,800
losing to get on the podium like I'm pretty sure as a win.
1735
01:21:28,300 --> 01:21:31,700
Yeah, so yeah, I yeah, it's definitely better.
1736
01:21:31,800 --> 01:21:34,000
He but the only said this I wish he said this to me like
1737
01:21:34,100 --> 01:21:36,700
four years ago, you know, and then I could really take the
1738
01:21:36,700 --> 01:21:39,700
the stress off of it and realize that I'm doing great and
1739
01:21:39,700 --> 01:21:41,200
I just need to like keep doing me.
1740
01:21:41,200 --> 01:21:43,900
But yeah, it's it's it's interesting for sure.
1741
01:21:44,300 --> 01:21:48,000
Yeah, I mean, I definitely get like the competitive vibe.
1742
01:21:49,000 --> 01:21:52,100
Does does a lot of know that you kind of have this like
1743
01:21:52,900 --> 01:21:57,200
mortal enemy type going on, you know, she definitely does.
1744
01:21:57,300 --> 01:22:03,600
I yeah, so we actually we never really spoke like friend
1745
01:22:03,600 --> 01:22:06,900
to friend like personal kind of her entire career.
1746
01:22:07,200 --> 01:22:09,800
I was always looking up to her and then one day I started
1747
01:22:09,800 --> 01:22:14,000
performing well in World Cups and then all of a sudden
1748
01:22:14,000 --> 01:22:16,600
it was like kind of a peer-to-peer relationship that my
1749
01:22:16,600 --> 01:22:19,400
at least from my perspective it kind of turned into and
1750
01:22:19,400 --> 01:22:22,000
just the whole while we just never really connected and
1751
01:22:22,000 --> 01:22:24,400
I think it's because like I am very competitive.
1752
01:22:24,400 --> 01:22:29,000
So I was never looking to like make friends I guess and
1753
01:22:29,000 --> 01:22:31,500
it was always about just like, you know, she's someone to
1754
01:22:31,500 --> 01:22:35,000
look up to and to like strive to be and you know, I always
1755
01:22:35,000 --> 01:22:36,400
had the most respect for her.
1756
01:22:36,400 --> 01:22:39,800
And I never, you know, I don't think she ever knew that
1757
01:22:39,800 --> 01:22:42,900
maybe or maybe I never said it and maybe didn't come across
1758
01:22:42,900 --> 01:22:46,000
and just the way I present myself, you know, I'm very I
1759
01:22:46,000 --> 01:22:48,700
don't smile when I compete, you know, I'm like very focused
1760
01:22:48,900 --> 01:22:50,400
and that's just how I am.
1761
01:22:50,400 --> 01:22:53,000
I I wish I was one of the people like Elena that just
1762
01:22:53,000 --> 01:22:55,400
like smiles all the time and is like super psyched to
1763
01:22:55,400 --> 01:22:58,000
stand the boulder but in my mind, you know sending one
1764
01:22:58,000 --> 01:22:59,100
boulder doesn't mean you win.
1765
01:22:59,100 --> 01:23:01,900
So I'm like, I'm not going to celebrate yet, you know,
1766
01:23:01,900 --> 01:23:05,100
but recently actually she spent some time in Montreal.
1767
01:23:05,100 --> 01:23:07,700
Like I randomly showed up to the gym to climb with Babette
1768
01:23:07,700 --> 01:23:10,000
one of the other national team members and she was just
1769
01:23:10,000 --> 01:23:13,300
there and we ended up spending the net we climbed together
1770
01:23:13,300 --> 01:23:15,500
that day and then the next day and this is the first time
1771
01:23:15,500 --> 01:23:18,200
we'd ever climbed together and this was right before her
1772
01:23:18,200 --> 01:23:21,300
final IFC event, which was a little bit unfortunate.
1773
01:23:21,300 --> 01:23:23,900
Like I wish this kind of happened maybe three years ago.
1774
01:23:25,400 --> 01:23:27,700
But we finally I think we we talked about it a little bit
1775
01:23:27,700 --> 01:23:30,500
before the event and I think it was like the first time
1776
01:23:30,500 --> 01:23:33,900
we finally I think we we talked a little bit more and I
1777
01:23:33,900 --> 01:23:36,800
feel a lot better about our relationship and I think the
1778
01:23:36,800 --> 01:23:39,000
problem was definitely just communication.
1779
01:23:39,000 --> 01:23:42,100
Like we just never really clicked and we never tried to
1780
01:23:42,400 --> 01:23:47,000
be friends or or you know, just be anything close to just
1781
01:23:47,000 --> 01:23:47,700
like chummy.
1782
01:23:48,600 --> 01:23:51,000
We were just kind of on the same team and she does her
1783
01:23:51,000 --> 01:23:53,800
thing and she has her friends and I've got mine but we
1784
01:23:53,800 --> 01:23:58,100
finally connected and it was really nice and I told her
1785
01:23:58,100 --> 01:24:01,000
like I remember I hugged her goodbye because I probably
1786
01:24:01,000 --> 01:24:02,500
wouldn't see her for a while because she was about to
1787
01:24:02,500 --> 01:24:06,700
retire and I was like I wish I said to her I'm like I wish
1788
01:24:06,700 --> 01:24:09,400
we did this three years ago, but I'm glad we had the
1789
01:24:09,400 --> 01:24:12,000
chance to like hang out finally and she was like coaching
1790
01:24:12,000 --> 01:24:14,300
me through a boulder and like it was all good.
1791
01:24:14,900 --> 01:24:17,300
But yeah, it was it was pretty tense for a few years
1792
01:24:17,300 --> 01:24:21,600
there and there was nothing there's never like we never
1793
01:24:21,600 --> 01:24:24,800
said anything to each other or did anything like bean.
1794
01:24:24,800 --> 01:24:29,000
It was just kind of like a vibe and so I'm really happy
1795
01:24:29,000 --> 01:24:31,000
with the way well we left it off at least.
1796
01:24:31,200 --> 01:24:31,700
Awesome.
1797
01:24:31,700 --> 01:24:32,800
Well, that's really great to hear.
1798
01:24:34,300 --> 01:24:38,700
Yeah, so I think that is a good place to end those we
1799
01:24:38,700 --> 01:24:43,000
can get into a couple of the discord questions and then
1800
01:24:43,000 --> 01:24:45,700
I think that'll be a good place to end it.
1801
01:24:45,700 --> 01:24:51,000
So the first discord question, what do you think about
1802
01:24:51,000 --> 01:24:54,000
the current field of Canadian comp climbing women compared
1803
01:24:54,000 --> 01:24:57,000
to other nations that you could train with?
1804
01:24:57,300 --> 01:25:00,500
Yeah, I mean I don't like we're super strong.
1805
01:25:00,500 --> 01:25:01,400
We are strong.
1806
01:25:02,900 --> 01:25:05,800
I love compete like I love climbing with the Canadian
1807
01:25:05,800 --> 01:25:06,100
women.
1808
01:25:06,100 --> 01:25:10,200
They really push me and it might not look like they are
1809
01:25:10,200 --> 01:25:12,700
neck-and-neck with me if you look at World Cup results,
1810
01:25:13,000 --> 01:25:17,200
but they absolutely are and I think World Cups are just
1811
01:25:17,200 --> 01:25:20,600
very difficult and I think mentally above all else.
1812
01:25:20,600 --> 01:25:24,200
They are just mentally like hard to compete at your absolute
1813
01:25:24,200 --> 01:25:27,800
best dad and I think that's the main separator between me
1814
01:25:27,800 --> 01:25:31,200
and the Canadian female team is like I just have learned
1815
01:25:31,200 --> 01:25:35,600
how to be confident and calm at World Cups and it is I
1816
01:25:35,600 --> 01:25:39,300
almost found it by accident and I can't really explain why
1817
01:25:39,300 --> 01:25:42,500
and why I feel like more at ease at World Cups, but I feel
1818
01:25:42,500 --> 01:25:45,200
like I'm able to perform like at my peak at these events
1819
01:25:45,200 --> 01:25:49,300
and they don't quite have that mindset but the field I think
1820
01:25:49,300 --> 01:25:51,900
we've got a great team that we have going to World Cups
1821
01:25:51,900 --> 01:25:55,800
and it's just a matter of like when they're able to like
1822
01:25:55,800 --> 01:25:59,700
prove to themselves that they can compete and do as well
1823
01:25:59,700 --> 01:26:04,000
as I am doing and not to say that I'm like a perfect World
1824
01:26:04,000 --> 01:26:07,900
Cup climber, but we definitely are all very very good at
1825
01:26:07,900 --> 01:26:08,200
climbing.
1826
01:26:08,200 --> 01:26:10,500
It's honestly it's part of the reason I haven't won nationals
1827
01:26:10,500 --> 01:26:15,800
like it is actually a difficult field and I guess other
1828
01:26:15,800 --> 01:26:16,400
national teams.
1829
01:26:16,400 --> 01:26:20,200
It's hard to say I think it like from the outside team
1830
01:26:20,200 --> 01:26:22,800
Germany, for example, looks like they've got a really great
1831
01:26:22,800 --> 01:26:27,000
group of girls that are just crushing it and same with
1832
01:26:27,000 --> 01:26:29,700
you know, Japan like like most countries it looks like
1833
01:26:29,700 --> 01:26:32,200
they've got a couple people in Canada.
1834
01:26:32,200 --> 01:26:35,500
It's typically always been just like one outlier will like
1835
01:26:35,800 --> 01:26:38,500
like make it through like we've had Sean was the outlier
1836
01:26:38,500 --> 01:26:41,400
in the men's and we had Atlanta for a few years and then
1837
01:26:41,400 --> 01:26:43,500
now we've got Oscar doing really well on the men's side
1838
01:26:43,500 --> 01:26:45,900
and then we've got me doing so it's like we it doesn't
1839
01:26:45,900 --> 01:26:49,100
look like we've got like a good strong like base of teams
1840
01:26:50,000 --> 01:26:53,400
behind us, but I think we really do and it's just a matter
1841
01:26:53,400 --> 01:26:55,200
of like us not training together.
1842
01:26:55,200 --> 01:26:58,600
I think if if they if we all train together more and they
1843
01:26:58,600 --> 01:27:01,600
saw like their level is like the same as my level.
1844
01:27:01,800 --> 01:27:04,700
I think that would give a lot of confidence and I think other
1845
01:27:04,700 --> 01:27:07,300
national teams probably have that every day they see each
1846
01:27:07,300 --> 01:27:10,100
other and then they see one person going and doing whatever
1847
01:27:10,100 --> 01:27:13,200
at the World Cup and they're like, okay, I just was doing
1848
01:27:13,200 --> 01:27:14,600
way better at her in that training session.
1849
01:27:14,600 --> 01:27:16,700
Of course I can go to the World Cup and do the same as
1850
01:27:16,700 --> 01:27:17,400
she's doing.
1851
01:27:17,800 --> 01:27:20,000
I was I was assumed that's that's part of the mindset at
1852
01:27:20,000 --> 01:27:21,700
least. Yeah, that definitely makes sense.
1853
01:27:21,700 --> 01:27:26,000
I think like competition just breeds greatness in general
1854
01:27:26,600 --> 01:27:29,700
that also kind of touches on like the next discord question.
1855
01:27:29,700 --> 01:27:33,600
So let me know if you have like more to expand on this one
1856
01:27:33,600 --> 01:27:36,800
says in your latest video.
1857
01:27:37,100 --> 01:27:39,700
I think this was maybe like a couple weeks ago though.
1858
01:27:40,600 --> 01:27:43,200
Zach mentions that you mostly climb alone.
1859
01:27:43,200 --> 01:27:46,200
Would there be a benefit to making Team Canada a bit more
1860
01:27:46,200 --> 01:27:49,100
of an institution with dedicated team training programs
1861
01:27:49,100 --> 01:27:50,300
and infrastructures?
1862
01:27:50,900 --> 01:27:53,300
Yeah, I mean that would be the dream with a little bit of
1863
01:27:53,300 --> 01:27:54,400
funding for sure.
1864
01:27:55,400 --> 01:27:58,700
We did actually establish a national training center in
1865
01:27:59,300 --> 01:28:04,100
the Richmond Oval in Vancouver a couple years ago, but we
1866
01:28:04,100 --> 01:28:06,300
kind of just said that it was a national training center
1867
01:28:06,300 --> 01:28:07,900
and then we didn't really do anything about it.
1868
01:28:08,300 --> 01:28:10,600
I think everyone in the national team probably has like
1869
01:28:10,600 --> 01:28:14,600
like entrance to that gym, but it's not really a good
1870
01:28:14,600 --> 01:28:15,300
bouldering gym.
1871
01:28:15,300 --> 01:28:16,700
I'd say it's a great lead gym.
1872
01:28:16,700 --> 01:28:19,000
It's probably the best lead gym in the country, but the
1873
01:28:19,000 --> 01:28:20,800
bouldering is not really where it needs to be.
1874
01:28:23,800 --> 01:28:28,100
So yeah, that would be nice, but we are such a big country.
1875
01:28:28,100 --> 01:28:30,800
So you're asking you'd have to move.
1876
01:28:30,800 --> 01:28:34,800
We would have to move to that location and without funding,
1877
01:28:34,800 --> 01:28:36,800
you know, it's just really hard to justify something like
1878
01:28:36,800 --> 01:28:39,500
that to like uproot your life to just go be with other national
1879
01:28:39,500 --> 01:28:43,200
team athletes when you know down to its core.
1880
01:28:43,200 --> 01:28:46,000
We don't even have like a really good national program.
1881
01:28:46,000 --> 01:28:47,800
Like we don't have training camps.
1882
01:28:47,800 --> 01:28:50,600
We don't have a coach like it's like a lot of stars need
1883
01:28:50,600 --> 01:28:51,800
to align for this to happen.
1884
01:28:51,800 --> 01:28:57,300
But I think it is the absolute next best step for Canada in
1885
01:28:57,300 --> 01:28:59,900
terms of like upping the level of our national team.
1886
01:28:59,900 --> 01:29:04,400
I think, you know funding aside, you know organization aside
1887
01:29:04,400 --> 01:29:08,600
like when we are talking about like how do we improve the
1888
01:29:08,600 --> 01:29:11,000
national team? I think that's absolutely what needs to happen
1889
01:29:11,000 --> 01:29:14,100
and we're almost starting to do it organically in Montreal.
1890
01:29:14,100 --> 01:29:18,100
We're missing a few Ontario people and a couple BC people,
1891
01:29:18,100 --> 01:29:21,300
but for the most part, we've got a good chunk of the national
1892
01:29:21,300 --> 01:29:22,300
team here in Montreal.
1893
01:29:22,300 --> 01:29:26,400
So it would be great like very cost-effective if we just kind
1894
01:29:26,400 --> 01:29:30,200
of if CEC just said, all right Montreal is it, you know, try
1895
01:29:30,200 --> 01:29:31,500
to be here as much as possible.
1896
01:29:31,500 --> 01:29:34,200
And you know, if in the future we're like, okay, we can give
1897
01:29:34,200 --> 01:29:35,500
you housing when you're here.
1898
01:29:35,500 --> 01:29:39,100
That would be amazing and with the array of climbing gyms and
1899
01:29:39,100 --> 01:29:40,400
just climbing together all the time.
1900
01:29:40,400 --> 01:29:44,200
I think the confidence will go up for the whole team and it
1901
01:29:44,200 --> 01:29:46,400
would just be like amazing.
1902
01:29:46,400 --> 01:29:49,000
I think we'd see huge results on the World Cup circuit, but
1903
01:29:49,000 --> 01:29:52,400
we're it seems like we're a few years away from that for sure.
1904
01:29:52,400 --> 01:29:55,000
Yeah, it seems like getting all the climbers together would
1905
01:29:55,000 --> 01:29:56,900
probably help a whole bunch.
1906
01:29:56,900 --> 01:30:00,300
I know like for me at least when I'm climbing with people
1907
01:30:00,300 --> 01:30:04,400
who climb harder than me or like just as hard as me it feels
1908
01:30:04,400 --> 01:30:09,700
me a lot more than if I'm just by myself or if I'm already
1909
01:30:09,700 --> 01:30:13,400
like doing the best because I'm just like, I don't know.
1910
01:30:13,400 --> 01:30:15,600
Maybe I have no like internal motivation.
1911
01:30:16,300 --> 01:30:17,200
Okay, cool.
1912
01:30:17,700 --> 01:30:19,900
I think that's all the questions I had.
1913
01:30:20,000 --> 01:30:23,000
Is there any like last words that you want to get out there?
1914
01:30:23,300 --> 01:30:25,900
Like drama aside and like funding aside.
1915
01:30:25,900 --> 01:30:28,500
I love being in Canada.
1916
01:30:28,500 --> 01:30:30,700
You know, I like I like representing Canada.
1917
01:30:30,700 --> 01:30:35,600
I don't want you to think that like I hate the CEC or whatever
1918
01:30:35,600 --> 01:30:37,400
else or I don't like Atlanta.
1919
01:30:37,400 --> 01:30:40,000
Like I enjoy I enjoy everything.
1920
01:30:40,000 --> 01:30:42,300
I love that Montreal's got a great scene.
1921
01:30:43,100 --> 01:30:47,100
I'm only here to kind of prop up Canada and like push us to
1922
01:30:47,100 --> 01:30:52,300
get even further and I think you know, I think just leading
1923
01:30:52,300 --> 01:30:55,600
by example and and just being more involved in the community
1924
01:30:55,600 --> 01:30:58,800
and like really getting the athletes together and like proving
1925
01:30:58,800 --> 01:31:02,100
that we are all really a solid country for climbing and we
1926
01:31:02,100 --> 01:31:04,900
can really push this and achieve our dreams.
1927
01:31:04,900 --> 01:31:07,300
I think that's the way to look at it.
1928
01:31:07,600 --> 01:31:08,200
Awesome.
1929
01:31:08,300 --> 01:31:10,100
And that's a great statement to end on.
1930
01:31:11,000 --> 01:31:12,800
So yeah, thank you so much for joining me.
1931
01:31:12,800 --> 01:31:15,900
Oh anything you want to shout out or let people know where
1932
01:31:15,900 --> 01:31:17,800
they can find you if they have more questions.
1933
01:31:18,400 --> 01:31:21,500
Yeah, so our YouTube channel is just Richardson's climbing.
1934
01:31:22,200 --> 01:31:26,900
Our website is also Richardson's climbing and my husband's
1935
01:31:26,900 --> 01:31:28,700
Instagram account is Richardson's climbing.
1936
01:31:28,700 --> 01:31:30,700
So you can just check out any of those things.
1937
01:31:31,000 --> 01:31:32,900
Yeah, like those all in the description.
1938
01:31:33,700 --> 01:31:34,000
Cool.
1939
01:31:34,000 --> 01:31:36,900
Thank you so much for joining me and it was amazing to talk to you.
1940
01:31:37,500 --> 01:31:37,700
All right.
1941
01:31:37,700 --> 01:31:38,200
Thank you.
1942
01:31:38,400 --> 01:31:41,700
Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast.
1943
01:31:41,700 --> 01:31:44,900
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed otherwise
1944
01:31:44,900 --> 01:31:47,100
you are a super fake climber.
1945
01:31:47,600 --> 01:31:50,400
If you're listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate
1946
01:31:50,400 --> 01:31:53,900
if you rate it five stars and you can continue the discussion
1947
01:31:53,900 --> 01:31:57,900
on the free competition climbing discord linked in the description.
1948
01:31:57,900 --> 01:31:59,100
Thanks again for listening.
