25: Allen Lactaoen, Brand New Athlete

I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene.


Show Notes

Guest links:

Instagram

Reference links:

Climbing Gems Bag


Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Our climbing sesh

2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old

6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old

11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam

19:01 - Being a weekend warrior

24:14 - Current training + work balance

29:43 - Never having a personal coach

32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck

38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone

45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours

51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder

54:07 - Least favorite comp moment

57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty

59:37 - Favorite comp moment

1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag

1:10:13 - Where is Guam

1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene

1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber?

1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to all future bouldering WCs?

1:35:24 - Final thoughts/where to find Allen

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    my first World Cup, and I was the only one from the organization present. I didn't really have

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    a coach there, we didn't have our federation president there, or we didn't have any other

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    athletes, it was just me representing Guam. Besides the coach, the lead specialist, Vicki,

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    who is our female lead specialist, and me, everyone else has been climbing for less than a year.

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    He told us that Akiyo Noguchi started climbing because she visited Guam.

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    If you feel like you started too late, I mean, ideally you want to start early,

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    but it's never too late to try and become something bigger.

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    Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm your host Jinni,

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    and I'm excited to introduce my first in-person guest, Allen Lacktaoen. I know Allen from our

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    climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulder for a brand new IFSC federation,

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    Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it's like competing on the World Cup circuit as an

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    average climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full-time engineering job.

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    We'll also hear about what it's like as a new competitor competing in Innsbruck, including the

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    after-parties, and we'll learn all about the Guam climbing scene. If you're watching this on YouTube,

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    you might notice some strange cuts to help the podcast flow better for audio only,

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    but hopefully the appearances made by the cat will help make up for it.

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    I hope you enjoy this episode with Allen. How was the climbing session? Good. You're talking about

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    today's session? Yeah. Climbing session today was good. Since I'm still recovering from a

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    finger injury, slight, like a minor finger injury, it felt pretty nice. In the main bouldering area,

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    I was able to kind of climb without the tape on. So I've been slowly, progressively overloading it

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    with tape and then without tape. It's been getting better. So the session today was good.

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    Yeah. And you? How was your session? It was, I was happy to do most of the b-boulders on this

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    slab. Did you try the other b-boulders on the overhang? I did one that Darren recommended to me

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    and then another one that was a little hard. My fingers are kind of hurting today. So for those

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    who don't know, I think a lot of people probably don't know you super well. No, I wouldn't expect

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    people to know me already, but I'm still new to the circuit. Maybe people who watch who like know

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    you in person. Yeah. So how did you get into climbing? So I picked up climbing back in

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    2018 while I was in college. Fairly recent. Yeah, fairly recent. Only been six years,

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    almost six years. I'm going on six. But yeah, it was my best friend in college, his sister climbed.

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    And so when I went to their place for Thanksgiving, it was, they brought me to one of the climbing

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    gyms up there and it's in Santa Rosa. And so then I picked up it there and then I started climbing

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    at school. We had a climbing wall on campus and then at the local climbing gym that everyone went

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    to. So that's where I picked it up. And then yeah, since then I've been mainly training for outdoors.

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    So a lot of my training started focused on outdoors, especially later on as I got better

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    in climbing. Like I think my first outdoor trip was maybe six months into climbing,

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    five, five or six months into climbing outdoors. And then I got strong pretty quick, then got injured.

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    Oh, that's a classic. The classic got too strong too fast, then got injured. Then you don't,

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    if you're not still new climbing, trying to figure out a good protocol to heal faster and like get

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    stronger as you're still injured was not in my mindset yet. So then I kind of went back in strength.

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    But I got in that time, I got better at slopers than I was in crimps. So then now that's why now

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    I, I would say my favorite is the sloper. Yeah. And then got back up to speed

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    right before COVID, then COVID hit. And then during that time in COVID, I just recently

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    moved down here to San Diego and then started working as a full-time engineer. So then in that

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    time frame, it was hard to train because the gyms were closed. And if the gyms were open,

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    you would have to schedule maybe like only a one hour period of training. And, and that was only,

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    you're only allowed one hour training twice a week. So then you'd only train two hours a week.

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    And that was hard, especially if you didn't have a home wall, like everyone started building

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    home walls. I, as I was like living in a house that my roommate's parents owned,

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    you know, I didn't really want to build in their backyard. Yeah. And I didn't want to take up their

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    space. And plus, you know, knowing that I might have to move in the future, I didn't want to

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    have to deal with that. So it's like, oh, so then most of my training was delayed at that point and

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    then picked up speed again in like 2021. And then slowly got better. Or is this? Yeah. Yeah. And

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    then I remember those days. Yeah. And then I had to schedule, but I don't think we had a limit in

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    terms of how many sessions you had. Oh, really? The gyms. An hour? Yeah. Hour, an hour and a half.

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    It was pretty, it was pretty bad. It was like, yeah. I mean, before it was like, you'd only,

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    you'd warm up for like five minutes on like easy problems and a new project for the next 45.

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    Huh. To like an hour and a half. And it's just like, ah, it was tough during those times.

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    So then I would try and climb outside, but then I was, I was still new to my full-time job. So

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    it was hard to balance that. And so then there's still some like hardships in my whole climbing

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    career, but then I'm glad that I was able to pick up, pick it up again recently. And then switched

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    to comp climbing once the Guam team was made. And like, once I found out that the Guam, that Guam

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    created a team and recently got accepted into the IFSC, which was last year. So technically I've only

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    been comp climbing for like the last nine months. Okay. So you pretty much link Boulder. Have you

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    ever considered doing league competition? I have. Yeah. I mean, when, when the Guam team went for

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    the Oceania qualifiers for the Olympics, it's, it was a combined format. So then I had to train a

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    little bit of lead and kind of get back up to speed. I didn't like, by preference, I don't usually

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    train lead. But I thought about it to supplement my bouldering. Yeah. As in like, because I don't

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    have a lot of endurance in climbing, like normally like, you know, the typical bouldering, I don't

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    really like, you know, the typical boulder saying it's like, you go up three clips and you're already

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    pumped. Yeah. That's me. I've definitely, when I started out climbing, I was thinking I would

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    end up being a lead specialist, which is, I mean, I bought like a whole bunch of like

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    carabiners, quick draws, and I bought a rope to climb in the gym. And then, you know, I liked it.

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    I didn't do it all the time, but I would occasionally hop on ropes when I wouldn't like oppose it when

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    friends would offer to, you know, climb on ropes. And I mean, I enjoyed it back then. Now it's like,

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    I prefer just bouldering. Yeah. Because it's easier access. That's true. In terms of like,

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    having to find a partner, you know, scheduling with someone else to even,

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    that I'm scheduling with someone else that you know, you trust, the way you, you know, it's hard

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    to do that rather than, I mean, people still trust other people to believe them when you do with the

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    open signup sheets in some gyms. It's like, okay. But I mean, like I like to climb with other people

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    that I know that can take care of me and stuff like that. Yeah. But I mean, yeah, that's that.

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    I mean, that's one main reason why I ended up just leaning more toward bouldering. And I mean,

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    also it's just, I feel like I'm more of like a powerful style movement versus like long endurance

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    climbs. And even in general, I've noticed that in other sports too. And that's why I've always,

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    I recently, I thought about maybe I should try speed. Yeah. But I mean, maybe, I mean, I used to

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    play volleyball in high school and I have strong legs and maybe I can implement that in speed

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    climbing, but we'll see. Yeah. That's still in the thought process. If I want to ever try it out.

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    Yeah. Well, I guess I also wonder because it seems like lead competitors tend to have a little bit

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    more longevity in this sport. Right. At lead. That makes, yeah. And how old are you? You're like.

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    29. I just turned 29 this year. Yeah. I thought you were 28. No, I, yeah. Don't rely on me.

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    So like you're getting pretty like super old. Like, ah, I mean, I don't like to think.

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    You're about to die. No, no, no, no, no. I mean, I don't like to think of that. I like,

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    like, I don't like to think about the age. I mean, it's a nice little fallback of an excuse to,

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    yeah, I'm not having a good day because of my age. So, you know, or like I'm having a bad session

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    because like, you know, for my age, I'm pretty tired for the session. So I have some friends

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    that are like younger than me or older than me too. Like they are just one, they always wonder

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    or ask me and say, how do you, how do you have the, like the, the stamina to, or the energy to like

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    JV's three hour sessions, three to four hour sessions, five, four to five days a week. And like, you know,

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    it's a lot of training, but you know, I mean, it's the, I mean, the, the matter of fact is like,

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    I'm enjoying it, you know, like I, yes, I'm tired, but that's the fun part about it. It's like,

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    I enjoy it a lot. And that's the reason why I picked up the comp climbing is because I know that

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    it's like something that I want. And it's like, I've always had this in the back of my mind that I

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    wanted to somehow represent Guam in a way that could bring climbing, like grow with the climbing

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    community back home. I mean, during COVID, I already had thoughts of like, oh, I want to try

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    and open a gym back home. And then the first time I went back home during COVID, I recently

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    found out that they had like a whole climbing community that I didn't know about. And it's been

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    around since like, I think it's the eighties, but, and I was like, has this been my whole life?

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    I could have, I would have picked up climbing way earlier, but I guess it wasn't like well

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    advertising, advertise, or it was, it was like a Facebook group. So then it was Saoche, Word of

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    Mao. You know, you have to ask the right people, come across the right people that knew about the

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    community. And then when they finally opened up the gym, I was like, oh, someone did it before me,

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    but I wonder who it was. And then they started like picking up. And I mean, that's another fact

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    that is like the Guam climbing community is very, very new. Like the gym only opened up a year and

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    a half ago. They just recently had their first year anniversary. Wait, so that's like the first,

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    the first gym? The first like, well, I guess, advertised gym, I guess, like, because like

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    there, apparently there was an older gym that was open before the new gym opened up. It's like one

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    of those like garage style bouldering gyms that someone owned. Maybe it was, I can't remember

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    if it was like at a, in a empty tenant space or if it was at someone's house. I can't remember

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    what the correct fact of that is, but I've, I just recently found out that too. And I didn't even

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    know that, but yeah, it, it, when they opened up the gym, it was like a small section of the, so

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    the owner of the gym is, he plays badminton. And so part of the gym is half badminton, half climbing.

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    And so there was a small section of, of the badminton courts where it's just like a small,

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    maybe, I don't know how many meters, but it was, it's just like a small section of boulders.

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    And then this year, right after the Oceania qualifier, last year, right after the Oceania

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    qualifiers, they expanded all, like they basically closed off half of the badminton courts.

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    Half the gym is now fully half badminton, half climbing. And I mean, and the gym is pretty big.

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    It's like a warehouse. So it's, it's growing and like a lot more people have been

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    drawing attention to it. And, you know, and that's why like, I, like, I really want this is because

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    like, I really want this is because I want to help be part of the history and like help grow

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    the climbing community back home. While there is still a small community out here that people from

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    Guam in the mainland US that do climb. Yeah. And they reached out to me and some of them I've

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    went to high school with, some of them I haven't. And they reached out to me through the, through the

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    climbing Guam Instagram. And they're like, cause they've been posting about me about going to the

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    Inspirit World Cup and stuff like that. So then I've been getting reached out to about that and be

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    like, how can I be part of the team? And then like even the Guam coach, he's like, dude, ever since

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    like you, like we've been posting about you, like people have been reaching out to us, you know,

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    how can we be part of the team or how can we like help out the team? And that's, and that's, that's

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    kind of what I want. It's like, I want people to like notice it a little bit more so that eventually

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    the next generation of climbers that are coming from Guam don't have to worry about it so much.

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    Like, you know, it's already like, it, you know, we take small steps and that's, and that's as a

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    team, that's what we want is we want to grow the whole community. And I mean, it'd be, it would

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    have been nice to have that growing up as well. And so it's just like, oh, okay. I want this for

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    the future. I'm in Guam. I mean, there is a community there. And the hard part about that is

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    I'm here training. I'm here training basically to kind of gain, I don't know how to say it, but like

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    just to like better myself, to get the experience out here so that I can like maybe go back there

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    and maybe in the future, I'll probably want to coach the team or, you know, or said I can be

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    an engineer back home too. And then coach in the after hours, you know, I mean, because I have that

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    passion for climbing. It's something that I want for Guam. Yeah. Yeah. That makes sense. Because I

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    mean, if that experience and like, like the people who are experienced don't eventually go back

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    to build it up, it's never gonna grow. It's almost like, I don't want to say it's a wasted effort,

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    but that's what it would feel like. Yeah. Well, we'll get into Guam more in a bit, but first.

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    One of the things to me that was most interesting about your story is that unlike most athletes on

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    the circuit, you didn't start out as a youth climber. You started when you were 23, I guess,

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    22. 23, I would say 23. Yeah. Yeah. Which is quite late. Actually, that's later than me,

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    because I think I started when I was 20. So do you feel like you missed out on much starting as an

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    adult? Or how, well, of course you did. How much do you feel like you missed out on starting as an adult?

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    Yes, I have missed out on a lot as if like that, I mean, that's why I mentioned wanting this for

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    Guam is to kind of start the youth gathering for the climbing, because I mean, most of the climbing

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    team right now is all adults and I'm not even the oldest one. Whoa, really? Yeah. I'm not even the

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    oldest one. Well, we need to get into that later. Okay, we'll get into that later. Yeah. But yeah,

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    I'm not even the oldest one, but yeah, I mean, it definitely feels like it seems like it's a little

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    too late a little bit. Like I started late, but I personally, I don't like to think about age as like

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    a, I don't want it like as an excuse to be like, oh, you know, I'm not good enough because, you know,

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    I started too late, you know. I mean, it used to be like that kind of excuse before when I was,

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    when I got injured and, you know, started climbing, I was like, ah, you know, I feel like I might be

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    too old, like get stronger. And maybe yes, it does play a factor, but having that excuse is not part

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    of my mindset. Cause I like to think of like, it's never too late to, you know, if you, if you believe

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    in something that you want to do, you know, age shouldn't stop you being starting too late,

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    shouldn't stop you. I do think I started too late, but I don't think it's too late to

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    succeed in something that to this level. And I think similar to a lot of people who started

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    climbing late and probably a lot of people who are like watching or listening right now,

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    you also mentioned that you have a full-time job. So you're kind of like the weekend warrior.

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    I think that's the term for it. I think there are a lot of like weekend warriors who manage to climb

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    hard in the outdoor scene, but you don't hear of that so much in competition, partially because

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    they're young, but also partially because it's like very time consuming to be, I guess like in

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    competition, you kind of have to be good at everything instead of just projecting like one

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    specific boulder for a long time. So how do you balance work and training?

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    Balancing work and training is kind of difficult. I guess it would say, I would say it's a difficult

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    topic to even like delve into because normally the balance is by feel. Like I like, like I'll go into

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    work, like do my engineering job and then I'll have to reset my mind and then go to the gym

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    and then kind of try and lock in, you know, which is why I kind of like take the training class that

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    we take because it's kind of nice to have someone tell you what to do in training versus like

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    training on your own. So I kind of have more days, I try to have more days where I'm training with

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    someone rather than training with someone else. That way I don't have, I have to think a little

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    bit West where I can just balance back and forth, change ideas, stuff like that. And then in the

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    training class, I just have someone telling me like the workouts, what to do. But like balancing

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    work and climbing is very, I would say the hard part of it is having energy every day to try and

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    to try and balance everything because I mean by the end of the day of like, because I mean

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    realistically, I mean I've worked a nine to five, but realistically I only worked six hours mainly

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    because two of those hours-

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    Are you sure you want that going out on the internet?

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    No, I mean, no, I mean like in like locked in, like I'm at work for eight hours, but like I'm

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    locked in for six, like the first hour is like me trying to like call myself, like get into the

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    mindset of getting into work. And at the last hour of the day, I'm trying to like ease down and like

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    get ready for training, right? So that's six hours of work, hour in between, and then I have the hour

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    lunch. So the nine hour day, but like six hours of mainly working.

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    Yeah.

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    Right. I mean, and that's, you try to break it down into that so that you can kind of like

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    get into different cycles of phases in the day to like when to train yourself to like

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    when to lock into work and then when to log out of work. And then trying to make sure you stay

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    log out of work so you don't have to think about whatever you're working on and you just worry

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    about that tomorrow. And then you kind of lock in the training. And then when you're in training,

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    kind of like say like, oh, I should have sent something. I'm like working on a project. Oh,

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    I should have sent it. Well, I try to like leave that out of my mind and just kind of be present

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    a little bit. Cause if I don't, then I'm going to have a bad session. And it's, and I mean,

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    and that's the hard part too in training. It's like sometimes coming from being an outside climber

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    to becoming a competition climber. The transition was a little bit difficult for me because in

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    competition climbing, you want to flash all the, you want to flash the problem ideally. And then

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    in outdoor setting, it's more of like enjoying the process of projecting. You know, I mean,

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    yeah, sure. It'd be nice to flash it, flash a boulder outside or whatever. But what makes outdoor

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    climbing very fun is the process of projecting, being able to tweak data and sit there and just

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    admire the boulder, a little boulder route, and then just kind of climb it once you go for the

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    red point and enjoy that. But in comp climbing, you either try it within that session, like in a

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    competition setting, especially in a World Cup setting, it's like you either do it or you don't

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    because it's going to be gone in the next few hours. Or it's going to be gone the next day.

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    And you kind of have to like, what you have to learn how to let go of the things that you

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    didn't send and just kind of take what you learned from that experience. And then after that,

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    then kind of going back and reflecting off of it, but don't dwell on it and see what you can improve

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    on. And I mean, yeah, and I mean, that's like the same thing with balancing work and training. It's

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    like you kind of have to go in and out of those phases and then kind of forgetting what you,

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    like the mistakes you made prior and kind of moving forward and see how you can improve.

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    Okay, so what does your training look like right now with your work schedule?

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    Coming up to Innsbruck, it's like three days on straight, one day rest, two days on then rest.

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    So I'll do a three to week basically, Mondays rest days, Fridays rest days, and then all

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    the days in between our workout days. How tired do you feel third day on? Because

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    I never told you this, but my benchmark for my climbing was that I wanted to climb harder than

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    you if you were third day on. That's a weird benchmark to say. I need some kind of like

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    comparison, otherwise I have no motivation. I mean, that's fair because I mean, I sometimes

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    I'll compare myself to Darren. Yeah, exactly. Darren is one of our strong friends in the class.

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    I mean, it depends on how well I slept the day, the day's prayer or how well I eat in a week. I

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    mean, that's another hard thing about balancing the life and work and training is trying to

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    find a way to fit in cooking and or like, you know, cooking. It's hard. Because after a session,

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    session ends at nine, I'll get home at like nine, 15, and 30, cook. Oh, you eat after.

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    Yeah, I eat after. Oh, that makes sense. Yeah, I eat after. Yeah, it starts early because six

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    is like right after work. Yeah, six is right after work. I mean, I'm not gonna have it.

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    No wonder you always eat a snack during class. Yeah, I always buy a snack during class.

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    If I don't buy a snack during class, then I'm just hungry the whole time. Or I'll just eat

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    like a late lunch. Yeah. Like I'll eat at like three, two or three and then I'll just, because

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    you know, I just, I'm locked in at work and I just like, I can't find the time to eat. I'm just like,

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    I'll wait till like later. Yeah. I'll eat my lunch then. And I'll be like, okay, I'll strategically

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    place my lunch right before class so that I'm not as hungry during class. And then eat dinner late.

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    But yeah, I mean, that's, I mean, that's the, that's what would dictate how tired I would

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    be on the third day. I mean, it's different from when I started training out at the beginning of

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    the year. I was doing six days on. Yeah. And that was a bad idea. Thinking that like my mindset was

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    like, oh, more timing, I can do this. More training means I'm going to get better faster. But that,

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    don't ever do that. Yeah. Like don't ever, like, I don't know why I thought that. I mean,

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    I did help a little bit, but it started doing a lot of overuse injuries, not injuries, but like,

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    I started aches. I started having aches. Yeah. And then like, as I slowly got out of that and started

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    doing just five days on, but doing of quality training, but then having good rest in between,

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    I started feeling a little bit better. And that's, I mean, that's key things like warm up properly.

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    If I don't warm up properly, then I'm going to have a bad session. If I warm up properly,

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    it doesn't matter how tired I am. I'm just going to have a decent session if I warm up.

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    And I use my warm up as a gauge of how well I'm going to be, how well I feel I'm going to be doing

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    that day. And then, and I just accordingly where it's like, Oh, I feel really great. I'm going to

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    try really, really hard. It doesn't matter how hard the problem is or how hard these moves are

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    going to be or whatever workout we're going to do. It's just going to, I'm going to be like,

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    I'm going to try hard. Okay. Yeah. And then if I'm feeling, feeling pretty crappy during warm up,

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    then I'm just like, okay, I'm just going to dial down a little bit, still try hard, but

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    don't overdo it. Otherwise I'm just going to force and force an injury. Yeah. You know, try hard

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    enough that you don't force, you don't get, you don't get injured. Yeah. Yeah. Do you think these

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    are like old people thoughts though, because a lot of the pros do six days and like double sessions.

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    I mean, I recently, I've been thinking about the five days on with double sessions on some days,

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    like just to just split up the time. Yeah. Like, cause I don't want to do a three hour session

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    session, but then half of that session is a strength training workout. You know, I want to

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    do like three hours, like maybe three hours of quality climbing session and then maybe do like

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    the workout in the morning, you know, feel fresh. I like do the workout, rest a little bit during

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    the day during work and then go into the climbing session like full on. And that's something that

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    I've been thinking of recently. I'm still trying to find that out. And I mean, I have a training

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    journal. I don't really write into it. I just like, all I, all I write into it is this is the days I'm

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    going to go to climb. This is the workouts I'm going to do. That's it. And then I close the book

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    and then remember everything. Forget about the book. Okay. I'll go back to it once in a while and be

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    like, okay, I'll write my PRs. Okay. Yeah. Like max pull ups, how much weight I'm using the train

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    and how I want to increase that over time. I mean, this is just me as like starting out, like,

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    you know, I'm, I'm experimenting with myself because like, I mean, we have coach Amico helping

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    us like train and I get ideas of workouts from him, but a lot of the training that I do is,

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    is basically kind of, I'm personally putting it together for myself because I know myself,

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    I know my body pretty well and I know how to adjust, um, pro, uh, accordingly whenever

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    I'm feeling something's not working out. Yeah. So in terms of coaching,

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    did you ever have a coach or like currently have a coach? I mean, I considered coach Rico as a

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    coach. Okay. Well, like, you know, it's like very, it's different when it's kind of as a group versus

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    like a personal. Oh yeah. I mean, I don't think I, no, I don't, I don't think I've ever had like a

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    personal coach, like, uh, like tell me specifically, this is what you're going to do. I mean, eventually

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    I kind of want to go into that because I just, you know, once I get to a certain point, it's like,

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    if I feel like I'm plateauing, I might just like kind of like get coaching, like full coaching,

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    like invest in full time coaching. Like this is like one-on-one coaching. Yeah. It's hard to,

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    it's hard to, it's kind of hard to find what I prefer one-on-one coaching, but it's hard to,

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    it's, it's hard to find that because a lot of the training plans that people put together today,

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    it's usually just given to athletes, especially like for people climbing outside, you know.

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    Oh sure. Yeah. But like, I don't know, like for climbing for, for competitions, I,

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    I don't know where the outlets to look for. Like I, I normally, I just like kind of like start

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    Googling things. But then by that, at that point, it's like, I'm ready. It's planning for myself.

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    Uh, sure. I mean, I guess when I'm thinking of coaching, I'm not necessarily thinking like,

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    oh, someone who just writes a training plan for you, but someone who's like watching you climb

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    and giving you feedback on your climbing and what you're doing wrong for like a full hour instead

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    of like. Eventually I might want to do it one-on-one, but not, but I still like the group setting

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    because in the group setting, it feels nice because you have other people training you on,

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    you know, you have a sense of, and I, I mean, that's why I like climbing. It's like the sense

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    of community, kind of bouncing off ideas off of each other, even though maybe some data might not

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    work for you, but at least you know, uh, based on like, you know, based on their body structure,

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    I guess, and like playing height, stuff like that is it, it helps later down the line. If I ever want

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    to coach, it's like, oh, maybe I know a certain data for a certain person because this is like

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    your side that fits your box. Well, you know, if it doesn't fix your box, fit, fit your box, then

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    let's adjust that accordingly based because I, I've talked to other climbers and what their

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    thoughts are, their thought processes. And that's why I like the group setting, but it'd be nice to

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    just have this one-on-one. Yeah, you should try one. I mean, Enrico does one-on-ones. Yeah, yeah,

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    yeah. I still have to ask him, but I'm just always having fun in the class. I never really,

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    I always forget. I always forget. Not one day, one day, eventually. So getting to your IFSC

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    experience, um, I've been waiting forever to hear about this because it, I mean,

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    Innsbruck was a little while ago. Please excuse this brief intermission, but I've gotten a few

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    requests for this. So I just wanted to announce that if you're interested in helping support the

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    show, my Patreon page is now live. Some perks include ad free, interruption free episodes,

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    deleted scenes, prioritized guest questions, or the ability to submit video questions,

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    an enamel pin shipped to you after two months of membership, and much more to come. The proceeds

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    go back into the podcast to help me break even and they help improve the experience of the guests.

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    If you'd like to support the podcast non-monetarily, liking, commenting, and sharing

    315

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    helps a great deal as well. Back to the show. So yeah, you just recently went to your first

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    ever World Cup for bouldering in Innsbruck, um, which is also kind of like a crazy first

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    venue because I think there are more approachable ones or like Salt Lake is like closer at least.

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    Salt Lake is closer. I was supposed to go to that, but I think the funding for the organization,

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    that for the Guam organization was out there yet. So then they were trying to figure out how to fund

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    uh, the athletes and stuff like that. So then I just had to wait for the time, the right time to go.

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    And I think Innsbruck was a nice experience to go to, even though talking to some of the climbers

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    there, they're like, they're like, oh, it's quite the choice to start at Innsbruck. And even like

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    people outside the circuit are like setters that I like Jesse at Flux. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, Jesse at

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    Flux, he was like, yeah, Innsbruck was quite the choice because I've heard this from a lot of

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    climbers that Innsbruck is supposed to be one of the hardest World Cups out of the whole circuit.

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    Apparently, uh, not the minor, I didn't know that, but yeah, I was just like, oh, Innsbruck is like

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    a nice place to be. Yeah. And a lot of people like to go to that World Cup. It'd be a nice

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    opportunity to meet other climbers in the circuit and just kind of learn from that experience. Plus

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    it'd be, sometimes you just gotta start hard. I mean, yeah. I mean, it's totally fine. Yeah.

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    00:34:42,240 --> 00:34:47,040

    It's yeah. I just thought, you know, Salt Lake might make more sense. Yeah. It would just be

    331

    00:34:47,040 --> 00:34:51,120

    easier. It would have been easier to go to. But yeah. So since you're brand new to the circuit,

    332

    00:34:51,120 --> 00:34:58,880

    I guess take me through the entire process of the comp because like I've interviewed more season

    333

    00:34:58,880 --> 00:35:03,040

    athletes, but they're like so used to it that they don't really, they're just, they know what

    334

    00:35:03,040 --> 00:35:10,960

    it's like. So for you not having been to any before, like, what was it like? Did anything like surprise

    335

    00:35:10,960 --> 00:35:24,480

    you? Um, yeah, I guess like the timing, uh, of when you want to go to, um, the country or city that

    336

    00:35:24,480 --> 00:35:28,720

    you're, that the World Cup is going to be in because like, you know, you have to need some time

    337

    00:35:28,720 --> 00:35:35,520

    to acclimate to the time zone, get used to the, you know, get into the groove again after doing

    338

    00:35:36,000 --> 00:35:42,400

    a long flight. I mean, from, from here, yeah. I mean, like from here to Europe, it's like a

    339

    00:35:42,960 --> 00:35:48,000

    10 hour flight, depending on where you go. And then, you know, you have to kind of acclimate

    340

    00:35:48,000 --> 00:35:54,000

    after that, like sitting down the whole time, you know, eating, if you don't bring food with

    341

    00:35:54,000 --> 00:36:00,240

    you or snacks with you, airport food, trying to react from a getting used to the surroundings,

    342

    00:36:00,240 --> 00:36:05,360

    you know, learning your way towards the gym, stuff like that. It gets a little stressful.

    343

    00:36:05,360 --> 00:36:14,160

    See the timing of when we get to the country or city, uh, kind of plays a little bit into how

    344

    00:36:14,160 --> 00:36:20,240

    well you lean into the competition. How early did you go? Uh, I would say I got there maybe

    345

    00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:27,040

    five, six days before. Oh, that's so not early enough. A lot of the athletes that I saw there,

    346

    00:36:28,080 --> 00:36:34,160

    I met there, some of them were there for like maybe a week and a half to two weeks before.

    347

    00:36:34,960 --> 00:36:40,880

    I mean, some of them train there regularly. So they're either there a month before, you know,

    348

    00:36:40,880 --> 00:36:47,920

    so it depends on who that depends on the athletes and what fits their budget. And so I think

    349

    00:36:47,920 --> 00:36:52,560

    that's on what fits their budget and stuff like that or what fits their timeframe. I mean, for me

    350

    00:36:53,360 --> 00:36:58,640

    working as an engineer, I kind of have the time at where, okay, I'm going to, I'm going to leave

    351

    00:36:58,640 --> 00:37:04,160

    after a full week of work. So I'll probably leave on a Friday or Saturday and then get there and

    352

    00:37:04,160 --> 00:37:10,160

    then acclimate. And then, you know, and like, you know, if I'm there like a week or two before,

    353

    00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:15,680

    I'm still going to be working remote. Oh, you still worked? Yeah. Oh, I know. I don't know.

    354

    00:37:15,680 --> 00:37:21,920

    Okay. No, because, well, because this was my first one, my first World Cup and I was the only one

    355

    00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:27,360

    from the organization present. Yeah. It was no, I didn't really have a coach there. We didn't have

    356

    00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:32,240

    our federation president there or I didn't, we didn't have any other athletes. It was just me

    357

    00:37:32,880 --> 00:37:40,880

    representing Guam. So I wanted my full attention for the whole thing, like the whole event.

    358

    00:37:40,880 --> 00:37:47,760

    Yeah. So basically the whole two weeks I was in Innsbruck, I just took, but I regularly,

    359

    00:37:47,760 --> 00:37:53,360

    like whenever I go, when I travel a lot to other countries or, you know, when I'm on like training,

    360

    00:37:54,240 --> 00:38:00,720

    sometimes I'll go to visit family in Europe. Oh, sure. Yeah. Or like, you know, or, or like if I'm

    361

    00:38:00,720 --> 00:38:07,840

    going on a climbing trip to like either train in another gym or, you know, go home to Guam,

    362

    00:38:07,840 --> 00:38:14,240

    I will normally work remote. Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah. I mean, somehow got to pay for travel.

    363

    00:38:17,040 --> 00:38:22,080

    But I mean, that, that was, yeah. So then timing it was one of it. And then

    364

    00:38:23,600 --> 00:38:30,160

    getting, because it was my first time, it's like, sometimes it does suck when you're in a new setting

    365

    00:38:30,160 --> 00:38:38,560

    like that for the first time, trying to know someone is key a little bit. Like trying to get to know

    366

    00:38:38,560 --> 00:38:45,200

    either people on the circuit or if you're training at the gym before, you know, before the event,

    367

    00:38:45,200 --> 00:38:51,760

    try to make maybe like a friend. Yeah. I mean, going alone is crazy. Yeah. It's like you're in a

    368

    00:38:51,760 --> 00:38:57,600

    new setting. You don't know anyone at the gym and you know, obviously it's your first time on the

    369

    00:38:57,600 --> 00:39:04,800

    circuit and like me not being part of the youth circuit or anything like that. No one really knows

    370

    00:39:04,800 --> 00:39:10,000

    me. So then it's just like, it does become a little bit nerve wracking. That's like one thing

    371

    00:39:10,000 --> 00:39:14,640

    I kind of focused on once I got there is to kind of get into a group, get to know people. Well,

    372

    00:39:14,640 --> 00:39:19,840

    get to know at least someone. But I mean, luckily I have a friend that lives in Innsbruck. So then

    373

    00:39:19,840 --> 00:39:25,520

    I, I did have some sessions with him prior to the event. So then it kind of eased the nerves. But

    374

    00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:30,960

    yeah, like the first session I had at the gym, I was like, my heart was racing. It's like, oh my

    375

    00:39:30,960 --> 00:39:36,640

    God, it's sinking in. And by the second day I had the session with my friend and then it was like,

    376

    00:39:36,640 --> 00:39:43,040

    oh, okay. Everything's relaxed slowly, slowly. Like I'm starting to relax a little bit. And by

    377

    00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:48,800

    the time I got into ISO, I made some friends that who are from other countries that are on the

    378

    00:39:48,800 --> 00:39:54,080

    circuit. Also they're fighting, it's their debut or they've been on the circuit for like maybe once

    379

    00:39:54,080 --> 00:39:59,840

    or one or two World Cups. They've been to one or two World Cups and got to know them a little bit

    380

    00:39:59,840 --> 00:40:05,600

    more. Got to learn some, maybe some of their struggles or struggles within their organization

    381

    00:40:05,600 --> 00:40:11,920

    in terms of like other stuff. And so it was like kind of nice to have those kinds of conversations

    382

    00:40:11,920 --> 00:40:18,880

    with other countries. And then that kind of like, by the time I was in ISO, I didn't think of

    383

    00:40:18,880 --> 00:40:26,640

    anything. Like everything was kind of relaxed. It was very nice to see all of the big names in ISO

    384

    00:40:26,640 --> 00:40:33,360

    and during training sessions that like in the gym that are like also like training for the World Cup.

    385

    00:40:33,360 --> 00:40:37,040

    Kind of, it was definitely a little bit nerve wracking, but it's like after you see them once,

    386

    00:40:37,040 --> 00:40:45,680

    it's like, cool. We're just all climbers. It takes some time to sink in, but once it sinks in, it's

    387

    00:40:45,680 --> 00:40:52,960

    like you're kind of starting to slowly lock, you're slowly locking in. So like when you saw

    388

    00:40:52,960 --> 00:41:02,400

    the big names like warming up, did that mess with your mind at all? Days prior, sort of, but not on

    389

    00:41:02,400 --> 00:41:08,560

    ISO day. Oh really? Yeah. I mean, you already know the skill level and you know the skill gap, but

    390

    00:41:08,560 --> 00:41:13,200

    it's like, you know, you're there. Like to me personally, it was like, I'm there to learn

    391

    00:41:13,200 --> 00:41:19,600

    from the experience and I'm there to also just try hard and see how much my training has been

    392

    00:41:19,600 --> 00:41:26,960

    for the past six months prior has been doing compared to because I mean, I used Innsbruck

    393

    00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:33,440

    as a benchmark to see how my training has been doing, working, has been working throughout the

    394

    00:41:33,440 --> 00:41:40,240

    six months after, six, seven months after the Oceania qualifiers. Because I did okay at the

    395

    00:41:40,240 --> 00:41:44,160

    Oceania qualifiers and then coming into Innsbruck where it's the hardest, one of the hardest world

    396

    00:41:44,160 --> 00:41:51,280

    cups, I think I did okay. Yeah. I could have done better, but because it was my first competition,

    397

    00:41:51,920 --> 00:41:57,760

    it was a, I mean, the thing, the key points that I, you know, that people normally would look for,

    398

    00:41:57,760 --> 00:42:04,080

    it's like never crossed my mind, but after doing it, it's like, oh, you know, when you're on the

    399

    00:42:04,080 --> 00:42:10,640

    floor, like switching beta up something like you kind of, a lot of, I've talked to this about with

    400

    00:42:10,640 --> 00:42:18,720

    Enrico where it's like, you, that's somehow, that's how you can tell from the elite and advanced

    401

    00:42:18,720 --> 00:42:27,440

    climbers where sometimes the elite climbers can change beta mid-move, you know, or like even in

    402

    00:42:27,440 --> 00:42:34,480

    the, in a dyno movement, they can probably change their beta mid-air. Potentially. I mean, I don't

    403

    00:42:34,480 --> 00:42:43,360

    know for sure, but that's like an idea to think about it. Like, you know, but like me, I'm like

    404

    00:42:43,360 --> 00:42:48,080

    changing beta while I'm on the floor. Sure. Yeah. Not while I'm on the wall. Cause like, I'm, I'm

    405

    00:42:48,080 --> 00:42:53,520

    not searching for the right, I mean, I was, but in some of the movements that you're doing during

    406

    00:42:53,520 --> 00:42:58,240

    comps, you're doing a dyno or you're doing like, it's hard to make those micro adjustments in the

    407

    00:42:58,240 --> 00:43:03,760

    air and think about it once you're on the ground, because you tend to be like, oh, that works. And

    408

    00:43:03,760 --> 00:43:09,760

    you get stuck in a loop of like, okay, I'm going to keep trying it and, you know, almost works one

    409

    00:43:09,760 --> 00:43:14,800

    time. So then you keep, you get stuck into that group. I mean, you, you've competed, you know how

    410

    00:43:14,800 --> 00:43:19,760

    that feels. You know how that feels. Well, I don't really have as much, so much time pressure, but

    411

    00:43:19,760 --> 00:43:28,400

    yeah. I mean, we had five minutes on the wall in qualifications. I mean, five minutes is, is a rough

    412

    00:43:28,400 --> 00:43:35,200

    time. Yeah. Yeah. I mean, it's, it's not enough time to like try and set the, but I mean, it's,

    413

    00:43:35,920 --> 00:43:41,600

    you had some time to just have it. It's, it's, it's like the time to like try and like

    414

    00:43:42,400 --> 00:43:47,120

    put, give it your all. And I mean, definitely after my qualification round, I felt like I ran her.

    415

    00:43:47,120 --> 00:43:53,760

    I ran like five miles. I was like out of breath. I was gassing for air. I mean, cause a lot, like

    416

    00:43:53,760 --> 00:44:00,640

    a lot of it was, a lot of it was just fighting on the wall. And my friend that was in Innsbruck,

    417

    00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:04,640

    that was in the crowd cheering me on. He was like, dude, what is it? He was like, what is it? How

    418

    00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:09,760

    does it feel to be up there on the stage? And it's like, honestly, like I, like once you're standing

    419

    00:44:09,760 --> 00:44:18,240

    on the stage, like, like when I was up there, for me, it was like, I'm seeing the boulder that I'm

    420

    00:44:18,240 --> 00:44:25,280

    going to climb, but then I'm also seeing someone top next to me, someone trying and falling next

    421

    00:44:25,760 --> 00:44:32,160

    to my right and someone topping to my left. And so like, I tried to funnel that out. And then

    422

    00:44:32,160 --> 00:44:37,520

    he was like, do you hear the crowd? Like, do you ever like feel like the presence of the crowd?

    423

    00:44:37,520 --> 00:44:44,880

    And I'm like, yeah, I do. But once I'm like focused on the climb, every, I like, I, the audio of the

    424

    00:44:44,880 --> 00:44:50,320

    crowd, like just tunes out. Like I don't, I don't hear it. All I hear is like, if someone says my

    425

    00:44:50,320 --> 00:44:57,600

    name, sure. I mean, obviously like someone's cheering my name or, you know, the announcer,

    426

    00:44:57,600 --> 00:45:03,920

    that's it. But I mean, like even that, the announcer would be tuned out already because I'm so focused

    427

    00:45:03,920 --> 00:45:09,200

    on the climb. And I think that's just either that's a me thing or if it's something that other

    428

    00:45:09,200 --> 00:45:14,800

    athletes may also have, but that personally, that's, that's what happened. Like that's how it felt

    429

    00:45:14,800 --> 00:45:19,840

    during the climbs. Yeah. I mean, I think that's, that's what you want. You don't want to be thinking

    430

    00:45:19,840 --> 00:45:23,280

    about everything. You kind of only want to be thinking about the boulder. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.

    431

    00:45:24,240 --> 00:45:29,600

    But yeah, going back to ISO, since it was your first time, you're not ranked, you must have been

    432

    00:45:29,600 --> 00:45:38,000

    in ISO for like ever. Oh, well, so I thought I would, I would have been, well, I'm not ranked,

    433

    00:45:38,000 --> 00:45:43,200

    but then because I think I, because I did the oceanic wall fire, I sort of was like a little

    434

    00:45:43,200 --> 00:45:50,480

    bit bumped up into the cycle. So I was like, not at the end, but I was near the end. And then some

    435

    00:45:50,480 --> 00:45:58,080

    people that would never did youth worlds, youth world cups or, you know, like, you know,

    436

    00:45:58,080 --> 00:46:05,200

    world cups or that didn't do the youth circuit. And it's the first time they were on like the

    437

    00:46:05,200 --> 00:46:12,560

    end of the list. Oh, okay. Yeah. So how long were you in ISO for? I would say we got into ISO like

    438

    00:46:12,560 --> 00:46:22,720

    around noon, noon or like one o'clock in the afternoon. And I didn't get on till eight.

    439

    00:46:22,720 --> 00:46:28,480

    What? Yeah. I mean, I was supposed to get on at seven, but then the rain, the rain,

    440

    00:46:28,480 --> 00:46:36,000

    I mean, whatever. Sure. Yeah. It rained, it rained in the middle of ISO. So then people who were

    441

    00:46:36,000 --> 00:46:43,520

    halfway through their, their climbs had to stop because it rained. I mean, we could have continued

    442

    00:46:43,520 --> 00:46:51,440

    climbing, but then the venue was fully covered. It would have been nice to have were they're out

    443

    00:46:51,440 --> 00:46:58,240

    because the mats were not, the mats were wet, which is why they stopped it. The boulders weren't wet,

    444

    00:46:58,880 --> 00:47:11,360

    but yeah. So then I had, we, everyone that was like maybe from six PM to eight got pushed back

    445

    00:47:11,360 --> 00:47:17,040

    an hour and a half. Wow. Yeah. That is so long though. That's actually longer than I thought.

    446

    00:47:17,040 --> 00:47:22,960

    You have people like, I mean, it's funny to think about it, but people who are at the,

    447

    00:47:22,960 --> 00:47:30,960

    who start later in the, in the qualification rounds, a lot of them take naps.

    448

    00:47:32,480 --> 00:47:36,400

    A lot of them take naps, but sometimes it's nerve wracking to take a nap because you might

    449

    00:47:37,440 --> 00:47:45,920

    oversleep. Yeah. Like one of the, one of the guys I met from the Indian team, from the Indian team,

    450

    00:47:45,920 --> 00:47:53,280

    they, he took a nap and then he woke, he heard someone fall on the warmup wall next to him.

    451

    00:47:53,280 --> 00:47:57,200

    And he thought it was someone trying to wake him up that he was, he didn't make this time.

    452

    00:47:58,800 --> 00:48:02,640

    But he woke up, came back to us and he was like, we were joking around and I was like,

    453

    00:48:02,640 --> 00:48:08,560

    yeah, you should have just kept sleeping because it's raining. You know? And you know, we don't,

    454

    00:48:08,560 --> 00:48:13,920

    we're delayed by, we don't know how much longer. And we were hoping that it would only be 30

    455

    00:48:13,920 --> 00:48:19,680

    minutes, but it turned out to be an hour and a half. Oh my God. Yeah. I mean, like a lot of people

    456

    00:48:19,680 --> 00:48:28,400

    are, if they're later in, later on the qualification round, they either take a nap and you, or they,

    457

    00:48:28,400 --> 00:48:35,680

    and they, or they start warming up like maybe an hour before. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. What did you do?

    458

    00:48:35,680 --> 00:48:42,640

    Did you take a nap? Well, I, to get my like energy going up, I warmed up all the guys that were

    459

    00:48:42,640 --> 00:48:48,560

    warming up, ready to go. You warmed up early? I warmed up, well, so I warmed up early, but I

    460

    00:48:48,560 --> 00:48:55,440

    didn't like, it was like a half, half ass warmup. Like I'm just like doing a band workout, a band

    461

    00:48:55,440 --> 00:49:03,520

    workout, but like a band warmup and then hanging on the hangboard. It was, I mean, like once I'm

    462

    00:49:03,520 --> 00:49:10,320

    warmed up, it's quicker for me to warm up prior to, you know, game time, prior to game time.

    463

    00:49:10,320 --> 00:49:16,560

    Yeah. Cause like I've warmed up maybe like a good 15 minutes at the beginning and then rested for

    464

    00:49:16,560 --> 00:49:23,440

    the next eight hours. Oh my God. Okay. Rested for the next eight hours, well seven hours,

    465

    00:49:23,440 --> 00:49:30,240

    and then I warmed up again prior. Yeah. So, I mean, it definitely sucks to be later in the time

    466

    00:49:30,240 --> 00:49:35,920

    slot, but I mean, it is what it is. Well, you also didn't have your phone. So yeah, we don't have

    467

    00:49:35,920 --> 00:49:41,760

    our phones. That's sad around. I guess you talk to people. Yeah. You know, we get to talk to people.

    468

    00:49:41,760 --> 00:49:49,040

    Some people are playing like football, soccer, soccer in the warmup areas. Yeah. Or like we're

    469

    00:49:49,040 --> 00:49:56,560

    playing like, we're getting to know each other. You know, know some of the climbers. Like I've met

    470

    00:49:56,560 --> 00:50:06,080

    the Thailand team are, I think that's how you say his name. And then I met some like people from

    471

    00:50:06,080 --> 00:50:13,040

    Cyprus, from the India team. And then, you know, at least I got to know people. Like I met,

    472

    00:50:13,040 --> 00:50:19,520

    it's actually the first time I met Al from the US team, the coach for C5. That's the first, I've

    473

    00:50:19,520 --> 00:50:25,920

    seen him at the gym coaching C5, but then like, it's the first time I met him. And then I met

    474

    00:50:25,920 --> 00:50:31,600

    him and like actually introduced myself. Yeah. I met him there and it's like, you know, it's, you

    475

    00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:37,200

    learn how to spend your time in ISO. A lot of the time, like, oh, I actually talked to like some of

    476

    00:50:37,200 --> 00:50:42,240

    the Japanese coaches there too, because they, they saw my shirt and Japan's pretty close to Guam.

    477

    00:50:42,960 --> 00:50:49,520

    Oh, yeah. So then like, they're like, oh, Guam. Yeah. Like how many of you guys are here? And so

    478

    00:50:49,520 --> 00:50:54,480

    they're like, oh, where's the rest of your team? Got to know them. ISO is pretty, it's an interesting,

    479

    00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:59,440

    and I think it's different. It's a different experience for everybody. That was just my

    480

    00:50:59,440 --> 00:51:05,600

    experience. Like, because I, I want to make friends with other countries and get to know them.

    481

    00:51:06,160 --> 00:51:13,040

    That way I have, that way the next time I go to the World Cup, I wouldn't feel so lonely.

    482

    00:51:13,040 --> 00:51:19,600

    Yeah. Okay. And so then going out into the first boulder, what was that like

    483

    00:51:19,600 --> 00:51:27,520

    first ever World Cup qualification boulder? First boulder was actually, it was interesting

    484

    00:51:27,520 --> 00:51:32,720

    because I looked at it, read it as a coordination boulder and like, I was throwing myself at the

    485

    00:51:32,720 --> 00:51:39,920

    boulder. Cause that's, I mean, that's something that I struggled in, in the ocean and qualifiers is that

    486

    00:51:41,520 --> 00:51:48,320

    my coach, I mean, the Guam coach noticed that when I'm trying a boulder, I'm not going 100%.

    487

    00:51:48,320 --> 00:51:54,400

    I'm like maybe giving like 80%, you know, so that I gave it 100% on the first boulder. I'm like

    488

    00:51:54,400 --> 00:52:04,960

    throwing myself on the Cordo, the Cronician Dino, flying on the mats, but I'm like looking at the

    489

    00:52:04,960 --> 00:52:13,120

    boulder and you know, I'm a little bit stumped for the first, like for the first boulders,

    490

    00:52:13,120 --> 00:52:19,440

    for the first boulder, because it's like first actual boulder of the World Cup. And so I'm like

    491

    00:52:19,440 --> 00:52:25,120

    sitting there stumped and like, I'm trying to read the beta. I'm like, ah, shoot. It's slowly

    492

    00:52:25,120 --> 00:52:31,120

    sinking in. Like I got to read this pretty quick. I give it full, like full 100%. So then I'm like

    493

    00:52:31,120 --> 00:52:38,320

    throwing myself at it. Didn't get it, but I felt close. And then, you know, after doing the whole

    494

    00:52:38,320 --> 00:52:45,760

    qualification round, I talked to one of the Australian coaches and he was like, and I was

    495

    00:52:45,760 --> 00:52:51,360

    like, exchange your beta with him. I was like, how did the others do it? Like, it was, did I read it

    496

    00:52:51,360 --> 00:52:56,640

    correctly? I mean, because I didn't have the Guam coach there, but yeah. And then I was like,

    497

    00:52:56,640 --> 00:53:02,480

    I was definitely reading it wrong. Oh, yeah. Because I mean, I read it right the first attempt

    498

    00:53:02,480 --> 00:53:08,000

    and it didn't feel right for me. So then I tried a different way and I stuck it stuck to that beta

    499

    00:53:08,000 --> 00:53:13,520

    than I, the second beta that I picked. Do you have videos of your qualification attempts?

    500

    00:53:14,400 --> 00:53:21,440

    Yes, but I don't have them saved now. I fall. I will eventually put that together in a video.

    501

    00:53:21,440 --> 00:53:27,440

    Okay. Well, I want the videos. So, yeah. It's just going to be a video of videos of me falling.

    502

    00:53:27,440 --> 00:53:33,360

    I mean, but we also like can't see the qualification. Yeah, that's true. So it's just, yeah.

    503

    00:53:33,360 --> 00:53:39,600

    Oh yeah, that's true. Yeah. I forgot. They should feel like they should air the qualification boulders

    504

    00:53:39,600 --> 00:53:46,800

    or at least do, I don't know, highlights, do better highlights of all the athletes versus,

    505

    00:53:46,800 --> 00:53:52,640

    yeah, I don't know. Cause you want to be on TV. Yeah. Yeah. I used to get the exposure, especially

    506

    00:53:52,640 --> 00:53:59,520

    for the people, for the countries that also have the same situation as Guam, you know, they're

    507

    00:53:59,520 --> 00:54:03,520

    small. They want to get the exposure, but it's hard to get that exposure if you're not,

    508

    00:54:05,680 --> 00:54:09,440

    you're not higher up on the circuit or something like that. You know, it's hard to get that

    509

    00:54:09,440 --> 00:54:15,520

    exposure. So now going into, let's get, let's get your least favorite moment from the comp first.

    510

    00:54:15,520 --> 00:54:22,240

    Uh, like I, you know, I mean the, the after competition feel like you feel like you could

    511

    00:54:22,240 --> 00:54:28,240

    have just done better if you read the beta correctly, stuff like that. Yeah. Um, you know,

    512

    00:54:28,240 --> 00:54:37,760

    because, you know, I, I basically placed last place. I was, I was placed 98, I think 97. I

    513

    00:54:37,760 --> 00:54:46,080

    don't remember, but I mean, that, that was like already beyond me, but, um, I guess at the moment

    514

    00:54:46,080 --> 00:54:52,800

    it felt pretty bad. Yeah. How did you feel about your performance compared to like yourself?

    515

    00:54:53,440 --> 00:54:58,720

    I felt like it did pretty well. Like I was, I think it came down to like reading data properly

    516

    00:54:58,720 --> 00:55:05,120

    and adjusting data properly. And then, um, I don't know, I think I did pretty well. I, I almost saw

    517

    00:55:05,120 --> 00:55:13,280

    the zone three of the two, three or three of the problems. I think two, two of the problems. Um,

    518

    00:55:13,280 --> 00:55:19,120

    I was hoping there's only the, the, the two slam problem. Those were the two really close

    519

    00:55:19,120 --> 00:55:25,600

    ones where I thought I was going to snag the zone and maybe top it. But, um, I ended up reading the

    520

    00:55:25,600 --> 00:55:32,720

    beta completely wrong because I went back, watched my video and then watched how like, I don't know,

    521

    00:55:32,720 --> 00:55:38,880

    but the people who have been posting the sends on Instagram and watching their beta, I was like,

    522

    00:55:38,880 --> 00:55:44,960

    man, I knew I did it slightly wrong, but it was, cause a lot of the boulders, they're like,

    523

    00:55:45,680 --> 00:55:50,320

    they kept the hand on while I was trying to coordinate, do a coordination, coordination

    524

    00:55:50,320 --> 00:55:54,160

    dynamo on a slab when it wasn't really intended, but you could do it that way. It just definitely

    525

    00:55:54,160 --> 00:56:01,840

    makes it harder. Um, some of them kept the hand on. Um, I was doing a shuffle on one of the other

    526

    00:56:01,840 --> 00:56:06,640

    slabs where I kind of got this like a little scar on my face. Cause I, okay. Yeah, I saw that.

    527

    00:56:06,640 --> 00:56:12,160

    A lot of, so if you, like a lot of the athletes that, like even the females,

    528

    00:56:13,120 --> 00:56:18,400

    they're like, always has something on her face. Yeah. Well, like everyone, like all like, you know,

    529

    00:56:18,400 --> 00:56:26,240

    who like fought on slab. Yeah. You even like, uh, like Jesse pills had, like, had the, had the cut,

    530

    00:56:26,240 --> 00:56:32,880

    uh, scuff on her face and like a bunch of the, like, I think, uh, John Wan Chun's little brother,

    531

    00:56:32,880 --> 00:56:37,840

    for everything, but yeah, he, it was his debut too. And he had scuff on his face. Like I was like,

    532

    00:56:37,840 --> 00:56:43,840

    oh, and the Cyprus team guy, him and I were talking about it. Everyone has the little scar on their

    533

    00:56:43,840 --> 00:56:49,440

    face. Yeah. And I was like, oh yeah, I was fighting hard on that slab because I was trying to shuffle

    534

    00:56:49,440 --> 00:56:55,200

    and I kept scratching my face on it, but there was a static beta to it. I didn't think of doing

    535

    00:56:55,200 --> 00:57:03,920

    that. So it's like, I think reflecting off of it, I think the least favorite part is like me just

    536

    00:57:03,920 --> 00:57:09,440

    not reading the data. Preferably. So then favorite part, I mean, sitting in the athletes box, sitting

    537

    00:57:09,440 --> 00:57:15,760

    at the throw off with all the, with all the other world cup athletes, kind of nice, like watching

    538

    00:57:15,760 --> 00:57:20,960

    other, like watching the semis, watching the finals, stuff like that. And then there's the

    539

    00:57:20,960 --> 00:57:28,800

    the after party. Oh yeah. And the after party. Yeah. Give me the dirt there. Uh, I mean, it was,

    540

    00:57:28,800 --> 00:57:35,520

    it was fun. Like I got to know, uh, I got to know better, like the, some of the other, the

    541

    00:57:36,240 --> 00:57:42,880

    Thailand guy, I mean, yeah, the guy from Thailand, um, some of the Australian team too, that I didn't

    542

    00:57:42,880 --> 00:57:48,000

    really get, make friends with back in the ocean, ocean qualifiers, got to hang out, hang out with

    543

    00:57:48,000 --> 00:57:55,600

    them. Um, met some fans of the Australian team, hung out with, hung out with me. And then like,

    544

    00:57:57,120 --> 00:58:01,280

    you know, everyone was drinking, everyone was having a nice time. And then sharing the dance

    545

    00:58:01,280 --> 00:58:06,080

    floor with everyone else was pretty interesting because I have a background in dancing. So then.

    546

    00:58:06,800 --> 00:58:10,240

    So you could beat them in some time. I don't know. I mean, I did like,

    547

    00:58:10,800 --> 00:58:15,440

    I used to like, cause I used to compete in break dancing. And so then I, when I told

    548

    00:58:15,440 --> 00:58:20,000

    some of the Australian guys that I did do that, they're like, Oh, you better, I'm not, I'm not

    549

    00:58:20,000 --> 00:58:23,760

    leaving the dance floor unless you bust a move. And so I mean, I did that. It was kind of nice.

    550

    00:58:23,760 --> 00:58:29,440

    There was like different dance circles going on. And so it was kind of cool. And then everyone

    551

    00:58:29,440 --> 00:58:35,120

    were just like getting to know each other. Got to see like, I don't know, like Simon Lorenzi

    552

    00:58:35,120 --> 00:58:43,440

    dancing on the dance floor. Oh, like all the big names like Amish, uh, animal, um,

    553

    00:58:43,440 --> 00:58:48,720

    uh, who else is there? I can't remember. Um, oh, like a bunch of the Austrian team.

    554

    00:58:49,440 --> 00:58:53,440

    I think, yeah, a bunch of the German team and stuff like that were there.

    555

    00:58:54,000 --> 00:58:56,560

    So it was kind of cool to share the best moves.

    556

    00:58:58,640 --> 00:59:01,360

    Okay. Fair.

    557

    00:59:02,640 --> 00:59:03,360

    Yeah.

    558

    00:59:04,400 --> 00:59:08,240

    I don't know. I mean, I was the only one that did some break dance moves on the floor,

    559

    00:59:08,240 --> 00:59:10,000

    but everyone had some good moves.

    560

    00:59:10,000 --> 00:59:15,920

    Yeah. Okay. I don't know how to, I don't know how to go deeper into that, but yeah,

    561

    00:59:15,920 --> 00:59:21,520

    that was kind of, it was fun. I guess that was the most memorable cause I got the kind of,

    562

    00:59:21,520 --> 00:59:26,640

    it's a different experience, especially in that setting when everyone's so focused

    563

    00:59:26,640 --> 00:59:32,400

    and during the, during the competition, when everyone can just like relax during,

    564

    00:59:32,400 --> 00:59:38,240

    you know, the after party. It's kind of nice. Okay. And then the, the, the, the, the, the,

    565

    00:59:38,240 --> 00:59:42,800

    it's kind of nice. Okay. And, um, favorite moment during the comp.

    566

    00:59:43,360 --> 00:59:54,800

    I mean, being there, being, like being, knowing, like go do going through every single boulder,

    567

    00:59:57,600 --> 01:00:03,840

    was great. And then knowing that I basically gave it my all was like,

    568

    01:00:03,840 --> 01:00:08,880

    that's like the most memorable and my most favorite. Um, I mean, being there is already

    569

    01:00:08,880 --> 01:00:14,800

    like an honor. Yeah. So it's, I mean, yeah, I don't know what else to say.

    570

    01:00:14,800 --> 01:00:22,480

    Yeah, that's my favorite part. Like being able to try those boulders and have a crowd watch is nice.

    571

    01:00:22,720 --> 01:00:29,920

    And then having a friend in the crowd and the Australian team coaches cheer on, you know,

    572

    01:00:29,920 --> 01:00:35,680

    at least having someone cheering your name during, during the comp is also nice too. Yeah.

    573

    01:00:35,680 --> 01:00:40,640

    I mean, it's, it feels, it feels in the moment kind of thing. It's hard to describe.

    574

    01:00:41,280 --> 01:00:44,400

    Yeah. It's like a, I made it here moment.

    575

    01:00:44,400 --> 01:00:50,000

    Yeah. It's like, I made it here moment, you know, like I'm like, it shows that like, you know,

    576

    01:00:50,000 --> 01:00:56,240

    hard work does pay off, you know, and it, it encourages you to try harder, you know, and,

    577

    01:00:56,240 --> 01:01:00,640

    and, you know, and that's what I wanted to gain from the experience. Yeah.

    578

    01:01:01,840 --> 01:01:06,400

    I wish I could have that moment. It's, I mean, it's, it's, it's hard. I mean,

    579

    01:01:06,400 --> 01:01:12,720

    a lot of people are like, and it's, it's, that's the, that's the crazy thing too, because going,

    580

    01:01:13,280 --> 01:01:20,720

    be living here in San Diego and meeting people who are like way stronger than me or like,

    581

    01:01:20,720 --> 01:01:25,440

    you know, climbing with people who are way stronger than me, you know, and I mean, they sometimes,

    582

    01:01:25,440 --> 01:01:30,960

    you know, some people just choose not to compete and, you know, like to just climb outside, but

    583

    01:01:30,960 --> 01:01:39,120

    like, it's crazy to think that I myself is representing Guam and, you know, and I, you know,

    584

    01:01:39,120 --> 01:01:45,600

    and climbing with people who are as strong as I am, or like stronger. And it's, it's crazy to think

    585

    01:01:45,600 --> 01:01:52,960

    that, that like, not everyone gets that opportunity. And I feel, I feel very honored and I don't know if

    586

    01:01:52,960 --> 01:01:58,480

    I could say, would say lucky, but like, you know, like it kind of, it's, it's, it's just crazy to

    587

    01:01:58,480 --> 01:02:07,360

    think about, like the timing of it all too, like, you know, I just like having, like seeing Guam

    588

    01:02:08,080 --> 01:02:13,600

    slowly building up to me, like, you know, being part of the circuit with this. Great.

    589

    01:02:13,600 --> 01:02:18,480

    Yeah. I guess, do you ever feel kind of like weird that you,

    590

    01:02:18,480 --> 01:02:24,880

    I don't know, like that you're able to like be on the world cup circuit, even though when you climb

    591

    01:02:24,880 --> 01:02:32,080

    here, sometimes you like lose the comps. I don't know how to phrase that any better. You know what

    592

    01:02:32,080 --> 01:02:38,480

    I mean. I know what you mean. And it definitely feels odd. But I mean,

    593

    01:02:40,080 --> 01:02:43,920

    Take what you can get, I guess. Yeah, take what you can get, but like you take every opportunity

    594

    01:02:43,920 --> 01:02:52,320

    that you can, if you have it available to you, because, you know, you have nothing to lose

    595

    01:02:52,320 --> 01:03:00,880

    realistically. Like you're, you're, you're going in for the experience to become a better climber,

    596

    01:03:00,880 --> 01:03:08,160

    right? And, and to build it up for Guam. And to build it up. And, you know,

    597

    01:03:08,160 --> 01:03:14,560

    I mean, like a lot of the guys here, a lot of my friends here are like, don't like think,

    598

    01:03:14,560 --> 01:03:19,600

    don't have the imposter syndrome, you know, don't think that you don't deserve you there,

    599

    01:03:19,600 --> 01:03:25,040

    because, hey, you're one of the strong, your climbers, one of the stronger climbers from Guam,

    600

    01:03:25,040 --> 01:03:31,600

    you know, they want you to represent Guam, you know, then, you know, all this stuff. And I'm like,

    601

    01:03:31,600 --> 01:03:36,080

    okay, yeah, it's nice to think of that, you know, even though, you know, there's definitely other

    602

    01:03:36,080 --> 01:03:42,480

    people that could be on the world circuit, but, you know, but then the, the pool within their

    603

    01:03:42,480 --> 01:03:48,880

    country or whatever, you know, is stacked. And, you know, it's, it's crazy. But I mean, like, you

    604

    01:03:48,880 --> 01:03:55,120

    know, Guam is still new to climbing. So, you know, you take every opportunity that you can get,

    605

    01:03:55,120 --> 01:04:00,720

    so that you can build it to be even stronger. You know, so I mean, sure, I have those thoughts in

    606

    01:04:00,720 --> 01:04:06,640

    my head, like, why am I even here? But I mean, like, it's for the greater good for, you know,

    607

    01:04:06,640 --> 01:04:12,880

    it's for something even bigger, like, think, I think it's there's a bigger picture to it. And I'm

    608

    01:04:12,880 --> 01:04:20,000

    like a small piece of it. Yeah. So, yeah. And I guess it's also like, you know, like, I think

    609

    01:04:20,000 --> 01:04:27,120

    and I'm like a small piece of it. Yeah. So, yeah. And I guess it's also like, sort of based on

    610

    01:04:28,080 --> 01:04:34,240

    the opportunities that you grew up with, because you didn't have climbing there. Yeah. And then,

    611

    01:04:34,240 --> 01:04:38,880

    obviously, like here in the US, it's already a lot more established. So, yeah, you've kind of always

    612

    01:04:38,880 --> 01:04:45,280

    had those opportunities. Yeah. And it's, it's sort of like makes me hungry for more climbing. Like,

    613

    01:04:45,280 --> 01:04:51,600

    it's like, it, I feel like it's, it's weird to say it like this, but it's like, it feels like it's

    614

    01:04:51,600 --> 01:05:00,880

    supplementing my, like, my drive to climb even harder. I used to think like, oh, V10 is impossible,

    615

    01:05:00,880 --> 01:05:05,280

    or like, you know, oh, yeah, you know, or I used to think that, you know, anything past like,

    616

    01:05:06,240 --> 01:05:12,000

    V10 is going to be so unreachable for me. And like, you know, recently, I like I've gotten so much

    617

    01:05:12,000 --> 01:05:18,720

    better, like I'm slowly reaching higher grades and stuff like that outside. And, you know, I'm slowly

    618

    01:05:18,720 --> 01:05:25,280

    like executing my moves in comp style stuff. And you know, it's like, there's no, you can visualize

    619

    01:05:25,280 --> 01:05:30,320

    the ceiling, but you know, you could still go past it, you know, and, and, and that's, that's my

    620

    01:05:30,320 --> 01:05:36,400

    thought process on that. If you can take the opportunity, you can break past your ceiling

    621

    01:05:36,400 --> 01:05:43,200

    that you're seeing that, you know, maybe you can be better. Okay. Yeah. That's a good statement.

    622

    01:05:43,200 --> 01:05:48,960

    Yeah. Okay. Do you want to talk about the Climbing Gems Chalk Bag that you received?

    623

    01:05:48,960 --> 01:05:58,560

    Oh yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So, so this is a chalk bag from Climbing Gems. The owner of Climbing Gems,

    624

    01:05:58,560 --> 01:06:07,920

    her name's Anne and she's from Australia. I'm, the Guam team met her during the Oceania Qualifiers.

    625

    01:06:07,920 --> 01:06:16,480

    And then, so that's kind of, that's where the friendship started. And so, yeah, so she, we've,

    626

    01:06:16,480 --> 01:06:23,200

    we followed each other on Instagram. We shared back and forth stuff like, oh, you know, like talk bag,

    627

    01:06:23,200 --> 01:06:29,200

    talk and like climbing talk and stuff like that. And then when I posted that I was heading towards

    628

    01:06:29,200 --> 01:06:35,120

    Innsbruck, she messaged me and it's like, ah, man, it would have been great to have someone,

    629

    01:06:36,080 --> 01:06:42,240

    you know, test out my chalk bucket. Cause she has the Paraclimber, I forgot the Paraclimber from the

    630

    01:06:42,240 --> 01:06:55,360

    great GV team. Oh yeah, Anita. Yeah. She sent her to test it out on the Paraclimbing Elite. And so

    631

    01:06:55,360 --> 01:07:01,600

    she was like, oh, I wish someone would test out my bouldering bag. Right. Okay. Or, you know,

    632

    01:07:01,600 --> 01:07:07,360

    the chalk bucket. And I was like, I can test it out, but I think it might be too late for you to

    633

    01:07:07,360 --> 01:07:13,040

    ship it. I'm literally on my flight to Innsbruck. And she's like, don't worry, I'll think about,

    634

    01:07:13,040 --> 01:07:22,160

    I'll figure something out. So she literally makes this while I'm on the flight. Whoa. Express shifts

    635

    01:07:22,160 --> 01:07:31,440

    it to my Airbnb in Innsbruck. And she was like, hopefully it gets to you on time. Cause you were

    636

    01:07:31,440 --> 01:07:36,160

    only there five days in advance. Yeah. I was like, wait, five days in advance. And she was like,

    637

    01:07:36,160 --> 01:07:40,560

    yeah, I was like, wait, five days, well, five, six days in advance. And I was like, oh, I don't

    638

    01:07:40,560 --> 01:07:47,040

    think it's going to make it. And so she sends it and literally the day before it got to the door.

    639

    01:07:47,760 --> 01:07:52,480

    And I was like, oh, it's meant to be. And so I get to test it out. It's really nice. I like the,

    640

    01:07:52,480 --> 01:07:57,840

    it's very different because I mean, a lot of companies do the magnetic enclosure,

    641

    01:07:58,640 --> 01:08:02,640

    but because it's still like a, I guess you could say prototype model.

    642

    01:08:02,640 --> 01:08:09,200

    I got to test it out and there's definitely things to change on it, but you know, that's part of the,

    643

    01:08:09,200 --> 01:08:15,200

    that was part of the conversation is that I was supposed to test it out and give her feedback,

    644

    01:08:15,200 --> 01:08:19,280

    you know, and stuff like that. And it was really nice because the material of the shirt that she

    645

    01:08:19,280 --> 01:08:26,080

    used, I mean, this is the logo, the brand, the logo of the brand. And the shirt is like

    646

    01:08:26,080 --> 01:08:32,000

    really high, it's like heavy duty. And a lot of people, I've been getting a lot of comments

    647

    01:08:33,040 --> 01:08:38,320

    on it of people wondering, is it Tyvek or not? I was like, no, it's a t-shirt.

    648

    01:08:38,320 --> 01:08:39,600

    What is Tyvek?

    649

    01:08:39,600 --> 01:08:43,520

    Tyvek is the fabric you underlay your tent with.

    650

    01:08:43,520 --> 01:08:44,560

    Oh yeah, yeah, okay.

    651

    01:08:44,560 --> 01:08:51,360

    Yeah. Yeah. And so I was like, no, no, no, it's a t-shirt. So that, I mean, like at least the fabric

    652

    01:08:51,360 --> 01:08:57,440

    that she uses for her t-shirts are very high quality. And then the magnetic enclosure is

    653

    01:08:57,440 --> 01:09:01,920

    pretty strong, not too strong that you can't, it's a hard time opening it.

    654

    01:09:02,800 --> 01:09:05,600

    Yeah. Maybe after a long session.

    655

    01:09:05,600 --> 01:09:11,520

    Yeah, I mean, after a long session, but at least like most of the time, like when I throw my bag

    656

    01:09:11,520 --> 01:09:16,480

    down and it closes, it's kind of nice, especially if you're worried about chalk falling out. It has

    657

    01:09:16,480 --> 01:09:22,240

    like this nice little feature of the jeans at the bottom. She ran out of t-shirt materials, so then

    658

    01:09:22,240 --> 01:09:29,760

    she used like an old denim. And I guess that's also another great thing about it is she uses

    659

    01:09:29,760 --> 01:09:41,200

    recycled, you know, recycled fabric, basically stuff like old t-shirts, old pants. Or like if you

    660

    01:09:41,200 --> 01:09:48,320

    have a worn out team t-shirt, she can also, you know, do that. It's sort of like a memento

    661

    01:09:48,320 --> 01:09:54,080

    kind of thing if you want to have some sentimental value in chocolate. And so she does that. She does

    662

    01:09:54,080 --> 01:09:59,840

    like the little custom orders and stuff like that. And I think she has a website, but if you message

    663

    01:09:59,840 --> 01:10:08,320

    her on her Instagram, she'll lead you in the right direction to kind of get, get the right

    664

    01:10:08,320 --> 01:10:14,320

    to maybe eventually get one of these. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I will link her Instagram in the description

    665

    01:10:14,320 --> 01:10:22,320

    so people can check that out. So moving on to the Guam team, a lot of people don't know about,

    666

    01:10:23,200 --> 01:10:29,600

    watch about Guam, like what's the vibe there? Where is it? What the climbing scene is like there?

    667

    01:10:29,600 --> 01:10:39,680

    Yeah. I mean, so Guam is in the Oceania region, basically. It is, I would say, a four and a half

    668

    01:10:39,680 --> 01:10:46,080

    hour flight in Japan. So if you're looking at the world map, if you're looking at Japan and you're

    669

    01:10:46,080 --> 01:10:53,840

    looking at the Philippines, you basically draw a line from Japan south, south, southeast, and then

    670

    01:10:53,840 --> 01:11:01,040

    directly east of the Philippines. It's, it's a small island. It's about 15 miles wide, 32 north to

    671

    01:11:01,040 --> 01:11:06,560

    south. Oh, it's pretty small. Wow. Yeah. It's pretty small. Speed limit is like 35 miles per hour.

    672

    01:11:06,560 --> 01:11:10,880

    Okay. So like if you wanted to do like around the island trip, you could do it in a day.

    673

    01:11:10,880 --> 01:11:16,960

    Oh yeah. It's a US territory. So it does do miles. Yes. Yes. It's a US territory. So yeah. And a lot

    674

    01:11:16,960 --> 01:11:23,760

    of people mistake that, that, you know, when we, a lot of people that move from Guam to the United

    675

    01:11:23,760 --> 01:11:29,200

    States, mainland, or like to other countries, a lot of them, a lot of us are complimented about our

    676

    01:11:29,200 --> 01:11:34,240

    English. Oh, okay. Your English is very well. And I was like, nah, I mean, English is our first

    677

    01:11:34,240 --> 01:11:42,320

    language. The local language though, and the local people are known as Chamorro. So, so we're like,

    678

    01:11:42,320 --> 01:11:48,960

    you know, the Chamorro people and it's, it's, it's an Austronesian descent, I guess you could say.

    679

    01:11:48,960 --> 01:11:55,920

    It, we, we like, like most of the Oceania region, it's like Austronesian, Polynesian kind of,

    680

    01:11:56,640 --> 01:12:02,400

    the set. So then mostly I believe it, if I remember correctly, sorry if I'm wrong,

    681

    01:12:03,200 --> 01:12:07,680

    I believe it. I remember learning in my, when I was in college in Guam, I remember

    682

    01:12:07,680 --> 01:12:13,680

    in my Guam history class, it was Austronesia. So we're in the Pacific, we're US territory.

    683

    01:12:14,720 --> 01:12:19,280

    You know, we have a naval base, we have an air force base. So we're basically a tactical

    684

    01:12:20,320 --> 01:12:25,280

    region. We're a tactical island, I guess. I mean, it was, yeah. And that's, that's how we gain US

    685

    01:12:25,280 --> 01:12:29,920

    citizenship. And, you know, there's a lot of political aspects to it that I don't really want

    686

    01:12:29,920 --> 01:12:35,840

    to go into. But I mean, yeah, Guam, so there's a lot of political aspects to it. So I think

    687

    01:12:35,840 --> 01:12:49,280

    that's where Guam is located. It's a nice island, very high tourist scene. And used to have a lot of

    688

    01:12:49,280 --> 01:12:57,040

    Japanese tourists recently been getting a lot of Korean tourists, stuff like that, from other

    689

    01:12:57,040 --> 01:13:03,280

    Asian countries come visit Guam for like vacation. It's like the Hawaii of Asia, sort of.

    690

    01:13:03,280 --> 01:13:04,480

    Oh, okay.

    691

    01:13:04,480 --> 01:13:10,480

    Sort of. I guess you could say it like that. Yeah. And then like the climbing community started

    692

    01:13:10,480 --> 01:13:15,840

    recent, the climbing community has been there for a bit. But it's very, very hush hush down low a

    693

    01:13:15,840 --> 01:13:22,560

    little bit for a while. And then when they opened up the commercial gym, it blew up.

    694

    01:13:23,520 --> 01:13:26,160

    So is there like an outdoor climbing scene too?

    695

    01:13:26,160 --> 01:13:33,520

    Oh, yeah. So that's how the old climbing community was. It was word of mouth. And it was like,

    696

    01:13:33,520 --> 01:13:39,840

    if people wanted to climb outdoors. But there's not a lot of boulders and it's a lot of

    697

    01:13:40,640 --> 01:13:47,600

    lean roots. But there's a lot of established lead roots. And sometimes even like cave roots,

    698

    01:13:47,600 --> 01:13:53,280

    like you go into a cave and you climb. It's a little weird, but a lot of the,

    699

    01:13:53,840 --> 01:13:57,680

    we're slowly developing. We're hoping to develop eventually.

    700

    01:13:57,680 --> 01:14:06,640

    There are the t-nuts, the t-nuts, the anchors that were used in the established roots were all steel.

    701

    01:14:06,640 --> 01:14:09,040

    So all they're, they're all rusted out.

    702

    01:14:09,040 --> 01:14:11,040

    Oh, what do people usually use?

    703

    01:14:11,040 --> 01:14:16,320

    No, they're normally it's steel, but if you're by the ocean and it's very salty,

    704

    01:14:16,320 --> 01:14:17,200

    Oh, gotcha.

    705

    01:14:17,200 --> 01:14:24,320

    you want to use titanium bolts and titanium gear. So then it doesn't wear out in a corrosive

    706

    01:14:24,320 --> 01:14:38,320

    environment. So then the Guam coach and some other people are planning, slowly planning on

    707

    01:14:38,320 --> 01:14:46,560

    re-establishing those roots and putting up new ones. It's just finding the money to buy all of

    708

    01:14:46,560 --> 01:14:55,840

    the titanium bolts and then finding the time to go and put those roots up. And which is why

    709

    01:14:55,840 --> 01:15:01,600

    like the Guam coach is always like, we need you here. We need you here. We need someone to start

    710

    01:15:01,600 --> 01:15:06,640

    FA-ing everything. And I was like, ah, I mean, I could, but it's all weed. I have a boulder.

    711

    01:15:06,640 --> 01:15:13,600

    I mean, and we do have some boulders, but a lot of them are like the top outs are like,

    712

    01:15:13,600 --> 01:15:21,200

    have heavy shrubs. It has like trees on top of the boulders, mosques and stuff like that.

    713

    01:15:21,200 --> 01:15:27,680

    And, and, oh, and for people who are curious, the rock type is limestone. It's like the very sharp,

    714

    01:15:28,960 --> 01:15:34,160

    sharp limestone. Yeah. People who like to scramble. Some people like to scramble on top of the

    715

    01:15:34,160 --> 01:15:40,160

    limestone hillsides by the, by the ocean. And a lot of them usually come back down.

    716

    01:15:40,160 --> 01:15:44,800

    From those heights with a lot of cuts on their legs because it's very sharp. And like,

    717

    01:15:45,520 --> 01:15:50,320

    I feel like you can slice your hand off some of the limestone. I don't know what to compare it

    718

    01:15:50,320 --> 01:15:56,960

    to though, cause it's, it's basically coral limestone. I don't know if it's similar to

    719

    01:15:59,040 --> 01:16:03,600

    like, like Spanish limestone. I'm not sure. I mean, you don't,

    720

    01:16:03,600 --> 01:16:06,400

    I don't even know what limestone is.

    721

    01:16:06,400 --> 01:16:10,640

    Maybe your disperse could probably, your disperse could probably give some insight on that.

    722

    01:16:12,160 --> 01:16:18,560

    Yeah. I mean, like the, there's, there's slowly establishing some, there's like a lot of the

    723

    01:16:18,560 --> 01:16:25,680

    boulders that they have currently are like, maybe I think the max grade that they have right now is

    724

    01:16:25,680 --> 01:16:31,520

    like, I can't remember, but then Mike, the coach there was like saying that there's a potential

    725

    01:16:31,520 --> 01:16:37,040

    V10 and we don't know who can FA it. And they're asking me to do it. But whenever I'm there,

    726

    01:16:37,040 --> 01:16:43,440

    I'm working and I usually work California time. So then it's, so I'm like very tired by the time

    727

    01:16:44,640 --> 01:16:50,240

    they want me to, they want to go outside and, but maybe the next time around when I go back home,

    728

    01:16:50,240 --> 01:16:54,480

    I think try and FA it. We'll see. We'll see. Try it. Yeah.

    729

    01:16:54,480 --> 01:17:00,640

    Okay. So, so I'm like, I'm like, I'm like, I'm like, I'm like, I'm like, I'm like, I'm like,

    730

    01:17:00,640 --> 01:17:06,160

    yeah. So then, well, maybe Guam can just be like a, a very comp focused.

    731

    01:17:06,800 --> 01:17:12,880

    Yeah. I mean that, yeah, I think they started out that way because actually a fun fact for the,

    732

    01:17:14,080 --> 01:17:25,760

    from the, of the team is that the, so me go living here in SD and then one of the female climbers

    733

    01:17:25,760 --> 01:17:30,720

    used to live in the Bay area and climb over there. So she's like sort of our lead specialist.

    734

    01:17:30,720 --> 01:17:33,760

    Oh cool. Yeah. She mainly likes to climb lead and she's,

    735

    01:17:33,760 --> 01:17:37,920

    we watched her during the Oceania qualifiers and I was like, she's way better than me at lead.

    736

    01:17:37,920 --> 01:17:43,680

    Okay. Yeah. She's crazy strong at lead, but yeah, but, and you know, and so she's like very strong

    737

    01:17:43,680 --> 01:17:50,720

    at lead. So she's like our female lead specialist. And so she can, she trains the other people on the

    738

    01:17:50,720 --> 01:17:58,880

    team on lead and, and in the comp style stuff, our coach and the Guam team, he's actually from

    739

    01:17:58,880 --> 01:18:04,240

    Santa Barbara and he knows a lot of my friends from college. So it's, it's, it's pretty small world

    740

    01:18:05,680 --> 01:18:10,960

    in terms of the climbing world. Cause it's like when I first met the team or like when I first

    741

    01:18:10,960 --> 01:18:19,280

    met the crew back home, I was like, oh, I was like, I didn't even know that you guys were here.

    742

    01:18:19,280 --> 01:18:22,880

    Yeah. I wish I knew that before the last time I was here. So that I kind of like

    743

    01:18:22,880 --> 01:18:26,640

    met you guys. Yeah. Yeah. And so like, that's like nice little fun fact that

    744

    01:18:27,200 --> 01:18:32,960

    some, so there's some people that have climbed here and brought, you know, the style, like the

    745

    01:18:32,960 --> 01:18:38,800

    comp style too. Cause our head coach likes comp style. Nice. Yeah. At least they have that.

    746

    01:18:38,800 --> 01:18:45,120

    Yeah. That's good. Okay. And you mentioned that some people on the team are still really new.

    747

    01:18:45,120 --> 01:18:54,320

    Yeah. I would say besides the coach, the lead specialist, Vicki, who is our female lead specialist

    748

    01:18:55,200 --> 01:19:04,480

    and then me, everyone else has been climbing for less than a year. That's crazy. I think there's

    749

    01:19:04,480 --> 01:19:09,280

    some people that may have like picked up climbing a little bit earlier before it opened up. Cause

    750

    01:19:09,280 --> 01:19:13,040

    we have, Oh yeah. Cause the gym is there. Oh actually no, we have one more guy. He's like

    751

    01:19:13,040 --> 01:19:19,520

    the oldest guy in our team. He used to live here in San Diego. Oh wow. Yeah. Wow. Is this like the

    752

    01:19:19,520 --> 01:19:28,080

    spot? Well, cause he's a, he's a, he's like a, I think he works for the coast guard, but he does

    753

    01:19:28,080 --> 01:19:34,240

    a lot. He's actually, so one of the guys on our team was the oldest on our team. He competes in

    754

    01:19:34,240 --> 01:19:41,600

    Ninja warrior. Oh yeah. And he actually has a Ninja warrior gym back home. Oh fun. Yeah. And so

    755

    01:19:41,600 --> 01:19:48,080

    I remember seeing him here. He used to, I think he used to climb at the old Grotto G1.

    756

    01:19:48,800 --> 01:19:55,120

    Well, I just the original Grotto, not G1. And so that's when I first saw him and I saw him

    757

    01:19:55,120 --> 01:20:00,880

    wearing a long shirt and that was, this was like back in like 2019. And so, you know, and he moved

    758

    01:20:00,880 --> 01:20:07,040

    back and I noticed, and then he opened up in Georgia and stuff like that. And so there's,

    759

    01:20:07,040 --> 01:20:12,800

    so he's like, he's been climbing for a bit. And then there's another guy on our team, Mike. He,

    760

    01:20:14,400 --> 01:20:22,000

    uh, he lived in Japan for like college, I think for, for school a little bit for maybe like a year

    761

    01:20:22,000 --> 01:20:28,000

    and he picked up climbing there. And so there's a handful of us that have been climbing for maybe

    762

    01:20:28,000 --> 01:20:33,840

    a little bit more than a year, me being six years and then maybe Vicky being like four or five years

    763

    01:20:33,840 --> 01:20:41,440

    also. And then our head coach Noah, he's been climbing just as maybe longer than me. And then

    764

    01:20:41,440 --> 01:20:47,360

    everyone else is less than eight when the gym opened. Yeah. Yeah. So it's crazy. And then, but

    765

    01:20:48,560 --> 01:20:57,920

    a lot of the, like, I've noticed a lot of the newer climbers that are coming from Guam, they pick it

    766

    01:20:57,920 --> 01:21:04,960

    up very easily. It's, it's crazy to see it. Like a lot of the newer guys, they're just like,

    767

    01:21:06,000 --> 01:21:11,840

    very curious, like comp kids. And they're, well, they're young, but not like not comp kid,

    768

    01:21:11,840 --> 01:21:17,120

    but not, not youth young, but they're very curious and they're just getting really, really good,

    769

    01:21:17,120 --> 01:21:22,880

    really fast. So hopefully we'll get to see something happen in the next few years. Yeah. Uh,

    770

    01:21:22,880 --> 01:21:31,680

    in terms of like excelling and comp. Hopefully, well, we'll see. Uh, I have high hopes, but yeah.

    771

    01:21:31,680 --> 01:21:37,120

    And I mean, it'll take some time. It'll take time, but we need that. The thing is that we need that

    772

    01:21:37,120 --> 01:21:44,080

    exposure. And so a lot of us are going out of the way and like, you know, going to comps or like,

    773

    01:21:44,800 --> 01:21:50,000

    maybe going to a comp and not competing, but just like observe, you know, or going to other gyms

    774

    01:21:50,000 --> 01:21:55,360

    outside the Guam gym where maybe the setting is a little bit different and they can train a little

    775

    01:21:55,360 --> 01:22:00,880

    bit harder. Yeah. And it helps to have someone to look up to. So yeah, you gotta get out there.

    776

    01:22:00,880 --> 01:22:06,800

    Yeah. I mean, a lot of them asked me for advice. Uh, like, I mean, I'll bounce off Noah, the coach,

    777

    01:22:06,800 --> 01:22:12,240

    and it's just like, you know, it's at least that's why he's like, we need you here so that they have

    778

    01:22:12,240 --> 01:22:16,960

    someone to bounce off of usually, but not like occasionally when you messaging us and stuff like

    779

    01:22:16,960 --> 01:22:23,760

    that. Yeah. I mean, like it's, it's sometimes I feel like I have like, uh, FOMO where it's like,

    780

    01:22:23,760 --> 01:22:27,680

    ah, I'm missing out so much. And it's like, this is all experienced with the team, but I mean, like

    781

    01:22:28,240 --> 01:22:33,120

    sometimes like the sacrifice of living out here and like, well, also working as an engineer,

    782

    01:22:33,120 --> 01:22:38,960

    but also training out here, getting experience here and trying to bring it back. It's, it's,

    783

    01:22:38,960 --> 01:22:44,720

    it's all worth it in the end. Yeah. Oh, and a little piece of, I guess, I mean, I'm going off

    784

    01:22:44,720 --> 01:22:52,320

    a tangent, a little piece of climbing history of Guam. Uh, we heard this from the vice president

    785

    01:22:52,320 --> 01:22:59,680

    of the, of IFSC. I think the vice president of IFSC is from Japan. I think so. I could be wrong,

    786

    01:22:59,680 --> 01:23:06,720

    but well, we met him at the ocean and qualifiers, but he told us that Akio Noguchi started climbing

    787

    01:23:06,720 --> 01:23:13,200

    because she visited Guam. What? Yeah. Well, cause she, uh, yeah, that's the best little piece of

    788

    01:23:13,200 --> 01:23:22,720

    history. Um, he, like when she was a kid, she, her and her family visited Guam. She climbed the tree.

    789

    01:23:23,440 --> 01:23:28,560

    Oh, okay. She climbed like a coconut tree, got obsessed with climbing and picked up climbing,

    790

    01:23:28,560 --> 01:23:32,160

    I guess. I guess that's how the story went. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard.

    791

    01:23:32,800 --> 01:23:39,360

    So that's a little climbing history from Guam. Yeah. I don't know how long ago that was when

    792

    01:23:39,360 --> 01:23:44,640

    Akio Noguchi was a little kid. Okay. So she didn't get on any of like the actual

    793

    01:23:44,640 --> 01:23:50,080

    limestone icons. Yeah. I don't know, but she, they said that she was climbing a coconut tree and she

    794

    01:23:50,080 --> 01:23:54,960

    was obsessed with climbing. That's good to know. And I think that was the last question I had.

    795

    01:23:54,960 --> 01:24:00,480

    So we'll just move on to the couple of discord questions that we got. Um, what made you decide

    796

    01:24:00,480 --> 01:24:07,360

    to take part in world cups? Um, if you're an average climber, is there anything in it other

    797

    01:24:07,360 --> 01:24:14,640

    than the experience? I imagine it's a costly affair. Yeah. I mean, I mean, not just, I mean,

    798

    01:24:14,640 --> 01:24:21,680

    sure. It's for the experience, but it's, it's putting your foot through the door. Like you,

    799

    01:24:21,680 --> 01:24:28,960

    basically you're, you're, I know, like I'm stepping into like a domain of like bleak climbers and like,

    800

    01:24:28,960 --> 01:24:39,840

    I know I'm not at that level, but just that alone will help expose, um, a lot. I mean, there's,

    801

    01:24:40,480 --> 01:24:45,440

    I mean, I don't know the political aspect to it, but it's like, the more exposure you get,

    802

    01:24:46,160 --> 01:24:52,320

    the more the, whatever organization is in charge of funding all these sporting,

    803

    01:24:52,320 --> 01:24:59,600

    uh, funding these athletes, you know, you want that exposure, even though you know,

    804

    01:25:00,160 --> 01:25:08,800

    where you're standing is compared to the rest of the circuit, because it shows to whatever head

    805

    01:25:08,800 --> 01:25:16,080

    organization that, um, you know, we have, we're putting our foot through the door. We're getting

    806

    01:25:16,080 --> 01:25:23,120

    that experience, you know, it's, and then it starts building, building up. Cause I mean, you know,

    807

    01:25:23,840 --> 01:25:30,640

    there's a history of athletes not being paid enough, you know, um, and then it's not in,

    808

    01:25:30,640 --> 01:25:38,240

    not just in climbing, you know, like looking into the Olympics right now, right? Women's rugby hasn't

    809

    01:25:38,240 --> 01:25:46,160

    been well known, but because of the Olympics and them winning bronze, you know, you never know the

    810

    01:25:46,160 --> 01:25:52,000

    outcome, you know, you, I could just be, have, I could be an average, I could be having a good day

    811

    01:25:52,000 --> 01:25:58,640

    that day and I could just maybe go from place 98 to like halfway through this halfway through the

    812

    01:25:58,640 --> 01:26:06,400

    state, you know, that big step is, is huge, you know, compared like sure, like I can be average,

    813

    01:26:06,400 --> 01:26:14,160

    but compared to when you see that gain in experience, people will catch eye to that. You

    814

    01:26:14,160 --> 01:26:20,320

    know, people are going to notice that it may not be to the normal person. It could be to like an

    815

    01:26:20,320 --> 01:26:28,880

    organization that pays attention to the climbing, to, to whatever sport that you have, um, uh, you

    816

    01:26:28,880 --> 01:26:34,160

    know, representing whatever country you have. And so then it kind of helps build and it goes back to

    817

    01:26:34,160 --> 01:26:42,160

    building the community and building the sport back home is because, you know, if we can somehow

    818

    01:26:43,120 --> 01:26:51,040

    catch on the eyes of more people, either from the island of Guam or people who pay attention to

    819

    01:26:51,040 --> 01:26:59,280

    sports, then we can somehow get funding and get better programs for the youth team. And then maybe

    820

    01:26:59,280 --> 01:27:04,880

    the youth team and then maybe we can build a stronger team, you know, that that's, and that's

    821

    01:27:04,880 --> 01:27:12,720

    my perspective on it. Um, and, you know, and I'm using this opportunity to also just grow. I mean,

    822

    01:27:13,440 --> 01:27:17,760

    I don't know, maybe I will eventually become stronger and maybe climb better at these both.

    823

    01:27:19,360 --> 01:27:25,920

    Um, we'll see eventually in the next four, four years, if I still continue competing, but at

    824

    01:27:25,920 --> 01:27:33,200

    least there's some kind of foundation that the, that the team back home can build on, you know,

    825

    01:27:33,200 --> 01:27:38,560

    and there's the saying that the, that the team likes to say, there's the motto of the gym,

    826

    01:27:38,560 --> 01:27:44,720

    which is from the ground up. Oh, okay. Yeah. That's the, that's the, that's the, that's like

    827

    01:27:44,720 --> 01:27:51,680

    the motto of our gym is from the ground up because, you know, we start from nothing and we're just

    828

    01:27:51,680 --> 01:27:57,120

    going to build up from there. And you know, when you build something coming from an engineer that

    829

    01:27:57,120 --> 01:28:03,600

    works on structures, you want to build the strong foundation, you know, the, you know, you may not

    830

    01:28:03,600 --> 01:28:09,040

    have the strongest climbers in that foundation, but at least they're laying the lines, they're laying

    831

    01:28:09,840 --> 01:28:17,520

    the, you know, the re the reinforcement and all that stuff to help build the team for future

    832

    01:28:17,520 --> 01:28:22,160

    generations. Yeah. I mean, certainly if I were you, I would take every opportunity. Yeah. Cause

    833

    01:28:22,160 --> 01:28:27,920

    it's just, it's just cool. Yeah. And it's really cool. I mean, I've definitely like second guessed

    834

    01:28:27,920 --> 01:28:32,800

    it when they first made the team. I was like, Oh my God, it's not, it's a lot of money for traveling.

    835

    01:28:33,520 --> 01:28:39,920

    I'm going to have to dip into my savings a little bit. You know, I have to, you know, I mean, I,

    836

    01:28:39,920 --> 01:28:46,720

    I mean, sure. I, I mean, I, to make things fair, I also tried out for the team. I had to fly back

    837

    01:28:46,720 --> 01:28:53,600

    home and that's a lot of money to fly back home. Yeah. It's pretty far. And so I, I definitely

    838

    01:28:53,600 --> 01:29:00,960

    second guessed it. I talked to my friends at the gym, my friends from college who also climb and,

    839

    01:29:00,960 --> 01:29:08,320

    you know, and they were like, yeah, I mean, what's there to lose other than money, other than, you

    840

    01:29:08,320 --> 01:29:16,160

    know, spending the money, but at least you're doing something for the future of climbing in Guam. And

    841

    01:29:16,160 --> 01:29:23,360

    I was like, yeah, I mean, that's, and I, and that's at least like one of my climbing goals is to,

    842

    01:29:24,480 --> 01:29:30,560

    it's always been one of my climbing goals. Once I started climbing was to build the community. Like

    843

    01:29:30,560 --> 01:29:37,040

    I mentioned earlier, it was to build a community in Guam. And you know, since there's already a gym,

    844

    01:29:37,040 --> 01:29:42,560

    maybe I can open a training center, you know, that's, you know, that caters to the team.

    845

    01:29:42,560 --> 01:29:49,200

    Yeah. I think that makes sense. I mean, to me at least, because I've also obviously spent a lot of

    846

    01:29:49,200 --> 01:29:55,840

    time and money getting involved in this climbing scene, either through like competitions or like

    847

    01:29:55,840 --> 01:30:03,760

    going to see, just like see the world cups. Yeah. Yeah. So yeah, I mean, it's definitely an investment

    848

    01:30:03,760 --> 01:30:11,760

    and investment, a personal investment to do all this stuff. But you know, sometimes you kind of

    849

    01:30:11,760 --> 01:30:16,960

    look at the big picture and sometimes you just kind of, you look at the big picture and you just

    850

    01:30:16,960 --> 01:30:25,440

    kind of brush it over and say, it's for something bigger. Yeah. Okay. And so then what is your plan

    851

    01:30:25,440 --> 01:30:32,080

    for the future? Are you going to go to all bouldering world cups? Eventually slowly depends on how

    852

    01:30:32,080 --> 01:30:42,160

    funding will go for the team and you know, whoever gets better in the team. Because we ideally,

    853

    01:30:42,160 --> 01:30:48,400

    we want to send each and every one of our athletes so that everyone gets the same experience that I

    854

    01:30:48,400 --> 01:30:56,240

    had. And you know, because I mean, we only like, we only have our local comps. And you know, we

    855

    01:30:56,240 --> 01:31:02,240

    don't have other setters from other countries or you know, other gyms, we only have the one gym and

    856

    01:31:02,240 --> 01:31:08,000

    we only have the one's head setter. So then, you know, we don't have that much exposure. So a lot

    857

    01:31:08,000 --> 01:31:17,840

    of them are going to be competing in the world cups. And then for me personally, I would like to

    858

    01:31:17,840 --> 01:31:24,720

    go do a full circuit of bouldering world cup and then maybe eventually add in league.

    859

    01:31:24,720 --> 01:31:34,800

    Eventually, we'll see, we'll see how that goes. But as for now, it's going to be periodically.

    860

    01:31:35,760 --> 01:31:43,040

    I know some of us will be going not to Prague, because we have a local comp happening back home

    861

    01:31:43,040 --> 01:31:52,000

    in September, which I'll be attending. But a lot of a handful of us will be going to World Cup Seoul

    862

    01:31:52,000 --> 01:32:00,800

    and Korea. So yeah, I mean, I guess expect me to be there. But I mean, they don't air the

    863

    01:32:01,760 --> 01:32:08,160

    qualification round, so you won't really see me. I'll probably be posting if I, you know,

    864

    01:32:09,280 --> 01:32:14,240

    while I'm there. And if I'm not competing, then I'm going to be there to support the team,

    865

    01:32:14,240 --> 01:32:18,320

    because that's part of my travel route right now.

    866

    01:32:18,320 --> 01:32:22,160

    Okay. So there's multiple people from Guam going to Seoul.

    867

    01:32:22,160 --> 01:32:30,800

    Yeah, I think so Vicky, the female on our team is for sure. She will most likely do both boulder

    868

    01:32:30,800 --> 01:32:42,480

    and lead. And then we're looking at potentially myself and two other guys, maybe three, because

    869

    01:32:42,480 --> 01:32:52,400

    we have eight allotted slots. Oh, wow. Yeah, eight. Well, it's two for each category. So two for

    870

    01:32:52,400 --> 01:33:00,000

    bouldering, two for lead, but then it's male female. So then four, four. And then if you have

    871

    01:33:00,800 --> 01:33:09,520

    one person doing both, that takes two spots. So max eight, minimum four, I guess, if you have,

    872

    01:33:09,520 --> 01:33:15,840

    am I doing, I don't know if I'm doing that, but yeah. So, because there's another guy on our team,

    873

    01:33:15,840 --> 01:33:23,920

    his name's Don, and he's pretty strong. And then we have another guy who's gotten strong at lead.

    874

    01:33:23,920 --> 01:33:29,680

    We don't have a lead wall, but he's got the endurance for it. So we're literally training

    875

    01:33:29,680 --> 01:33:37,680

    from nothing and trying to build some, you know, because it's hard to build tall walls in Guam.

    876

    01:33:37,680 --> 01:33:47,120

    Because we have a height restriction for buildings because we have high seismic zone earthquakes

    877

    01:33:47,120 --> 01:33:54,240

    in Guam. And, you know, and that's the only building type that you can build taller than 30 feet

    878

    01:33:54,800 --> 01:34:03,520

    is a hotel. Oh, yeah. And I mean, we can try and do a climbing hotel. But that'd be interesting to do.

    879

    01:34:03,520 --> 01:34:11,840

    There's been suggestions of digging into the ground and like digging down maybe 10 feet and then doing

    880

    01:34:11,840 --> 01:34:19,600

    a 40 foot tall building, but it's at 30 in terms of, I mean, I think that's what they did. I think

    881

    01:34:19,600 --> 01:34:24,880

    that's what Enrico said. That's one of the gyms in Japan did that because they also have the same

    882

    01:34:24,880 --> 01:34:30,320

    height. They have the same height restriction. Oh yeah. Yeah. Because they don't have any lead walls.

    883

    01:34:30,320 --> 01:34:36,880

    No, a lot of them are boulder. But I mean, like you can still train lead on boulder. So you just

    884

    01:34:36,880 --> 01:34:43,120

    have to make sure you learn how to clip. Yeah. Yeah. And or and train. Oh, well actually, yeah.

    885

    01:34:43,120 --> 01:34:50,720

    And train for your head game for the height. Yeah. And just like the one shot. Yeah. And so

    886

    01:34:51,680 --> 01:34:56,960

    a lot, there's a couple of people on the team that have been training on the outdoor boulders

    887

    01:34:56,960 --> 01:35:02,720

    with the sketchy bolts, but they're doing it on top rope, but learning to clip. And you know,

    888

    01:35:03,360 --> 01:35:09,280

    they're clipping at the same time and you know, gaining that endurance and head game,

    889

    01:35:09,280 --> 01:35:14,240

    even though they're on top rope, but moth leading. So I mean, that's how I learned how to lead

    890

    01:35:14,240 --> 01:35:23,440

    actually basically. It's the same. Yeah. I mean, you work with what you have. Yeah. Okay. Well,

    891

    01:35:23,440 --> 01:35:29,040

    well, good luck in Seoul. Yeah. Thank you. It's cool to see. Okay, I think that's all the questions

    892

    01:35:29,040 --> 01:35:37,600

    I had. Any final thoughts or final statements? I mean, going back to what I said previously,

    893

    01:35:37,600 --> 01:35:43,680

    I guess to reflect back on a conversation we had and if you know, if you feel like you've started

    894

    01:35:43,680 --> 01:35:51,040

    too late and it's never, I mean, ideally you want to start early, but it's never too late to try

    895

    01:35:51,040 --> 01:35:58,880

    and become something bigger and be part of a bigger picture. And if something feels like,

    896

    01:36:00,320 --> 01:36:08,320

    like if something feels like it is impossible to make it feel possible is to see the final outcome,

    897

    01:36:09,120 --> 01:36:13,520

    to visualize the final outcome far into the future and be like, okay, this is why.

    898

    01:36:13,520 --> 01:36:20,160

    And I mean, if you have high passions for climbing or in anything in general, and you want to make

    899

    01:36:20,160 --> 01:36:29,040

    that thing bigger or like build a community for it and establish something, then hey, we can go for

    900

    01:36:29,040 --> 01:36:37,680

    it. You know, it's like, if you want it so that much, then do whatever it takes. Yeah. So I guess

    901

    01:36:37,680 --> 01:36:45,200

    that's one that, yeah, that's my final statement, I guess. Okay. No, it's good. Good. Anything you

    902

    01:36:45,200 --> 01:36:51,600

    want to shout out or let people know where they can find you? You can find me, I mean, the only

    903

    01:36:51,600 --> 01:36:59,120

    socials I have is Instagram. Okay. And I'll link that. Yeah. It is A-G-B-O-I, which is,

    904

    01:36:59,120 --> 01:37:05,600

    it's just A-G-Boy. A-G is my initial, my first name initials and then boy. It is, it's just,

    905

    01:37:05,600 --> 01:37:12,560

    and I mean, backstory to that is it was my alias growing up as a break dancer and I stuck with it.

    906

    01:37:12,560 --> 01:37:19,040

    So that's why. Wait, A-G-Boy is not your initials? No, A-G is my initials. Boy is just other. How is

    907

    01:37:19,040 --> 01:37:28,560

    that your initials? Oh, my full name is Alan Gregory. What do you mean? Yeah. So my full name is

    908

    01:37:28,560 --> 01:37:35,680

    Alan Gregory. Your first name? Yeah. Like legally, like my legal name is Alan Gregory. God damn,

    909

    01:37:35,680 --> 01:37:41,120

    you never told me that. No one knows that. Now the world knows. Oh, now the climbing community

    910

    01:37:41,120 --> 01:37:46,880

    knows that. Yeah. I mean, I don't really say much on it. A lot of people always wonder like,

    911

    01:37:46,880 --> 01:37:52,000

    where did the G come from? Yeah. I was like, oh, it's my second name. Like my legal name is

    912

    01:37:52,000 --> 01:37:59,520

    Alan Gregory. Okay. Gotcha. But you can just call me. And like, I mean, like to back on the,

    913

    01:37:59,520 --> 01:38:05,600

    my Instagram name, it's just everyone back from high school, they don't know me as Alan.

    914

    01:38:05,600 --> 01:38:10,880

    They only know me as A-G-Boy. Okay. Yeah. I mean, that's me doing that. I mean, that's because

    915

    01:38:10,880 --> 01:38:16,560

    everyone you meet from dancing and that was my alias in dancing. Oh, alias. Gotcha.

    916

    01:38:16,560 --> 01:38:22,720

    Yeah. So you can find me on at A-G-Boy on Instagram. Awesome. Okay. Well, thank you for

    917

    01:38:22,720 --> 01:38:29,360

    joining me today. This was fun and best luck to you in Seoul. Thank you. Thank you so much for making

    918

    01:38:29,360 --> 01:38:34,320

    it to the end of the podcast. Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed. Otherwise, you are

    919

    01:38:34,320 --> 01:38:40,320

    a super fake climber. If you're listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you rated

    920

    01:38:40,320 --> 01:38:46,480

    five stars and you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked in

    921

    01:38:46,480 --> 01:39:14,480

    the description. Thanks again for listening.

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26: Olga Niemiec, IFSC Olympic Routesetter

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24: Madison Richardon, Canadian Boulderer